When running the brake line from the master cylinder to the rear, how close to the headers is acceptable?
How close to the driver's foot box are the headers?
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When running the brake line from the master cylinder to the rear, how close to the headers is acceptable?
How close to the driver's foot box are the headers?
Dave
Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
Greenhorn and doing the best I can
My photos are at: My Flickr acct
Videos are at: YouTube Videos
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
I ran my rear brake line down the 2" square tube INSIDE the cockpit to avoid the header heat. I curved the line around the accelerator pedal mount and out the bottom of the floor right next to the 4" round tube and from there along the 4" tube to the rear. The front brake line runs along the upper 3/4" sq tube, and is far enough above the headers that it is not affected by the heat.
FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)
X2. That's what I've done with two Coyote builds as well. Ran the rear brake line inside the footbox, out the bottom, and then along the frame rails back. Never close to the headers and heat, and a neat installation. Visible in these pics. Where it came out the bottom, I filled with Permatex Ultimate Black. Could also have been a grommet. I didn't use any unions. But if you do, don't put them inside the footbox where they would be hard to access if necessary. The line is visible in these pics.
Update: Unfortunately, looks like the pictures aren't showing. (Thanks Photobucket...) If you can't see them, they don't add too much. Just reinforce what others have also suggested to put the rear brake line in the DS footbox.
Last edited by edwardb; 10-05-2018 at 07:20 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I bet your 306 has pretty much the exact same clearance.
Yes; the extra sheet is a cosmetic stainless heat shield. I purchased the stainless from onlinemetals.com. Almost certainly unnecessary but I liked the look. The "spacers" are actually riv-nuts; they provide about 3/8" stand-off. Credit for the idea goes to MPTech. If you decide to install heat shields, be sure to round off the corners. Otherwise you'll cut/scratch your hand every time you test fit something.
And like the others, I ran my rear brake line down through the foot box. Post #196 of my build log (https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...r-build-9.html) has details. Unlike the others, I ran my front brake line down the lower 3/4" frame parallel to the steering column. That's described in post #187.
John
IMG_2245 by jhsitton, on Flickr
Last edited by phileas_fogg; 10-05-2018 at 07:23 AM.
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
For what it is worth, I ran my front line down the upper square tube and my rear inside the foot box and then under the car along the 4" frame tube.
Also, I'm running a Wilwood Pedal assembly so running the rear inside the foot box was an easy solution to avoid the heat of the headers.
You can see what I did between 7-25 seconds and again around 1:30- 1:40 minutes the attached video and
https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs
Also, I moved my fuse block to the opposite side of the car to make it easier to get to and to give me better access to the stuff hiding in the driver's foot-box.
Good Luck & Hope This Helps!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-05-2018 at 07:24 AM.