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Thread: Gen 2 Coyote Wiring For Dummies

  1. #1
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    Gen 2 Coyote Wiring For Dummies

    Holy Cow! Wiring the Coyote hasn't been easy for me. I gather that there are better ways to wire than what is outlined in the FFR recommendations, but when I try to merge the 2 approaches I get myself all confused. What makes it worse is that each day that I come back to work on it, I have forgotten all that I had concluded in the previous session. I am changing my approach and drawing diagrams for myself and taking good notes. I am just not good enough not to. So, I am working on power wiring. This is for a Gen 3 Coupe with Gen 2 Coyote, RF chassis harness with AC.

    I am copying EdwardB's setup for the most part becuase why not. It looks great. I am using a master disconnect switch. The easy part is battery power to the always on terminal of the disconnect, cable from here to the fuse, cable from the fuse to the PDB. The PDB has a red power cable that runs from the terminal around and inside the PDB. I assume can disconnect the existing red PDB cable and wire it directly to the fuse. In other words, the fuse would have one line to the terminal and one line that runs straight into the PDB.

    To the switch terminal, I will run a cable to the starter and power supply to the RF fuse box via the "Battery Feed"(FFR recommends running this to the starter).



    I will follow these instructions from the master:
    What you are seeing from others is they are choosing the second choice, e.g. having the Coyote start function do the work. That means
    (1) Connecting the Coyote pigtail SMR to the blue "EFI Crank" wire as you indicated,
    (2) Connecting the Coyote harness start wire (Item N) to the small terminal on the starter solenoid and not the RF blue start wire,
    (3) Using the Coyote supplied bottom clutch switch as a safety interlock,
    (4) Ignoring the instructions on page 96 of the Factory Five instructions for a neutral safety switch with the RF blue wires. Those wires can be removed from the harness or just clipped off and capped.

    The Clutch Safety circuit in the RF Chassis harness involves 2 blue wires. One goes to the ignition and the other to the starter. I will remove those from the harness.

    The black 10 AWG blunt cut wire in the controls pack harness is the starter wire(N).{This is a ground. I had cut the blue starter wire and later found it}

    The RF Orange Coil wire is connected to the light green ignition relay in the 16way pigtail in the controls pack.

    RF has the alternator wire running to the starter. I suppose if it were wired to the battery cable end of the disconnect, it would be a more direct path to charging the battery.

    I haven't figured out what to do with the Ignition SW to solenoid wire in the chassis harness.

    I will connect the Blue SMR Start Request from the Controls pack 16 way to the Blue EFI Crank wire in the RF harness.

    With so many grounds, do I need to use the ground from the 16 way connector?

    It would be nice if there were better wring instructions available from FFR for the Coyote. There a few variables in different builds, but it would be that hard. The ones provided have many holes for the new builder.Any input would be much appreciated.
    Last edited by jdavis500; 01-01-2019 at 05:41 PM. Reason: Error
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC JDAVIS500 Build Thread

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  3. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Most of what you have here is correct. Don't over complicate or over think this. (I know, easy to say...) Install the Ron Francis chassis harness mostly per the provided RF instructions and schematic. Install the Coyote controls pack mostly like the Ford Performance instructions. Basically, the Coyote setup is a standalone system that only needs a couple interface points to the Ron Francis harness to function: +12 volts battery power, ignition on sense wire, start sense wire, and tap into existing fuel pump wiring. The Factory Five Coyote installation instructions provide specific details, but don't give all and give you some choices without a lot of explanation about why you might want to choose one thing over another. The specific examples, mostly that you've mentioned, are the clutch safety switch, start function, and cooling fan function. Here my personal choice is to use the Coyote functions, and find that works very well. What you're going to find (and hopefully this doesn't freak you out) is that for the Coyote + Coupe AC you're going to need both the RF and Coyote cooling fan circuits. It's in the AC instructions. Don't worry about that right now. Focus on the basics.

    Comments about these statements in particular:

    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    RF has the alternator wire running to the starter. I suppose if it were wired to the battery cable end of the disconnect, it would be a more direct path to charging the battery.
    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    I haven't figured out what to do with the Ignition SW to solenoid wire in the chassis harness.
    This is a bit confusing and I get this question a lot. The RF schematic shows a “Starter Solenoid” and then multiple wires routed to it, including battery main power, start wire, Red Battery Feed, Red Alternator Feed, and Red Ignition Switch Feed. Some interpret this as the solenoid on the almost universally used mini-starter with the integral solenoid, rather than a separate firewall mounted solenoid that was common on Ford products for years and many still use in their builds. Yes, it’s possible to pull all the wires to the actual starter, but it’s not easy and not particularly neat. Additionally, a separate firewall solenoid is no longer required. I haven’t used one an any of my builds. Many use a large binding post on the firewall to gather those wires together. In fact Factory Five includes one with the Coyote completion kit. I personally use a Blue Sea Systems 2307 150A bus bar. Same idea, just a different personal choice. I feed the bus bar off the switched side of the master disconnect. Then attach the three wires (Red Battery Feed, Red Alternator Feed, and Red Ignition Switch Feed) to the bus bar.

    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    With so many grounds, do I need to use the ground from the 16 way connector?
    Connect all the grounds provided in the Coyote harness. Doesn’t hurt anything and you can never have too many grounds.
    Last edited by edwardb; 11-14-2018 at 07:32 AM.
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    Confused about starter lead

    So my Controls Pack Harness has 2 10 AWG wires. One is orange and I understand this is the fan wire. The other is black and I thought it was the starter lead. While modifying the harness, I discovered that the 10 AWG blunt cut black wire is connected to the ground system. My harness has no branch at items MNO on the Ford diagram. I opened the harness in this spot and I found wires that were cut and heat shrinked. I don't remember doing this, but it has been a long project and my memory isn't always the best. At this point I am just confused. Looking at this image of the harness on the Ford instructions, it seems as though the yellow and the white twisted wire are the EPAS. The blue wire that is heat shrinked is coming from the PDB. Is this the start lead? All help appreciated.
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    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC JDAVIS500 Build Thread

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Hard to be 100% sure with the harness opened up like that and the wires cut. But what I can tell you is that (1) The orange fan wire is one of the larger gauge wires. Probably 10 gauge, like you mentioned. (2) There's a long black wire of the same gauge that's the main ground wire. Ford's instructions are to home run that wire directly to the battery ground connection. (3) The start wire is blue, smaller gauge than the fan and ground. (4) If you don't have the MNO harness leg, then by process of elimination those wires appear to be fan, starter, and EPAS (electric power steering).
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  7. #5
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    Gen 2 Coyote Fan Wiring

    IMG_1522.jpgIMG_1523.jpg

    I am wrapping up some wiring issues and currently I am a little confused with the AC/fan wiring. Her is what I believe to be true and open to corrections.

    1. The blue wire at the RF fusbox is first clipped near the fuse box and the short remaining portion remaining is capped. The orange 10AWG fan wire from the Coyote controls pack harness is connected to the blue RF wire that leads to the fan. This takes the RF fuse out of the circuit leaving the PDB fuse for the fan circuit.

    2. The light blue ground wire from the Trinary switch(Drier) comes to the fuse box where it is connected to the green fan thermo switch wire coming from the RF fusebox and heads to the fan.

    3. The front harness portion that terminates at the fan has 3 wires that include the black ground, blue fan wire, and the green thermo fan wire.

    4. At some point the green wire should be connected to the blue fan wire. This way, the Coyote PCM can control the fan and the AC will also turn on the fan if the AC is on.

    The AC installation instructions don't specify what happens with the green wire.
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC JDAVIS500 Build Thread

  8. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    IMG_1522.jpgIMG_1523.jpg

    I am wrapping up some wiring issues and currently I am a little confused with the AC/fan wiring. Her is what I believe to be true and open to corrections.

    1. The blue wire at the RF fusbox is first clipped near the fuse box and the short remaining portion remaining is capped. The orange 10AWG fan wire from the Coyote controls pack harness is connected to the blue RF wire that leads to the fan. This takes the RF fuse out of the circuit leaving the PDB fuse for the fan circuit.

    2. The light blue ground wire from the Trinary switch(Drier) comes to the fuse box where it is connected to the green fan thermo switch wire coming from the RF fusebox and heads to the fan.

    3. The front harness portion that terminates at the fan has 3 wires that include the black ground, blue fan wire, and the green thermo fan wire.

    4. At some point the green wire should be connected to the blue fan wire. This way, the Coyote PCM can control the fan and the AC will also turn on the fan if the AC is on.

    The AC installation instructions don't specify what happens with the green wire.
    I'm literally working on this exact step with mine right now. Not done, but 99% sure I understand how this is supposed to work. Right after I received my A/C kit, I asked Factory Five a couple questions to confirm. Your points aren't quite right, and rather than address them point-by-point, I'll just describe from scratch. What's important to understand I think is that with this setup (Coyote + A/C) the cooling fan can be triggered by one of two ways. (1) Via the Ron Francis (RF) harness triggered by the trinary switch, or (2) Via the Coyote cooling fan wire triggered by the Coyote PCM/PDB. I was concerned that it was OK to have these two coexist, and even potentially both be powered on at the same time. Factory Five assured me this was OK.

    So first the RF harness. The way it works is pretty simple. The blue fan wire and ground attach to the fan motor. When one of the green fan switch wires are connected to ground, the fan relay is energized and the fan is powered. In a non-Coyote installation, typically one of those green fan switch wires is connected to a thermal switch in the coolant or radiator. At the prescribed temperature, the switch closes, grounds the green fan switch wire and the fan runs. There are two fan switch wires in the RF harness. One in the front harness and one in the sender harness. They are both connected at the relay in the fuse panel. Only one is needed. For the A/C installation with a Coyote, the only trigger will be the trinary switch. Factory Five shows connecting the trinary switch wire to one of the green fan switch wires directly at the fuse panel. That's OK, but I'm going to use the green fan switch wire in the sender harness and connect behind the dash. Same difference. I removed the second one.

    To add the Coyote cooling wire, the Factory Five A/C instructions show attaching the wire at the fan motor itself. "... connect both the chassis harness blue fan wire (AKA RF) and the engine control fan wire (AKA Coyote) and attach to the fan power..." I'm going to simplify that a bit too and connect the Coyote cooling fan wire to the RF cooling fan wire in the front harness from behind the dash. Again, same difference electrically. No need to run two wires all the way to the fan IMO.

    Hope that makes sense and helps.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-01-2019 at 08:52 AM.
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    OK. This is all new to me and I don't completely understand this. The Coyote fan wire coming from the PDB is already fused and should be connected to the blue fan wire at the fusebox or better yet at the front harness. This wire goes straight to the fan with the ground. This part is easy(I think).

    Only the blue fan wire and ground need to go all the way to the fan motor.

    The redundant green thermo switch wire going to the sending unit can be remove in my case along with the thermo fan wire in the front harness that leads all the way to the fan.

    The light blue trinary wire connects to the green fan thermo switch wire meant for the front harness in my case. The FFR picture of this shows a butt connector with the fusebox side green thermo wire on one end and the blue Trinary wire and the front harness side green thermo switch wires on the other end. I am confused. Without a thermo switch in the Coyote, should it just be the blue Trinary wire butting to the green thermo fan switch wire leading into the relay?IMG_1528.jpg
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC JDAVIS500 Build Thread

  10. #8
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    The Coyote fan wire coming from the PDB is already fused and should be connected to the blue fan wire at the fusebox or better yet at the front harness. This wire goes straight to the fan with the ground. This part is easy(I think).
    Correct. I don't know that one location for the Coyote fan wire is better than another. It's just a matter of convenience. Or opinion, and I have no shortage of those.

    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    Only the blue fan wire and ground need to go all the way to the fan motor.
    Correct.

    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    The redundant green thermo switch wire going to the sending unit can be remove in my case along with the thermo fan wire in the front harness that leads all the way to the fan.
    Yes, there are two RF green fan thermo switch wires. If you look at the RF schematic (and in the fuse panel) you'll see they're both connected to the same terminal on the relay. Either can complete the ground circuit which in turn energizes the RF fan relay. You only need one for the A/C trinary switch. Doesn't matter which one. You can remove the other or just tie it out of the way. The green fan thermo wire in the RF front harness isn't meant to go to the fan itself. It serves no purpose there. They're just giving you another option or path for where you might want to hook it to a sensor in a non-Coyote setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    The light blue trinary wire connects to the green fan thermo switch wire meant for the front harness in my case. The FFR picture of this shows a butt connector with the fusebox side green thermo wire on one end and the blue Trinary wire and the front harness side green thermo switch wires on the other end. I am confused. Without a thermo switch in the Coyote, should it just be the blue Trinary wire butting to the green thermo fan switch wire leading into the relay?
    IMG_1528.jpg
    As already stated, you could use either green fan thermo switch wires. I'm assuming you're talking about the picture on page 106 of the instructions, where it shows breaking into one of the green fan thermo switch wires directly at the fuse panel. Agree that's maybe a little confusing. But keep in mind these instructions could also be used for someone not doing a Coyote, so they may still need the green fan thermo switch wire(s) to go elsewhere for a traditional engine temperature sensor. In that case, either the trinary switch or the engine sensor could trigger the cooling fan to operate. In the case of a Coyote, the RF cooling fan circuit is only used when the trinary switch commands the cooling fan.

    You are correct, for a Coyote setup the Coyote onboard sensors and PCM/PDB trigger the cooling fan when the engine temperature requires it. That's probably one of the key takeaways to understanding this discussion. RF cooling circuit in this case is for the A/C system only (e.g. commanded by the trinary switch) and the Coyote cooling circuit is for managing engine temperature. Either one can run the cooling fan.

    If your attached schematic is intending to show the wiring setup, including the relay shown is the one in the RF fuse panel, then that is correct. That's how it would look when completed.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-01-2019 at 05:00 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    Awesome. You're the man, Paul. Now on to CMCV and the rest of the Coyote plumbing. I see some good discussions regarding this with #8674. Similar here, although, I don't have a fuel pressure regulator. I will just eliminate that vaccum hose branch. I think the hardest part there is figuring out all the fittings to make it happen and still make it somewhat elegant/efficient.
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC JDAVIS500 Build Thread

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    I currently have the engine running. One loose end is my tach. I have the FFR Vintage GPS guages. I spliced the quick connect yellow wire that plugs into the guage directly to the blue wire at cylinder 4 as described in the FFR Coyote instructions, but I get nothing when the engine is running. The FFR instructions describe connecting the purple wire from the sending unit which I am not using. Am I doing anything wrong? Should I check continuity?

    I have seen a couple of type of calibration for the fule sensor. One is base on standard resistances for specific sensors and another based on the actual fuel level in the tank. Any input is appreciated.
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC JDAVIS500 Build Thread

  13. #11
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    I currently have the engine running. One loose end is my tach. I have the FFR Vintage GPS guages. I spliced the quick connect yellow wire that plugs into the guage directly to the blue wire at cylinder 4 as described in the FFR Coyote instructions, but I get nothing when the engine is running. The FFR instructions describe connecting the purple wire from the sending unit which I am not using. Am I doing anything wrong? Should I check continuity?
    That should work. Did you set the calibration on the tach? That's the first thing to check. Since you're only getting a pulse signal every other revolution of the engine, it has to be on ".5 pulse per rev" as shown in the Speedhut directions. Factory Five doesn't mention this in their instructions. If it's not on this setting, no surprise you wouldn't get any needle indication.

    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    I have seen a couple of type of calibration for the fuel sensor. One is base on standard resistances for specific sensors and another based on the actual fuel level in the tank. Any input is appreciated.
    If you're using the sender that came with the kit, the calibration should work on the 16-158 ohms setting, or 7/8 indicated when in calibration mode.
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  14. #12
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    Ok. Thanks. This gives me some work to do. I have been looking for the Speedhut directions for a few weeks and finally found them.
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC JDAVIS500 Build Thread

  15. #13
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdavis500 View Post
    Ok. Thanks. This gives me some work to do. I have been looking for the Speedhut directions for a few weeks and finally found them.
    Speedhut has all their instructions sheets on the web. https://www.speedhut.com/instructions.i
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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