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Thread: First Start, no video oops.

  1. #1
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    First Start, no video oops.

    In short I got the A50XS Gen I Coyote started today. Good news, everything works. I had a few fuel leaks, left some tubing nuts loose, found with the key on test. After getting the leaks addressed, and double checking everything, hit the key and like a new Ford, it fired right up. I grabbed my cell phone, while checking the gauges, oil presssue, volts, tach, everything looked good no leaks.
    I watched the engine temp rise, waiting on the rad fan to come on. Just past 160* the engine changed tones and the fan had kicked on.
    Now trying to find my video, apparently I never hit the record button. The engine fired up so quickly and I wanted to check so many things, I did not get it recorded.
    I did not have the side pipes bolted on and ran it out the 4 into 1 headers. I really feel good about how the engine and hooks ups, all worked.
    I set the fuel pressure, at idle with the vacuum line connected at 58 lbs. Is this right?
    It pushed a little coolant in to an empty oil bottle, temp overflow tank, and it pulled it back on cool down.
    No issues on filling the engine with coolant. We did jack the front up to ensure the filler was the highest point.
    I had some PS fluid push out the FFR reservoir cap vent. Fluid had a lot of air in it on first warm up. It cleared up on second warm up.
    Oil pressure at 100 lbs, idle at 900 rpm. The engine surged only the first time the fan kicked on. Throttle seems to work fine.
    I got all the gauges working right. The clock works fine with a battery, not charger, in the car. I got the fuel gauge calibrated with guidance from Speed Hut. I poured 4 gallons of VP C-9 in the tank. I know I am jumping around in my message, but still pumped over the engine.
    Now for the down side. After much consultation and verification on the clutch fork pivot bolt length, it looks like the trans will have to come out. I wish I had gotten better information on the bolt length. When the clutch is pressed to the floor, the fork is hitting the pressure plate. Shortening the outside linkage would not correct it. I am using the Ford bell housing from Forte, with his clutch and etc. I had a choice of 3 bolts and used the short black one. Hopefully I will be able put in a longer pivot bolt and verify it will work, before buttoning everything back up.
    Thanks for all the replies and advise on getting it up and running.
    I will try and post a video soon.
    Last edited by Railroad; 10-18-2018 at 07:09 PM.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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  3. #2
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    OK, now that I have gotten over the excitement of having good results with the engine's first start, is the fuel pressure 55 lbs at idle with vacuum correct? Please tell me the trans will come out without pulling the engine. Does anyone have accurate info on which pivot bolt to use with the Ford bell housing, TKO 600 combination. I am hoping, I can check it with the bell housing on the engine and no trans, before putting it back together.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  4. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Congrats on the start! Always a big step and a good feeling. For a regular Coyote -- and I assume your A50XS Gen I would be the same -- the 55 psi setting is adjusted either with the engine off and fuel pump running. Or with the engine running and the vacuum line disconnected. You don't want the engine vacuum affecting the setting. Side note FWIW, two different Coyote tuners I've heard from don't want the vacuum reference line connected. I'm told to leave it off and let the regulator run open to atmosphere. That's how I'm running mine with the Lund Racing tune in my Gen 2 Coyote.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  5. #4
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I'm told to leave it off and let the regulator run open to atmosphere.
    Paul, I disconnected my vacuum line but I capped the port on the fuel regulator. We did our first start last weekend and it all seems to be running fine. You think I should uncap the regulator vacuum port and run it open ?

    First start and already have 4 miles running around the neighborhood in one afternoon. These cars are a blast to drive
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here

  6. #5
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewma View Post
    Paul, I disconnected my vacuum line but I capped the port on the fuel regulator. We did our first start last weekend and it all seems to be running fine. You think I should uncap the regulator vacuum port and run it open ?

    First start and already have 4 miles running around the neighborhood in one afternoon. These cars are a blast to drive
    I've left the vacuum reference line off #8674 ever since Lund Racing told me to last year. Not knowing any difference, I plugged the port on the fuel regulator. I helped another guy do a tune with Lund Racing a couple weeks ago, and they said (again) leave the reference line off, but also said leave the fuel regulator open to atmosphere. So I went ahead and did that on #8674. But I can't tell the difference, and honestly I'm not sure it matters. Maybe if you were changing elevation a lot, which I'm not. I think it's a really subtle point, and wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Just passing on what the tuning guys have told me.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  7. #6
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    My best mechanic friend came over today and we got the clutch fork pressure plate conflict resolved.
    We got the trans backed out of the bell housing enough to remove and replace the clutch fork pivot bolt.
    The one I had installed on the Ford bell housing was approx 1.5 inches long. The plated one we installed was 2 inches long. We had to shorten the slave cylinder plunger, but got a great pedal, good release point and no contact between the fork and pressure plate. We got started about 10:30 AM and finished about 2:40 PM.
    I have some poor video of the engine running. I will post when I get the sizing right.
    I have a new issue. The oil pressure went up to 100 lbs when cold and about 70 lbs warmed up.
    After running the engine a while I noticed the oil pressure gauge going from about 30 lbs to 60. It would hesitate at times and go up, stop and fall again. The engine has 8 qts of 5w-50, no leaks. I am hoping it is a bad sending unit or gauge. Anyone have this occur?
    Hate to dilute the subject, but I need some help on setting the toe on the IRS MKIV.
    I am just trying to rough it in and tighten the adjustment lock nuts. Any advise on the alignment is welcome.
    Thanks,

    I have a couple of the videos downloaded to my computer, but need help on attaching.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  8. #7
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    Here are some poor videos of checking things out on the Coyote in the Mk IV.
    You might get a glimpes of my chief cook and bottle washer. He wanted to see how the trans shifted after changing out the pivot bolt. That job went about as well as it could. We got started about 10:30 am and put the last bolt back in at 2:44.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eyOSwlOAyw
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWiS92pdN9Y
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  9. #8
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Pretty Cool Railroad.... It was fun watching another 20th running... I"m getting very close to a first start... Watching and the walk around and seeing the gray & white powder coat really shows how good that combination can look...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

  10. #9
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    Thanks for the comments. Here is my friend comparing my trans shifts to his.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on8iMFH1w7k
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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