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Thread: #1104 Steve's 33 Rod Build

  1. #41
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Driver's side IRS done.

    Seasoned builders, please let me know if you see anything that doesn't look quite right.

    BUILD TIP: Take the spindle and trial fit it to the LCA and toe adjustment arm first before putting the CV axles in place. It's much harder to spread the mounting tabs to fit the spindle while having to hold the CV out of the way. Once you've got the tabs spread apart enough then put the CV axle in place and connect the LCA, etc permanently.

    IMG_2558a.jpg

    IMG_2559a.jpg

    IMG_2560a.jpg

    IMG_2561a.jpg
    Last edited by FF33rod; 12-02-2018 at 12:12 AM.

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  3. #42
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    Since I didn't go to the build school, I really appreciate these tips! Keep em coming.

  4. #43
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    I've been working on the front suspension, a lot of powder coating to do. Will post a pic or two when it's all together. BUT, in the mean time, I picked up the wheels & tires today. Super pleased with how they look. Went full on for the rears, 18 x 11 with 315s. Tony confirmed it should fit but man it's going to be close.
    IMG_2581a.jpg IMG_2583a.jpg

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  6. #44

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    Nice looking wheels! What are they?

  7. #45
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Thanks! Cant tell you how long I agonized over the decision. Anyone else make lists of options in word or excel day after day? Valvecovers were even harder. Anyway, these are Foose Coupe F238
    Last edited by FF33rod; 12-18-2018 at 10:37 AM.

  8. #46
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Anyone else make lists of options in word or excel day after day?

    Yes! I have a spread sheet with multiple tabs in it for my build. One tab was for nothing but wheels and tires, photos of cars with tire specs, links to web sites, and prices and sizes. Took me over a year to finally figure out what I really wanted. I now have the tires waiting on the wheels, which have been ordered and I am just waiting on them to be delivered.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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  10. #47
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    okay, busy time of year with family and friends. I'm kinda the main cook in the family, at least for large family feasts so there hasn't been a ton of time for the rod. The front suspension is all powder coated except for the upper arms as they are too big to fit into the Eastwood oven. So I've moved on to other things including working on the firewall. Some interference in fitting the 3 firewall pieces - the welds are bulging out in the odd spot.

    Here's a pic of the lower firewall, drive side. Note how it can't sit flat against the frame.
    IMG_2605a.jpg

    here's a couple of pics with the interference areas circled
    IMG_2606a.jpg IMG_2607a.jpg

    So some grinding is necessary. Also put a chamfer in some areas of the aluminum to help with the fit, rather than take away more of the weld.
    IMG_2608a.jpg

    Fits much better now
    IMG_2610a.jpg

    Using a laser level to ensure everything is symmetrical, first leveled out the chassis and now marking the firewall pieces so they end up mounted level as well.
    IMG_2611a.jpg

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  12. #48
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    It's interesting to see what parts you didn't get vs mine, since we got our cars delivered(1102) on the same day. Scott just stopped by and dropped off my new roof and waterfall this morning. Looks much better than the first one.

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  14. #49
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    Does your frame have the straight top rail in the door opening, or does it drop down in front like the Gen 2 design? Mine drops like the Gen 2, but the body and floor panels are Gen 1.

  15. #50

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    I have #1095 delivered mid Sept 17' and the chassis Has the drop door opening but the body does Not. I am not near the body work yet but planning ahead I think I will cut the fiberglass and make my body match the chassis. I am not an expert at glass work but have done a little in the past. ALSO, I notice the newest version of 33's have functional louvers on side engine panels. Always liked louvers and considering adding them to my side panels but have no idea how to get there. Yet. They can be only cosmetic but functional would be nice too. Any ideas out there? I have done internet search and found very little, at least in fiberglass. I guess I could get new side panels if they are available.

  16. #51
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    They work very good to get heat out, was going that way but now have opening under and around turbos.

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  18. #52
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    Does your frame have the straight top rail in the door opening, or does it drop down in front like the Gen 2 design? Mine drops like the Gen 2, but the body and floor panels are Gen 1.
    Frame drops at the door but like yours, body is Gen 1

  19. #53
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    I asked FFR and they told me that louvered side panels are planned for the 32 and 33 style grill. No availability date yet.

  20. #54
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    So the holiday season is behind us along with a quick vacation to mexico, then a biz trip, some family birthdays, and finally I have some time to spend with my mistress (that's what my wife is referring to the 33 as these days).

    Build Tip: drilling the firewall After marking up and then drilling the firewall you will place the firewall panels back on the frame and clamp them in place ready to drill into the frame. Only drill a couple of holes, and then install clecos (or button heads if that's what you're using) to hold the firewall while you drill the remaining holes. The clecos or screws hold the panel much firmer than a clamp that may allow some slippage.

    I've finally finished powder coating all the front suspension, have installed the front spindles and brakes and test fit the wheels. Feeling good about this!

    IMG_2646a.jpg IMG_2642a.jpg

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  22. #55
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    So the holiday season is behind us along with a quick vacation to mexico, then a biz trip, some family birthdays, and finally I have some time to spend with my mistress (that's what my wife is referring to the 33 as these days).

    Build Tip: drilling the firewall After marking up and then drilling the firewall you will place the firewall panels back on the frame and clamp them in place ready to drill into the frame. Only drill a couple of holes, and then install clecos (or button heads if that's what you're using) to hold the firewall while you drill the remaining holes. The clecos or screws hold the panel much firmer than a clamp that may allow some slippage.

    I've finally finished powder coating all the front suspension, have installed the front spindles and brakes and test fit the wheels. Feeling good about this!

    IMG_2646a.jpg IMG_2642a.jpg
    Would suggest that you flip your fronts 180 degrees if you intend on adjusting them or they will be a PIA to adjust.
    PS. Clecos are my best friend!

  23. #56
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I believe these are the KONI DA’s and if so they can’t be flipped (or at least what I was advised by FFR on mine).
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster, Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19

  24. #57
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    I believe these are the KONI DAís and if so they canít be flipped (or at least what I was advised by FFR on mine).
    These are mine and don't seem to be the same so you may be right, I would also suggest asking FFR or contacting Kioni direct. I know that mine can be flipped over.
    20180428_113912.jpg 20180813_203049.jpg

  25. #58
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    I believe these are the KONI DA’s and if so they can’t be flipped (or at least what I was advised by FFR on mine).
    You are correct, these are the upgraded shocks (dual adjustable) and you can mount them one way only - with the body down.

  26. #59
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Brake lines are in along with steering rack, shafts, electric power steering, column and wheel.
    IMG_2648a.jpg IMG_2653a.jpg

  27. #60
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Steering Wheel adaptor interference

    So when I put the steering colum in place and added the steering wheel with adaptor, the wheel wouldn't move. The adaptor tightened down right onto the column with no space as shown in the first picture below. The second picture shows the top of the steering colum that the adaptor goes onto. What is needed in some cases is a washer. I picked up a 1/8" thick rubber washer with an inside diameter hole of 3/4". Cut out a space for the horn button contact and installed as shown in pic #3. Last picture shows the steering adaptor and wheel back on with a bit of a space now that allows movement. This is a good thing

    IMG_2657a.jpg IMG_2658a.jpg IMG_2660a.jpg IMG_2661a.jpg

  28. #61
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Fuse panel location

    I stared at the fuse panel mount and the description in the manual of where it should be installed. Not sure why but it just didn't click initially although it's simple and makes sense. Here's a couple of pictures showing the install so anyone else tripping through this thread will have the visual. Also note that for the hot rod you do not use the aluminum mount for the fuse panel that comes in the Ron Francis wiring box - discard that and use the one that is found in the box of aluminum pieces for the hot rod. Note that I have installed replicaparts' inner firewall which shows in the pics.

    IMG_2663a.jpg IMG_2668a.jpg IMG_2670a.jpg
    Last edited by FF33rod; 02-10-2019 at 08:21 PM.

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  30. #62
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Examine your fuse panel when installing

    I was perusing the panel before installing it in the aluminum frame and I discovered a wire that had pulled out of its crimp. A quick solder job fixed it but have a look before installing to make sure yours doesn't have any similar issues...

    IMG_2671a.jpg

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  32. #63
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    You've been busy!
    I've been talked into fitting the body and panels first, before putting all the shiny parts on. It's the crappiest part of the build, so if I do it first I hope not to burn out on it later.

  33. #64
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Back to prepping the 347 - hydraulic throwout bearing

    So after laying the wire harness in the frame I turned back to drivetrain prep and the clutch.
    In the last post regarding the engine, I hadn't picked out the valve covers nor had the distributor and spark plug wires in place. So that is now done.

    IMG_2698a.jpg

    So I'm now pulling the engine off the stand that attaches to the rear and placing it onto one that supports it from the bottom.

    On the TKO600 I pulled off the sleeve for the throwout bearing and replaced it with the RAM unit

    IMG_2702a.jpg

    Then I placed the Ram hydraulic throwout bearing onto the shaft - ready to mount the bell housing and take measurements to see how many shims are needed to get the correct spacing between the face of the bearing and the clutch

    IMG_2705a.jpg

    Attached flywheel and then clutch plate and housing.

    IMG_2706a.jpg IMG_2707a.jpg

    With the added weight of the clutch on the rear of the block, the whole thing was a bit unstable on the stand so I had to support it with the floor jack. Going to be fun when I add the tranny.
    Last edited by FF33rod; 02-21-2019 at 12:20 AM.

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  35. #65
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    Looking good!

  36. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    I stared at the fuse panel mount and the description in the manual of where it should be installed. Not sure why but it just didn't click initially although it's simple and makes sense. Here's a couple of pictures showing the install so anyone else tripping through this thread will have the visual. Also note that for the hot rod you do not use the aluminum mount for the fuse panel that comes in the Ron Francis wiring box - discard that and use the one that is found in the box of aluminum pieces for the hot rod. Note that I have installed replicaparts' inner firewall which shows in the pics.

    IMG_2663a.jpg IMG_2668a.jpg IMG_2670a.jpg
    It looks like FFR improved the mounting somewhat. I didn't get as nice a mount in my kit (#640). I would still add a light aluminum brace from the passenger side of the bracket to the firewall to stabilize it a little.

  37. #67
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Yes, the aluminum panel was part of the FFR HR parts and you discard the one included with the Ron Francis harness. I will be looking at a bit more support once I understand and decide where to put all the other stuff that is going on the firewall - aux fuse panel, power steering control, A/C, etc....

  38. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Yes, the aluminum panel was part of the FFR HR parts and you discard the one included with the Ron Francis harness. I will be looking at a bit more support once I understand and decide where to put all the other stuff that is going on the firewall - aux fuse panel, power steering control, A/C, etc....
    Lots of pics please when you get that all figured out.

  39. #69
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Added some wiring

    Had some time to work on the 33 Saturday, added a number of wires.
    Through the console to the rear - speakers and window switches.
    Added to the main harness going under the car - door switch (for courtesy lights), door poppers.
    Need to get some wire loom to cover it all up now...

    IMG_2709a.jpg IMG_2711a.jpg

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  41. #70
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Engine install

    So before finalizing the routing of wiring and installing various parts on the firewall I wanted to understand where the engine would sit. So I spent a couple of hours tonight putting the sucker into the frame. Went very smooth but had to move the jackstands on the front part of the frame to allow room for the legs of the crane

    Step 1 was attach the TKO600 and then I removed it from the engine stand
    IMG_2717a.jpg IMG_2718a.jpg

    IMG_2720a.jpg IMG_2721a.jpg

    and then I just had to set the Sniper and Scoop on top to see how it all looked. I'm stoked! Love it. The scoop is a bit high, it will be used if/when I run with no hood...

    IMG_2723a.jpg IMG_2725a.jpg IMG_2726a.jpg

    Build Tip: It's fine to have the headers on but remove the upper rear stud where the J-pipe attaches, it's very easy for it to hit and scratch the fire wall. Actually, probably best to remove both studs.

    Build Tip: Although you don't have to remove the electric power steering motor to get the engine in, it's impossible to tighten the nut on the stud that drops into the mount with the steering motor in place so remove it before putting the engine in.
    Last edited by FF33rod; 03-01-2019 at 01:40 PM.

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  43. #71
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    Steve

    Looking great

    Do you sleep?

  44. #72
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Only putting in a few hours a week. I was doing more before it got so darn cold. The tiny heater I have in the garage doesn't make a dent in the temperature when it's below freezing outside...

  45. #73
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Vintage Air Compact Gen II install instructions

    Looks like Hot Rod 2.0 has a newer more compact Vintage Air A/C heater system. The install instructions for this newer generation is now on the FFR web site instructions page. For those looking for the instructions for a Vintage Air Compact Gen II system (used in the last couple of years before 2019), here is a link to the appropriate instructions https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...ER-HOT-ROD.pdf

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