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Installing a mr2 short shifter in my 818c
A note of warning: plan it out before you start.
Cable size
Bore size of the Ron end bearing
Location of the shifter
Routing of the cables
(2 8ft push-pull cables)
(Bore size I need is .4)
(Routed the cables above the fuel cell)
The rod end i need is not available. This means I
will need to fab the shifter end. I had the cables
threads extended as my shifter was not balanced
and the adjustments could not be made.
This has been an experience.
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Senior Member
Dkelly,
Post a pictures, so others can use your ideas.
Bob
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Senior Member
I think I ran into the same issue as you, I'm guessing your ".4 bore" is the 10mm shaft on the MR2 shifter that actuates left-right motion? I just bought a 10mm rod end on ebay and made some threaded adapters from home depot steel rods. I did have to buy a few taps; rod and was M10x1.25, cables were 1/4-28.
IMAG1299.jpgIMAG1257.jpgIMAG1298.jpg
To retain the 10mm rod end on the shaft, I drilled a 1/4" hole through the shaft and slightly extended it by putting in a 1/4" slotted spring pin with a hole drilled through it. I then put a clip through the hole so the rod end couldn't slide off the shaft. Seems to work fine.
IMAG1379.jpg
The cables are the very last step after the shifter and trans linkage are finished and installed. I used the cables that came from FFR to mock up placement/routing and just had a big loop in the back before they connected to the trans linkage. I subtracted the loop from the cables to get the new custom lengths. Got the cables from custom control cables.
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Senior Member
On the end of my cables I used 3/8" clevis connectors. Both drilled out to 10mm. on the left right one, I cut off one arm.
shift.jpg
Excuse the improper cotter pin. That all I had at that moment in time.
Bob
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You can also cut off that nub and drill a 1/4" through hole and bolt on a 1/4" rod end.
Good info here:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...42-MR2-Shifter
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