TKO 600 upgrade

[RickP]

I am trying to overcome yet another setback in which my rebuilt T5 is most probably kaput. Seeking those who have swapped a T5 for a TKO 600. When designing the drivetrain during the pre-build process, I made the decision to have my 87 5.0 T5 rebuilt by Bob Hanlon. At the time, based on my driveline specs, Bob noted the trans was worth rebuilding. Since then, I have a pretty stout 331 and it's always worried me if the transmission would hold up. My driving habit is a weekender car where I may WOT next to that rice burner every so often. I don't bang the gears or slip shift.

My first major setback I had to overcome was I had simply built too much compression into the engine. This resulted in having the mill completely torn down and rebuilt to a more street friendly engine package. Taking on the original engine build myself was a calculated risk in that I have never built an engine before but I wanted to learn. Let's just say I have the world's most expensive SBF. That problem is now behind me.

I had the tear down performed by a local mechanic who is semi-retired. I had to twist his arm to take on the work and probably should have stepped away since his heart wasn't really in it. That's all water under the bridge now but personally speaking, I've had to redo/recheck a lot of his work. Most notable is I have been chasing an oil leak at the bell housing which I think I have a pretty good hold of at this point.

Now the problem;

I would notice (1100 miles driven thus far), a slight whine coming from the transmission whenever I either "got on it" OR traveling for any distance down a highway in the overdrive 5th gear. Thinking maybe the transmission would whine when hot, maybe the case was down on fluid. I had plans regardless to pull the transmission regardless to inspect the main seal and flywheel bolts (mechanic red thread locked them) to look for more oil leaks and when doing so, I decided to check the fluid level in the trans. After noticing I could not feel any fluid on my finger in the fill hole, I decided to drain it completely. I opened up the drain plug expecting about 2.5 quarts of red ATF Dex to come flying out only to see about 2 tablespoons of the blackest of black fluid seep out. Obviously, my heart sank into my chest knowing the reason for the whine was the case was completely dry.


I digress;


I don't know where 2.5 quarts of fluid went. It's a question I will soon figure out I suspect. My mind has two general thoughts at this point.

1. The transmission was leaking somewhere other than the tail housing. I say this because I have my eyes on the tail housing ALL the time.
2. The mechanic who rebuilt the engine pulled the drivetrain as one unit and delivered the car back to me with an empty trans case.

It really doesn't matter at this point the reason for the failure as I already know the transmission would need to be repaired or completely rebuilt. In facing a big decision I have seriously considered the notion of ditching the T5 for a brand new TKO 600. That I believe comes with some cause and effects such as;

1. I will need a Quicktime bell housing.
2. I will need a different clutch.
3. I think I will need a different yoke.

My biggest concern is installing the TKO into a driveline package without removing the motor. My task today is to pull the existing T5 (with bell housing) from the car so I can further inspect. In doing so, I am scratching my head if fitting a TKO into this space is even doable. I DO NOT want to pull the motor. Just too many things go sideways when that's done (ask me how I know).



So my inquiry to the gang is this doable? Should I rebuild the T5 again? Is there anything I have not thought of in what I will need if I do decide to upgrade.


RickP

[GoDadGo]

Rick,

We all end up with some Do-Overs & Re-Workings, so my recommendation is to pull the driveline, and upgrade to the TKO-500 or TKO-600 unit.... I personally feel like it is way easier to mate your engine to your transmission when the stuff is out of the car....

Though financially painful, you'll be happier in the end knowing that you've got a new transmission in the car that can take anything your right foot can give it.... Also, pulling the engine will allow you to address any issues that you want to repair and/or even change..

We had to replace the block because my former motor mentor (Semi-Retired Machinist & Engine Builder) messed mine up beyond repair.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/albu...chmentid=52543
I've known this man and used his shop since I was Pedro's age (aka: Baby Go-Dad) so if I can over come the bumps, then so can you.

Good Luck From The Dark Dart Side!

Steve

[RickP]

Rick,

We all end up with some Do-Overs & Re-Workings, so my recommendation is to pull the driveline, and upgrade to the TKO-500 or TKO-600 unit.... I personally feel like it is way easier to mate your engine to your transmission when the stuff is out of the car....

Though financially painful, you'll be happier in the end knowing that you've got a new transmission in the car that can take anything your right foot can give it.... Also, pulling the engine will allow you to address any issues that you want to repair and/or even change..

We had to replace the block because my former motor mentor (Semi-Retired Machinist & Engine Builder) messed mine up beyond repair.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/albu...chmentid=52543
I've known this man and used his shop since I was Pedro's age (aka: Baby Go-Dad) so if I can over come the bumps, then so can you.

Good Luck From The Dark Dart Side!

Steve

probably some sound advice Steve. I'd hate to yank the motor at this point though. I spent an enormous amount of time getting my side pipes aligned, body cutouts etc. I've yanked the motor 3 times. 4 if you include the "rebuild". About 5 minutes ago I was able to separate the old T5 from the engine. Found I had to first clear the input shaft from the clutch and then separate the tranny from the bell housing. You can't (or at least I can't see a way) to drop the transmission and bell housing as one unit. Where there is a will, there is a way!

After careful inspection of the front "mating" end of the transmission, the input shaft seal is leaking. Not that there is any fluid in the case to actually see it leaking but it's wet. That's where I suspect the fluid went overtime and probably contributed to what I was seeing at the bell housing drip. Certainly doesn't help matters. I'm about to go yank the clutch. I suspect it's a mess.

Another question I have. The shifter location of a T5 can only land in one place. Which my trans tunnel is not only cut too but covered and finished too. On a TKO, will the rear most shift location land in the same place taking into consideration I ditch the OEM 87 Ford Bellhousing for the QuickTime?

[weendoggy]

If this is a MKIII or newer, the TKO should fit fine. If a MKI or II, you may end up with some items to consider. I put a TKO500 (imo, enough for you) in my MKI and had to do some trimming of the rear mount pad. I also installed diagonal bracing (kit doesn't have) but made sure it would clear the TKO. MKI and II's are a tight fit due to a narrower tunnel. As for the shift lever position, you should be OK, but I would measure to make sure. I put a new tunnel cover on mine and used the mid-shift position.

Now, trying to fit that in a MKI or II without having the engine out is going to be a real PITA. I made my tunnel top removable to allow it to be removed with engine in. It's also about 24# heavier.

I would also definitely put the QT bell housing in. You don't need the SFI rated one.

fyi, I beat the heck out of my old T5 for 17yrs doing (3) track weekends/year and not having any issues behind my 331. It had 72k on it since I rebuilt it in '99 and a lot of road trips as well. They are a stout tranny.

[RickP]

If this is a MKIII or newer, the TKO should fit fine. If a MKI or II, you may end up with some items to consider. I put a TKO500 (imo, enough for you) in my MKI and had to do some trimming of the rear mount pad. I also installed diagonal bracing (kit doesn't have) but made sure it would clear the TKO. MKI and II's are a tight fit due to a narrower tunnel. As for the shift lever position, you should be OK, but I would measure to make sure. I put a new tunnel cover on mine and used the mid-shift position.

Now, trying to fit that in a MKI or II without having the engine out is going to be a real PITA. I made my tunnel top removable to allow it to be removed with engine in. It's also about 24# heavier.

I would also definitely put the QT bell housing in. You don't need the SFI rated one.

fyi, I beat the heck out of my old T5 for 17yrs doing (3) track weekends/year and not having any issues behind my 331. It had 72k on it since I rebuilt it in '99 and a lot of road trips as well. They are a stout tranny.

It's an MK4. Another thing that concerns me is the width of a TKO. I had to trim off the front stock mount tab as it was in contact with the brake handle mounting tab. I have my e brake mounted on the side of the tunnel so the tab on the tranny was sacrificed. I am really torn between the upgrade (big pocket of change coupled with a difficult installation) vs. taking the T5 back to Bob Hanlon and having him go over the unit once again. Even if the leak seen at the input shaft was not enough to cause the case to be empty of fluid, I know without even opening the cover the input shaft gear at a minimum is probably done. Based on the black that dripped out of it during draining is not a good sign anything in it is worth salvaging.

[weendoggy]

If you haven't got the new TKO, check the T5 and see if it's worth fixing. If so, maybe just keep it and move forward. I Still have my T5 and was in good shape after all I put it through. I would still replace the bell housing. Basically it's a $$ game for you and you'll have to weigh the cost difference.

[RickP]

If you haven't got the new TKO, check the T5 and see if it's worth fixing. If so, maybe just keep it and move forward. I Still have my T5 and was in good shape after all I put it through. I would still replace the bell housing. Basically it's a $$ game for you and you'll have to weigh the cost difference.

Its a money game and a piece of mind game at this point. I had 1,000 bucks wrapped up in the T5 which included powder coating the case. My original intention was to run it until it broke. Unfortunately for me, I have crossed that bridge.

[weendoggy]

True, but if you keep the T5, you don't need a new yoke and/or driveline, don't need new clutch (unless it's bad), and it'll go back in fine. You don't need a new clutch with the TKO, just make sure you order it with a 10 spline input.

[Derald Rice]

I have a TKO600 in a MK2 with a narrowed trans tunnel. Narrowed about 1.5 inches on both sides so that my seats sit straight with the car. Even with the narrowed tunnel the 600 fits, so the width on your MK4 should not be any problem.

Bob Hanlon built my 600 with his upgrades, and it is probably the smoothest manual trans that I have ever used.

You will need a new yoke and a new, slightly shorter driveshaft, and a new cliutch. You might get lucky with the trans cover, but be prepared to change it if necessary. Nice to have will be the Quicktime BH, upgraded u-joints, and an upgraded shifter. Hanlon uses pro 5.0 shifters.

Pulling and installing the engine and trans is my preferred method, but it can be a hassle. Especially if the trans is already unbolted, and also if your hoist will not reach from the front of the car.

You already have the right guy to do the work, so I would be talking to Bob and getting his advise. Maybe there will be some credit for your rebuiidable T5.

[RickP]

I didn't even consider needing a shorter driveshaft.

[GoDadGo]

Rick,

Could you just get a new T-5?
Would the "World Class" version be strong enough to get you down the road without breaking the bank?

Check out the link below:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...CABEgKoS_D_BwE

Steve

[RickP]

Rick,

Could you just get a new T-5?
Would the "World Class" version be strong enough to get you down the road without breaking the bank?

Check out the link below:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...CABEgKoS_D_BwE

Steve

The thought has crossed my mind Steve. It would certainly relieve the financial strain as I could use the existing drivetrain parts. I think what I am going to do tomorrow is give Bob Hanlon a buzz and get on his radar. He lives very close to me and it would be prudent to have him take a peek at the current state of affairs as well as get his advice. Heck, for all I know he may have a used TKO laying around that he's already done a rebuild on that he's itching to sell.

Just as a quick estimate in my head.

Upgrading the driveline to a TKO 500/600 would set me back about 4,000. Rebuilding the current T5 (which I think is a WC) would cost about 700. Definitely need a new clutch and flywheel needs to be resurfaced. Also, I've heard many kick a t5 around like Weendoggy but I have also heard many on the other end of the spectrum. A recent conversation with Mike Forte indicated I will burn the T5 up in short order.

I will say this, even with the case dry, it shifted like buttah.

[weendoggy]

My final thoughts: If you plan on driving the car as you say and not doing a LOT of track time and/or just beating it as hard as you can, I'd put it back in (rebuilt of course). Put a new clutch etc. (I'd put a new ACT flywheel instead of resurface) and new QT bell housing and drive the damn thing. This should put you back about $1k, minus your trans work. Less stress, everything fits, etc. The additional $$ for the TKO is going to be another $3+k and a bit more work. Now, if it can't be rebuilt, you're back to square one. Good luck.

[caesarmascetti]

The thought has crossed my mind Steve. It would certainly relieve the financial strain as I could use the existing drivetrain parts. I think what I am going to do tomorrow is give Bob Hanlon a buzz and get on his radar. He lives very close to me and it would be prudent to have him take a peek at the current state of affairs as well as get his advice. Heck, for all I know he may have a used TKO laying around that he's already done a rebuild on that he's itching to sell.

Just as a quick estimate in my head.

Upgrading the driveline to a TKO 500/600 would set me back about 4,000. Rebuilding the current T5 (which I think is a WC) would cost about 700. Definitely need a new clutch and flywheel needs to be resurfaced. Also, I've heard many kick a t5 around like Weendoggy but I have also heard many on the other end of the spectrum. A recent conversation with Mike Forte indicated I will burn the T5 up in short order.

I will say this, even with the case dry, it shifted like buttah.

Hey Rick sorry to hear this, FWIW I spoke with Mark Dougherty when I bought my Cobra 347 10:1 comp and it has a T5, according to Mark its a fine trasmission and fine with the 347 so I'm thinking it's probably fine with your's too. Forte has brand new ones for around 1700 shipped.

[GoDadGo]

Rick,

My vote, if I get one, is to double down and spend the money.
Yes, it stinks, but your car will be better in the end.
Good Luck & Happy Wrenching!

Steve

[caesarmascetti]

Rick,

Could you just get a new T-5?
Would the "World Class" version be strong enough to get you down the road without breaking the bank?

Check out the link below:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...CABEgKoS_D_BwE

Steve

Hey Rick one more thing to consider, the 325hp rating (and there is some wiggle room to the up side on this rating) of the most recent T5 is SAE Net hp, that is with all accessories connected to the engine. Most crate engines are dynoed on a stand and I do believe correct me if Im wrong quote SAE gross. This means at 325hp net it's actually capable of handling 380hp gross again just with the rating at face value and I guarantee you they underrate the transmission for liability reason by another 10-15%. Just some more food for thought

[CraigS]

There are other gear sets for T5s that are much stronger than the stock gears. I have no experience w/ them but, from what I read, they will handle your 331 fine. And everything else will still bolt up. When you add up all the extra parts you will need to go TKO 600 I am not sure it's worth it. Another option is a TKO 500. You don't have the ratio selection of the 600 but it is a similar trans. Maybe someone knows how many other parts would need to be replaced. I wonder if you could re-use your bell housing. My TKO500 is bolted to an aluminum OE type housing but I didn't put it together so don't know the details. Would be worth the research to not need to pay for a new bell.

[RickP]

I spoke to Bob Hanlon today. He didn't seem to concerned whether or not the e T5 he built for me will handle whatever punishment I dole out to it. We agreed the best approach would be to bring the T5 back to his shop so he can access the situation. Of course, anything he built and or needs to repair won't work properly if the case does not have fluid. No duh!

So we got to talking about where 3 quarts of ATF would go. After rethinking about the moisture underneath the input shaft I feel when running my finger on it, is not enough to allow 3 quarts of ATF to pass thru it. Maybe in 15 years it could but I would see streaking down the front of the case which I do not. So this is where experience trumps what a guy like me thinks or sees. He said he's seen customers with fox body setups lose fluid via the yoke and only occurs when the car is moving. Essentially the yoke becomes sloppy on the output shaft and you will see oil mist sprayed in around on the driveshaft. You can also see this mist spray on the rear bumper of a fox body. Well, I sure as heck see mist as he describes. I have been wiping it down from time to time only thinking this was residual oil from a drip I have been trying to address at the bell housing. Maybe not engine oil, rather ATF.

In any event, I will run the T5 back to him and he can access. From there, I can make a educated decision and what to do. Like is the yoke situation preventable? I don't know.


Regarding the oil drip at the bellhousing. So I had this engine completely torn down and rebuilt by a local mechanic. The net effect is I had originally built too much compression into the mill which ended up with a blown head gasket in short order. In addressing where this leak could be coming from, I added dye to the crank case and could clearly see it was coming from the top of the motor. Notably the heads. Not believing oil can get past the heads, I first addressed the valve covers. Leak persisted. I then replaced the intake manifold and paid extra attention to where the intake intersects the block and head. Leak persists but was viably less noticeable. Slowly losing confidence in the work this mechanic performed as each item was being addressed.


The deeper you dig:

Since I had the tranny out, I pulled the clutch and flywheel. The very first thing I noticed is the flywheel bolts came out wet. This motor has a stroker crank in it and the holes are blind. In short, the mechanic installed the bolts dry. No sealant or even thread locker. That's where I think my remaining oil leak is originating from. The pilot bearing looks ok to me. Which brings me to the main seal.

I can see oil dripping right below the main seal at the oil pan gasket. I have replaced the oil pan gasket twice myself for an oil pump swap(s) using a fel-pro one piece rubber gasket. I can't say for certain but I think the oil is originating from the flywheel bolt holes. However, here is a pic of the main seal. Why on earth would said mechanic use grey RTV on the top portion of the main seals seal. Looks like he troweled it on. Why did he do this? Is he compensating for a much much bigger issue? Why?

[Avalanche325]

You can't be leaking oil from blind holes in the crank. Blind means they don't go all the way through. Blind bolts should have loc-tite.
If what you mean is through-holes. They should have thread sealer. Generally 351s have blind holes, and 302s have through holes. Aftermarket cranks may vary.

SBFs are notorious for leaking in two places back there. 1. The rear main seal itself. Depending on what seal you use, depends on whether it goes on wet or dry. Old school - wet. New Teflon type - dry. If you don't get the combination correct, it will leak.

2. The corners where the oil pan gasket goes from the round part to the flat part. Even with a one piece gasket, many people put a dab of RTV in those corners.

Putting a smear of RTV on the rear main bearing cap mating surface is pretty standard. Some people recommend a little smear on the outer mating surface for the seal. That is probably what you are seeing.

I am betting / hoping it is your flywheel bolts.

[rich grsc]

You can't be leaking oil from blind holes in the crank. Blind means they don't go all the way through. Blind bolts should have loc-tite.
If what you mean is through-holes. They should have thread sealer. Generally 351s have blind holes, and 302s have through holes. Aftermarket cranks may vary.

SBFs are notorious for leaking in two places back there. 1. The rear main seal itself. Depending on what seal you use, depends on whether it goes on wet or dry. Old school - wet. New Teflon type - dry. If you don't get the combination correct, it will leak.

2. The corners where the oil pan gasket goes from the round part to the flat part. Even with a one piece gasket, many people put a dab of RTV in those corners.

Putting a smear of RTV on the rear main bearing cap mating surface is pretty standard. Some people recommend a little smear on the outer mating surface for the seal. That is probably what you are seeing.

I am betting / hoping it is your flywheel bolts.

Where did you get this info??? Its very rare that a rear seal leaks on a SBF. I have yet to see one personally, and I've been around engines my whole life.

[RickP]

You can't be leaking oil from blind holes in the crank. Blind means they don't go all the way through. Blind bolts should have loc-tite.
If what you mean is through-holes. They should have thread sealer. Generally 351s have blind holes, and 302s have through holes. Aftermarket cranks may vary.

SBFs are notorious for leaking in two places back there. 1. The rear main seal itself. Depending on what seal you use, depends on whether it goes on wet or dry. Old school - wet. New Teflon type - dry. If you don't get the combination correct, it will leak.

2. The corners where the oil pan gasket goes from the round part to the flat part. Even with a one piece gasket, many people put a dab of RTV in those corners.

Putting a smear of RTV on the rear main bearing cap mating surface is pretty standard. Some people recommend a little smear on the outer mating surface for the seal. That is probably what you are seeing.

I am betting / hoping it is your flywheel bolts.

I got a little ahead of myself in saying they were blind holes in crank. They appear to be blind but in reality, there is a cavity in there. Shine a light in the drain plug hole and I can see light through the bolt hole. As for the main seal, I don't know if it's an old school thing or not to smear RTV on the seal but depending on the material of the seal, I think that might not be a good thing. I see a drip right at the pan gasket but no clue where it's originating from so I am replacing the main seal, pan gasket, and resealing the bolt holes when the fly wheel eventually goes back on.

[Murd]

As others have said you can have a stronger T5 built. You can have a G-Force T5 built with the same ratings as a tko 600 or 500 for likely less than the cost of A tko, everything will bolt right up and it will shift much better.
T5z might do the trick too.

As far as losing all the ATF, I have a slip yoke seal leak on my newly built T5, I’ve put about 500 miles on it and the fluid loss is very minor, I tried filling it back up and it was still basically full, but also leaves a small puddle whenever I park after driving, it runs off the 4” round tube frame cross member under the transmission.

Anyway, I don’t think that’s where all your ATF went, I think it would have stopped leaking with more left in the case, and that’s a lot of fluid to have to go through the seal, you would have had giant puddles under it

[RickP]

As others have said you can have a stronger T5 built. You can have a G-Force T5 built with the same ratings as a tko 600 or 500 for likely less than the cost of A tko, everything will bolt right up and it will shift much better.
T5z might do the trick too.

As far as losing all the ATF, I have a slip yoke seal leak on my newly built T5, I’ve put about 500 miles on it and the fluid loss is very minor, I tried filling it back up and it was still basically full, but also leaves a small puddle whenever I park after driving, it runs off the 4” round tube frame cross member under the transmission.

Anyway, I don’t think that’s where all your ATF went, I think I would have stopped leaking with more left in the case, and that’s a lot of fluid to have to go through the seal, you would have hade giant puddles under it

I’m definitely not seeing or haven’t seen any puddles under the car at any point but I sure have seen misting of fluid up underneath the car. Even up under the trans tunnel. The only other way I can imagine all that fluid would go is if the mechanic drained the tranny when he pulled the engine and neglected to fill the Case back up. I really don’t know at this point. I just don’t want it happening again.

[caesarmascetti]

I’m definitely not seeing or haven’t seen any puddles under the car at any point but I sure have seen misting of fluid up underneath the car. Even up under the trans tunnel. The only other way I can imagine all that fluid would go is if the mechanic drained the tranny when he pulled the engine and neglected to fill the Case back up. I really don’t know at this point. I just don’t want it happening again.

Keep the faith Rick, as you know I had my share of oil leaks and have stopped most of them. When they did my rear main seal I had the "sleeve" it as well just as added insurance. As for the tranny question the simplest answer is usually the right one, I'd bet on the mechanic draining it and not refilling it

[Avalanche325]

Where did you get this info??? Its very rare that a rear seal leaks on a SBF. I have yet to see one personally, and I've been around engines my whole life.

Just poking fun here, but this list is true:

1. Books.
2. Magazines
3. Engine builders
4. This and the other Cobra forum
5. Mustang forums
6. Personal experience (I had 1 that leaked out of 4 SBFs)
7. The internet in general

Besides that, I just whipped it up out of thin air.

A survey done on Club Cobra a while back asked "Does your rear main seal leak?". There was close to 40% that said "yes".

If you never saw a rope seal leak? You must be under 50 years old.

[Mark Dougherty]

Rick
Hanlon is the best for all things TREMIC.

For the pics you posted it looks like the rear of the pan gasket has pushed out as the pan gasket was installed.
as far as the plastering the RTV on the upper half it is an attempt to stop leaks.
It looks crude but normally works.
the same is normally done to the bottom also.

[Big Blocker]

Three things in life are absolutely true: Flat roofs leak, wet dogs stink AND older SBF's with rope seals weep (not the same as leaking).

That being said, the newer blocks with the newer style seals don't leak unless the Bozo ( <--- loose term for an in-experienced wrench turner ) installing it doesn't do it correctly.

Doc

Avalanche, I'm about to be 70 . . .

[RickP]

Rick
Hanlon is the best for all things TREMIC.

For the pics you posted it looks like the rear of the pan gasket has pushed out as the pan gasket was installed.
as far as the plastering the RTV on the upper half it is an attempt to stop leaks.
It looks crude but normally works.
the same is normally done to the bottom also.

Hey Mark -

I just got done about an hour ago before reading this post replacing the oil pan gasket. I had used a one piece FelPro previously, this time I installed a Ford Performance one piece. Looks darn near identical to the FelPro. As for the main seal, I don't think it was leaking and I have no idea why the gray RTV is smeared only across the top. In any event, I replaced it as well. Again, a Ford Performance part. Spread a little oil on the inside of the seal and a thin layer of RTV on the outside. Fit nice and snug going in.


Yep, Hanlon is the man! I'm taking the T5 back to him on Thursday so he can access. I am all prepared for him to rib me some for letting the case run dry.

[cgundermann]

It’s been mentioned several times -

I used an all new G-Force T-5 from Jeg’s and it’s rated at 600HP/500TQ. Shifts like butter and bolted perfectly in. Both Astro & G-Force used to fortify existing/used T-5s and finally, G-Force produced an all “new” unit. I love it, but it’s not cheap.

Just another option...

Chris

[Avalanche325]

That being said, the newer blocks with the newer style seals don't leak unless the Bozo ( <--- loose term for an in-experienced wrench turner ) installing it doesn't do it correctly.

Guilty as charged! My leaker was a a Teflon one was one that I lubed.

bozo 2.png

[rich grsc]

Thus, my comment.

[RickP]

You know those kind of threads where you invest your time and advice never to hear or learn what the outcome was? I aim not to be that guy.


I had Bob Hanlon rebuild the T-5. It wasn't bad but the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears were pretty burned up. I had a long conversation with him regarding the fluid loss. The only conclusion we could come up with is the shop I had perform a rebuild of my motor removed the fluid. In the end, I will never know but I sure will be keeping a closer eye on it.

While I had the transmission out, I decided to address an oil leak visible at the bell housing. This problem wetted my Cobra clutch to a point where it was definitely slipping. I replaced the main seal with a ford part, and also decided to drop the pan and replace the gasket with a ford part. I had my flywheel resurfaced and installed a new RAM clutch.

The biggest job was getting the transmission back in the car. Doing this by myself and a transmission jack was more tedious than it was difficult. Just lots of little systems associated with the transmission that make it a job I really don't want to face again.

All in all, I feel whole again. I was even able to get the car turned over and running again this past weekend. Now if the weather would cooperate, I can get it out on the road and test out all my hard work.

Next up, I aim to swap out the FFR supplied Clutch cable for a Ford cable and install Mike Forte's clutch extender. The new RAM clutch is way stiffer than the Cobra clutch I was running before.

[Avalanche325]

I am glad that you are getting it back together. I just did a rebuild / upgrade on my TKO-600 at X-mas. I finally got rid of the leak that it had since day one.