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Thread: Brake line question

  1. #1
    Senior Member John T's Avatar
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    Brake line question

    When running the brake line from the master cylinder to the rear, how close to the headers is acceptable?
    How close to the driver's foot box are the headers?

  2. #2
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    This won't answer your question, but rather a suggestion. I ran mine forward, then down to stay away from the headers/Jpipe

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
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  3. #3
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    What engine & what headers? The Coyote hardware is MUCH tighter to the foot box than my 302...


    John

    For my 302, I’ve got about 3/16” clearance between the closest part of the header and the corner of the foot box.

    IMG_2294 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    IMG_2293 by jhsitton, on Flickr
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  4. #4
    Senior Member frankb's Avatar
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    I ran my rear brake line down the 2" square tube INSIDE the cockpit to avoid the header heat. I curved the line around the accelerator pedal mount and out the bottom of the floor right next to the 4" round tube and from there along the 4" tube to the rear. The front brake line runs along the upper 3/4" sq tube, and is far enough above the headers that it is not affected by the heat.
    FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)

  5. #5
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankb View Post
    I ran my rear brake line down the 2" square tube INSIDE the cockpit to avoid the header heat. I curved the line around the accelerator pedal mount and out the bottom of the floor right next to the 4" round tube and from there along the 4" tube to the rear. The front brake line runs along the upper 3/4" sq tube, and is far enough above the headers that it is not affected by the heat.
    X2. That's what I've done with two Coyote builds as well. Ran the rear brake line inside the footbox, out the bottom, and then along the frame rails back. Never close to the headers and heat, and a neat installation. Visible in these pics. Where it came out the bottom, I filled with Permatex Ultimate Black. Could also have been a grommet. I didn't use any unions. But if you do, don't put them inside the footbox where they would be hard to access if necessary. The line is visible in these pics.

    Update: Unfortunately, looks like the pictures aren't showing. (Thanks Photobucket...) If you can't see them, they don't add too much. Just reinforce what others have also suggested to put the rear brake line in the DS footbox.







    Last edited by edwardb; 10-05-2018 at 07:20 AM.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member John T's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestions.

  7. #7
    Senior Member John T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    What engine & what headers? The Coyote hardware is MUCH tighter to the foot box than my 302...


    John

    For my 302, I’ve got about 3/16” clearance between the closest part of the header and the corner of the foot box.

    IMG_2294 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    IMG_2293 by jhsitton, on Flickr
    I have a Blueprint 306 with the ceramic headers.
    In you photos it appears that you have an extra sheet of aluminum on the front of your foot box. Is that correct? Does it supply a heat barrier for the foot box?

  8. #8
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    I bet your 306 has pretty much the exact same clearance.

    Yes; the extra sheet is a cosmetic stainless heat shield. I purchased the stainless from onlinemetals.com. Almost certainly unnecessary but I liked the look. The "spacers" are actually riv-nuts; they provide about 3/8" stand-off. Credit for the idea goes to MPTech. If you decide to install heat shields, be sure to round off the corners. Otherwise you'll cut/scratch your hand every time you test fit something.

    And like the others, I ran my rear brake line down through the foot box. Post #196 of my build log (https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...r-build-9.html) has details. Unlike the others, I ran my front brake line down the lower 3/4" frame parallel to the steering column. That's described in post #187.


    John

    IMG_2245 by jhsitton, on Flickr
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 10-05-2018 at 07:23 AM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  9. #9

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    For what it is worth, I ran my front line down the upper square tube and my rear inside the foot box and then under the car along the 4" frame tube.
    Also, I'm running a Wilwood Pedal assembly so running the rear inside the foot box was an easy solution to avoid the heat of the headers.
    You can see what I did between 7-25 seconds and again around 1:30- 1:40 minutes the attached video and

    https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

    Also, I moved my fuse block to the opposite side of the car to make it easier to get to and to give me better access to the stuff hiding in the driver's foot-box.

    Good Luck & Hope This Helps!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 10-05-2018 at 07:24 AM.

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