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Thread: #1104 (Gen1) Steve's 33 Rod Build - door panels

  1. #121
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    Make sure to use long release time tape or it will be a bear to get it off/.

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Just for the record, here's the reason why I had to add a fair bit of fiberglass to the top of the driver's door. After lining up the half moon trim on the door with the body, the top sat far too low and interfered with the door jam....

    IMG_3276a.jpg
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Trunk hinges - without accessing trunk space

    So without thinking, sometime ago I closed up the access holes in the trunk shelf that would supposedly give access to the trunk hinges and allow to mark up where they attach to the lid. I say supposedly because I'm a bit skeptical that I could have put my arm up through there with the IRS and rear exhaust installed. In any case, here's what I came up with to mark the location, worked great....

    1. Install hinges and brackets for the trunk. Make sure the brackets are in the middle of their adjustment range
    2. Take a piece of paper a bit bigger than the bracket that attaches to the lid and take a small piece of masking tape to hold it in place on top of the bracket.
    3. Carefully trace the bracket details onto the backside of the paper
    4. Attach double sided sticky tape on the top side of the paper
    5. Put the trunk lid in place and then push each hinge (from passenger compartment side) so they rotate and press the double sided tape and paper against the underside of the trunk lid.
    6. Remove the lid and you have your bracket template stuck in the correct spot.... proceed with drilling and placing in rivnuts...

    IMG_3335a.jpg IMG_3338a.jpg

    Worked well
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

  5. #124
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Continuing with the body work - new tail lights

    Been continuing to grind down the mold flash on the body and hard top. Also been leveling out the cowl and rear deck.

    IMG_3319a.jpg IMG_3323a.jpg IMG_3324a.jpg

    I wanted something different for tail lights. I had thought I'd put in some flush lights from Hagan but decided that was going to be a bit too much work and I'm already doing a lot more fiberglassing than I had imagined. But I'm pleased with how these turned out.

    IMG_3336a.jpg IMG_3339a.jpg
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  7. #125
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    Tail lights look good. I'm at about your stage too. Boy this body takes a lot of fitting and trimming

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  9. #126
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Trunk reinforcing - Kottenai Valley gas strut and reinforcement kit

    For the past couple of weeks I've been back and forth on various body parts fitting, trimming, staring, scratching my head and general fiddling. With the exception of the driver's door, I think I'm making progress.

    CAUTION: 1/4" Rivet Nuts aren't correct 1/4" rivnuts are included in the kit BUT they are sized appropriately for being installed in quite thin material. The hood and trunk areas where the rivnuts are installed seem to be about 0.2" thick - glass plus metal - so the included rivnuts will not install properly and likely to pull out easily. I've ordered different ones that are for thicker material...

    Part of what I've been working on is the trunk and to make things a bit more robust I'm putting in Kootenai Valley's gas strut and reinforcement kit. Quite straight forward and really like how it's firmed up both the trunk and the rear sill where the latch attaches. Before fitting and epoxying these in place I had to make sure that the curvatures were correct. Taking the pieces that embed in the trunk, I held them up to the trunk opening on the body and found they were darn near perfect. For the rear sill reinforcement, I had to cut about 3.5" off each end and then reduce the overall curvature somewhat to get it close to the curvature of the bottom of the trunk and the rear sill. As the instructions say, it doesn't need to be perfect as the panel bond can take care of the imperfections. Also drilled 1/4" holes on the side of the rear sill reinforcement to allow panel bond to enter and help with the overall bond with the body.

    Here's a few process shots...
    Cut out a slot in the inner panel for the steel reinforcement.

    IMG_3364a.jpg

    You need to grind away some excess bonding material on the inside to get the steel piece to fit properly. Note that once you cut these slots, the shape of the trunk is easily changed. Not shown, I used straps to hold it at the right curvature while the panel bond cured.

    IMG_3364b.jpg

    Used EverCoat panel bond to epoxy the reinforcements in place and then filled in with Everglass. Will add Rage Gold later to finish off...

    IMG_3369a.jpg IMG_3371a.jpg

    Used the same panel bond to put the rear sill reinforcement in place. May add some fiberglass to help hold it there but that panel bond is strong stuff, don't think it's going anywhere...

    IMG_3368a.jpg
    Last edited by FF33rod; 01-20-2020 at 02:55 PM.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  11. #127
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    As long as you're working on that area, I always suggest to customers that they glass in some 3/4" ( or so ) fiberglass plugs in the area between the the inner and outer skin for the trunk and hood. This give a physical connection between the inner and outer skins. This reduces panel vibration and some some minor strength ans some stiffness. Just a thought .....

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  13. #128
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    We added the strength of the installation by using fasteners on the outer skin, then glassed over them

    Seq-2b.jpgIMG_2520.jpgIMG_2523.jpgSeq-2a.jpgSeq-2f.jpgSeq-2h.jpgSeq-2l.jpg
    Last edited by wrp; 01-21-2020 at 12:22 AM.

  14. #129
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Nose cone/chin fitting & rework

    Been working on a few different aspects of the body in the last few weeks - doors, hard top, engine side panels, hood, chin... I find it beneficial to do a bit of work in one of these areas and then leave it for a bit, when you go back to it you kind of have fresh eyes and different perspective. Stops me from getting impatient and rushing to finish a specific thing. That said, it can create a huge mess in the garage with having multiple things on the go

    Today I'm going to update the work I've been doing on the "chin" (or nose cone). There's interaction between it, engine side panels, hood, grill and the body rocker panels that extend forward. So before messing with the chin, one has to decide on the correct position to attach the body rocker panel extension to the frame - this is what the majority of the engine side panel sits on. Note I believe Gen 2 is different in this area. So to attach the rocker panel to the frame at the forward position I was concerned about 2 things - making sure both sides were the same distance off the ground (they were) and where to drill the hole in the fiberglass as there is some lateral (in/out) adjustment that you can do.

    Shown in this pic is where the rocker would end up if I drilled the hole in a spot that allowed it to be the furthest out. The straight edge is resting on the side of the rocker panel at the firewall end and the other end is on the inner flange of the grill where the engine side panel and chin attaches. Note that the rocker is not far enough out (about 1/2" off as I recall). Since I don't want a "wow" in the rocker or side panel I had to extend the chassis attachment point further out with a piece of steel.

    IMG_3359a.jpg

    With the rocker now in the right position, I moved forward with fitting the chin - it was far too wide and hung well below the grill. Bottom line, I had to cut it in half and figure out how much material to take out. The following pic shows it after the it's been cut and the 2 pieces have been temporarily attached to the rocker and the side of the grill.

    IMG_3428a.jpg

    After some marking, cutting, sanding and tweaking I finally got to a point where the two halves were working well together and needed to be rejoined. To do that, I drilled a couple of holes at the front and back of each half, to hold it in the right position while I fiberglassed it back together. The cuts that you see I did to help make the part more pliable and form to the front of the grill during fitting. Once I'm happy with the fit of the adjusted part I'll likely fiberglass over those to help with strength and hold the new form better.

    IMG_3432a.jpg IMG_3434a.jpg

    I still will put another couple of layers on it before unscrewing it and making sure it fits (fingers crossed). You may notice that I have cut away some of the glass in the center-rear of the chin, the piece that sits under the lower radiator hose. That's because with the new size and shape of the chin it would have been hitting the hose so I've cut it away.

    Will hopefully get this part finished up this weekend.

    Steve
    Last edited by FF33rod; 01-31-2020 at 09:53 PM.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  16. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Been working on a few different aspects of the body in the last few weeks - doors, hard top, engine side panels, hood, chin... I find it beneficial to do a bit of work in one of these areas and then leave it for a bit, when you go back to it you kind of have fresh eyes and different perspective. Stops me from getting impatient and rushing to finish a specific thing. That said, it can create a huge mess in the garage with having multiple things on the go

    Today I'm going to update the work I've been doing on the "chin" (or nose cone). There's interaction between it, engine side panels, hood, grill and the body rocker panels that extend forward. So before messing with the chin, one has to decide on the correct position to attach the body rocker panel extension to the frame - this is what the majority of the engine side panel sits on. Note I believe Gen 2 is different in this area. So to attach the rocker panel to the frame at the forward position I was concerned about 2 things - making sure both sides were the same distance off the ground (they were) and where to drill the hole in the fiberglass as there is some lateral (in/out) adjustment that you can do.

    Shown in this pic is where the rocker would end up if I drilled the hole in a spot that allowed it to be the furthest out. The straight edge is resting on the side of the rocker panel near the panel and the other end is on the inner flange of the grill where the engine side panel and chin attaches. Note that the rocker is not far enough out (about 1/2" off as I recall). Since I don't want a "wow" in the rocker or side panel I had to extend the chassis attachment point further out with a piece of steel.

    IMG_3359a.jpg

    With the rocker now in the right position, I moved forward with fitting the chin - it was far too wide and hung well below the grill. Bottom line, I had to cut it in half and figure out how much material to take out. The following pic shows it after the it's been cut and the 2 pieces have been temporarily attached to the rocker and the side of the grill.

    IMG_3428a.jpg

    After some marking, cutting, sanding and tweaking I finally got to a point where the two halves were working well together and needed to be rejoined. To do that, I drilled a couple of holes at the front and back of each half, to hold it in the right position while I fiberglassed it back together. The cuts that you see I did to help make the part more pliable and form to the front of the grill during fitting. Once I'm happy with the fit of the adjusted part I'll likely fiberglass over those to help with strength and hold the new form better.

    IMG_3432a.jpg IMG_3434a.jpg

    I still will put another couple of layers on it before unscrewing it and making sure it fits (fingers crossed). You may notice that I have cut away some of the glass in the center-rear of the chin, the piece that sits under the lower radiator hose. That's because with the new size and shape of the chin it would have been hitting the hose so I've cut it away.

    Will hopefully get this part finished up this weekend.

    Steve
    Nice job Steve

    As we figured out earlier today I am figuring out the same issue. I did do the engine side panels and hood previously and decided to wait on the nose cone. I will have to do the same and cut the middle out of the nose cone although not as much as you according to the pics. With all the builders assembling or approaching assembly/fabrication a little different and variation in the shape and size of panels we are receiving every build becomes unique.

    IMG_5923.jpg

  17. #131
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Chin completed

    Bob, that isn't that bad but just enough to be annoying I'm sure.

    Finished up the rough in of mine yesterday and today. Looks so much better....

    IMG_3442a.jpg

    Small gap that some filler will help with, but overall I'm happy

    IMG_3444a.jpg
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

  18. #132
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Engine Side Panel vents

    Had a bit of fun today with some customization. Pretty pleased with how it's looking!

    IMG_3446a.jpg
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  20. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Had a bit of fun today with some customization. Pretty pleased with how it's looking!

    IMG_3446a.jpg
    Those turned out sharp Steve!
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  21. #134
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    Very Nice!

  22. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Had a bit of fun today with some customization. Pretty pleased with how it's looking!

    IMG_3446a.jpg
    Like it!
    33 HotRod #1142
    Started 5-9-19
    Kingwood, Texas

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    vents look great

    Did you manage to get them functional.

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    yes, no problem. There is a separate plate at the end held in place with just 2 "indents" of the surrounding metal. Couple of touches with the dremel and they're out... Need to fabricate a simple bracket for each to hold them in
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  27. #138
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    More doors!

    So after messing around with the doors for weeks (or maybe it was months) they got tossed. The inner shell was too low and too far forward when it was bonded to the outer shell. In the end, the bottom of both doors hit the door sill on the body and was still sticking out too far. So FFR sent me 2 Gen 2 doors. The curvature of the Gen 2 door is slightly different but with a bit of body work I don't think anyone will notice. The Gen 1 door frame bits fit them just fine. However, the doors still required a lot of work. The top of the inner shell is lower than that of the outer shell AND the inside of the door did not line up with the dash curvature. But at least the door fit halfways decent with the body.

    IMG_3465a.jpg IMG_3462a.jpg

    So after a couple of weeks mucking about with HSRF etc I'm finally starting to feel good about it.

    IMG_3505a.jpg IMG_3506a.jpg

    Still requires some finessing but looks one heck of a lot better than the original pieces.

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  29. #139
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    Looks good! How did you flatten the seam on top?
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Brute force - ground down the raised bits and then a layer of Everglass followed by Rage Gold.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

  31. #141
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    I've got the same problem with the door to dash fit, your 2nd pic.
    I've already ground both surfaces down and need to do a lot more, then re-fiber glass it.
    Put the front fenders on yesterday, the curvature is way off.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  32. #142
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    I had to do the same reshaping at the cowl to door. seems that's very common. I used evercoat everglass in areas like those prone to chipping.
    Luckily, my body is almost done (probably have 150 hrs including mostly fitting panels). Just working onto the waterfall, which WAIT, PAUSE.... doesn't fit very well just like everything else.

    IMG_20200229_101250080.jpg
    IMG_20200308_124222619.jpg

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Rear Cockpit cover

    With a little bit of trimming, the rear cockpit cover (aka waterfall) fell into place. Using 10-32 rivnuts to hold in place. Quite pleased with the fit around the door (fills up the hinged area) and is pretty close to blending into the door sill. Will probably put another bolt/rivnut down in that area to hold it snug.

    IMG_3509a.jpg IMG_3510a.jpg

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  36. #144
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    Looking Good!

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    Fender Mania

    Shaping and filling various body parts and panels is tedious. Seems to go on forever and every once in awhile you stand back and can finally see a bit of progress. Been focused on the fenders the last week or so and that has shown more instant gratification.

    So, I have the FFR bike fenders. I chose 315/30R18 rears and 245/40R18 fronts. Both of those have a diameter of around 25.5". The front bike fenders barely fit on these!!! I guess it depends on how much of the fender you want to use but you'll see from the pics below that I wanted a fairly full fender so it would go low at the rear to stop rocks and crap kicking up on the body and also wanted it to come over the top and down the front a bit. It appears that the front bike fender is about a 27" diameter at the fullest (middle) point. So to get the wheel centered in the fender (in order to figure out where to drill the holes in the fender for the fender mount) here is what I did - placed 2 spacers at different spots on the tire and then rested the fender on top.

    IMG_3499a.jpg

    Taped the fender against the mount and then marked and drilled the holes. I gotta say that I totally lucked out with the centering of the tire in the fender - used the standard spacers that came in the kit and used a 5.5" backspace on the front 9" wide wheel. Bonus!

    IMG_3500a.jpg

    Okay, so having a fender that's barely larger than the diameter of your tire means that you can't have much of a side lip if you want to be able to change the tire without taking the fender off! Another interdependency that showed up that I hadn't thought of is the size of the brake calipers relative to the wheel. I have the upgraded Wilwood brakes, 6 piston fronts, and although the wheels seem to clear them no problem when they are in place, just wait until you try to put the wheel into a tight fender with those suckers in there! In the end, I decided on a 24.75" diameter opening on the fender. I cut a template out of corrugated plastic and used that to mark the fender and then trimmed it. I can say that I can just barely get the tire in place with that opening. I may open it up a little bit more yet.

    IMG_3536a.jpg

    Used the profile of an ellipse to shape the leading edge of the front fender

    IMG_3540a.jpg IMG_3541a.jpg

    I think I'm pretty pleased with how that turned out!

    Rear fenders - good luck trying to get the rear fender in place using the method shown in the manual. It's impossible to use a jack and a 2x4 to press it in place, the angles just don't work and the 2x4 keeps ejecting itself, at least with the IRS. In the end I got wife to help hold it along with a couple of clamps. So far I've trimmed the rear of the fender, but haven't quite decided how I'm going to trim the front end of the rear fender yet.

    IMG_3545a.jpg IMG_3546a.jpg

    I'm liking it! Man I want to just get in and go cruising....
    Last edited by FF33rod; 03-25-2020 at 09:11 PM.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  39. #146
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    We went pretty low on my fenders and only a motorcycle chain thickness off the tire. I only have about 800 miles on the car and have already had peppering on the front of the rear fender. Have thought about installing a sweep strip to drag the ground on the rear of the fronts, but if it ever got caught or tangled it would likely rip the entire fender off. If I really took my time or had a second set of hands, I could probably get my tires off without removing the fenders (front), but every time I have had them off so far, I have removed the fenders (only four bolts on my set-up though). I finally ended up adding Paint Protection Film to all of the fenders (front & rear). Able to drive with a little more piece of mind.

    Your build looks awesome!


    Front Fend.jpg
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  40. #147
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Power Windows

    So I've ended up with Gen2 doors for Gen 1 kit. They seem to fit fine and the Gen2 was better quality for sure. At the same time thought it would be a good idea to use the gen2 window trim pieces that sit on the top of the door. So here's the beginning....
    Fitted the weatherstrip around the edge

    IMG_3564a.jpg

    Marked and cut the hole per the instructions (it appears that these need to be enlarged per PeterH experience...

    IMG_3567a.jpg IMG_3568a.jpg

    Pulled out the aluminum trip pieces to start fitment and found that I have 2 of the same for the driver's side and an identical 2 for the opposite side - can't even come up with right combo for one side, Sigh....

    IMG_3566a.jpg
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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    Steve

    Did FFR send you new felt with the aluminum for the window to cut out in door, the felt for the Gen 1 goes onto the horizontal edge of the door cut out and the aluminum edge would be vertical like the glass.

    Do you have instructions for the installation, not sure what the thinking is for securing the aluminum to the fiberglass.


    Bob

  42. #149
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bgardner View Post
    Steve

    Did FFR send you new felt with the aluminum for the window to cut out in door, the felt for the Gen 1 goes onto the horizontal edge of the door cut out and the aluminum edge would be vertical like the glass.

    Do you have instructions for the installation, not sure what the thinking is for securing the aluminum to the fiberglass.


    Bob
    Hey Bob, yes new felt came with the Gen2 trim, different profile as you suggest so that it mounts properly. Give Tony an email, FFR seems to be sending small things out at least. I got the last couple of trim pieces to make a proper set. I'll send you the Gen2 manual by email. Installation of the trim is covered on page 513. Basically once the window is positioned right and at the right angle, you fit the aluminum trim accordingly (opening has to be a lot wider than the 7/8" mentioned in the manual). Then I'm going to have to trim the outer shape of the trim to look proper on the door (it goes to the edge in some spots, not in others). Then you hold in place by drilling holes and using flathead bolts - all the manual says actually is "bolt the trim pieces to the top of the door", doesn't have a pic, doesn't say what size,....
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

  43. #150
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Hey Bob, yes new felt came with the Gen2 trim, different profile as you suggest so that it mounts properly. Give Tony an email, FFR seems to be sending small things out at least. I got the last couple of trim pieces to make a proper set. I'll send you the Gen2 manual by email. Installation of the trim is covered on page 513. Basically once the window is positioned right and at the right angle, you fit the aluminum trim accordingly (opening has to be a lot wider than the 7/8" mentioned in the manual). Then I'm going to have to trim the outer shape of the trim to look proper on the door (it goes to the edge in some spots, not in others). Then you hold in place by drilling holes and using flathead bolts - all the manual says actually is "bolt the trim pieces to the top of the door", doesn't have a pic, doesn't say what size,....
    Have you got any pics of the felt and have your tried to install one side possibly? I am making new ones with 3/4x3/4x1/16" thick aluminum channel with with felts I bought online, it would be interesting to see how your setting this up to possibly give me some better ideas. much appreciated!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  44. #151
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    These new aluminum pieces appear like they will do a better job but as far as finishing the top of the door it's a real head scratcher. Not sure if I want to blend in (need to add fill underneath them at a minimum. Maybe powdercoat in a color to blend in with the car? or silver to match other trim? Fillet the edges? So many decisions!!!
    For cutting the holes, just use the door, not much point in referring to to top since the hole is so large and the trim pieces cover most of the door top.
    - Peterh226 #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
    Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

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  46. #152
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I have the Gen I and I used Dan Ruth's angle pieces, which are similar to what you have shown in your pic (no added hook flange on the end). We ended up drilling holes in the aluminum, placing underneat the fiberglass and panel bonding through holes to the fiberglass. Then used an extreme 3M adhesive to attach the wipe. We installed on both inside and outside and honestly that was a bit too much at first. Very tight on the window and caused issues moving up and down. Works fine now, but really didn't need to add the inner piece.

    Sorry, the attached photos are the best I have with me right now...

    IMG_7561.jpg

    IMG_7632.jpg
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Will this be the last of the wiring?

    I got to the point where a number of things that I wanted to do required some wiring to be completed under the body, needed to take the doors apart to get the power window components in there, needed power window wiring completed,... So, all the body components were taken off and I'm back to chassis only again. The intention is to build it up this time so everything is totally functional and will either get it legal or do the final prep for a body shop.

    With the body off, I finished fitting and wiring the gauges and added the AC/heat vents to the sides. For the wiring, I took out the wires that weren't needed and shortened up numerous others. Still need to secure the indicator light wiring a bit better

    IMG_3592a.jpg IMG_3596a.jpg

    Finished off the wiring around the tranny tunnel to get ready for a center console. The wire bundle going towards the rear is for the power window switches and the bundle more forward are for the stereo. Still need to figure out how clean up that ball of wire that will be behind the dash.

    IMG_3607a.jpg

    Lastly, I needed to add switches to the doors to activate courtesy lights and also needed to add a relay for the door popper on each side (negative activation pulse comes from the Digital Guard Dawg PBS-II system). This pic shows the wiring on the driver's side.

    IMG_3636a.jpg IMG_3636_annotated.jpg

    Steve
    Last edited by FF33rod; 02-14-2021 at 01:12 PM.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  49. #154
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Center Console

    Didn't have confidence to build my own center console and have it turn out half ways decent. Quite a few of you have done an excellent job for sure.

    Here is the bare console, naturally it is overly large so it can be custom fit into different vehicles.

    IMG_3602a.jpg

    Starting to get fitted over the tunnel, cutout at rear for power window switches

    IMG_3620a.jpg

    Lovin' the way this is starting to look! The top of the console will need to be trimmed to fit with the bottom of the dash.

    IMG_3632a.jpg IMG_3633a.jpg IMG_3639a.jpg

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  51. #155
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    That's a nice console Steve! Where did you get that?
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  52. #156
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    looks like you got good taste in music

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  54. #157
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    Super nice console!
    16+ FFR kits and counting!

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  56. #158
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    I like that console! Where did you pick that up?

  57. #159
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    That's a nice console Steve! Where did you get that?
    Thanks, I fell in love with it and hadn't seen anyone else use it although that's hard to believe. I like somewhat unique things (so no one else get one!!!)
    I rolled the dice and got lucky. This is from a company with a VERY bad reputation. Has taken lots of money and not delivered. The product is top notch, if you get it. He is using paypal now so I thought that was a bit of insurance and gave it a try. It was promised to ship in a week and it didn't. A week after that and more promises I stopped getting any information back from him in response to my emails and phone calls. Dead silence. A shipping label was created at one point but nothing handed over to the shipping company for over a week. Finally something shipped (5 or 6 weeks in) and I was praying it wasn't a rock. Thankfully, it wasn't. Google these guys and you'll see all sorts of complaints and stories. Numerous complaints to BBB. So with that buyer beware!!! Modern Classics Interiors. Note that the order status page on the web site is bogus, hasn't changed for months. Edit 28 Aug 2020: order status page seems to be changing/updated now, not sure how accurate it is obviously.
    Last edited by FF33rod; 08-28-2020 at 03:54 PM.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  59. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by sread View Post
    looks like you got good taste in music
    I agree, nice console too.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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