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Sealer?
I have done the slick sand and 2K primer sequence and eventually sanding down to 600. However, when reading the sealer can it says to scuff with 180 prior to applying. Should I lightly scuff with 180, or apply the sealer to the 600 sanded surface? It does seem the sealer needs a slightly rough surface? Maybe I’m over thinking but any advice is appreciated!
MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
Levy 306
T5
2015 Mustang IRS
Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels
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sounds like what you have is primer-sealer, not a true sealer. You don't want to spray sealer on 180 grit substrate.
FFR6653 - 3.1 complete delivered 6/10/08, first start 2/18/2009, go-kart 3/31/09, titled 12/7/2011, 331 DSS short block, Holley Street HP650 DP/Vic Jr intake, Edel RPM 2.02 heads, XE282HR, 3.55, TKO600 .64OD midshift, 3 link, badass black, fat 15's on Team3's, Boig QuietPipes
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What kind of sealer and brand are you using. I sand my 2k to 500, seal and shoot. My sealer is a "Non-sanding" type. sanding sealer with 180 is going backwards...da Bat
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Senior Member
Agree with the posts above...
a pure sealer usually goes over primer that is sanded to 600, and is followed wet-on-wet with the colour coats.
Primer sealers are a little different, but I rarely (like, never) use those.
Are you sure you need a sealer at all? If your primer is sanded and there are no break-throughs, then you should be able to go straight to colour and clear.
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Originally Posted by
j.miller
What kind of sealer and brand are you using. I sand my 2k to 500, seal and shoot. My sealer is a "Non-sanding" type. sanding sealer with 180 is going backwards...da Bat
My sealer is a non sanding (unless more than a week has lapsed), my concern is whether the sealer was gonna have enough bite with a 500 sanded surface...paint shop guy says no problem and not sure why they say sand with 180? Another paint guy at the local body shop says, skip the sealer if I’ve used 2K...my current thinking is to forgo the sealer?
MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
Levy 306
T5
2015 Mustang IRS
Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels
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I like sealers, and they are a big help when shooting fine metallics as it makes a good medium for the base coat to adhere to and it reduces the likely hood of sanding marks showing up as streaks. You can shoot right over 500-600 sanded 2k primer if you sealed the car before the primer and you didn’t have major break throughs or filler work after the sealer. Personally I would reduce the sealer a little bit and shoot it over a 500-600 sanded 2k and go straight to base coat in the same booth session. Some may do it differently but this has always given great results for all the cars I’ve done.
Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.
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So Jacob, Everyone is on the same page here....No you don't "need" a sealer if you have no body filler showing through on final sanding. Without sealer....500 gr for solid (non metallic) base coat, 600 for metallics. That being said If you are not a pro (I'm talking sanding and painting) I would recommend sealer for matallics, big time for silver. Sealer has another use....COVERAGE ! Shooting a "Gray Tone" sealer or a "tinted sealer" in the color range you are shooting can save you material and heartache. The correct sealer in the "range" will get your base covered in three coats (so 3 qts color) will work. You are going to want a qt of color for stripe (should use 2/3rds of that) ….feel free to chat me up 951-676-0191 iffin need be . Da Bat
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Jacob thanked for this post
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
j.miller
So Jacob, Everyone is on the same page here....No you don't "need" a sealer if you have no body filler showing through on final sanding. Without sealer....500 gr for solid (non metallic) base coat, 600 for metallics. That being said If you are not a pro (I'm talking sanding and painting) I would recommend sealer for matallics, big time for silver. Sealer has another use....COVERAGE ! Shooting a "Gray Tone" sealer or a "tinted sealer" in the color range you are shooting can save you material and heartache. The correct sealer in the "range" will get your base covered in three coats (so 3 qts color) will work. You are going to want a qt of color for stripe (should use 2/3rds of that) ….feel free to chat me up 951-676-0191 iffin need be . Da Bat
I agree fully with this above. If you have any "bust throughs" on your primer, it can show through your color coat, and sealer will prevent that. If you have no bust throughs, then sealer is not technically necessary, but J.Miller is right... if you are shooting a metallic (silver is particularly unforgiving) or even a pearl, the flakes will find your sanding scratch and "track".. that is the flakes will orient themselves in line with the scratch instead of at random angles.. and this will highlight every little imperfection in your sanding. Sealer will fill (or at least soften the edges of) these scratches, giving a more true surface for your paint to flow over without tracking the flakes.
Under no circumstances would I shoot paint, even with a sealer, over 180 grit sanded primer. 500 at the minimum, 600 is better. Sealer should still have enough tooth for that.
He also made a good point about tinted sealer. I usually use tinted primer, and the same theory applies.