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Thread: Wyoming GTM Underway

  1. #241
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Got the steering wheel changed today and work on the back hatch again. I worked on aligning the hatch door making adjustments in the hinges in an attempt to get it centered better in the opening and got the lift cylinders installed so trying to adjust to a happy medium that I can work with. It did not come out exactly like I wanted it but it opens and closes without hitting wing and when all the way open it does not touch the body either so for now will live with it the way it is. I did get the hatch hinges from Shane (VRaptor Speedworks) and they would have worked just fine it I had not run the CAI the way I did, but would rather change to the lifts or possible modify Shane's hinges, I will look at possibly modifying the when I return from the lake. Off in a family outing Sunday for a week so will cut into my build progress but will keep everyone else happy especially the wife.... So to here are some pictures of the hatch again with the hinges installed showing the alignment and how it is now sitting:

    IMG_0140.jpg IMG_0141.jpg IMG_0142.jpg IMG_0143.jpg IMG_0144.jpg

    And here is the new steering wheel installed and it does make it easier the get in and out of the GTM:

    IMG_0139.jpg

  2. #242
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Crash,

    I have a question, can you run or have you run a small permanent by-pass before the heater control valve (assuming you are using the on supplied by Vintage Air) to insure water on both sides of the thermostat? Seem you could add a 1/4" - 3/8" Tee and by-pass a small flow to insure there is always water on the thermostat. Just asking the question as then no matter what happens to the heater control valve there will always be flow on both side of the thermostat.

  3. #243
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    James.....have you tried installing the hatch props both ways? With your intake like that, it looks like things will be pretty tight, but you might try installing with the short links on the props to the hinge links and attach the long links to the hatch?
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  4. #244

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    You could try that. I have not. I figure there is a reason these valves exist. If it were as easy as a small bypass, I don't know why the OEMs would go to the cost and trouble of making the bypass valve?

    Quote Originally Posted by jamesfr58 View Post
    Crash,

    I have a question, can you run or have you run a small permanent by-pass before the heater control valve (assuming you are using the on supplied by Vintage Air) to insure water on both sides of the thermostat? Seem you could add a 1/4" - 3/8" Tee and by-pass a small flow to insure there is always water on the thermostat. Just asking the question as then no matter what happens to the heater control valve there will always be flow on both side of the thermostat.
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  5. #245
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash View Post
    You could try that. I have not. I figure there is a reason these valves exist. If it were as easy as a small bypass, I don't know why the OEMs would go to the cost and trouble of making the bypass valve?
    Probably just for cabin comfort, keeping that hot coolant out of the cabin unless the heater is on?
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
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  6. #246
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Thanks Shane, I will look at installing them again had planned on doing that but been gone for a week so have not had a chance yet. Hopefully will get to some this week before I leave for the NASCAR races in Vegas next weekend.

  7. #247
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    You guys might be right to keep heat out of the cabin but is running the Infinity box temperature control it will use but heat and air to control the interior temperature as happens in OEM installation in other cars. That is why I was asking the question Mike as I had not seen any try this configuration either.

  8. #248
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesfr58 View Post
    Crash,

    I have a question, can you run or have you run a small permanent by-pass before the heater control valve (assuming you are using the on supplied by Vintage Air) to insure water on both sides of the thermostat? Seem you could add a 1/4" - 3/8" Tee and by-pass a small flow to insure there is always water on the thermostat. Just asking the question as then no matter what happens to the heater control valve there will always be flow on both side of the thermostat.
    We're going to find out. I see no reason this would not work. I just purchased a "manual" coolant shut-off from NAPA for the 5/8 hose to the heater core as well as 2 Tee fittings....one for the 5/8 coolant hose and one for the 3/4 coolant hose...both tees have a 3/8" T in the center.....so the 3/4 hose and 5/8 hose will be permanently connected with a 3/8 hose. When the petcock is closed in the manual shut off, that will dead-head the 5/8 line to the heater core and 100% of the coolant will have to run thru the 3/8 tee into the 3/4 hose. When the petcock is open (if you want heat for the winter) coolant can flow thru the heater core as well as the 3/8 tee. I plan on installing the shut off up front under the hood near the heater core so it's accessible whenever winter rolls around and you want to run coolant thru the heater core.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  9. #249
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Well, got the third brake light working today, had to dig back into the Infinity Box system and rework the wiring. Of course I had already removed all the unused wires from the Master Cell and the rear Power Cell, so had to add a control wire back in the Master Cell that took some time and add a wire back to the rear power cell, not to bad to get this task done. I had wired the lights, turn and brake lights as mentioned in previous post but when trying to wire the third brake light it finally dawned on me that if I tied it into one of the lead to the rear lights then the third brake light would blink with the turn signal or at least I figured it would so used another circuit on the power cell to power the rear brake light. Here is a picture of the back with the third brake light wired:

    IMG_0159.jpg

    Here it is with the drivers side turn signal on and the passenger side and third brake light on:

    IMG_0160.jpg

    I never tried it wired into one of the 1 element wires to the rear lights and really not sure if it would have worked or flashed with turn signal on the side it was wired to but know it will work this way.

  10. #250
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Well made it back from Las Vegas and the first race of the NASCAR play off races. It was hot (100 + during the day) there like last year but at least they moved the races to night races instead of the middle of the day. The weather was good and here is picture of the full moon on the night of the truck races.

    IMG_0166.jpg

    Got the air flow straightener (vane straightener) installed in place in the Y upstream of the MAF so should help with the close quarters of my CAI system.

    IMG_0171.jpg

  11. #251
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Reinstalled the J pipes with direct contact insulation pads attached and covered the cats with direct contact insulation as well. You can also see in the picture that the started is insulated from the heat as everything is tight, and I am trying to mitigate heat soak into other areas where it is not wanted.

    IMG_0170.jpg IMG_0176.jpg IMG_0177.jpg

  12. #252
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Installed the exhaust pipe to check fitment in body and clearance to other equipment I might need to protect from the heat as well. The silicone fitting on the CAI should take the heat with no issues.

    IMG_0172.jpg IMG_0173.jpg IMG_0174.jpg

  13. #253
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Reinstalled the CAI and routed the air filter into the space behind the cutouts on the body. This was my solution to getting them there with my configurations. Will see how it work with the remaining wheel enclosure and may design something to keep them segregated from everything else in the rear of the car.

    IMG_0169.jpg IMG_0175.jpg

  14. #254
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Wanted to post a picture of the seat I used sitting on sliders in the GTM with the seat back tilted all the way forward. The seat back can move all the way back until you hit the window wall and all the way forward toward the steering wheel and still clear the roof of the GTM. If you can find the right size seat (these were for a fox body mustang. replacement racing seats) they will fit in the car, clear the rood and not het the window glass in the door. Took me two try's to get it right and I still have a set of seat that were to tall to sell but finally got it right.

    IMG_0178.jpg

  15. #255
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Installed the window wall this morning, had to adjust a couple of things as it did not fit, the cut outs would hit the roll over bars before it went all the way back against frame for mounting. But after a little messaging and a small redo on the upholstery it is finally in and looks pretty good. Won't install the glass until I install it for the final time and it seems I have to install and remove the parts several times to get them to fit the way I want them to. Here is what the window wall looks like installed.

    IMG_0179.jpg IMG_0180.jpg IMG_0181.jpg

  16. #256
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Well thought I would post this as it is the single biggest fubar moment so far building the GTM. When I discovered it, I almost wanted to have a full blown come apart, but at the end of the day sucked it up and started to correct the problem.

    Some how or some where when assembling the transmission to the engine I lost or left out the retaining spring for the clutch release lever pivot that ensures the lever stays in place and does not move. Found this problem when I had to remove the clutch slave cylinder that was leaking around seal on piston. Now the clutch slave cylinder was new (it was a Centric) but I could bleed the clutch and have it working and within a few days it would bleed down enough you had to bleed it again. So, we took the slave cylinder off and removed the boot, you could see it leaking slowly past the piston in the slave cylinder, so I order a new one a different brand this time.

    While taking the slave cylinder out I noticed I could move the clutch release lever, which is not supposed to move around on the shaft. So made the decision to remove the transmission to locate the problem. After some time and disassembly of the back of the car we got the transmission pulled and upon inspection notice the retaining spring for the clutch release lever pivot pin was missing, not setting in the bottom of the bell housing just plain missing in action. So back online to order new parts but this time I order all new parts for the throw out bearing (which was new) and replace the older parts that cam with the transmission so it got a Guide Tube for Clutch Release Bearing, Ball Pin for Clutch Release Lever, Clutch Release Lever, Sealing Washer for Clutch Release Lever and the infamous Retaining Spring for Clutch Release Lever Pivot.
    Parts should arrive today and by tomorrow I should be putting all back to gather again with all the parts in the bell housing and hopefully the clutch will work now with the new slave cylinder. I was getting ready to drive for the first time so good thing we caught it now. Here are some pictures of the GTM disassembled and the part missing the $ 1.75 spring…….

    IMG_0182.jpg IMG_0183.jpg IMG_0184.jpg

    Here is where the spring goes and holds the lever to the pivot pin and the lever in place:

    IMG_0185.jpg IMG_0186.jpg

  17. #257
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    On the brighter side at least I know you can get the transmission out with all the other parts in place (with the body off), not sure it could be done with the body on as the cross member on the bottom prevents it from coming out the bottom side. This would be a good place for a removable crossmember like production cars so if one had to pull the tranny you could remove the cross member and remove by lowering from underside of car.

  18. #258
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    While waiting on parts I am gone ahead and started fitting the back wall in the cockpit. Since the window wall was set and in place before we removed the body I can finish the remain back wall sections with the body off with the exception of the corner pieces that need the body in place to finish. It came out well I thing and since I have a good tight fit, believe it will seal up without having to add the extra piece between the back wall and the tunnel to take up space. Here are some pictures of the passengers side, still working on drivers side.

    IMG_0187.jpg IMG_0188.jpg IMG_0189.jpg

  19. #259
    Procision-Auto's Avatar
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    Very nice work, I like the colour of the rear firewall.

    What are the hard lines running in front of the water pump?
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  20. #260
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    The hard lines that run in front of the water pump (follow the frame and are gold in color) are from the water pump and the steam vents on the passengers side of the car to the header tank on the drivers side of the car. It cut down on the amount of hose crossing over in the tunnel and made of a clean install. The waterfall fits over them without and issue and it was easier to hole the hard lines in place than the hoses. The darker colored hard lines are fabricated radiator lines, they are hard piped through the tunnel and connect on bot ends with silicone fittings. Hope this answers you question

    IMG_2047.jpg

  21. #261
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Well got my $1.75 spring for the shift lever and the other new part installed and transmission is not ready to go back in. Here is a picture of the spring as it clips onto the ball pin and holds the lever in place, along with the other new parts installed.

    IMG_0192.jpg IMG_0193.jpg

  22. #262
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    And since I had the transmission out I decided to look for better mating flanges for the CV joints. Not sure is anyone else has had any problems with this but the normal Porsche CV joint mating flanges for the year of Porsche transmission I have are very hard if not impossible to keep the CV joint boot in place. I tried the normal crimp on bands and now have bands that tighten like hose clamps. The boot would eventually pop off the mating flange given enough time and movement. So I set out the find a better mating flange design and ran across this on shown in a side by side comparison. The aftermarket mating flange has a lip and grove to help keep the CV joint boot on the flange and they appear to work great. I wanted to get this done since the tranny was out and access was fairly simple. Thought I would pass this along as they really din make a big difference and now I don't have to worry the CV boot will pop off the mating flange.

    IMG_0191.jpg

    The one on the left is the normal mating flange with CV boot attachment you would get for sat Pelican Parts, the one on the right is the new ones I found on Parts Geek that have a groove and ridge on the mating flange for the clamp to fit into with the ridge keeping the whole thing in place.

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  24. #263
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Interior starting to look like a car..... got the other back wall (tank cover) installed on the drivers side and will final fit the waterfall today. Next step will be to put the window wall back glass in and that portion of the interior will be done. Also have transmission repaired and hope to get one of my boys to help me reinstall it today so I can begin to put all the pieces I removed back on to the GTM. The engine compartment is coming out like I wanted with the heat reflection covering in place so onward and upward...…

    IMG_0194.jpg IMG_0195.jpg IMG_0196.jpg IMG_0197.jpg

  25. #264
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Tino,

    The lighter color in my interior scheme is called Cashew, it will also run over the top (headliner) and on the dash to where it meets the darker color called Persimmon that used in the lower half of the interior. Decided to use the darker color where it can get the dirtiest from just everyday use (shoes etc.), and the seats will be recovered in both colors. The two compliment each other and the pictures really don't the contract you can see in person. I hope to paint the exterior Tangerine Pearl but not there yet and still may change my mind of the exterior color. Thought you might like to know the colors used on the interior.

  26. #265
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Looking good! Always exciting to be putting stuff back together for (hopefully) the final time!
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  27. #266
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Well getting it back together again after making the repairs to the transmission and CV joints. The new mating flanges work great and the CV joint boots slip over the lip and stay on the mating flange with out any issues os they did the job and the boot is not falling off anymore. Al got the glass in the window wall and the wall reinstalled so all moving along good now.

    IMG_0198.jpg

  28. #267
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    James you are moving right along keep up the good work. it definitely has your spin for all the custom and color matching work.

    Steve

  29. #268
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Great progress, James. Sorry you had to pull the transaxle...But every time you do something like that you get better at it...
    Any concerns with venting the gas tanks to the engine bay?
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter [email protected]

  30. #269
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Not really, believe it or not there are not many fumes that one can smell and since I am using Shane's Aluminum Hatch Cover it will be open anyway. I really do not believe there will be an issue with a lot of fumes but If I am wrong I can change them out. They do have some activated carbon in the filters, not much but some. We'll see how they do and let you know but for now really can't say a lot of fumes are escaping as again I can's smell them unless you get nose right up to filter. And I ting the roof scoop with air flowing and the open to the air hatch cover will make sure there is not a build up of fumes.

  31. #270
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Worked on fitting the waterfall engine cover today. Because of the interior padding (and you were right Shane) I did have to modify the top portion around the tubing on the section. But final got it on the car, have not drilled the holes to mount it yet will sleep on it and decide tomorrow if I like it where it is now. The front section with the shifter doesn't have the same issue, it even slides around so plenty of room there. Here is what it look like with the engine cover being held in place:

    IMG_0199.jpg IMG_0200.jpg

  32. #271
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Well just got back from Kansas again, trying to help my elderly parents as they need to move from home to assisted living, hard choices to make for sure but they need help so been working on that instead of the GTM. Would rather be working on the GTM. So, I drive all the way back to Wyoming ad this is what happens the day I arrive, lets us all know winter is coming but I hope it holds off for a little while:

    IMG_0213.jpg

    Oh the Brittany puppy in the picture came home with me from Kansas, I lost my shop buddy some while back a German Shorthaired Pointer I had for years so after a while decided to get new shop buddy. Got a long way to go training her but will be nice especially a night when working in shop by myself.

  33. #272
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    I am going to rework the waterfall engine cover posted earlier as it does not fit right, and I am going to change the color to match the rest of the tunnel. I have issue with where it sits on the tunnel, even though the back matches up as it should, the front small section will not sit all the way down on the tunnel frame. This may be my fault due to where I cut out for the cup holders and fiber glassed the top side. I may have pulled the small nose section up as it sits about 5/8" to 3/4" off the frame even though further down by the cup holders it is sitting on the frame as it should and it matches up with the rest of the engine firewall when installed. Will update when I get a good fix for this problem.

    IMG_0200.jpg

    The fron section is pulled up to match but you can see it is pulled up

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