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Thread: Engine Oil Cooling

  1. #1
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    Engine Oil Cooling

    Hello Roadsters, I am having issues with running hot oil in my MKIV 351W. In traffic it is about 240deg. I would like to look into an oil cooler w/remote oil filter. I am hoping someone out there has some experience with running this set up. Note I have a oil cooler installed but it is not connected (just for ascetics).

    Sam,

  2. #2
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    I've run Canton's remote long canister filter and their thermostat. The cooler is a Setrab 915 series but it is a tight fit. Plumbed with AN-12 lines.

    This system worked well with a 427W for a bunch of miles. On the track I'd like more cooler, possibly the 920 or 925 but these are taller than the cowl area and will require modifications and fabrication, this is my plan for the current build. On the street a cooler isn't usually needed, hence the thermostat.

    I'd think that your 240 degree oil temps are high. Is there something else that's pushing the temps? Hard driving, high ambient, problems with the water cooling system?

    I've always found that water temps go up on the street in heavy traffic with low MPH and oil goes up on the track with sustained higher RPM.

    Jim

  3. #3

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    Oil is primarily heated by rpm's. Otherwise, it generally follows water temps fairly closely. If only your oil temp is rising, then I suspoect there's something wrong with the gauge. Is the sensor anywhere near a heat source? Let the gauge get up to the highest levels you see, then hit the pan with a temp gun. The two temps should be fairly close.
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  4. #4
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    If 240 is the max it goes to that really isn't bad especially if using synthetic oil
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  5. #5
    Curmudgeon mikeinatlanta's Avatar
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    Agree with the others. If not on the track there is absolutely no way oil is hot without something wrong. I would also verify an accurate gage first.
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  6. #6

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Steve's Stupid Questions:

    What type of camshaft are you running?
    Flat or Roller Tappet

    What type of rocker arms are you running?
    Standard Production or Roller Rockers

    Where is your oil temperature sensor located?
    Engine Block, Oil Pan or Oil Filter Sandwich Adapter

    What is the material type and finish on your oil pan and valve covers?
    Aluminum vs Steel or Chrome vs Painted

    What kind of oil pump are you using?
    High Volume/High Pressure, High Volume/Standard Pressure, Standard Pressure/High Volume, Standard Pressure/Standard Volume

    What weight and type of oil are you running?
    Conventional, Synthetic Blend or Full Synthetic

    All of these things will have an impact on oil temperature so you need to look at each factor.

    A chrome oil pan along with chrome valve covers will not let the oil cool because the reflective properties of the finish. (The Dreaded Tea Pot Effect)
    A flat tappet camshaft and rockers will increase the oil temperatures over the roller set up. (More Friction = More Heat)
    Running higher than needed oil pressures will also create heat as does running a heavier than needed oil viscosity. (Higher Pressures = Higher Temperatures)


    Since you have the cooler, I'd hook it up because it can't hurt plus it makes the car even better than what it is today.


    Good Luck & Happy Motoring!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-04-2018 at 09:39 AM.

  7. #7
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    One more vote for something else is going on.

    I find oil temp to be completely load related - if you're not currently flogging it hard - as in autocross / track day / climbing continental divide / Pike's Peak - the oil temp shouldn't be more than 10 degrees over water temp.


    Most of us have a hard time getting the oil temp up - because we can't stay hard enough in the throttle long enough (legally in traffic)...

  8. #8
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Sam, you don't mention where your oil temp sensor is located or if it is compatible with your gauge. We can assume the installation is correct but that can also get us in trouble. I'd advise you to first review the installation and compatibility of components.

    Next, confirm your gauge is accurate before making any changes. That means verifying that the gauge and sensor are giving you the correct temperature by using a known good independent temperature measuring device. That might be an IR temperature gun on the oil pan when up to temp and compare the readings. That gets you a quick ball park comparison but remember the color and surface condition has a significant affect on accuracy and if your pan is chrome or unpainted alum the IR gun is not a good choice. You can use some blue painters tape on the surface to help get a more accurate reading.

    But. the best way is to pull the sensor and place it in a liquid that you can control and accurately measure the temperature (water is a good choice and boiling water is a great way to test the sensor / gauge combo). If you use boiling water remember that water boils at different temps based on atmospheric pressure so if you're on the coast on a standard day it will be 212-deg, up here where the density altitude is over 8000' water boils at a much lower temp. So drop a thermometer in that boiling water to get the real temp. Yes, that's more trouble than using an IR gun on the oil pan but it is also much more accurate.

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