Question About Header / Side Pipe Heat Damage

[BadAsp427]

So I'm wanting to know if this seems normal and is there anyway to remove the discoloration to the side pipes and get it back to chrome look?

I've only run the motor a total of about 20 minutes. While following the instruction from BluePrint Engines and running the engine at 2000 RPM the headers and pipes got extremely hot. I talked to BPE and it was explained to me that at 2000 the timing was not advanced enough and that I should run it at 2500 to insure the timing advance was fully advanced. So it was explained this is what caused my BBK Ceramic Coated headers to glow red and my side pipes to get so hot as well. Also blistered and melted my plug wire boots. BPE Is replacing the wires. Also, even the chrome on the side pipe to header flange bolts flaked off. This was all during a 10-12 minute run.

I guess that if it is inevitable that my headers and side pipes will look like this, then I wont be quite as upset, but I really liked my $1000 polished SS Side pipes looking shinny silver, not burnt brown. And my $700 nice ceramic headers are now completely dull, flat, not shinny or silver any longer.. more like light gray....

Here are some photos... Before as well as after. I would love to hear your thoughts and experience with this issue.

BEFORE:
IMG_2370.jpg IMG_2372.jpg IMG_2403.jpg IMG_2404.jpg

AFTER:
IMG_0357.jpg IMG_0361.jpg IMG_0359.jpg IMG_0358.jpg

[rich grsc]

That is NOT normal or correct. Did you check the timing at startup? That is either a retarded timing or lean fuel condition.

[Joe Campbell]

Sounds like it was running lean to get that hot. The discoloration on the stainless is normal, but normally would take weeks or months to get that bad. There are products that very easily bring back the original shine.

[BadAsp427]

That is NOT normal or correct. Did you check the timing at startup? That is either a retarded timing or lean fuel condition.

Yes, the timing is now correct. I was actually doing the "brake in" run and setting the timing and such during the run that caused this. I was in bright daylight so I did not immediately see the headers glowing cherry red, but as soon as I did, I dropped it back down to idle and all cooled down. I guess the issue was that running at that 2000 RPM was just not giving it the advance it needed. (vacuum advance was disconnected and the mechanical (weights) advance needs to be at/above 2500 to advance as needed. All is good now with the vacuum hooked up.

[BadAsp427]

Sounds like it was running lean to get that hot. The discoloration on the stainless is normal, but normally would take weeks or months to get that bad. There are products that very easily bring back the original shine.

That is good news. I'll do some looking and find that. Now I just need to figure out what I'm going to do to "brighten" up my headers.

[Papa]

Carl,

My headers run at about 475 degrees at the head flange after the engine has been running for 15-20 minutes. Do you have a way to measure the temperature? We have the same engine, just with different fuel management systems (carb vs. EFI). I have no idea how hot those headers would have to get to bake the ceramic coating like that, but likely close to 1000 degrees.

Dave

[Jeff Kleiner]

Sorry Dale, you're not going to bring the headers back. Why were you running it at 2,000 RPM at initial startup?

Jeff

[boat737]

Compound 302 for stainless discoloration. My side pipe discoloration wasn't as bad as yours, but this stuff is amazing. Don't leave it on for more than 1/2 minute or less, it's pretty strong. https://www.amazon.com/Harris-ARCP30...70_&dpSrc=srch

[BadAsp427]

Sorry Dale, you're not going to bring the headers back. Why were you running it at 2,000 RPM at initial startup?

Jeff

The 2000 RPM is the written guidance from BluePrint. I followed those instructions. Stage 5 is the timing setting instructions and in my case it was really just checking it, not setting it as it was set on the dyno at BPE and I found it to be good.
BPE1.jpg

[BadAsp427]

Carl,

My headers run at about 475 degrees at the head flange after the engine has been running for 15-20 minutes. Do you have a way to measure the temperature? We have the same engine, just with different fuel management systems (carb vs. EFI). I have no idea how hot those headers would have to get to bake the ceramic coating like that, but likely close to 1000 degrees.

Dave

I do, but do not plan to get it there again... I guess my question is not how this happened, that has been determined, the question in my mind is what to do going forward to get my car looking it's best. Also, I'm not sure if I should be upset with the fact that I was doing my best to follow the guidance from BPE to the letter and this happened. I'm upset, but I guess there is nothing I can do about it now...

[BadAsp427]

Compound 302 for stainless discoloration. My side pipe discoloration wasn't as bad as yours, but this stuff is amazing. Don't leave it on for more than 1/2 minute or less, it's pretty strong. https://www.amazon.com/Harris-ARCP30...70_&dpSrc=srch

Thanks for this information. I'll see what remedies may be offered and then go this direction if need be. Thanks again for the info...

[cv2065]

I'm guessing that they are recommending the 2K RPM initially just to get the engine warmed up to operating temps quickly so you can verify the timing and make adjustments if necessary. However, I figured that it would be correct out of the box if coming off the dyno. I'll be sure to check mine as well. I know there is a disclaimer there on the instructions, but I'd probably be talking to BP about those pipes.

[Fixit]

The "running at 2K" is a hold-out from the flat tappet camshaft days, but it is still a valid need.
The reasoning behind it is that the cam lobe & lifter contact points are lubricated via "splash" - not a pressurized feed - and 2k rpm ensures plenty of oil is flinging around in there.

A roller cam doesn't need near as much initial oiling as a flat tappet, but those first few minutes when the parts are getting to know eachother is just as critical - roller or not.

[Higgybulin]

The motor was already run on the dyno at Blueprint and at a much higher RPM than 2000! Parts should be married by the time the customer get his engine package
Higgy

[FLPBFoot]

Yes, the timing is now correct. I was actually doing the "brake in" run and setting the timing and such during the run that caused this. I was in bright daylight so I did not immediately see the headers glowing cherry red, but as soon as I did, I dropped it back down to idle and all cooled down. I guess the issue was that running at that 2000 RPM was just not giving it the advance it needed. (vacuum advance was disconnected and the mechanical (weights) advance needs to be at/above 2500 to advance as needed. All is good now with the vacuum hooked up.

I think the issue was the vacuum advance line was disconnected and the motor run with the timing way off. I warmed mine up, and ran it with the vacuum advance connected and checked the timing. All was spot on since it had been dyno'd. No issue with anything getting too hot even running at the 2000 rpm to check the initial timing.

I need to pick up a infrared gun so I can check various temps.

Steve

[Jeff Kleiner]

The motor was already run on the dyno at Blueprint and at a much higher RPM than 2000! Parts should be married by the time the customer get his engine package
Higgy

My thoughts exactly, not to mention that they should have already dialed the timing which is why I asked the question earlier.

Jeff

[Avalanche325]

I tried all kinds of stuff on the sidepipes, including a buffer/polisher. The only thing that works without spending hours is Compound 302.
For the headers, that is just the way they go.

You can't see any of it when you are driving down the road.

[MPTech]

Compound 302 works very well, but not sure it can completely restore your issue, but I'd definitely give it a try first.
Follow the directions closely and wear gloves! (I usually hit them with Mothers Mag Polish afterwards for a sparkly shine).