I'm mounting the windshield to my FIA build but I can not see how you get you hands and/or tools under the dash and along side of the fuse box to install the bolts, HELP!!!
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I'm mounting the windshield to my FIA build but I can not see how you get you hands and/or tools under the dash and along side of the fuse box to install the bolts, HELP!!!
I had to temporarily drop the fuse box out of the way to get in to the bolts. I could not do it without another set of hands holding the windshield in place.
MK4 delivered 2/24/2017. Complete kit #9023,IRS, Power Steering, Leather, heater, 17" wheels, sway bar ft & rr, tremec 600 and Gordon Levy Racing SBF 427. First start and go kart 8/19/2017. Graduated 1/15/2018
MK4 #9230 complete kit delivered 1/27/2018. IRS, PS, leather, Tremic 600, SBF 427. Graduation 10/15/2018
MK3 #5253 donor bought unfinished. SBF 331, T5 Trans.
I brought my hand up behind the dash and over the top of the 2" frame & fuse box. From there I was able to push the bolt through the mounting hole & thread it into the windshield post (I drilled the windshield post holes 27/64” diameter and tap each to accept the 1/2”-13 bolt).
I've got some fairly detailed information in my build log starting at post #423. https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...ter-build.html
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
You have to say just the right words. Most of them have four letters.
Move the fuse box.
If you have multiple spacers you can use spray glue, like you use for the carpet, to hold them together. Remember, ZERO tension on those arms.
I did it with the dash off. Can’t imagine the PIA with it on.
I bought the Windshield quick release mount from Lodestone Billetworks. I think that Mike Forte makes one, too. It makes removing and installing the windshield (after initial installation) a 10 minute job. Initial installation was much simpler than it was with the traditional setup.
Bill
FFR #8275, non-donor build.
427W, carbureted, TKO600, 3 link.
Body work and paint by Metal Morphous.
Dropped the fuse box and recruited a friend of my son with small hands. Was still a two man job.
“Privateer”
289 USRRC Chassis #9188 p/u 9/11/2017 Go kart 3/18/2018, road legal 6/16/2018
Ford full roller 306 built by my son and me Holley Sniper EFI
TKO600 2015 IRS 3:55. 17” FFR Hallibrand replicas, Power steering
FFR Vintage instruments, Wipers and Heat/defrost
Lots of parts and advice from Mike Forte & Mark Reynolds (Breeze Automotive)
I use a long set of hemostats to hold the nut till I get it started, then wrench and ratchet…..OH! and the four letter words mentioned by another...da bat
One more suggestion. Lose the lock nuts. Get some regular nuts that fit and use a little blue loctite. Makes tightening things down in an awkward spot much easier.
Norm
I really liked the drill and tap technique used phileas but that required the correct drill bit and tap. As Norm says I use plain nuts so I can hand tighten and only use a wrench for the last turn or two. When all is finalized, run another plain nut on there to act as a jam nut.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
This toolmakes life a lot easier in places a wrench is hard to use.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12v-ma...kit-63538.htmlimage_27708.jpg