E brake routing

[doddmoore]

I have this on my build page but I wanted to put it out here as well. I am doing the "pulley mod" from EdwardB. I ordered two pulleys from McMaster and am going to mount them here where my hand is



But I must be routing my cables wrong because as you can see from the position of the metal rod ends and the cable clevis I have a ton of slack.
Here is a picture of the DS cable routing. The PS is a mirror image. The yellow lines are where I would be putting zip ties for reference.



The angle is bad so it looks like the cable comes down at an angle from the caliper but it really doesn't. It goes straight down first before being routed around the shock body.
Any help is appreciated.

[JETAV8R]

If you route them under the tube, there will be no slack.

[edwardb]

Can't help you with the specifics of the routing because I did that mod with an IRS setup. But the mod requires the cable length to be adjusted, e.g. cut shorter since they no longer go under the chassis tube. Some guys swage new ends on the cable to adjust the lengths. But what I showed in the mod was a Lokar S-8078 Parking Brake Cable Clevis. Once you cut the ends off, it will clamp the cables at the proper length and then you cut off the excess.

[FLPBFoot]

I had a ton of slack as well so I bought the Lokar cable clevis clamp and cut the cables shorter.

Below are all the details for lengthening the arms too.

This is not my doing. Copied it from Bruce but sorry dont have the thread details.

A mod of two e-brake mods
The mod described below is a combination of the e-brake mods by edwardb and carlewms. I started out planning to do just the mod by edwardb, to relocate the e-brake cables over the 4" transverse tube using pulleys. That mod was straightforward. However, the Lokar clevis hit the bottom of the e-brake bracket when the brake was engaged and, although that probably didn't have any practical effect on the integrity of the mechanism, the engineer in me didn't like it. So, I looked at the ratchet handle extension that carlewms did :

I didn't want to construct the entire handle so I opted to make handle extensions using soft steel bar (1/8" x 1/2") from McMaster-Carr. The goal was to move the clevis attachment pint another 1.5 in. from the ratchet pivot.

The side view (below) shows the pieces attached. Note also the modification to the Lokar clevis: this is the same modification done by edwardb to widen the attachment area.

The photo looking down shows the attachment from another angle as well as the spacers I put in using the steel tubing. Note the angle of the extension bars achieved using a spacer at the ratchet handle attachment pivot point. I also needed to purchase a longer shoulder screw because of the added width due to the extension bars and washers.

The view from the transmission tunnel shows the set up in place. Now the clevis assembly doesn't hit the bottom of the e-brake bracket. An additional advantage is that the angle of the cable relative to the pulley is slightly less than without the extensions somewhat mitigating the rotational force on the pulley bolt when the brake is set.

Here is a list of the parts used in the modification.

Lokar clevis: (Lok-S-8078)

Pulleys: McMaster-Carr (p/n: 3434T24)

A longer ‘shoulder screw’ for the pivot point: McMaster-Carr (p/n: 91259A622)

Steel tubing: 3/8” O.D., 1 ft. long; for spacer material (McMaster-Carr (p/n: 8910K393)

Steel stock: 1/8" Thick, 5/8" Wide, 1 ft. long; McMaster-Carr (p/n: 9922K15)

Various bolts, washers and nuts.

I can email you the document with all the photos if you like.

Steve

[doddmoore]

Can't help you with the specifics of the routing because I did that mod with an IRS setup. But the mod requires the cable length to be adjusted, e.g. cut shorter since they no longer go under the chassis tube. Some guys swage new ends on the cable to adjust the lengths. But what I showed in the mod was a Lokar S-8078 Parking Brake Cable Clevis. Once you cut the ends off, it will clamp the cables at the proper length and then you cut off the excess.

I reread your mod and realized that 1) I am an idiot and 2) you went over that. For SOME REASON when I read that mod I though that your cables were too short and that is why the Lokar clevis, was to gain length. I see now I was wrong and I get it. I have ordered the Lokar part, so off to paint the metal.

[Gumball]

I used the donor e-brake parts from a '94 SVT Cobra, including the handle, cables, and the full rear end. I did rotate the calipers from side-to-side using the flip-brackets, though, so my cables had to come into the calipers from the rear as it appears yours do.

Here are a bunch of pics of how the cables are routed and the bracket that I made for the top of the rear end housing that helps locate the cables. With 13,000 miles on the car, I've never had an issue with the e-brake system.

[tcsracing1]

would this be correct for my MKIII hand brake cable routing?

[Ducky2009]

I didn't like the idea of cutting the e-brake cables. Some people swedged new ends. I wouldn't try that at home. Just don't trust my ability to have a secure connection. They are originally done in a hydraulic press and I don't have one. Some used a Lokar Parking Brake Cable Clevis. I've never seen one so I can't comment on it.

The other problem I was seeing, the cable didn't have a straight-line pull set-up. The cables (or Lokar set-up) would rub the bottom to the mounting bracket.

Next choice, made a bracket and use the original cables without cutting them. The disadvantage of having the cables pull in a straight line, they would have to run under the frame rail. With the cable in it's sheath, I chose under.

Same idea should work the same for an MK3

E-Brake Bracket.jpg

[CraigS]

would this be correct for my MKIII hand brake cable routing?

Yes. What I don't like is the angle that the cable comes out of the bracket to the right. If you can bend or cut/weld that bracket to improve that, it would be helpful.