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Thread: Smog Pump Deletion

  1. #1
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    Smog Pump Deletion

    I am switching from FFR cats to FFR j-pipes and deleting the smog pump from my 1991 engine. I have removed the pump and hoses and capped off the pipe going to the exhaust manifolds. I removed vacuum to the two control solenoids and capped their ports. I left them wired. I am installing a pump delete pulley from LMR. Anyone see any issues with this or have any suggestions? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    You may not even need a pump delete pulley, can't you just get a shorter belt? Do you still have the 5.0's stock power steering set up, or the supplied FFR idler pulley used to replace it?

    Are you talking about TAB and TAD, when you say you deleted two solenoids?
    Last edited by AC Bill; 11-02-2018 at 02:54 PM.

  3. #3
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    I have no power steering or pulley and using A/C delete pulley from FFR kit. Already have smog delete pulley which works with existing belt. Yes, TAD and TAB which are mounted on the top surface of the passenger upper foot box panel along with the EGR solenoid.
    Thanks

  4. #4
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Well as far as your belt pulley set up, just make sure you have a means of adjusting your belt tightness, and the belt is routed in such a way that the rotation on the water pump is correct. Stock 5.0 pumps had reverse rotation.

    In my case I added a aftermarket alternator bracket, that allowed for the belt to be adjusted. My belt only runs past the alternator, water pump, and crank pulleys. I didn't bother with the P/S, or the smog pump delete pulleys, and just used a shorter belt. It just tidy's the engine up a bit doing it that way. Some have expressed concern about the belt wrap, but 6000+ miles, and I don't get so much as a squeal. Since this picture I also got rid of that terrible looking alternator pulley..

    IMG_2943.JPG
    Last edited by AC Bill; 11-03-2018 at 12:36 PM.
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  5. #5
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    Moved Alt to DS with no issues for 16+ years . . . so no "delete" pulleys for anything.
    screen shot on pc

    Just run a shorter belt and ditch the extra pulleys.

    If you want to clean up the TAB-TAD solenoids, you can install a 75 Ohm 1/2 watt resistor in place of the solenoid coil(s).

    Doc
    Last edited by Big Blocker; 11-03-2018 at 06:21 PM.
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am using the stock tensioner from the donor, not so pretty a setup as yours, but it works. I also have the resistors which I will install later. Just wanted to be sure I wasn’t missing anything with the smog pump removal.

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