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Thread: #1104 Steve's 33 Rod Build - A/C Lines install

  1. #41
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Driver's side IRS done.

    Seasoned builders, please let me know if you see anything that doesn't look quite right.

    BUILD TIP: Take the spindle and trial fit it to the LCA and toe adjustment arm first before putting the CV axles in place. It's much harder to spread the mounting tabs to fit the spindle while having to hold the CV out of the way. Once you've got the tabs spread apart enough then put the CV axle in place and connect the LCA, etc permanently.

    IMG_2558a.jpg

    IMG_2559a.jpg

    IMG_2560a.jpg

    IMG_2561a.jpg
    Last edited by FF33rod; 12-02-2018 at 12:12 AM.

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  3. #42
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    Since I didn't go to the build school, I really appreciate these tips! Keep em coming.

  4. #43
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    I've been working on the front suspension, a lot of powder coating to do. Will post a pic or two when it's all together. BUT, in the mean time, I picked up the wheels & tires today. Super pleased with how they look. Went full on for the rears, 18 x 11 with 315s. Tony confirmed it should fit but man it's going to be close.
    IMG_2581a.jpg IMG_2583a.jpg

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  6. #44

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    Nice looking wheels! What are they?

  7. #45
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Thanks! Cant tell you how long I agonized over the decision. Anyone else make lists of options in word or excel day after day? Valvecovers were even harder. Anyway, these are Foose Coupe F238
    Last edited by FF33rod; 12-18-2018 at 10:37 AM.

  8. #46
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Anyone else make lists of options in word or excel day after day?

    Yes! I have a spread sheet with multiple tabs in it for my build. One tab was for nothing but wheels and tires, photos of cars with tire specs, links to web sites, and prices and sizes. Took me over a year to finally figure out what I really wanted. I now have the tires waiting on the wheels, which have been ordered and I am just waiting on them to be delivered.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  10. #47
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    okay, busy time of year with family and friends. I'm kinda the main cook in the family, at least for large family feasts so there hasn't been a ton of time for the rod. The front suspension is all powder coated except for the upper arms as they are too big to fit into the Eastwood oven. So I've moved on to other things including working on the firewall. Some interference in fitting the 3 firewall pieces - the welds are bulging out in the odd spot.

    Here's a pic of the lower firewall, drive side. Note how it can't sit flat against the frame.
    IMG_2605a.jpg

    here's a couple of pics with the interference areas circled
    IMG_2606a.jpg IMG_2607a.jpg

    So some grinding is necessary. Also put a chamfer in some areas of the aluminum to help with the fit, rather than take away more of the weld.
    IMG_2608a.jpg

    Fits much better now
    IMG_2610a.jpg

    Using a laser level to ensure everything is symmetrical, first leveled out the chassis and now marking the firewall pieces so they end up mounted level as well.
    IMG_2611a.jpg

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  12. #48
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    It's interesting to see what parts you didn't get vs mine, since we got our cars delivered(1102) on the same day. Scott just stopped by and dropped off my new roof and waterfall this morning. Looks much better than the first one.

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  14. #49
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    Does your frame have the straight top rail in the door opening, or does it drop down in front like the Gen 2 design? Mine drops like the Gen 2, but the body and floor panels are Gen 1.

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    I have #1095 delivered mid Sept 17' and the chassis Has the drop door opening but the body does Not. I am not near the body work yet but planning ahead I think I will cut the fiberglass and make my body match the chassis. I am not an expert at glass work but have done a little in the past. ALSO, I notice the newest version of 33's have functional louvers on side engine panels. Always liked louvers and considering adding them to my side panels but have no idea how to get there. Yet. They can be only cosmetic but functional would be nice too. Any ideas out there? I have done internet search and found very little, at least in fiberglass. I guess I could get new side panels if they are available.

  16. #51
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    They work very good to get heat out, was going that way but now have opening under and around turbos.

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  18. #52
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    Does your frame have the straight top rail in the door opening, or does it drop down in front like the Gen 2 design? Mine drops like the Gen 2, but the body and floor panels are Gen 1.
    Frame drops at the door but like yours, body is Gen 1

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    I asked FFR and they told me that louvered side panels are planned for the 32 and 33 style grill. No availability date yet.

  20. #54
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    So the holiday season is behind us along with a quick vacation to mexico, then a biz trip, some family birthdays, and finally I have some time to spend with my mistress (that's what my wife is referring to the 33 as these days).

    Build Tip: drilling the firewall After marking up and then drilling the firewall you will place the firewall panels back on the frame and clamp them in place ready to drill into the frame. Only drill a couple of holes, and then install clecos (or button heads if that's what you're using) to hold the firewall while you drill the remaining holes. The clecos or screws hold the panel much firmer than a clamp that may allow some slippage.

    I've finally finished powder coating all the front suspension, have installed the front spindles and brakes and test fit the wheels. Feeling good about this!

    IMG_2646a.jpg IMG_2642a.jpg

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  22. #55
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    So the holiday season is behind us along with a quick vacation to mexico, then a biz trip, some family birthdays, and finally I have some time to spend with my mistress (that's what my wife is referring to the 33 as these days).

    Build Tip: drilling the firewall After marking up and then drilling the firewall you will place the firewall panels back on the frame and clamp them in place ready to drill into the frame. Only drill a couple of holes, and then install clecos (or button heads if that's what you're using) to hold the firewall while you drill the remaining holes. The clecos or screws hold the panel much firmer than a clamp that may allow some slippage.

    I've finally finished powder coating all the front suspension, have installed the front spindles and brakes and test fit the wheels. Feeling good about this!

    IMG_2646a.jpg IMG_2642a.jpg
    Would suggest that you flip your fronts 180 degrees if you intend on adjusting them or they will be a PIA to adjust.
    PS. Clecos are my best friend!

  23. #56
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I believe these are the KONI DA’s and if so they can’t be flipped (or at least what I was advised by FFR on mine).
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19

  24. #57
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    I believe these are the KONI DAís and if so they canít be flipped (or at least what I was advised by FFR on mine).
    These are mine and don't seem to be the same so you may be right, I would also suggest asking FFR or contacting Kioni direct. I know that mine can be flipped over.
    20180428_113912.jpg 20180813_203049.jpg

  25. #58
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    I believe these are the KONI DA’s and if so they can’t be flipped (or at least what I was advised by FFR on mine).
    You are correct, these are the upgraded shocks (dual adjustable) and you can mount them one way only - with the body down.

  26. #59
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Brake lines are in along with steering rack, shafts, electric power steering, column and wheel.
    IMG_2648a.jpg IMG_2653a.jpg

  27. #60
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Steering Wheel adaptor interference

    So when I put the steering colum in place and added the steering wheel with adaptor, the wheel wouldn't move. The adaptor tightened down right onto the column with no space as shown in the first picture below. The second picture shows the top of the steering colum that the adaptor goes onto. What is needed in some cases is a washer. I picked up a 1/8" thick rubber washer with an inside diameter hole of 3/4". Cut out a space for the horn button contact and installed as shown in pic #3. Last picture shows the steering adaptor and wheel back on with a bit of a space now that allows movement. This is a good thing

    IMG_2657a.jpg IMG_2658a.jpg IMG_2660a.jpg IMG_2661a.jpg

  28. #61
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Fuse panel location

    I stared at the fuse panel mount and the description in the manual of where it should be installed. Not sure why but it just didn't click initially although it's simple and makes sense. Here's a couple of pictures showing the install so anyone else tripping through this thread will have the visual. Also note that for the hot rod you do not use the aluminum mount for the fuse panel that comes in the Ron Francis wiring box - discard that and use the one that is found in the box of aluminum pieces for the hot rod. Note that I have installed replicaparts' inner firewall which shows in the pics.

    IMG_2663a.jpg IMG_2668a.jpg IMG_2670a.jpg
    Last edited by FF33rod; 02-10-2019 at 08:21 PM.

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  30. #62
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Examine your fuse panel when installing

    I was perusing the panel before installing it in the aluminum frame and I discovered a wire that had pulled out of its crimp. A quick solder job fixed it but have a look before installing to make sure yours doesn't have any similar issues...

    IMG_2671a.jpg

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  32. #63
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    You've been busy!
    I've been talked into fitting the body and panels first, before putting all the shiny parts on. It's the crappiest part of the build, so if I do it first I hope not to burn out on it later.

  33. #64
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Back to prepping the 347 - hydraulic throwout bearing

    So after laying the wire harness in the frame I turned back to drivetrain prep and the clutch.
    In the last post regarding the engine, I hadn't picked out the valve covers nor had the distributor and spark plug wires in place. So that is now done.

    IMG_2698a.jpg

    So I'm now pulling the engine off the stand that attaches to the rear and placing it onto one that supports it from the bottom.

    On the TKO600 I pulled off the sleeve for the throwout bearing and replaced it with the RAM unit

    IMG_2702a.jpg

    Then I placed the Ram hydraulic throwout bearing onto the shaft - ready to mount the bell housing and take measurements to see how many shims are needed to get the correct spacing between the face of the bearing and the clutch

    IMG_2705a.jpg

    Attached flywheel and then clutch plate and housing.

    IMG_2706a.jpg IMG_2707a.jpg

    With the added weight of the clutch on the rear of the block, the whole thing was a bit unstable on the stand so I had to support it with the floor jack. Going to be fun when I add the tranny.
    Last edited by FF33rod; 02-21-2019 at 12:20 AM.

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  35. #65
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    Looking good!

  36. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    I stared at the fuse panel mount and the description in the manual of where it should be installed. Not sure why but it just didn't click initially although it's simple and makes sense. Here's a couple of pictures showing the install so anyone else tripping through this thread will have the visual. Also note that for the hot rod you do not use the aluminum mount for the fuse panel that comes in the Ron Francis wiring box - discard that and use the one that is found in the box of aluminum pieces for the hot rod. Note that I have installed replicaparts' inner firewall which shows in the pics.

    IMG_2663a.jpg IMG_2668a.jpg IMG_2670a.jpg
    It looks like FFR improved the mounting somewhat. I didn't get as nice a mount in my kit (#640). I would still add a light aluminum brace from the passenger side of the bracket to the firewall to stabilize it a little.

  37. #67
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Yes, the aluminum panel was part of the FFR HR parts and you discard the one included with the Ron Francis harness. I will be looking at a bit more support once I understand and decide where to put all the other stuff that is going on the firewall - aux fuse panel, power steering control, A/C, etc....

  38. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Yes, the aluminum panel was part of the FFR HR parts and you discard the one included with the Ron Francis harness. I will be looking at a bit more support once I understand and decide where to put all the other stuff that is going on the firewall - aux fuse panel, power steering control, A/C, etc....
    Lots of pics please when you get that all figured out.

  39. #69
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Added some wiring

    Had some time to work on the 33 Saturday, added a number of wires.
    Through the console to the rear - speakers and window switches.
    Added to the main harness going under the car - door switch (for courtesy lights), door poppers.
    Need to get some wire loom to cover it all up now...

    IMG_2709a.jpg IMG_2711a.jpg

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  41. #70
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Engine install

    So before finalizing the routing of wiring and installing various parts on the firewall I wanted to understand where the engine would sit. So I spent a couple of hours tonight putting the sucker into the frame. Went very smooth but had to move the jackstands on the front part of the frame to allow room for the legs of the crane

    Step 1 was attach the TKO600 and then I removed it from the engine stand
    IMG_2717a.jpg IMG_2718a.jpg

    IMG_2720a.jpg IMG_2721a.jpg

    and then I just had to set the Sniper and Scoop on top to see how it all looked. I'm stoked! Love it. The scoop is a bit high, it will be used if/when I run with no hood...

    IMG_2723a.jpg IMG_2725a.jpg IMG_2726a.jpg

    Build Tip: It's fine to have the headers on but remove the upper rear stud where the J-pipe attaches, it's very easy for it to hit and scratch the fire wall. Actually, probably best to remove both studs.

    Build Tip: Although you don't have to remove the electric power steering motor to get the engine in, it's impossible to tighten the nut on the stud that drops into the mount with the steering motor in place so remove it before putting the engine in.
    Last edited by FF33rod; 03-01-2019 at 01:40 PM.

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  43. #71
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    Steve

    Looking great

    Do you sleep?

  44. #72
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Only putting in a few hours a week. I was doing more before it got so darn cold. The tiny heater I have in the garage doesn't make a dent in the temperature when it's below freezing outside...

  45. #73
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    Vintage Air Compact Gen II install instructions

    Looks like Hot Rod 2.0 has a newer more compact Vintage Air A/C heater system. The install instructions for this newer generation is now on the FFR web site instructions page. For those looking for the instructions for a Vintage Air Compact Gen II system (used in the last couple of years before 2019), here is a link to the appropriate instructions https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...ER-HOT-ROD.pdf

  46. #74
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Wow, a long time since I posted an update. In the past 6 weeks I have been working on the 33 but not quite as much as I would like. The '33, according to my wife, is my second mistress. I've been spending some time with my first mistress as well - a sailboat. This time of year it's the start of race season, just finished an over night (100 nautical mile) race on this past Easter weekend. We managed a first in division and a second (out of 45) for the course we raced. Happy with that. We have a 2 week race going around Vancouver Island at the beginning of June. After that, it will be enough racing for awhile and I'll hopefully be focused more on mistress #2....

    I've been multiplexing between a few things:
    - brake and clutch reservoirs are installed
    - hydraulic clutch lines are installed and bled
    - brake lines bled
    - most of the wiring is complete including the Holley Sniper and HyperSpark ignition, plan on doing a post specifically on Sniper wiring in the next week or two
    - have extended the wiring for the electric power steering to go to the control unit which will be mounted on the people side of the firewall
    - been fiddling around with the gas pedal install, cable, and throttle bracket for the Sniper (details in the next post)
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog Ignition

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  48. #75
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Holley Sniper throttle cable and gas pedal

    When I bought the pieces to put the engine together there were a lot of "incidentals" that didn't get thought of. Not sure if you guys that bought from Blueprint or another full meal deal crate engine got things like a throttle cable bracket, but that is one of the incidentals that I needed to figure out. It doesn't come in the FF kit, the Edelbrock manifold has a plate for a bracket to mount to but no bracket. An email to Edelbrock asking for recommendations went unanswered (as most do to the big suppliers). Long story short, I went shopping at Summit. First attempt was to pick up a fancy billet aluminum Edelbrock bracket (8041) that is supposed to work with 4150 style carbs. It did not provide enough clearance for the Sniper throttle linkage. Second attempt was to pick up a Lokar unit XTCB-40HS and it works great.

    The FF throttle cable is quite long and is not easily shortened given the crimped ends. So I picked up a "universal" Lokar cable (TC-1000U36) and trimmed it to length (about 30 inches) to allow for fairly large radius bends to minimize friction but not take up a huge a mount of room in the engine compartment. Here's how it looks....

    IMG_2795a.jpg IMG_2796a.jpg

    For the gas pedal installation I followed the build school suggestion and mounted it on a piece of aluminum extrusion that spaces it out from the firewall a bit. I also have the Tim Whittaker pedal that matches the brake and clutch pedal design. The pedal operates relatively free, no binding. Force is a little high as you approach full throttle and that causes some flex in the firewall but I'm hoping that all stiffens up once it's installed properly and attached to floor panels, transmission tunnel, etc.
    Here is how that all looks - the hydraulic line you see is for the clutch, decided to keep it relatively short and not route through the engine compartment.

    IMG_2799a.jpg
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog Ignition

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  50. #76
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I had (have) some similar issues with my set-up, in fact the throttle cable still is not straight in line. I will need to make or purchase a longer mounting bracket in the rear to offset the cable a bit more. Your set-up looks really good.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19

  51. #77
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Engine first start

    Well, it finally happened!
    I had enough progress on the overall wiring, Digital Guard Dawg keyless ignition, and radiator/grill install to go for first engine start.
    Actually, I'm still missing a 3/4" heater hose/adaptor so the cooling system is still not functional. Needless to say that limits the run time!

    First, I apologize for the state of my "workshop". This is the smallest 2 car garage I've ever had so it is squishy trying to build a car in there. About once a week I have to make a conscious effort to go around and clean things up. Clearly I didn't do that before this event. I'm very envious of you guys that have a nice dedicated space and are super organized.
    Second, I apologize for the quality of the video and the commentary. Next time I'm going to try to get an assistant to at least hold the camera. Doing that, pushing on the brake, pushing an ignition button and trying to sound intelligent seemed to be too much multi tasking for me LOL...

    The strategy here was to see if the engine would crank without the coil connected to the distributor. Then connect that up, add gas and see if it would run.
    So here's the first video, had to laugh as I hadn't even connected the battery before starting to record....

    https://youtu.be/4WjPPAeJt4U

    Without another foot, hand or something to depress the clutch I pulled the wires off the clutch switch and just shorted them out.

    https://youtu.be/kXNXWVJJ5Ik

    Added gas, connected the distributor and let it rip... I quickly found out that a fuel line was loose and shut it down after a second or two running. Tightened up that and went at it again....

    https://youtu.be/W5W1DXRaljQ

    Well that was darn exciting and satisfying! Time to find the proper size heater hose and get some coolant in so I can run it longer and see what the Sniper is doing - need to get it into closed loop learn mode and get a 20 minute period to break the engine in... maybe I'll add some mufflers before that as well to spare my ears... for now though, I still have a smile on my face
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog Ignition

  52. #78
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    Congratulations! Wonderful milestone. I ordered my engine, so I now will focus on bodywork before the mechanical stuff. All looking great there,
    - Peter

    Peterh226. #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Delivered 4/14/2019.

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  54. #79
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    Awesome first start

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Too busy

    Just a quick update...

    After the first start shown above, I did get the heater hoses straightened away and some coolant in the engine so I could run it longer. As some may have seen in a separate engine thread, I had issues with the engine not running right at all which during about a 2 week period was eventually tracked down to an error I had made in missing a plug needed in the intake manifold.
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Backfiring-why That was rather all consuming for that period of time as I read different articles and tried a few things.

    For the last week and the next 3, my first mistress (as my wife refers to her) is demanding attention. We have a 40 foot sailboat that we cruise and club race here on the West Coast of Canada. Every 2 years there is a race that circumnavigates Vancouver Island over the period of 2 weeks - 9 different legs/races. https://www.vanisle360.com/about-2/history/
    We have a team of 9 including myself and it is a ton of fun (provided there is wind, otherwise it's extremely frustrating). This will be the 5th time doing this and requires a lot of preparation and work to do though. So this week is crazy busy renting liferafts and putting other safety requirements in place, buying stuff at Costco, etc. And then starting this weekend, we are off! We won our division in 2015, which was the last time we did it, but the wind gods were very generous at that time.

    The bad news, no work on the '33 until the latter half of June. I'll be checking in once in awhile though to follow your builds....

    Cheers
    Steve
    Last edited by FF33rod; 05-27-2019 at 05:31 PM.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog Ignition

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