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Thread: Side door sills How do they install

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    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Side door sills How do they install

    Hi

    I noticed there is a change in the manual from the old door sills to new aluminum ones. Does someone have a picture of how they install. There is nothing in the manual. Here is a picture of the piece._DSC0118.jpg

    Thank You TomH33

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    Kind of disappointing no one has been able to answer this. I went with the Innovative Rodding sills. They do a good job holding the carpet down and seem to stay put, even without bolting them.

    Carpet-35.jpgCarpet-36.jpgCarpet-38.jpgSeq-17h1.jpgSeq-17k1.jpg

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    My somewhat older kit (#894) did not come with doorsills, so I couldn't respond to this question. I will probably go with the same ones you did, but only after I receive the parts I have on backorder from IRS.
    Keith

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    The sills have always been aluminum to my knowledge. You can rivet or screw them in place. I use the same S/S screws that hold the body in place to hold the sills. See post 127. Not a great photo but you can see the sill is engine turned.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...allace18/page4

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    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Hi
    Thanks for the door sill advice, I was not sure if they went to the inside or outside.

    I have a box of aluminum pieces that I not sure what to do with. Some are in the manual with vague instructions and others I have no Idea.

    Second is the metal on pages 426 & 427. I have the pieces for the striker covers but, “position the striker cover, silicone and rivet”, is vague to me and the picture doesn’t even look like the dash side of the frame where the striker is. On page 427 I guess you align the aluminum piece to the frame edged and on the top. Also what weather stripping no pics and I have 4 kinds). Am I to assume that these pieces will seal against the body in this position.

    I have not really had many problems except for the wiring harness(fine after changing to a Painless universal harness) but finishing is not my strong suit. I am trying to get ready to mount the body and don’t want to forget all these aluminum pieces.

    A little more detail and current picks would be nice. I am still trying to figure out how to mark and cut the bottom hole for the door hinges, not in my manual. I have also attached a picture of some aluminum parts I do not know to do with. I have had great luck getting help from the forum until I hit body work. Now replies are hard to come by. Please help.

    Tom Hunter

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    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    I think people tend to post when they're happy or feel good about something they've accomplished. Or they post when they need help. No one feels good about doing bodywork (be honest), and I'd guess the majority of us need help with bodywork - or just pay someone else to do it - which is why questions about bodywork go unanswered or there's not a lot of informative posts about it.

    In my opinion the mechanical work is where most of us succeed, where we've had the most experience, or the most knowledge - it's a more objective skill. And it shows in the final product that these cars/kits get put together pretty good. Most of us don't have much experience with bodywork, and as such aren't very good at it - it' takes a special touch and eye, a more subjective skill. And unfortunately it shows in the final product that these cars are put together well, but often fall short on bodywork quality.
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

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    Agree with Mike. The critical thing I learned is that there is perhaps an accepted technique or design the kit designers anticipated us putting the cars together. However, inherent weaknesses structurally may not always be apparent and that takes an experienced eye to notice and to compensate for. I would have spent the thousands of dollars to prep and have my car painted only to have missed a number of structural weaknesses that fixing have assured me a much more enjoyable time with the finished car. As an example, the trunk latch had a hard time catching and releasing because the rear valence it mounted to was too flimsy. Some of us brace the latch, my experienced guys built a false compartment that supports the entire rear valence evenly. The door tops were weak where panel edges were joined and the thickness of the material along the top where the slots for windows would go was inconsistent. This isn't poor design its just **** that happens. Experienced guys like Wallace18, Tim Whitteaker, or Dan Ruth look at it and say, you got to fix that. Heck I wouldn't have spent the money until the need was explained. Also the extra parts that it isn't clear where they went are sometimes easily identifiable by experienced builders but impossible to determine by the one time or first time builder. Sequencing is also a big deal. I'd like to go back and LS my car but I did not make the right decisions at the start and to do so now will require major work to get to the gas tank. All these details are overwhelming compared to the simple task of installing a drive train and wiring. Just an opinion.

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Tom. I just looked at the pages you refer to and I feel your pain. I'm sorry I'm not much help as I'm still waiting for my kit. I'm hoping that the build school will help with this kind of stuff. For the door hinges, I've seen some youtube videos from more than one person on this topic. Search for "33 hot rod door hinges" on youtube and you should find them. Hopefully they help.
    Good luck, Steve

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    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Your comments are very true, but I believe a little better instructions would save a lot of questions and time. I know we all have week spots, but with current and better instructions first timers could figure out what to do. I have no problem paying someone to do what I don't know. The problem lies in taking a box of aluminum parts and a limited manual to a Body shop or mechanic and paying them to figure this out. Where do they start because they have less knowledge than I do.

    I really think this isn't rocket science, with a little input from you that have installed these pieces I know it is doable. Please look at the pics and tell me where they go and and how you figured their position to the body and weatherstripping. That is the help I am looking for. Others have done this and I think I can too.

    Thanks TomH33_DSC0119.jpg

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    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomH33 View Post
    Your comments are very true, but I believe a little better instructions would save a lot of questions and time. I know we all have week spots, but with current and better instructions first timers could figure out what to do. I have no problem paying someone to do what I don't know. The problem lies in taking a box of aluminum parts and a limited manual to a Body shop or mechanic and paying them to figure this out. Where do they start because they have less knowledge than I do.

    I really think this isn't rocket science, with a little input from you that have installed these pieces I know it is doable. Please look at the pics and tell me where they go and and how you figured their position to the body and weatherstripping. That is the help I am looking for. Others have done this and I think I can too.

    Thanks TomH33_DSC0119.jpg
    Tom,

    I know where three of them go.

    The two on the left go into the back of the cockpit over the floor pans and under the door hinges. I don't have a picture of them but have seen that is where they go. I will see if I can find a picture of them. (edit) Ok, I found a photo in the manual where the two on the left go. Look at page 312 of the manual and you will see where they go. They are right hand side of the photo and have kind of a red coloring of the panels.

    The one on the upper right goes on the sheet metal of the trunk. If you have a car with a three link you may not have the hole that this covers.

    Last edited by TDSapp; 09-28-2018 at 01:03 PM.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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    Just a guess, the 4 slotted L brackets may go over the seat belt brackets to cover up the open slots on either side of the floor bracket.

    Update:
    Well maybe not. I just tried them and the brackets will only fit on the inner seatbelt brackets.

    Update #2...
    I was in Wareham again and stopped at FFR. The slotted L brackets do go over the floor mounted seatbelt brackets to cover up the openings on both sides of the brackets.
    Last edited by JimLev; 10-06-2018 at 06:17 AM. Reason: Added more info
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  15. #12
    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Tom,

    I know where three of them go.

    The two on the left go into the back of the cockpit over the floor pans and under the door hinges. I don't have a picture of them but have seen that is where they go. I will see if I can find a picture of them. (edit) Ok, I found a photo in the manual where the two on the left go. Look at page 312 of the manual and you will see where they go. They are right hand side of the photo and have kind of a red coloring of the panels.

    The one on the upper right goes on the sheet metal of the trunk. If you have a car with a three link you may not have the hole that this covers.

    I don't see the sheet metal that is on pg 427, but you may not have installed yet. How are you going to position those metal plates and which weather striplng do I use. Thanks I marked the pieces you show but I am not sure where to position the metal plates so that the weather striping seals against the body as stated in the manual pg 427.

    Pictures are great a few more and I'll have this figured out.

  16. #13
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomH33 View Post
    I don't see the sheet metal that is on pg 427, but you may not have installed yet. How are you going to position those metal plates and which weather striplng do I use. Thanks I marked the pieces you show but I am not sure where to position the metal plates so that the weather striping seals against the body as stated in the manual pg 427.

    Pictures are great a few more and I'll have this figured out.

    I have not gotten that far and was wondering the same thing myself. My manual, version 2o, has it on page 430 though. Once you said inside and weatherstripping I knew what you were talking about.
    Tim Sapp
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    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  17. #14
    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I have not gotten that far and was wondering the same thing myself. My manual, version 2o, has it on page 430 though. Once you said inside and weatherstripping I knew what you were talking about.

    Hi

    Fuel tank side cover pg 427 in my manual

    I stuck the body on and slid one of the metal pieces on to the railing as show in the manual. It appears that the piece should seal against the body and it does somewhat. If you put weather stripping on the piece (what type I do not know) and push it against the body then I have less than a 1/4” to fasten the metal to the frame. If I install as per manual there is a1/2” gap between the body and the weather stripping. I am not sure what importance these pieces actually have. It looks like you will have to position and mark where to mount the pieces with the body on and mount them with the body off. This is the only way I can see to seal them against the body. I not sure what others have done. No one else has seem to have this problem.

    Let me know what you think.

    TomH33

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomH33 View Post
    Hi

    Fuel tank side cover pg 427 in my manual

    I stuck the body on and slid one of the metal pieces on to the railing as show in the manual. It appears that the piece should seal against the body and it does somewhat. If you put weather stripping on the piece (what type I do not know) and push it against the body then I have less than a 1/4” to fasten the metal to the frame. If I install as per manual there is a1/2” gap between the body and the weather stripping. I am not sure what importance these pieces actually have. It looks like you will have to position and mark where to mount the pieces with the body on and mount them with the body off. This is the only way I can see to seal them against the body. I not sure what others have done. No one else has seem to have this problem.

    Let me know what you think.

    TomH33
    Hey Tom, would you have a picture of your installation you can share?

  19. #16
    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    Hey Tom, would you have a picture of your installation you can share?
    Hi

    I have not permanently attach the sheetmetal. I am still investigating how it fits. I took a couple of pictures of the area and when you put in the sheet metal in there will alway be some gap between the sheet metal and the body. I am not sure how important this sealing is. There is a inside fender to keep water from throwing up into the area. I guess I am building a mountain from a mole hill but I never know how important these things are.

    What I will do next is position the the sheet metal as close to the body as I can and mark it’s position. Then when I remove the body I will fasten the sheet metal permanently and make a guess at the weather stripping. That is the best I can do. Hope this helps._DSC0122.jpg_DSC0124.jpg

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  21. #17
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    I attached the rear fender seal plates after installing the body, I am not sure that you will be able to get the body back on if you install them on the frame before the body is on. I pressed the weather stripping along the outside edge and pushed it up against the body as much as possible and clamped then riveted in place. If I ever want to pull the body off I will need to drill out the rivets, but it was the only way to get a legitimate seal against the body.

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