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Thread: #30 drill bits

  1. #1
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    #30 drill bits

    I'm sure somebody has already done the research for this. Where's the cheapest place to buy #30 drill bits in bulk? I'm guessing Amazon, but maybe there's somewhere else that has them cheaper.

  2. #2
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Amazon is not a bad place to buy drill bits from but be a knowledgeable purchaser. I usually get my cutting tools from MSC as I can get good quality tools at reasonable prices. Cutting tools are a good example of "you get what you pay for". The cheap Chinese cutting tools are attractively priced but I've never found them to last like the quality stuff. Also, the drill point makes a difference. For general purpose use in mild steel and aluminum (95% of my fabrication use) I like the 118-degree point. I save the 135-deg points for harder metals and then I will use cobalt or carbide drills for this material. TiN coatings may improve life in abrasive materials but I'm not convinced they are worth the extra $$ for what I do.

  3. #3
    slpro1207's Avatar
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    I get mine at Aircraft Spruce. Parts and tools made for use on aircraft. Great quality. Made in USA. Bits seem to last longer.
    MK4 delivered 2/24/2017. Complete kit #9023,IRS, Power Steering, Leather, heater, 17" wheels, sway bar ft & rr, tremec 600 and Gordon Levy Racing SBF 427. First start and go kart 8/19/2017. Graduated 1/15/2018
    MK4 #9230 complete kit delivered 1/27/2018. IRS, PS, leather, Tremic 600, SBF 427. Graduation 10/15/2018
    MK3 #5253 donor bought unfinished. SBF 331, T5 Trans.

  4. #4
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    I bought these double-headed bits from Amazon. They aren't high quality, but fine for drilling the aluminum panels and steel tubing. When one side wears out, flip it over and keep going, when that side wears out, toss it and grab a new one. You basically get 24 bits for about $0.68 each.


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  5. #5
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    I used these. Worked great. Split point so it reduces walking.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0054...op_mb_pd_title
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  6. #6
    Papa's Avatar
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    I also used these:

    https://www.amazon.com/Air-Capital-D...ing+depth+stop

    They help a lot to prevent breaking a bit and keep the drill chuck from gouging the metal you are drilling into.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

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  7. #7
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    These seem to be pretty good quality. Cobalt Dewalt

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/DeWalt-DD43...QAAOSwzqFY-SdQ
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

  8. #8
    Boydster's Avatar
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    I bought mine from Aircraft Spruce too. Only broke 1 and wore out 1 in all the drilling on the car, and I'm almost done.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  9. #9
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    Use cutting oil and they last longer ��

  10. #10
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    Aircraft spruce here. I also use a Drill Dr. To keep them sharp.
    JR
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

  11. #11
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    Definitely use cutting oil on the steel holes, but not needed for Aluminum.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

  12. #12
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Also used #30 and #10 (.1935 for 3/16 rivets) from Aircraft Spruce. Decent quality and price. Bought 12 #30's and 3 #10's for #8674, and had enough left to do the Gen 3 Coupe drilling. Only broke a couple. Mainly they just eventually get dull and I don't have a sharpener. Need to look into that sometime. The main reason they break, in my experience, is drilling into or near welds. Often snaps 'em right off. Something to watch for when you're laying out your rivet locations.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  13. #13
    Senior Member mlewis's Avatar
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    ditto on Aircraft Spruce.
    Mk4 #9165, Base Kit with lots of options, Delivery on 08/17/2017, Coyote, TKO600, 2015 IRS, 18" Halibrands, 12.99" Wilwoods

  14. #14
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Kept it simple. 1/8" and 3/16" bits from Canadian Tire. Stuff comes on sale all the time at 50-75% off and seemed to work OK. Still together nice and tight and looking pretty after 41,000 kilometers.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

  15. #15
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    I did an order from some small guy in Colorado when I got my Clecos. I meant to order 10 bits, but just ordered 1 by mistake. I got WAY over half way through my build with that one bit. It got to the point that I was on a mission to do it with one bit. I drilled through a panel and hit the round 4" tube and broke it. I went through about 20 bits for the 2nd half from other places.

    I found it - http://www.cokid.com/

  16. #16

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    Buying the cheapest bit in bulk is false economy.
    You will waste time on every hole which will take longer due to poor cutting action of inferior bits.
    See above where some did a whole car with just 2 or 3 quality bits.
    I kept a tuna can with some oil in it and dip bit in it to improve the cutting and bit life.
    1/8" bit is .125"
    #30 is .1285" and is the recommended size for nominal 1/8" rivets.
    Using a 1/8" bit can work in a pinch but it will cause the aluminum rivet to be difficult to install in the hole. (multiply that frustration times the number of holes)
    Breeze has them and you can order any quantity though we recommend buying only 3 - 4 per car:
    https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/drill-bit-30-usa/
    If all you need is drill bits it is hard to compete with Amazon but of the above the Dewalt 12-pack made it Germany looks like a good deal (if they are really made in Germany) and you can pay the extra 8 bits forward to your next roadster friend.
    www.breezeautomotive.com 2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.

  17. #17
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    I'm going to try this paste: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OAF8CI...v_ov_lig_dp_it

    I believe that a paste will stay on longer and even if it heats up will run into the cutting zone to cool and lubricate.

    Anyone have any experience with this product?

  18. #18
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I don't know what you guys are doing, but I'm on rivet hole number 247,863 on 1/8" drill bit three. (Yes, 3).
    Bit 1 & 2 broke when I wasn't paying attention, broke through, and smacked the other side of the frame tube.

    I'm using 1/8" and 3/16, generic/hardware store, black oxide bits, a variable speed DeWalt cordless drill motor, with no cutting oil/fluid/paste.
    (We're only drilling through .200" of material here... with a sharp bit there isn't time for it to get hot)

    It's all about speed and feed guys!
    - Start out slow to get the point to cut, then increase speed & pressure to where you're getting a good chip coming off - hold that thought/setting.
    - After hole #5895 you'll get a feel where the bit is about to break through - ease off the pressure, but not the speed - the bit will finish the hole without grabbing/pulling.
    - Once broken through, give the drill a little "wobble" to egg out the hole a bit - this will give you the .0035 thousanths of a #30 (no need for special/numeric bits)

    After I've drilled the holes in a panel, I'll take a 45deg countersink and by hand give it a twirl in the hole(s) to break the burr. Done.

    (Confession: I do have a "Drill Doctor". It has paid for itself in the 2 years I've had it. If you touch a drill to something and it's not cutting immediately it is DULL. All you are doing is making heat. Less than 2 minutes with the Doctor and I've got a brand new, split point drill bit.)
    Last edited by Fixit; 09-19-2018 at 04:57 PM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  19. #19
    Senior Member Jetfuel's Avatar
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    Yardstore..
    https://www.yardstore.com/drilling-a...-threaded-bits
    The stubby last forever and with several length adapters they fit the tightest places

  20. #20
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    I am using black oxide 1/8" & 3/16" bits with cutting oil, very low replacement rate. When I realized that the cleco's do a good job of holding the pieces together, but they do a lousy job of keeping things lined up, i started inserting a rivet (inserted not installed) it keep things lined up and then installing the rivets when ready went very well.

  21. #21
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhuff View Post
    When I realized that the cleco's do a good job of holding the pieces together, but they do a lousy job of keeping things lined up...
    I'm a little surprised to hear that. My experience is just the opposite. I find they wedge into the hole and keep the piece perfectly centered on the holes. I also use a lot of them. So maybe that helps. Keep in mind these came from the aviation industry where perfect alignment is essential.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  22. #22
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    A black oxide #30 with an occasional pass on the Drill Doctor will cut clean and fast and last almost indefinitely.

    Jeff

  23. #23
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    You need more than 2 or 3 drill bits, you don't know how to use a drill.

  24. #24
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    You need more than 2 or 3 drill bits, you don't know how to use a drill.
    lol true...
    But don’t forget that there are people out here starting these builds that have limited or maybe even no experience with things like that and need our help or guidance. I started drilling things 50 years ago... some others maybe 2 weeks ago...

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

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    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  25. #25

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    We use 135 degree split point cobalt drills. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/78546652 Seem expensive, however, we typically only use one or two per build. We use screw machine length (sometimes called stub length). The shorter length makes it easier to apply only axial pressure and not to apply any bending to the drill (the reason they break). Hope this helps.

    Chris
    Chris

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