Gimme a brake!

[KenWilkinson]

Working on the e-brakes and hydraulic brakes.

1) e-brake cables are too short to reach the fabricated bracket that you rivet to the cross member. Any ideas? Is there a re-design on this?

2) Can someone show how" by a picture", the lines were routed at the foot box? I'm assuming that they go into the brass connectors, and probably need several bends to get them to the firewall but
I'd like expert advice one how that was done.


3) I have a hydraulic clutch, No instructions provided, are there hard lines for this?

Regards,
Ken

[wallace18]

Ken follow the 33 manual for the brake lines. You are on your own for the clutch lines. All part of the building process. I use a flex line from the master to the slave on my had clutch builds. Speedway sells all that kind of stuff.

[Stillwater35]

On 1, if you're running wilwoods, you need to use the u-shaped black bracket to get just enough more reach. It looks like the gold piece in the lower left of this picture, but is black. https://www.wilwood.com/Images/Hardw...0-9371-med.jpg

On 2, Follow the 33 manual and take a look at the dropbox of pictures from FFR. Also, check out some of the 33 builds. Check out Eric's Youtube at 2:55 https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=9MPuBr8dMZc

On 3 - This is make-work stuff. I went AODE, but i've used these to mock up pipe details before I bend real tubes. https://www.niteize.com/product/Gear-Tie-32.asp
It's like grown-up pipe cleaners!

[rponfick]

I'm running standard FFR rear brakes and was also confused by the e-brake routing shown in the manual. The manual still shows the triangulated bracket you rivet to the frame, but it is not used. My frame (no. 15) has a small bracket, with 2 holes in it, welded to the lower crossmember back where the rear alum bulkhead panel attaches. The cable sheath is long enough to reach this spot, and the cables run bare from there up to the handle.
Hope this helps.
Ralph

[KenWilkinson]

Ah Ralph! I wondered if this was the case. The inside cable extends quite a ways outside of the casing if I do this. Did you connect the ends to the handle in the same location?

[rponfick]

Yes, the inside cable runs naked from the frame bracket up to the handle. Also, check the e-brake handle assembly you have. I got one set with the car, and then in a later shipment I got a shorter toothed part of the assembly.

The handle appears to mount in the same location as shown in the manual. I have hooked mine up and it seems to function.

Ralph

[KenWilkinson]

Yes, the inside cable runs naked from the frame bracket up to the handle. Also, check the e-brake handle assembly you have. I got one set with the car, and then in a later shipment I got a shorter toothed part of the assembly.

The handle appears to mount in the same location as shown in the manual. I have hooked mine up and it seems to function.

Ralph

Can you post a picture of the assembly in place? I've attached a picture of mine just in case you can validate this is correct.

ebrake handle.jpg

[rponfick]

I have not figured out how to post pic. from my Ipad yet, but the toothed part in your photo is what I got initially also from FFR. Later, when I asked for the triangulated bracket that rivets to the frame in the manual photos, I only received a different "toothed" part. It only has one hole forward of the teeth and I think is shorter in overall length. Not sure what difference this makes and if the older part will work also.
Ralph

[FFinisher]

I have not figured out how to post pic. from my Ipad yet, but the toothed part in your photo is what I got initially also from FFR. Later, when I asked for the triangulated bracket that rivets to the frame in the manual photos, I only received a different "toothed" part. It only has one hole forward of the teeth and I think is shorter in overall length. Not sure what difference this makes and if the older part will work also.
Ralph

The triangulated part needs to be used and attached to the frame. With this part you need to use coupe brake cables. you also need to use the shorter "geared" piece. There is also a bracket that attached to the shorter hole on the geared piece that extends down to the frame.


You can use all the other stuff, longer cable and longer "geared' piece, as well as install the cables onto the frame without using the triangulated piece riveted to the frame and it will work.




But you won't be able to put the Bench seat in. If you are using other than a bench seat, or seats not provided by FFR I don't know what clearance is needed.

I would suggest a call to FFR to get it sorted out.


Ken, the parts in that box are the old style e-brake parts.

[nbjeeptj]

IMG_1630.JPG

I put this in this weekend. Any idea if its right? it looked like where the instructions said to put it.

[rponfick]

Jeep, Now, I am really getting confused (which is possible for old people). See my comments above. I didn't get the triangulated bracket with the kit, and when I inquired, I was sent the shorter toothed piece, with no indication beyond that. FFinisher indicates using longer coupe cables and the need to use the triangulated bracket. I used the cables supplied with the kit and they seem to fit the welded bracket on the rear bulkhead. So, we have at least two, or more, ways to hook things up.

Also, what do you mean I will not be able to use the bench seat that I ordered?

I don't think anyone should have to contact FFR to get this sorted out. I think the responsibility lies on FFR, and they need to be contacting us and providing accurate information on the intended assembly process. I realize a kit of this type requires experimentation and flexibility by us on assembly, but sufficient information from the manufacturer is also a responsibility.

Thanks, Ralph

[KenWilkinson]

I found out after a call to FFR, that there is a separate e-brake handle assembly section starting on page 266! I assembled the handle and ratchet but will not install until I have completed the flooring and now the seat install.

Joke
Ask someone if they know what a Ratchet is. When they say what they think, reply no- it's a large mouse ****.

[KenWilkinson]

IMG_1630.JPG

I put this in this weekend. Any idea if its right? it looked like where the instructions said to put it.

if you have long cables that reach, you should be good. If they are short by a lot, then use the boss behind this. The end with black clips goes into the holes of the boss or bracket. The shiny end seems to just sit into the brakes. I followed the instructions to thread or route it.

[FFinisher]

Jeep, Now, I am really getting confused (which is possible for old people). See my comments above. I didn't get the triangulated bracket with the kit, and when I inquired, I was sent the shorter toothed piece, with no indication beyond that. FFinisher indicates using longer coupe cables and the need to use the triangulated bracket. I used the cables supplied with the kit and they seem to fit the welded bracket on the rear bulkhead. So, we have at least two, or more, ways to hook things up.

Also, what do you mean I will not be able to use the bench seat that I ordered?

I don't think anyone should have to contact FFR to get this sorted out. I think the responsibility lies on FFR, and they need to be contacting us and providing accurate information on the intended assembly process. I realize a kit of this type requires experimentation and flexibility by us on assembly, but sufficient information from the manufacturer is also a responsibility.

Thanks, Ralph

You will need to use the new style E-brake to clear the bench seat.


If you don't call FFR your frustration will likely continue. New models require changes. that's part of the fun.

I always thought the best person to get the answers from was the person WITH the answer.

[KenWilkinson]

I called FFR. They seem to think I have the new style. I will hold off for now, many other things to solve.

[KenWilkinson]

Re-opening this thread

1) I'm working on the hard lines for the front brakes now. Both the 33 and 35 manuals seem to lack the appropriate information for routing. That and I seem to be short on the hard lines and where they route.

If I follow the instructions, they'll never get to the location specified.

So I'm thinking get a longer 20" piece (30 inches?) or maybe route along the front differently. Has anyone discovered this and resolved it successfully?

2) There is a silver male and (2) female TEE that is in the kit, the threads don't match anything. What and where does this get used or Not?

[wallace18]

Ken it should follow the 33 manual for the front exactly. The rear you need to use the one t- that has 1 male and 2 female.

[KenWilkinson]

Ken it should follow the 33 manual for the front exactly. The rear you need to use the one t- that has 1 male and 2 female.

Exactly my problem. I am following and not getting a solution. Bought a 12 inch section to replace the 8 inch piece and will try this tomorrow