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Thread: #1104 (Gen1) Steve's 33 Rod Build - door panels

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  1. #1
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    #1104 (Gen1) Steve's 33 Rod Build - door panels

    Hello everyone. Steve (ff33rod) here up in the Vancouver area on the West Coast of Canada. I'm getting bored waiting for my engine parts and 33 kit to be delivered so thought I'd start my build thread. I've put some of the brake parts together so hopefully I can say I've officially started building

    Here's the plan for my '33, all new parts no donor:
    Powder Coated Chassis
    347 SBF power (see below)
    Tremec TKO600 (0.64 o/d)
    2015 Mustang IRS with 3.55
    Leather Roadster Seats
    Standard Hood
    Double adjustable Koni shocks front and rear
    Rear Exhaust
    Chrome/tilt steering column
    Electric power steering
    AC/Heat
    Roadster and Hard top options
    Power windows
    Bike Fenders
    12.88" Wilwood upgrade front and rear with Black Calipers

    I decided building the HR wasn't enough, I might as well do an engine too I chatted with the BluePrint guys and they were super responsive and helpful but didn't have exactly what I wanted nor did anyone else have something right out of the box. I was looking for something in the 450 HP and torque range. So since I'd have to get someone to build it for me I decided, what the heck I might as well put together an engine too. To avoid all the high precision machining, I decided to go with purchasing a short block, adding a known combination of top end components along with other added bits. Enter the gents at TRE Performance in California. Here's the list...

    TRE Short Block Performance 347
    AFR-195 top end kit, TrickFlow Trackmax hydraulic roller stage 2 cam
    Autotec -5cc flat top pistons
    Canton Racing 1/2" steel main girdle
    block paint
    Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap
    Holley Sniper EFI, HyperSpark ignition system
    March Pulley System, with alternator and AC compressor

    Milestones (will be edited as more happen):

    Canadian kit Ordered: August 20, 2018
    Canadian Completion kit ordered: August 30, 2018
    Engine components ordered: August 30, 2018
    Kit Ready at FFR: October 6, 2018
    Canadian Completion kit received: October 12, 2018
    Stewart Pickup at FFR: October 17, 2018
    Pickup kit at Border: November 4, 2018
    Engine short block and components received: November 6, 2018
    Build school: November 9-11, 2018
    Large # of back order parts received: November 30, 2018
    Horns received: December 6, 2018 (still missing hardtop glass)
    First Start: April 30, 2019
    Last POL part received: July 2, 2019
    Go Cart: September 28, 2019
    VIN Application submitted: September 14, 2020
    VIN Received: October 7, 2020
    Inspection & Weight: October 15, 2020
    Registration, Plates & Insurance: October 16, 2020
    Paint scheduled: February 2021
    Paint complete & returned home from shop: 10 June 2021
    Last edited by FF33rod; 06-10-2021 at 05:57 PM.

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    To prove something is in the works, here's a pic of the assembled Willwood hat and rotor along with the tranny and Boyd gas tank.IMG_2396a.jpgIMG_2398a.jpgIMG_2305a.jpg

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Welcome fellow Canuck!! I had bought my engine nearly three years in advance and tinkered with it until i got my kit last year. Good luck and don't give yourself a deadline just goals, just enjoy your build!

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Definitely won't be in a rush, I don't want something that will look like it was thrown together. However, when I'm excited about a project I do tend to immerse myself I've been following your build thread, keep up the great work!

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    You will certainly be pleased when everything arrives....Good luck!!!!

  7. #6
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Got a new tool in the mail and tried my hand at safety wiring tonight. Not bad for a first attempt I think.

    IMG_2408a.jpg

    Safety Wire full rotor.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Got a new tool in the mail and tried my hand at safety wiring tonight. Not bad for a first attempt I think.

    IMG_2408a.jpg

    Safety Wire full rotor.jpg
    Looks great!

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    1104 is home

    Rented a pickup and trailer and dropped below the border to meet Scott from Stewart Transport. As you can see, I got the full FFR signage experience. Scott was fantastic. He's been doing this for years and has all sorts of FFR stories. Friendly as heck and knows what to stick where for easy transport home. A great experience....

    IMG_2696a.jpg

    IMG_2701a.jpg

    IMG_2703a.jpg

    My Darling wife came to help out. I'm such a lucky guy to have a partner that lets me indulge....
    IMG_2704a.jpg

    IMG_2706a.jpg

    Safe at home...
    IMG_2415a.jpg

    and now inventory begins..

    BUILD/INVENTORY TIP: I read somewhere that before removing the aluminum floors, etc from the frame (as delivered by FFR) you should use a marker and outline where all the frame pieces are and this will save time later when you go to drill the rivet holes. My recommendation - DO NOT DO THIS. I did do that and drilled the holes accordingly. Unfortunately, when FFR puts the floor pieces in for delivery none of the firewall pieces are in place and so the floor is not accurately positioned at that time. I found that floor was about 0.5" different when I went to install it and I had to change the rivet locations. Now I have some unwanted holes in the floor I need to seal.
    Last edited by FF33rod; 07-02-2019 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Added inventory tip

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    Steve

    Good to see you had a good weather day to pick up. Off to the races now.

    Have fun

    Bob

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    Hi Steve,
    We received #1102 in Kirkland before Scott drove to Blaine. Really great guy.
    How is the quality of your hard top? Mine looks like crap! Seams are not joined in places, and I put my finger thru the gelcoat near the back window. It's really rough.

    Chris

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Chris, the top actually doesn't look to bad from what I can tell. Some parts of the door shells are a bit rough though - where they are bonding the 2 pieces together, not consistent. I'm sure I'll eventually find some gel coat inconsistencies, there's bound to be air pockets in some places. That's what filler is for

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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Chris, the top actually doesn't look to bad from what I can tell. Some parts of the door shells are a bit rough though - where they are bonding the 2 pieces together, not consistent. I'm sure I'll eventually find some gel coat inconsistencies, there's bound to be air pockets in some places. That's what filler is for
    This is what mine looks like:IMG_20181112_000040287.jpgIMG_20181112_004027261.jpgIMG_20181112_004058764.jpgIMG_20181112_004108744.jpg
    My first upload attempt. Hope I did it right...
    The holes along the bottom exterior, I put my finger thru. Found them by accident.
    There is also gaps/failed bond along the windshield and back window openings.
    Waiting to hear what F5 has to say.
    Last edited by Chris C; 11-15-2018 at 03:35 AM.

  18. #13
    Ol Skool
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    This is what mine looks like:IMG_20181112_000040287.jpgIMG_20181112_004027261.jpgIMG_20181112_004058764.jpgIMG_20181112_004108744.jpg
    My first upload attempt. Hope I did it right...
    The holes along the bottom exterior, I put my finger thru. Found them by accident.
    There is also gaps/failed bond along the windshield and back window openings.
    Waiting to hear what F5 has to say.
    That is definitely a QC miss. That is just a headache in so many ways to unscrew. FFR needs to replace that. Remember that roof has to anchor and align with the body.

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    Steve, looks like you're as lucky a man as me to have a beautiful wife who let's you play with great big hot wheels!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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    Scott was my Stewart deliver man also. Sure gets around,,,I am here in SoCal, Inland Empire. He was an absolute Peach of a guy. Very friendly and helpful. WE dropped the chassis and body in back of my F150, took to my rear garage and set in place on jack stands. One trip for boxes and one for misc fiberglass parts, top, fenders etc. 3 Trips and done. Less than an hour he was off to San Diego. Pick up at F5 and travel time to west coast took a while BUT delivery was easy peasy. Thx again Scott.

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    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    Congrats!
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  24. #17
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Well Santa came again today. I think I've tapped him out and I'm not expecting anything for Christmas now... All the engine components arrived.
    Garage is darn full now.

    IMG_2422a.jpg

    Key components are a TRE performance 347 short block with -5cc flat tops and main girdle with an AFR 195cc Renegade top end kit. All this stuff just gives me goose bumps!

    IMG_2432a.jpg

    IMG_2429a.jpg

    IMG_2424a.jpg

  25. #18
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Hi Chris
    Yeah Scott was a gem. I haven't looked at the hard top yet (or much else for that matter) as I was pretty busy at work last week and this past weekend I was at the build school. Just making my way home now. Will have a look at it in the next couple of days and report back. Cheers.

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    Chris,
    I'd make Factory Five pick all this crap up and deliver all new fiberglass.
    This is totally unacceptable in my book.

    Bob

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    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dodgeman View Post
    Chris,
    I'd make Factory Five pick all this crap up and deliver all new fiberglass.
    This is totally unacceptable in my book.

    Bob
    I think I would have to agree with Bob...a few thin spots here and there seem to be expected, but not to that extreme. Any kind of quality control at all would have caught that!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Looks horrible Chris, going to check mine extra careful again now. Almost looks like it was dropped or hit. Hopefully F5R takes care of you.

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    I sent the pics to F5 on monday. Haven't heard back yet. I'm glad you guys don't think I'm overreacting. I'm no fiberglass expert, but this looks terrible from any angle.
    I looked at the rest of the glass, and it looks like what people have described. The only other damage I see is one end of the waterfall? looks broken off. No idea how this fits, so I don't know if it's a problem.waterfall left.jpgwaterfall right.jpg

  31. #23
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    I sent the pics to F5 on monday. Haven't heard back yet. I'm glad you guys don't think I'm overreacting. I'm no fiberglass expert, but this looks terrible from any angle.
    I looked at the rest of the glass, and it looks like what people have described. The only other damage I see is one end of the waterfall? looks broken off. No idea how this fits, so I don't know if it's a problem.waterfall left.jpgwaterfall right.jpg
    Both sides of my water fall look like your left one. Both are squared off. Looks like the one on the right hand side has been dropped and broken.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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    I heard back from FFR this morning. Here's what they suggested:
    "As for the damaged hardtop, after speaking with my manager, he wanted me to ask and offer for you to have fixed, re-glassed, and Factory Five will pay for the bill to fix the end/opening towards the front and back lip where broke away as previously sent in pictures. You should be able to bring and/or send pictures to a body shop and they should be able to quote you on adding material to both damaged sections."

    I'm not sure how I feel about this. How will a shop know what to add where, if they don't have a body to fit it to? Will I just be adding or grinding glass when it comes time to fit the top, or paying to have someone go over the repaired areas anyway?
    What do you guys think?
    They obviously don't want to ship me a new top.

    Chris

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    I'd tell them that it is unacceptable, and ship me a new undamaged top and waterfall.

    Bob

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    FFR need to replace the top and waterfall. I would keep trying. If FFR does not send you a new top I thank we the builders all need to step in encourage FFR to do so I'm welling to do my part.

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  38. #27

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    "he wanted me to ask and offer for you to have fixed"

    As written, that seems fair enough - they're just asking if that's a deal you'll take. I'm sure it's fine to say no. For example, I'm permanently bonding my top, so maybe there'd be a deal to work out. But yours is pretty far gone - I'd ask for a replacement.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    All right, we have an update on my build - inventory is done!!! woohoo.
    All the stuff they said was there, was there and the stuff they said was missing was indeed missing.
    Only issue was the rear view mirror was broken. However, it doesn't look like something I would have used anyway.

    Stay tuned - I've started the engine build and will post some pics soon...

    Steve
    Last edited by FF33rod; 11-18-2018 at 11:33 PM.

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  42. #29
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    Excellent!
    Mine was good less some bolts/nuts and my headlight housings were crushed. And of course the top...
    Sorry for steeling your thread by the way. Figure I'll update after they reply on monday if you don't mind.
    And you're not kidding about that mirror. What a piece of junk! Surprised they would include something so poorly designed/made.

    Chris
    Last edited by Chris C; 11-18-2018 at 09:57 PM.

  43. #30
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    Ok, last update hopefully so I don't steel any more of Steve's build thread. I should try and figure out how to do one myself.
    Nate the production manager texted me saying that a new hand picked top and waterfall will be on the next truck heading this way (I'm guessing it might be a while). He contacted me personally when the original pickup date was missed due to not coming back from powder coating in time. My day just got better

    Curious, did any of you receive an entire box of brochures with your kit? I got a box of at least 50, all the same.

    Thank you all for your advise.

    Chris

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  45. #31
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post

    Curious, did any of you receive an entire box of brochures with your kit? I got a box of at least 50, all the same.

    Thank you all for your advise.

    Chris
    I did as well...I use them as coasters in my shop. I understand the intent, but by the time my car is in shows the Next Generation on everything will probably be out! I guess it stills stirs the interest, right? Sales ABC...Always Be Closing!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

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  47. #32
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    Chris, congrats on getting your kit. The fun now begins.
    Glad to hear your getting a new top and waterfall.
    Yes, I also got a box of brochures. I'm sure that are intended for you to hand out when you bring your Hotrod to car shows.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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  49. #33
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    But seriously, advertising brochures? I got those dumb things too. I'm astounded that after popping well over 20K USD they can't throw in a hat. A hat is all of $10.... That would be the best advertising.

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  51. #34
    Junior Member idoxlr8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    But seriously, advertising brochures? I got those dumb things too. I'm astounded that after popping well over 20K USD they can't throw in a hat. A hat is all of $10.... That would be the best advertising.
    Knew I’d find you here.👍
    I’ll sell you my FFR hat for $8.50cdn.

  52. #35
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idoxlr8 View Post
    Knew I’d find you here.��
    I’ll sell you my FFR hat for $8.50cdn.
    What a deal! you're such a great friend Dean...

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  54. #36
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    TRE Performance 347 Short block with -5cc flat top forged pistons, Trickflow Stage 2 roller cam
    IMG_2519a.jpg
    IMG_2524a.jpg
    Bottom end with main girdle
    IMG_2517a.jpg
    AFR 195cc head, 58cc combustion chamber
    IMG_2527a.jpg
    Add some jewelry on top, Comp Cams Ultra Gold ARC series
    IMG_2536a.jpg
    IMG_2538a.jpg

    I've added the timing chain cover and water pump and tried to start adding the pulley system but there's one or two bolts that don't seem the right size so I'll be stalled for a couple of days...

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    General update and thoughts this Saturday 24 November
    This week I emailed Tony at FFR and he confirmed that 18 x 11 with 6 inch backspace and 18 x 9 with 5.5 inch backspace works. Let's hope he's right!

    I've discovered that cast wheels are more reasonably priced than forged. I narrowed it down to Foose Knuckle or Coupe. I ended up ordering the Foose Coupe F238 locally. I sure hope it works. I don't think the fronts will be an issue but worse case I may end up with a spacer on the rears, we'll see.

    I took a trip down to the US border today to pick up some tires. I bought some BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S through Tire Rack, couldn't find a source in Canada. 315/30R18s for the rear and 245/40R18s for the front. Man I hope it works.

    So far, I've managed to complete inventory and then I started building the engine. It's been a bit frustrating - with every step I have to go buy something else. I bought 90% of the parts from TRE performance in Californ-eye-aye. I told them I wanted a turnkey package. Hasn't worked out that way. Have no bolt kit for the intake, have no bolt kit for the oil pump and oil pickup, have no bolts for the oil pan.... �� I keep trying to remind myself that patience is a virtue.

    This afternoon I tried to kick off the build on the chassis. I'm missing steering components, shocks,.... Decided to start on the IRS. Hammered the studs out of the hub, cut off a small portion of the new studs for clearance, and.... I have no lug nut to pull the new studs onto the hub. I have no 5/8" drill to modify the spindles... Decided to have a drink, patience is a virtue...

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    IRS center section install

    The build has moved along not bad this week. Have managed to spend an hour or two every evening and made some decent progress. Feeling good.

    Work on the IRS: Got the new lug nuts in place. Cut off the appropriate "tab" of the spindles. Got the upper and lower control arms out and greased, along with the toe adjustment arm.
    BUILD TIP:Here's a cool tip we learned at the build school. The polyurethane bushings have small slots in them to allow grease to spread along the length of the bushing. Before installing, cut small shallow slots on the outer flange in line with the inner ones to allow the grease to travel to the sides. You can do this with a hack saw blade or I used a dremel lightly.

    IMG_2557a.jpg

    As others have found, getting the IRS center section in place was challenging. Actually getting it into position wasn't that big of a deal, I did it myself with a floor jack and a lot of grunting. Also used a ratcheting strap to help support it while getting the mounting holes lined up and bolts into place. 3 out of the 4 bolts weren't too bad but the last one took me a long time. It was off by a significant amount and so I tried all sorts of things to get it lined up better - loosening the other bolts, ratchet straps, mallet,...

    One of the things they mentioned in build school was a drift punch is helpful in getting holes to line up so of course I bought one of those and tried it too... no luck, the drift puch was just a little too small to be helpful. So I decided to get a section of appropriate sized metal rod and taper the end - essentially making my own custom sized drift punch.
    IMG_2556a.jpg

    Well the only rod I could find locally/quickly was aluminum and as you might guess it was too soft. BUT in the process of fiddling with that, the metal bushing in the mount came out part way and finally a light went on in my head. Without the bushing there, there was more wiggle room for the bolt to push into the mount - so I left the bushing half out, pushed in the bolt, gave it a few friendly taps and eureka... there was enough of the bolt into the differential mount tab to do the job, I think I used a socket on the bolt head to thread it in and pull everything together. The solution was so obvious but took a long time to come me.
    Last edited by FF33rod; 12-02-2018 at 12:13 AM.

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  60. #39
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Last week I started adding the March pulley system to the engine I'm building up. The timing chain cover and water pump use bolts that are integral part of the pulley system so you have to put the whole assembly together at once even though I'd like to leave off the shiny bits until later in the build in case they get scratched up. I guess I'll put a bunch of tape over them to protect it. However, as I started to put the system together it didn't seem like there was enough of the right sized bolts in the kit and I had to order more online. I finally got those bolts and got the system together.

    IMG_2551a.jpg

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  62. #40
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    Make sure to use long release time tape or it will be a bear to get it off/.

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