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Thread: Driveshaft Loop

  1. #41
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Jeez Rich, need stronger meds? I think this is an interesting discussion.
    Jeez CraigS, EVER HEARD of sarcastic humor?
    Last edited by rich grsc; 11-16-2018 at 06:47 PM.

  2. #42
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miller7448 View Post
    Has anyone priced out a carbon fiber drive shaft?

    https://www.hotrod.com/articles/the-...afts-from-qa1/
    In my early drag racing days I broke a lot of u-joints on the 1-2 shift close to 9 grand. Never twisted a driveshaft. Don’t think I ever saw one twist, it’s always been joints, u-bolts or yokes. IMHO I think twisting one our length shafts would be REALLY hard to do.
    $600-$1000 carbon fiber driveshaft.... bragging rights?
    $130 driveshaft loop (saved my butt many times 40 years ago)..... definite no brainer.

    Kurt

    Then of course line your transmission tunnel with old tiles from the space shuttle
    Last edited by SSNK4US; 11-17-2018 at 02:27 AM.
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

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  3. #43
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Rich, sorry if I misunderstood your intentions. Sometimes things that would be obvious in a person to person discussion are not knowable over the web.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  4. #44
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    How about this for a driveshaft.


    B2A4362A-BD29-4DFB-93D8-D1E3EA20AC2B.jpg
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  5. #45
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Packer fan View Post
    How about this for a driveshaft.


    B2A4362A-BD29-4DFB-93D8-D1E3EA20AC2B.jpg
    That looks like GoDadGo's drive shaft!
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  6. #46
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    That looks like GoDadGo's drive shaft!
    That is the result of a t56 magnum transmission ( a little longer than tko600) and a IRS.
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  7. #47
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Wow!!!
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Packer fan View Post
    How about this for a driveshaft.


    B2A4362A-BD29-4DFB-93D8-D1E3EA20AC2B.jpg
    good that it fits an IRS, not much room for axle travel.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  9. #49
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Thank god for removable slip joints or I would have to pull the motor to change a clutch.

    https://www.markwilliams.com/holland...s-rr_yokes.gifEC85AEEF-9174-4A9E-B274-05266F0BA3DF.gif
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  10. #50
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Driveshaft Angles & Phasing

    One of my Chevelle Club buddies posted this an eon ago... but it is useful info - the angles in the demonstration are exaggerated, but reinforces the need for accuracy...

    Driveshaft angles & phasing
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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  11. #51
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    And don't forget about the turbo encabulator.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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  13. #52
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    And don't forget about the turbo encabulator.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag
    Sounds like a typical day at work for me. Only a room full of engineers could spend an eight hour day developing and documenting a procedure for the extraction and installation of a device used to produce electromagnetic radiation in the visible spectrum produced by energizing a tungsten element encased within a vacuum.
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  14. #53
    Senior Member frankb's Avatar
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    I think we have drifted away from the original subject...
    FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)

  15. #54
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    You have now entered the twilight zone.

  16. #55
    Senior Member chrisarella's Avatar
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    Anyone know for certain if the Metco Safety loop fits an IRS with a T56?
    https://www.metcomotorsports.com/pro...p?prod=MDL2500
    Chris
    Mark IV Roadster #7679
    Coyote 5.0, T56, Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Torsen Diff, Wilwoods, Hydraboost, ABS Power Brakes, Power Steering, & tons more extras.

  17. #56
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Sounds like a typical day at work for me. Only a room full of engineers could spend an eight hour day developing and documenting a procedure for the extraction and installation of a device used to produce electromagnetic radiation in the visible spectrum produced by energizing a tungsten element encased within a vacuum.
    How many engineers DID it take to screw in the light bulb?

  18. #57
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    How many engineers DID it take to screw in the light bulb?
    None. They decided to put out a request for proposal for a maintenance contract and are now paying about $120 for the contractor to do it for them.
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  19. #58
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisarella View Post
    Anyone know for certain if the Metco Safety loop fits an IRS with a T56?
    https://www.metcomotorsports.com/pro...p?prod=MDL2500
    Chris,

    I suspect this would work exactly the same for the IRS cars, but give them a call. They were very responsive when I contacted them.

    Dave
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  21. #59
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    The picture I included with Post #2 is with the T-bird IRS and T5; that should give you a pretty good idea of whether the T56 would fit. Note that I shimmed the differential up 1/4" to get the pinion angle where I wanted it; that in turn forced me to use 3/4" spacers under the loop.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
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  22. #60
    #9160 BB767's Avatar
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    Looked on Fortes web site and could not find the "loop". Anyone have a direct link to it?
    MK4 - complete kit - Blueprint 427W - Holly Sniper EFI - TKO 600 .64 - 3.55 3 link - 17" Halibrands

  23. #61
    Senior Member chrisarella's Avatar
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    It isn't on the site. Just call him.

  24. #62
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    Metco make one just for FFR MKIV

    Guys,
    Here is the link make for our cars:
    https://www.metcomotorsports.com/sea...=&stype=&scat=

    $129
    Well worth the insurance-just like the quick time explosion proof bell housing.

    Do it
    Martin

  25. #63
    Senior Member chrisarella's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magicmarto View Post
    Guys,
    Here is the link make for our cars:
    https://www.metcomotorsports.com/sea...=&stype=&scat=

    $129
    Well worth the insurance-just like the quick time explosion proof bell housing.

    Do it
    Martin
    Thanks Martin. Are these in stock? And will it work with the extra short driveshaft in a T56-Magnum/IRS setup?

    BTW, just an observation... you should add a link for Factory Five to your Vehicle navigation.
    Last edited by chrisarella; 02-12-2019 at 09:55 AM.
    Chris
    Mark IV Roadster #7679
    Coyote 5.0, T56, Hydraulic Clutch, IRS, Torsen Diff, Wilwoods, Hydraboost, ABS Power Brakes, Power Steering, & tons more extras.

  26. #64
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magicmarto View Post
    Guys,
    Here is the link make for our cars:
    https://www.metcomotorsports.com/sea...=&stype=&scat=

    $129
    Well worth the insurance-just like the quick time explosion proof bell housing.

    Do it
    Martin
    Just ordered mine. I'm pretty sure this is going to be the strongest sales month in the history of Metco Motorsports thanks to this thread!

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  28. #65
    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magicmarto View Post
    Guys,
    Here is the link make for our cars:
    https://www.metcomotorsports.com/sea...=&stype=&scat=

    $129
    Well worth the insurance-just like the quick time explosion proof bell housing.

    Do it
    Martin

    yup, got mine too this week.

    RickP

  29. #66
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    I got mine a few weeks ago. When I reached out to them, they had just fabbed them but they had not yet been powder coated. That was perfect for me since I ordered my chassis bare, so I got a bare driveshaft safety loop and I'm going to have it PC'ed along with the chassis so they match.
    MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.

  30. #67
    Member Rook's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisarella View Post
    Anyone know for certain if the Metco Safety loop fits an IRS with a T56?
    https://www.metcomotorsports.com/pro...p?prod=MDL2500
    I'm late to this thread, but wanted to post an answer here for anyone else who needs the info:

    I talked to Metco today and they said their test car actually used a T56 Magnum and IRS, so the answer is a definite yes!

  31. #68
    Senior Member chrisarella's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rook View Post
    I'm late to this thread, but wanted to post an answer here for anyone else who needs the info:

    I talked to Metco today and they said their test car actually used a T56 Magnum and IRS, so the answer is a definite yes!
    Ugh, already got one from Mike Forte but good that the info is here for others in the future.
    Chris
    Mark IV Roadster #7679
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  32. #69
    Member timmil's Avatar
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    Hey everyone,

    Totally on board and agree with the need but I am curious how hard and how much time would it take to install on a completed car? If anyone has any tips or insights please share.

    Tim
    FFR#5539 306FI, T5, 8.8 Rear, Hot Hues Jazzy Blue, Ford TS Stripes, Stock brakes, North Race Cars Axle 5-lug conversion

  33. #70
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    If you're talking the Metco on a Mk4, my son and I did it in 40 minutes from the time we jacked the car up to setting it back on the ground. If you're talking the Forte unit, it takes quite a while longer, as you have to remove the driveshaft slide it inside the hoop and then reinstall the driveshaft. Those threaded nutserts are quite tricky to get aligned on round tubing.

    Scott
    Built FFR9457. 351 Windsor, TKO600, 3.73. Fitech EFI. Russ Thompson throttle pedal, turn signal, and trunk pan. Carbon Fiber dash with Speedhut Revolution gauges. Paint by Jeff Kleiner.

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  35. #71
    Member timmil's Avatar
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    Thanks Scott. I am going to be installing a Metco on an MK 3.1. Don't know if that changes anything.

    Tim
    FFR#5539 306FI, T5, 8.8 Rear, Hot Hues Jazzy Blue, Ford TS Stripes, Stock brakes, North Race Cars Axle 5-lug conversion

  36. #72
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    That 40-minute number is best case. If you're like me, you'll need some spacers under the loop, which meant longer bolts. Between fabricating the spacers & a trip to the hardware store in Northern VA traffic, the job turned into half a day.

    I also had to re-route my brake cables so that they didn't rub the loop. I didn't find that out 'til later in the build.

    Still worth doing though.


    John

    IMG_3369 by jhsitton, on Flickr

    IMG_3530 by jhsitton, on Flickr
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 09-18-2020 at 12:46 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  37. #73
    Senior Member GTBradley's Avatar
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    ...or spend only 20 bucks on a speedmaster universal loop and spend three days fabricating your own mounting



    Bradley

    Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.

    The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.

  38. #74
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    Anyone experiencing an issue of the loop vibrating on big bumps and hitting a driveshaft?
    Build thread
    FFR mk4 roadster complete kit, 347 cu in carbed BluePrint engine, TKO600, IRS, power steering, ordered Jan2020, delivered 3/25/20, titled 8/23/20, finished 07/17/2021, graduated 10/06/2021

  39. #75
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    That would have to be some bump! As you can see from the pictures I posted, there's at least a full inch of clearance between the hoop & the drive shaft.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  40. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    That would have to be some bump! As you can see from the pictures I posted, there's at least a full inch of clearance between the hoop & the drive shaft.


    John
    In your case, with spacers - yes. I don’t have spacers and I feel like the loop vibrates on bumps and sometimes touches the driveshaft. I’m gonna lift the car later this week and will take a closer look
    Build thread
    FFR mk4 roadster complete kit, 347 cu in carbed BluePrint engine, TKO600, IRS, power steering, ordered Jan2020, delivered 3/25/20, titled 8/23/20, finished 07/17/2021, graduated 10/06/2021

  41. #77
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexmak View Post
    Anyone experiencing an issue of the loop vibrating on big bumps and hitting a driveshaft?
    If your safety loop is vibrating that much I'd be concerned that it would have little chance of containing a driveshaft failure. The energy released when a u-joint lets go is impressive.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

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  42. #78
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    OK, so here’s what my issue with driveshaft loop was:

    1. It’s attached to the transmission mount in the front, but the back of the loop part is essentially hanging in the air (on the photo - right side)

    Which means that the rear part of the loop mount plate was vibrating

    2. Since I haven’t used any spacers for the loop itself, it was pretty close to the driveshaft from the top


    So on some large bumps it would vibrate in way that it the loop was hitting the driveshaft.

    3. Once I installed the “spacers”, the problem seems to go away


    (Unless I missed some important part of the driveshaft loop mount instructions, of course)
    Build thread
    FFR mk4 roadster complete kit, 347 cu in carbed BluePrint engine, TKO600, IRS, power steering, ordered Jan2020, delivered 3/25/20, titled 8/23/20, finished 07/17/2021, graduated 10/06/2021

  43. #79
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    That amount of shim seems just a bit excessive. I would think you could do with half that much. Also, if your parking brake cables are anywhere close, check to make sure they are not rubbing on the edge of the loop.

    I can't remember if I used a 3/8 or 1/2 shim, but it was a fine line between clearing the drive shaft (3 link) and not having the parking brake cables rubbing on it. I ended up "rounding" the edge of the safety loop so that the cables, although just barely touching, will not chafe.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  44. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    That amount of shim seems just a bit excessive. I would think you could do with half that much. Also, if your parking brake cables are anywhere close, check to make sure they are not rubbing on the edge of the loop.

    I can't remember if I used a 3/8 or 1/2 shim, but it was a fine line between clearing the drive shaft (3 link) and not having the parking brake cables rubbing on it. I ended up "rounding" the edge of the safety loop so that the cables, although just barely touching, will not chafe.
    Thanks! I started with half, but i was still able to pull the plate for loop to the driveshaft, so added more. the loop is shifted to the side to reduce the amount of touching the loop as much possible.

    I’m actually reconsidering the need for this loop, since it looks like I’m going to be doing mostly street driving with a sane amount of horsepower.
    Build thread
    FFR mk4 roadster complete kit, 347 cu in carbed BluePrint engine, TKO600, IRS, power steering, ordered Jan2020, delivered 3/25/20, titled 8/23/20, finished 07/17/2021, graduated 10/06/2021

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