Wiring Help, Again

[Railroad]

Gen I Coyote, Wiring Harness Mk IV roadster, Rev N page 7.
I was trying to get the behind the dash completed and noticed a couple of notes, I had made in the wiring manual.
I have the tan wire cut for the EFI harness to run the fuel pump. Problem is I see 3 blunt end cuts on the tan wires. I cannot find where it said to cut more than the 1 wire loop, which would leave 2 cut ends.
I can keep digging, but my shovel is getting dull.




Next my gauges, Speedhut Anniversary edition. I have a yellow with red and yellow with black on the wires coming out of a couple of the gauges. Which wire goes to the RF labeled wires and which goes to the gauge lead?
thanks for any help.

[edwardb]

Next my gauges, Speedhut Anniversary edition. I have a yellow with red and yellow with black on the wires coming out of a couple of the gauges. Which wire goes to the RF labeled wires and which goes to the gauge lead?
thanks for any help.

Can't help you with the Gen 1 Coyote questions. My experience started with Gen 2 and it was different in quite a few ways. Won't hazard any guesses... For the gauges, yellow wires with tracers (and connectors) in all cases are the senders for whatever the gauge is doing. The gauges get their +12V power, grounds, and lighting power through the supplied daisy chains. Connect all the gauges together with the daisy chains, and attach the RF gauge power, ground, and gauge lighting to the end of the daisy chains. That's a pretty general response, but hopefully gives you want you need. The only exception is the GPS speedo. It has a red/black wire that is the "Hot Start" for GPS if attached to an always on 12V source. Supposed to make the GPS acquire more quickly after shutdown. I assume it does. I hooked mine up and the GPS is usually active by the time I'm out of the garage. You did get the instructions, right? They should have been in the box with the gauges. If not, you can get them off of Speedhut's website. These gauges are just like their normal offerings, just with the special anniversary marking on the faces.

[Railroad]

Thanks edwardb, I have the lighting part right, it seems. I found something in the threads that helps me with the 2 yellow wires, I think.

[edwardb]

Thanks edwardb, I have the lighting part right, it seems. I found something in the threads that helps me with the 2 yellow wires, I think.

The daisy chains do lighting and power the gauges. Pretty important to understand. The yellow wires go to what is being sensed, e.g. oil pressure, water temp, tach, etc. Your choice is to plug the Speedhut cables directly into the gauges using the installed connectors. Or cut off the connectors, and attach the RF sending wires to the gauges from the dash harness, and then attach the Speedhut wires to the RF sending unit wires under the hood or behind the dash. Either way works.

[FFinisher]

Gen I Coyote, Wiring Harness Mk IV roadster, Rev N page 7.
I was trying to get the behind the dash completed and noticed a couple of notes, I had made in the wiring manual.
I have the tan wire cut for the EFI harness to run the fuel pump. Problem is I see 3 blunt end cuts on the tan wires. I cannot find where it said to cut more than the 1 wire loop, which would leave 2 cut ends.
I can keep digging, but my shovel is getting dull.




Next my gauges, Speedhut Anniversary edition. I have a yellow with red and yellow with black on the wires coming out of a couple of the gauges. Which wire goes to the RF labeled wires and which goes to the gauge lead?
thanks for any help.

Cut into the tan wire that comes out of the relay and goes to the Fuel Pump. Basically you are only using the part of the wire that runs from the relay to the Pump. The Ron Francis relay is not used as the fuel pump relay resides in the Gen 1 Coyote control pack fuse box.

So connect the green fuel pump wire from the control pack to the tan wire that goes to the fuel pump in the rear harness.

[Papa]

For the fuel pump wiring, you can just de-pin the weatherpack harness where the tan fuel pump wire goes from the main dash harness to the rear harness. I pulled the tan fuel pump wire out of the rear harness plug and connected my fuel pump control wire to it. No need to cut the jumper and easily reversible if I ever need to do so.

[edwardb]

Cut into the tan wire that comes out of the relay and goes to the Fuel Pump. Basically you are only using the part of the wire that runs from the relay to the Pump. The Ron Francis relay is not used as the fuel pump relay resides in the Gen 1 Coyote control pack fuse box.

So connect the green fuel pump wire from the control pack to the tan wire that goes to the fuel pump in the rear harness.

For the fuel pump wiring, you can just de-pin the weatherpack harness where the tan fuel pump wire goes from the main dash harness to the rear harness. I pulled the tan fuel pump wire out of the rear harness plug and connected my fuel pump control wire to it. No need to cut the jumper and easily reversible if I ever need to do so.

Just want to point out that if wired this way the inertia switch isn't in the circuit. The fuel pump relay in the RF panel makes the inertia switch functional. The intertia switch is the ground leg for the relay. If tripped, the ground is broken, the relay opens, and the fuel pump wire is open turning off the pump. If you break into the right wire, the relay is getting its power from the Coyote fuel pump wire, and can pull the RF fuse.

[Papa]

Just want to point out that if wired this way the inertia switch isn't in the circuit. The fuel pump relay in the RF panel makes the inertia switch functional. The intertia switch is the ground leg for the relay. If tripped, the ground is broken, the relay opens, and the fuel pump wire is open turning off the pump. If you break into the right wire, the relay is getting its power from the Coyote fuel pump wire, and can pull the RF fuse.

Paul,

I'm a little confused by your comment. The fuel pump ground goes through the inertia switch and my EFI has it's own relay to power the pump. All I've done is supply that power directly to the rear harness (tan wire) that runs to the pump. The ground circuit is completed through the inertia switch the same as it would be for the RF harness provided relay and power to the pump. I've left the ground pin in the connector.

Dave

[edwardb]

Paul,

I'm a little confused by your comment. The fuel pump ground goes through the inertia switch and my EFI has it's own relay to power the pump. All I've done is supply that power directly to the rear harness (tan wire) that runs to the pump. The ground circuit is completed through the inertia switch the same as it would be for the RF harness provided relay and power to the pump. I've left the ground pin in the connector.

Dave

Right. The fuel pump is on chassis ground like the inertia switch. But the ground for the fuel pump relay in the RF harness only comes through the inertia switch. With power to the relay, and ground through the inertia switch, the relay is latched closed and +12V goes to the fuel pump through the brown wire. If the ground is broken, the relay opens, and +12V no longer goes to the fuel pump. That's the standard RF harness operation. For the Coyote, standard practice is the wire at the fuse in the RF harness is clipped. Then the +12V from the external system (e.g. Coyote) is spliced to that wire. As a result, the relay works the same way, just gets the +12V from another source. If you're breaking into the brown fuel pump wire at the rear harness connector, the relay is no longer getting power and the inertia switch doesn't do anything. Simple enough to test. Trip the inertia switch and see if your fuel pump works. I'll bet it does. If it doesn't, and the inertia switch is the reason, then your RF harness is different than any I've ever worked on or I'm not understanding how you're wiring it.

[phileas_fogg]

Depending on the Amp rating, you can move the inertia switch to the +12V feed of the pump itself; that's what I did for my Holley EFI system. Check the model number stamped on the side of the switch. I seem to recall my switch (delivered as part of the Ron Francis harness) was rated at 20A, and since my EFI only provides 10A the switch was more than adequate.

Also, make sure your switch is wired correctly. Mine wasn't; the fix is here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...-question.html.


John

[Papa]

Right. The fuel pump is on chassis ground like the inertia switch. But the ground for the fuel pump relay in the RF harness only comes through the inertia switch. With power to the relay, and ground through the inertia switch, the relay is latched closed and +12V goes to the fuel pump through the brown wire. If the ground is broken, the relay opens, and +12V no longer goes to the fuel pump. That's the standard RF harness operation. For the Coyote, standard practice is the wire at the fuse in the RF harness is clipped. Then the +12V from the external system (e.g. Coyote) is spliced to that wire. As a result, the relay works the same way, just gets the +12V from another source. If you're breaking into the brown fuel pump wire at the rear harness connector, the relay is no longer getting power and the inertia switch doesn't do anything. Simple enough to test. Trip the inertia switch and see if your fuel pump works. I'll bet it does. If it doesn't, and the inertia switch is the reason, then your RF harness is different than any I've ever worked on or I'm not understanding how you're wiring it.

Thanks, Paul. I see what you mean now. Looks like one more wiring project.

Dave