manual brakes

[plschulten]

I have a Gen II with power steering and brakes powered by a hydraboost system. Works fine but the pedal is really wooden, not a good "feel" to it and hard to modulate right up to max braking. So I'm thinking about going to manual steering and brakes. Not worried about the steering, but the reason we did the hydraboost is because the pedal took a LOT of pressure to get anything. Stock F5 setup. Anyone have ideas of a good manual master cylinder/caliper setup that isn't crazy $$$ and works well, has a good gradient/feel to it?

[GoDadGo]

Contact Gordon Levy Because He Is An Expert!

http://lrclassicsllc.com/

[scottiec]

My mk4 has manual steering and manual brakes. I have experimented a little with brake pads and they make all of the difference. Do not over brake the car. I enjoy the effort it takes to drive this car, because I wanted it to feel like an original.

Although I wouldn't hesitate to do manual again, a lot of guys on this forum swear by power steering or brakes. It's all preference.

[edwardb]

Count yourself in a very small group considering removing power steering or power brakes. Most of the discussion is about adding it. I'd highly recommend looking at different pad compounds to get the brake feel more to your liking. Also maybe you have the wrong pedal arm. There are different pivot points for manual versus power. Look at those options before removing the hydroboost. It can be made to work perfectly in my experience. Same for the power steering. If you don't like it, learn the ways it can be adjusted rather than removing.

[mike223]

I spent a lot of time on my build evaluating brake options and eventually went with a CNC241 dual MC with 5/8" going to the rear + 3/4" going to the front - 6:1 pedal - single piston 95 GT calipers in front - 89Tbird rear (old irs).

This setup worked pretty well, but had very little pedal "feel" + modulation - Very similar to stepping on a rock that doesn't move.

Last winter I decided to experiment with conventional tandem MCs and found that a conventional 21mm bore MC works very well for me with about a 4:1 pedal - much easier to modulate - much better "feel".

For a conventional MC try an Autozone NM1907 MC for 1982 Tbird / Granada.

If your brake plumbing at the MC is very stock "Mustangish" you might find Advance Auto Parts / Carquest MCA39637 to be a more strait forward installation (Mustang 21mm MC).


You certainly wouldn't want to run either of these MCs on hydroboost - you would have way too much assist.

As I said, mine works very well with a stock 4:1 pedal in the original mounting position. Most hydroboost pedals are more like 3:1 leverage I think.


Good Luck.

[Joel Hauser]

Scottie, which brand and model brake pads would you recommend.
I'm using manual brakes and manual steering on my mk4 roadster. I used a manual rack that I purchased from the factory five. I kind of like the feel of the steering. While it is very difficult to turn the wheel while standing still, once you reach 3-4 mph, there is no problem . The brakes, on the other hand, require a lot of pressure. I've never had to slam on the brakes, so I don't know if they would ever lock up. I'm using the original mustang donor car calipers, with stock rotors and pads. I'm using a single master cylinder, no boost.

[scottiec]

Scottie, which brand and model brake pads would you recommend.
I'm using manual brakes and manual steering on my mk4 roadster. I used a manual rack that I purchased from the factory five. I kind of like the feel of the steering. While it is very difficult to turn the wheel while standing still, once you reach 3-4 mph, there is no problem . The brakes, on the other hand, require a lot of pressure. I've never had to slam on the brakes, so I don't know if they would ever lock up. I'm using the original mustang donor car calipers, with stock rotors and pads. I'm using a single master cylinder, no boost.

Joel,
I am using sn95 mustang gt calipers and rotors up front and sn95 cobra in the rear. I went with G-LOC pads up front. I believe the G8 compound. After bedding them, the difference between those and then highest performance powerstop pads was unbelievable. Reduced pedal effort by 30% (not scientific but a very noticeable difference). On the rears I have hawk hp which I will eventually be switching to the G-LOC brand. I am using the Jeep master cylinder which is similar to yours and an sn95 pedal box from mike Everson with the pivot point changed.

I have used lots of different brands of pads in racing applications. After turning laps in the cobra with the g-locs I am impressed and happy.

[GoDadGo]

(Question For Scottiec / aka: Mr. Scott)

I've got the standard Mustang brakes up front with Explorer brakes out back.
Hawk makes pads for both so which compound would you suggest over the stock pads?
I'm just looking for options in the event that I want to reduce the pedal pressure while reducing stopping distance.
If the car gets Auto-Crossed and/or driven at Open Track Days then be advised that it will be minimal, very minimal.
Also, my weight distribution isn't the normal rear bias since I'm actually 50/50 front to rear & 50/50 left to right. (Before We Sit In It!)
99% of my track time will be at the strip traversing the 660', 1,000' & 1,320' at Gulfport Dragway.
I personally like the 1,000' dash the best since it is my Goldilocks distance. (Just Right)

[CraigS]

Hawk compounds in order of cold grip low to high, HPS and newer HPS5.0. These are usually grippier than a standard 'came w/ the calipers' pad and are an excellent pad w/ low dust and noise. For a significant step up in grip but w/ an increased amount of dust are the HP+ and newer Street/Race. I grouped them in pairs because the compounds in each pair are very similar w/ the newer one being slightly better. Regarding dust, 1-I have a small shop vac (<$50) w/ a brush attachment on the end of the hose. It is dedicated to cleaning dust from wheels, 2- ArmorAll dust repellent really does help.
https://www.pepboys.com/armor-all-br...roduct/1345711

[scottiec]

(Question For Scottiec / aka: Mr. Scott)

I've got the standard Mustang brakes up front with Explorer brakes out back.
Hawk makes pads for both so which compound would you suggest over the stock pads?
I'm just looking for options in the event that I want to reduce the pedal pressure while reducing stopping distance.
If the car gets Auto-Crossed and/or driven at Open Track Days then be advised that it will be minimal, very minimal.
Also, my weight distribution isn't the normal rear bias since I'm actually 50/50 front to rear & 50/50 left to right. (Before We Sit In It!)
99% of my track time will be at the strip traversing the 660', 1,000' & 1,320' at Gulfport Dragway.
I personally like the 1,000' dash the best since it is my Goldilocks distance. (Just Right)

To be totally honest, I would refer to Craig's post below. I have used a couple different Hawk pads, but all were very aggressive since they were for the racecar. I will say I am extremely pleased with the G-Locs. Something like a G6 compound would work great for you. Brake dust will always be a headache as soon as you get into anything with more bite. I will say this, I have preferred other brands than hawk, but you can't really go wrong with any nowadays, especially with how limited your track time will be.

[plschulten]

Great advice everyone thanks!

[Dave Howard]

Like Scottie, I have manual steering and brakes. Unlike Scottie, I purchased the Wilwood package through FFR designed specifically for the MkIV. I'm using the stock pads that came with the brake package. Large diameter rotors and 6 piston calipers up front provide all the stopping power I need. Braking does not require any extreme effort. I can lock the brakes up with easy. Over 20,000 miles and no regrets.

[forcefed1]

I don't have the same brakes as you. I have the 4 piston mustang GT brakes from a 2016. I've driven the car about 1300 miles. Im ALWAYS surprised how hard I have to hit the pedal to get the brakes to bite. I am using the stock pads. my bias is set correctly and the brakes are bled correctly.

yesterday I installed and bed Hawk HP+ 5.0 street pads. They will be used street and some HPDE. IM VERY HAPPY WITH THE CHANGE. Better initial bite good feel from the pedal so far. I put about 70 miles on them today.