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Senior Member
Wheel Stud Turning In Hub
Today while re-installing my right rear wheel I couldn't get one of the lug nuts to torque. After some investigation, I found that the stud onto which the lug nut threads is turning in the hub & preventing me from getting the lug nut tightened to 85 ft-lbs. The stud starts turning at something less than 65 ft-lbs.
Now what?
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
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Seasoned Citizen
Pull a good lug and measure the hole diameter. Go to an online retailer like Summit Racing and find a set of wheel lugs with an oversized knurl and drill out the hub holes to fit the new lugs. Make sure to get a knurl size that there is a drill available for and remember, the hole has to be smaller than the knurl. The manufacturer can provide you with the proper hole size. A set of 10ea lugs will run you around $25.
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Senior Member
Yesterday I successfully removed the old stud. Initially I was going to press the stud out with a deep well socket and a C-clamp. However, there wasn't enough room for the socket to fully seat on the back side of the hub. So I went to plan B: the hammer. It took just a couple of gentle taps - almost like you'd use to set a finishing nail.
Getting the new stud in was a little problematic, but once I figured out how to place a bar between a couple of other studs to keep the hub from turning (even with the transmission in gear) it went pretty quickly. For those setting a 1/2"-20 stud by hand, be sure to remove the brake hat/rotor! If you don't, I'm sure you'll destroy it. I used two 1/2" structural washers against the hub, then a 9/16" nut as a spacer, then another two 1/2" structural washers, and finally a Grade 8 1/2" nut. Secure the hub from turning with a bar, and then get busy cranking that Grade 8 nut tight. Don't be surprised if you have to stand on the wrench (the hub is too deep in the wheel well for a cheater bar) to get 1/16 turn.
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313