radiator reservoir location on coyote

[dan's33]

Being that I have a coyote engine my options are limited for the radiator reservoir location so I wanted to run it past you guys to see if I'm missing something.
Option #1 is next to radiator but i don't like that location since i would have to custom a mounting bracket and the reservoir itself is tilted which is a problem in my mind.
Option #2 is on passenger side firewall under the frame tube and fuel regulator and next to A/C bulkhead. I purchased some 90 fittings for heater hoses to make that clean and i would mount reservoir as high as i can to get cap off, I will need to use a funnel to fill but i don't expect to have to do that often. I will also get a 90 fitting for bottom of reservoir which does not stick down past frame and then run hose to radiator. Seems to me to be my best option since there is no room on drivers side.
This is a closed system so fluid should fill in when hot and pull out when cold right?

Also, secondary question, does it matter which heater hose goes into the A/C core, in other words, is there a particular direct the hot water should flow inside the car? I know it matters on the engine side but I the directions aren't specific for the inside.

thanks for the help!IMG_20181103_125505267.jpgIMG_20181103_125443284.jpg

[Bob Cowan]

The coyote doesn't use reservoir like that. You have to use the stock type closed system tank.



https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...rad-cap-style/

[CVOBill]

Bob, the Hot Rod used the old style overflow, not the newer style like the Roadster.

Dan, unfortunately I haven’t figured out what I want for a reservoir yet. But I don’t like the one we get in the kit.

[Svtfreak]

You don't have to use a stock type overflow tank but you do have to understand the system in order to not use stock type. You have to make sure the small return from the driver side head is bled while engine is hot to ensure all vapor is removed from the system. Normally that point is returned to the stock tank to allow gas to escape. Using an antomspheric pressure expansion tank doesn't have this tube connected. You have to manually bleed the vapor.

I am using the ffr supplied tank for now and as of now it works. It is not my final method. Some people use it for their final design and it has worked but you must get all air of if the system.

Plumbing direction of the heater doesn't matter. Ford says you must keep a flow through the heater hoses to allow vapor to escape the passenger head. Most people solve this by using a 4 way valve instead of the ffr supplied on/off valve. The 4 way reroutes flow to bypass the heater core. Ffr says they have ran the om/off on all their cars and never had an issue. I am thinking about drilling a 1/8" hole in the kn/off valve and using that to endure a small flow at all times. I'd use the 4 way but I want a clean as possible install which means the valve has to go inside the car and real estate is becoming a premium commodity on my build.

[Railroad]

Gen 1 Coyote uses a standard recovery tank. ,,,still looking for a tank and place to mount. I am using all the space between the TB and the radiator.

[Ducky2009]

Gen 1 Coyote uses a standard recovery tank. ,,,still looking for a tank and place to mount. I am using all the space between the TB and the radiator.

Joe, Did you get a tank with your kit, or are you looking for something different? I have one if you need it. FFR number: #16576 - STAINLESS OVERFLOW TANK KIT

[Ducky2009]

Also, secondary question, does it matter which heater hose goes into the A/C core, in other words, is there a particular direct the hot water should flow inside the car? I know it matters on the engine side but I the directions aren't specific for the inside.

thanks for the help!IMG_20181103_125505267.jpgIMG_20181103_125443284.jpg

Dan, Doesn't matter which way the water flows in the heater core. Also: I used a 4-way valve and it works great. Make sure you set it up with water flowing through the core when you pull the control out. It is possible to set it up backwards..

NOTE:
I turned the 90 degree heater fittings upward, into the 4-way valve, and then ran them under the engine cover. Used (electrical) loop clamps and reformed them to an oval/elongated shape and used the existing engine studs under the cover.
4-way valve - I added 1/8" Push-on retention washers (some people call them "Waring" washers). Added a dab of JB Weld to the top one to help secure it.
See my photo gallery for 4-way valve, push-on washers and clamps. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1083

[Railroad]

Joe, Did you get a tank with your kit, or are you looking for something different? I have one if you need it. FFR number: #16576 - STAINLESS OVERFLOW TANK KIT

I did get a tank with my kit, but as I understand, it does not have enough volume for the Coyote engine?
I might give it a try, anyway. Thanks for the offer.

[Dave Howard]

I did get a tank with my kit, but as I understand, it does not have enough volume for the Coyote engine?
I might give it a try, anyway. Thanks for the offer.

Yes, the FFR supplied coolant overflow tank will work. My experience has been the volume isn't enough. On a hot day the overflow tank tends to ....overflow. As said by svtfreak, the install requires bleeding air from the engine. Not hard, just a little finiky. Actually, so long as your water pump isn't airbound, things will be fine. I'm using a similar larger tank from Jegs I think.

As for the heater routing, I followed the route from the Ford instructions. I didn't bother with a 4 way re-route valve. I've run the car hard and run it for long stretches. No issues.

[AJT '33]

The current tank that is being shipped with the kits have been upgraded and are larger than the originals. I contacted Tony Z at one point and he sent me a new one. I mounted mine on the firewall similar to yours. The setup in this kit is not a closed pressure system due to the radiator, therefore you need an overflow, I ran my overflow line from the radiator to the overflow tank along the frame but hidden behind the body sides. Once you have the system full only put no more than 1/4-1/3 full additional coolant in the tank or it will overflow until it stabilizes and you've run it hot a few times.
20180331_144720.jpg 20180410_191053.jpg This pic shows the overflow line going from the rad to the reservoir.

[Svtfreak]

Yes, the FFR supplied coolant overflow tank will work. My experience has been the volume isn't enough. On a hot day the overflow tank tends to ....overflow. As said by svtfreak, the install requires bleeding air from the engine. Not hard, just a little finiky. Actually, so long as your water pump isn't airbound, things will be fine. I'm using a similar larger tank from Jegs I think.

As for the heater routing, I followed the route from the Ford instructions. I didn't bother with a 4 way re-route valve. I've run the car hard and run it for long stretches. No issues.

You plumbed it like Ford says or like ffr said? You have the single valve in the supply to the heater core?

[Dave Howard]

You plumbed it like Ford says or like ffr said? You have the single valve in the supply to the heater core?

Plumbed the O/F like FFR. The heater followed the Ford route minus the 4 way switch. I used the FFR supplied cable actuated valve. Installed it on the feed line to the heart term core. On a MkIV mind you but there's no difference.

[Svtfreak]

Plumbed the O/F like FFR. The heater followed the Ford route minus the 4 way switch. I used the FFR supplied cable actuated valve. Installed it on the feed line to the heart term core. On a MkIV mind you but there's no difference.

OK got it. Yeah the operation is the same no matter. Glad to hear the 2 way worked for you also. Starting to make me think that I'll do the same. I figure I have about 24 hours left to decide lol.

[dan's33]

Thanks for all the info guys, that really helps.
I'm going to stick with my mounting location for the overflow, since i have a newer kit I'll assume it large enough, I'll just make sure to get rid of air in system.
I think I'll skip the 4 way valve for now at least and see how it goes.
Interesting that FFR shows the on/off valve pointing in a different direction, against the flow? see pic. From what i can tell looking at the coyote coolant system diagram the passenger side is supply to heater and drivers side is return. The valve has an arrow on it so i would assume it needs to point in direction of flow?ffr valve.jpg

[dan's33]

here is mine
my valve.jpg