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Thread: Ride Height

  1. #1
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Ride Height

    The manual states that the ride height in the front is 4.5" in the front and 5" in the rear. It then states measured from ground to chassis. Is that at the chassis box or the lowest point of the chassis at the front of the car and the highest point of the chassis at the rear of the car?

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    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    Of course, it's kind of a dumb measurement to quote (even that rake), since the wheels/tires you choose can alter the ride height significantly. So.. it doesn't really matter what you start at, as long as it's consistent side-to-side and you're happy
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

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  4. #3
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    I think it is from the 4 corners of the cab structure before it starts to bend upward, front or rear. Yes, wheels and tire matter, but isn't height still height from ground?
    Ralph

  5. #4
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    Just + or - the height difference from FFR tires to the ride height.

  6. #5
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOP33 View Post
    The manual states that the ride height in the front is 4.5" in the front and 5" in the rear. It then states measured from ground to chassis. Is that at the chassis box or the lowest point of the chassis at the front of the car and the highest point of the chassis at the rear of the car?

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    Its measured at the four corners under the four corners of the main frame under the seating/cab area. As mentioned below what is in the manual is a guide. I found that my rear shocks were wrong and once I installed the correct ones my front measurement is ~6" and the rears are at ~7-5/8". It has a nice rake now.
    20181208_185822[1].jpg 20181208_190654[1].jpg
    These were recently taken, its hard to see but its a nice rake now.

  7. #6
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJT '33 View Post
    20181208_185822[1].jpg 20181208_190654[1].jpg
    These were recently taken, its hard to see but its a nice rake now.
    That sits nice! What are your wheel/tire specs?
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  8. #7
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    That sits nice! What are your wheel/tire specs?
    Front: Wheels PhatFUX 18x9 with Nitto 555 G2 245/40ZR18 Tires
    Rear Wheels PhatFUX 18x10 with Nitto 555 G2 295/40ZR18 Tires
    One cool thing is my tire guy installed flush air valves. As well I needed to add in 21mm spacers as well for clearance with this setup due to the backspace.
    20180504_140855.jpg 20180426_184745.jpg

  9. #8
    Consummate Learner TxMike64's Avatar
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    Thanks!
    That front/rear size combo looks great! The rear tires do indeed look phat!
    -- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
    Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread

  10. #9
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    Thanks!
    That front/rear size combo looks great! The rear tires do indeed look phat!
    Now that I have the correct rear shocks I could have gone an up to an inch wider if I wanted.

  11. #10
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    Yes, measure from 4 corners but the 4 1/2" and 5" was way to low for mine. I think i am at 6" rear and 5 1/2" front

    20180422_140653 (1).jpg

  12. #11
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    If you're going for a cool looking stance and not concerned about handling, then set your ride height where it looks best and still has reasonable road hazard clearance. But if handling is important to you just realize setting ride height arbitrarily will likely have adverse handling effects. And I'm not just talking about center of gravity changes.

    Changing ride height in the front affects roll center and lateral weight transfer (also affects rear roll center on IRS cars) but changing rear ride height on a solid axle car can change your instant center which affects acceleration / braking traction. Not considering this can make a car harder to hook or easier for the rear tires to lock on hard braking -- a real problem when hard braking in a corner or picking up the throttle on corner exit.

    It can also create roll steer, a very annoying trait. As the car leans in a corner (weight transfer) the rear axle is skewed and results in an uncommanded turning input, the direction is dependent on which way the LCAs are angled. When you're done setting your rear ride height measure the angle of the LCA and if they are not parallel to the ground you have just induced roll steer. The degree of which is dependent on the amount of angle -- more angle = more roll steer. So you should really consider how your ride height adjustments are affecting handling. Ideally you want the LCAs parallel to the ground. Drag racers will many times set these with the front angled uphill to adjust instant center higher to adjust anti-squat but corner handling is not a priority to them.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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