Is anyone running a big block Chevy in a 33 Hot Rod
I have a 496 cu in motor I have been putting together for a 73 Corvette.
I decided to sell the Corvette and build another FFR 33 Hot Rod.
Has anyone installed a big block Chevrolet motor into a 33 Hot Rod?
If so, what modifications, if any, were necessary.
I think it depends on if you are looking at Motor only or motor with a blower. The guys at SKJ did one with a big block and a blower. They had to extend the frame by 4" to be able to clear the big Gilmer drive gears. If you were doing just a big block and a flush mount crank pulley then I don't think there is an issue.
BTW, I forgot to mention that the one thing that might hang you up on the big block is the exhaust. If you use the factory exhaust then you will really be limiting your motor. The frame only has room to run 2.5" exhaust. You can run larger if you are willing to go with some oval exhaust where it goes through the frame.
Or you can do like SKJ did on theirs, and by stretching the front of the frame 4" they were able to put on a set of Zoomies that look awesome.
While I haven't done it (not yet anyway) I planned all along for BBC power in my FFR 33 HR. The basic dims of length and width (width at the valve covers) put the BBC ~4" longer and 6.5" wider. The length of the SBC from the crank hub to the end of the water pump shaft is ~26.5" and the BBC is ~30.5". Based on these dims and the dims of my SBC installed in my hot rod I believe there is room enough to install the BBC and that is a pre-planned upgrade for my car. Headers are easy if you don't care to run a hood. If you do want the full fender and hood look I suggest you find a mild small block and forget about installing any heavy breathing engine as there simply is not nearly enough room for an adequately sized exhaust in the HR.
Of course the dims depend on how the engines are equipped and the source and I've seen the dims vary by several inches so I picked one that gave me a larger difference between the two engines. Do your own research before committing. If you are handy with welding and fabricating you can make about any engine fit.
If you don't mind some fabrication time and can weld, the BBC is reasonably achievable. Without a gilmer or even a 50mm on a Paxton you still need to set it against the firewall and run a flush pulley on the crank which drives all the decisions on water pump and A/C. A couple builds modified the frame at the triangle to get 3" exhaust pipe through. You will need to fabricate your own headers for sure. Maybe start with a raw shorty set and modify from there. My biggest concern would be where the electric steering can go. In my build I left a place for it and was very happy I did. You simply cannot react fast enough without it unless your arms are like Popeye's or you only intend to go straight. Since its a BBC then a cowl induction hood would go well with the build. I set aside my FFR hood and pie cut a cheap speedway hood to jack up the middle and get the cowl width. You will need a tall cowl probably, like 3" rise at the rear. This gives the car more of a raked look also. Get your tranny mount as far back as possible to put some weight on the rear. have fun!
I have no plans to run a blower, just an Edelbrock Performer Air Gap.
I already have a set of Sanderson short tube headers with 1 7/8" primary tubes.
Even though my Corvette came with the optional big block it is a very tight fit and I'm running Crower stainless roller rockers that just squeeze under the stock height valve covers.
Apologies for resurrecting an ancient thread…but then again why not?
I’ve had an 88mm turbocharged BBC installed in my 35 FFR pickup for two years now…legally plated for around 16 months of that.
You just need to use a small cap distributor (or go coil on plug), set the engine as far back as practical and start the torque party. ��
I chose everything aluminum I could reasonably purchase at my pay grade to build my big block, plus a Powerglide in an attempt to mitigate any extra front end weight. Full disclosure…my fully dressed BBC weighed 530 Lbs without the transmission.
It drives and runs perfectly…even at -21C on snow, so there’s nothing to worry about in regards to drivability.
OK Pat, let's see some BBC porn shots. Everybody loves a big block.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
BBC in a hot rod, that always looks cool. Any idea of the weight front & rear. Eventually I'll stop racing my car and if I keep it for a street machine I might just put a BBC in place of the SBC race motor. Yours may give me an idea of how much extra weight on the front I'd be looking at.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
No idea F-R currently NAZ but it doesn’t get loose in the back too easily so I’m guessing closer to 50/50 than not. Close to icy roads season here (actually long overdue…) but if I get a chance I’ll take it to a local scale and update this thread.
By the way, if you didn’t guess already, I’m running the short water pump FEAD with this installation.
Cheers
Pat
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