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Thread: Wyoming GTM Underway

  1. #161
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Those look great!
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  2. #162
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Started to clean up and final fit parts for my custom build tunnel cover. I have the pieces together with the larger dash piece, a/c vent in proper location to make sure I can get the 7" A/V - GPS system in the dash, the mounting bracket is installed with the bezel in place. So think I have it now and will work on covering the custom piece and finishing the wood work. Haven't driven the go kart yet, need to change oil pan and once it arrives and I get the proper undercar clearance will drive the go-kart for the first time. Here are some pictures of the custom made tunnel cover that houses my switches, the A/V system and a 7" tablet to operate the Infinity Box System when brought on line.

    IMG_2240.jpg IMG_2242.jpg IMG_2243.jpg

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  4. #163
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Finished the center section of the tunnel cover that was pictured above. Do to is shape it could not be covered with out adding a seam so my solution was to cover as much as I could by stretching the material then cutting it down and adding a hand sewn diamond seam like they use on some of the high end cars. While it does not look bad it is not as good as the European car makers and their hand sewn seams, but I tried and it really does not look to bad.

    IMG_2246.jpg IMG_2248.jpg IMG_2249.jpg IMG_2250.jpg

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  6. #164
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Still have to finish coating the wood piece where the shifter goes and polish it our to look like the switch panel. This piece goes over the FF5 supplied front tunnel cover and dash piece to get my 7" tablet for the infinity Box system and switched in the GTM. The stitching works with he interior design being kind of rustic if you will using the screws etc. Hope to also add some more wood work on the door panels to help tie all the interior parts together. Hope it all work out right in the end.

  7. #165
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Looks really nice, James
    How are you securing your tablet?
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  8. #166
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    The tablet sit in the cradle and it has padding on all 4 sides so it hold it in pretty tight. I may have to attach some kind of pull strap to get the tablet out if I need to. And if I have to I will had some hook and loop (Velcro) strips on the back side to insure it stays put in the cradle.

  9. #167
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    The tablet in the picture is cracked and the touch screen does not work most of the time, was using it a templet and have a new table to fit in the same hole. Though about blaming it on the dog, but alas it was me who dropped the table some time back just not paying attention, but allowed me to build the fiberglass cradle and make all adjustments without having to worry about damaging the table because I already broke the thing. Oh well, and that is the rest of the story !!

  10. #168
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    While waiting on the smaller oil pan, decided to keep on working on interior. Got the back window wall padded, covered and the gasket for the window done and ready to install. Will fit this into GTM as soon as we get the body mounted. Have been holding off because I want to drive the go kart and need to change the oil pan out to gain 2 inched more in ground clearance before I try to drive it on the streets here, don't want to knock a hole in oil pan on the first drive!!

    IMG_0004.jpg
    View on cockpit side

    IMG_0005.jpg
    Passenger side view of corner inside cockpit

    IMG_0006.jpg
    Driver side view of corner inside cockpit

    IMG_0007.jpg
    Back (engine side) with gold reflective material to match engine bay

  11. #169
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Fitting the pieces that cover the center tunnel and the waterfall with cup holders. Was checking out the wiring again and everything worked excepted the lighted window up switch on the drivers side, not sure why but will check it out and get it working. Everything fits pretty good so far (Shane made mention of this in another post that I may have to slide the tunnel cover forward of the cross bar at the joint for the tunnel cover and waterfall piece) but may have to make a few adjustments. All lights and inter cabin lights work with the one exception mentioned above. Moved through all the gears with no issues so there appears to be enough clearance her as well. Will have to custom build a shift boot and ring to fit my tunnel cover design but figure I would need to do this from the start. Once the body is on and the back wall fitted it will be time to reinstall the seats (hope to have them recovered soon) and it not will install before recovered so I can drive the thing, weather is nice now so time to take her for a first drive.

    IMG_0008.jpg IMG_0009.jpg IMG_0010.jpg
    Passengers side, Drivers side and view from back toward the front

    IMG_0011.jpg
    View from overhead, the pieces fit better that I thought so don know if I will do anything at the joint between the waterfall and the tunnel cover, will have to wait till the body is on the remain dash sections installed to make final decision. But it is coming along again....

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  13. #170
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Thanks to Jkviper I got a different oil pan that he had for a LS3 that is a lot better suited for my GTM build. It turned into quite a chore and if I had been thinking far enough ahead I would have made sure this got changed a lot earlier. But we did get the new oil pan installed and now it look like is should and like the pictures VRaptor posted showing the oil pan and the ground clearance. Was not sure I could get it in without pulling the motor but with some help and luck we unbolted the engine mounts after removing the exhaust and the air intake and removed the two top bold on the very back frame holding the transmission, while loosening the bottom bolts so the could tip up and were able to move to get just enough to get he oil pan to clear the pickup tube and in turn get the new pick up tube and oil pan installed. Below are a couple of pictures of the before and after new oil pan installation.

    oil pan and transition to transmission side view.jpg
    The before picture with pan hanging 2" below the frame

    IMG_0012.jpg IMG_0013.jpg
    The after picture with the new oil pan, pick up tube, and dip stick now tucked to most of the way just above or even with the frame.

    Again thanks to Joel for offering his LS3 pan and accessories after making an engine change, they work great.

  14. #171
    Senior Member Jkviper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesfr58 View Post
    Thanks to Jkviper I got a different oil pan that he had for a LS3 that is a lot better suited for my GTM build. It turned into quite a chore and if I had been thinking far enough ahead I would have made sure this got changed a lot earlier. But we did get the new oil pan installed and now it look like is should and like the pictures VRaptor posted showing the oil pan and the ground clearance. Was not sure I could get it in without pulling the motor but with some help and luck we unbolted the engine mounts after removing the exhaust and the air intake and removed the two top bold on the very back frame holding the transmission, while loosening the bottom bolts so the could tip up and were able to move to get just enough to get he oil pan to clear the pickup tube and in turn get the new pick up tube and oil pan installed. Below are a couple of pictures of the before and after new oil pan installation.

    oil pan and transition to transmission side view.jpg
    The before picture with pan hanging 2" below the frame

    IMG_0012.jpg IMG_0013.jpg
    The after picture with the new oil pan, pick up tube, and dip stick now tucked to most of the way just above or even with the frame.

    Again thanks to Joel for offering his LS3 pan and accessories after making an engine change, they work great.
    Awesome, glad you could put those parts to good use. Looking forward to seeing the first start!

  15. #172
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Well with the new oil pan installed, and the replacement specialty silicone fittings on the cooling system we finally got her back up an running. Ran it up to temperature and finished filling the cooling system and all looks good. No more weeping leaks where the bushings were installed in the cooling system and no leaks on the oil pan replacement. Has been setting now 2 days after the last engine run and not a drop on the floor (Amen) so think we have this problem solved. Going to install the drivers seat again and recheck the slave cylinder in the clutch, then it our for her first drive...…

  16. #173
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Got some of the bottom panels located and in place to cover the tunnel and all the wiring and plumbing that is running through the tunnel. We have a lot of gravel roads and just to get to the good/paved roads I need to travel down gravel roads so decided to insure the bottom was at least covered for the first drive. The bottom NACA Duct Belly Pan Small Trapezoid and Louvered Belly Pan Center Narrow Panel were provide by Shane (VRaptor Speedworks) and integrated seamlessly with the panels supplied by FFR.

    IMG_0060.jpg IMG_0061.jpg IMG_0062.jpg IMG_0064.jpg IMG_0065.jpg

  17. #174
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Here is the routing for my cable shift lines and the hydraulic line tot he clutch slave cylinder. I ran them close to the engine next to the oil pan as it kept them further away from the exhaust leaving the BBK headers on my LS3. Both lines are cable shift lines and hydraulic line are wrapped in thermal protection as well. Know it is different than many other who run these lines down the frame, so though I would let every one see the routing and if anyone has any comment as to how this configuration will work please let me know as it is still no to hard to change routing if needed.

    IMG_0066.jpg IMG_0067.jpg

  18. #175
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    I think that all looks like it should work well. The key on the shift cables is to make sure you don't have them clamped tight or even zip ties tied tight around them anywhere in the engine bay. If they do get warm, the outer sheath softens and will allow the clamp or zip tie to compress the sheath tight to the cable and will lock the cable up tight to where you can't move it at all.
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  19. #176
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Looking great! There's just something cool about NACA ducts. And those look well-designed with the vertical edges. A lot of "NACA ducts" out there are poorly designed...
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  20. #177
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beeman View Post
    Looking great! There's just something cool about NACA ducts. And those look well-designed with the vertical edges. A lot of "NACA ducts" out there are poorly designed...
    Thanks!! ;-)
    Shane Vacek
    VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
    www.vraptorspeedworks.com
    Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
    Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts

  21. #178
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    The cables are not tied or clamped, the U-bolt in the picture is not tight against the cables but used as guide only, they are lose in the U-bolt. Thanks Shane for the heads up on wire ties or tie downs, thought that was the case from other post so designed to ride in the guides without clamping down on the cables. And thanks again for the undercarriage parts they really worked great.

  22. #179
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    You are making some serious progress James and it looks great. Now that I have got my summer fishing out of my system, I'm back on the GTM and making a point of doing something related to it each day. My next task is insulating the garage door so I can actually get out there in these hot summer months.

    Keep up the great work!!!

  23. #180
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Got the seat sliders installed in the drivers side now that the carpet is installed. Here is a couple of shots of the sliders in place with out the seat.

    IMG_0068.jpg IMG_0069.jpg

    Here the drivers seat is installed, almost ready to drive. Found a leak in my clutch hydraulic line at a union joint (was working the clutch and it was working as it should) but under pressure had a leak so am making a new section of line and will replace tomorrow.

    IMG_0070.jpg IMG_0071.jpg IMG_0072.jpg

  24. #181
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Well it has been one of those days, went to replace the bad hydraulic fitting and short piece of hard line from the tube union to the connection at the AN flex hose to the clutch slave cylinder. Well of course I had to open the system again, so hydraulic fluid everywhere again, seemed a shame as I finally had the slave cylinder working right with now air (not mushy at all) and had to open it again. Got the line replaced and reloaded the master cylinder, hooked up the power bleeder and started pushing oil through the system. Blead it back at the salve cylinder into the catch bottle the first time and forgot to release the pressure on the catch bottle (30 psi) when I pulled it off the bleeder and it shot hydraulic fluid everywhere, this was mistake number 1 on the day. Checked the clutch and it was soft after a couple of pumps do hooked up power bleeder again and this time grabbed the wrong cap for the master cylinder (right size wrong thread) screwed it on and pressured up the master cylinder to bleed it again. Well hydraulic fluid started pouring out of the master cylinder top at the cap all down the front, so in a hurry to try and get the leak shut down, I again pulled the catch bottle off the master cylinder bleeder under pressure and shot more hydraulic fluid down the front end. Needless to say, I really had a mess on the floor and on the front end of the GTM. So, I spent the next few hours wiping everything down and dropped the belly pans to get to the puddles setting on them. Floor dry down to soak up the mess and cleaning up all the spray from pulling the catch bottle off.

    I did finally get the slave cylinder working and think I have all the air out but will work the clutch and if needed I will bleed again. Was a long afternoon and all I could do was laugh at myself, better than crying in the spilled oil! Funny thing is you know how to do it right but still make multiple mistakes like today, attribute it to a brain fart or just getting older not sure which.

    Hope tomorrow goes better…….

  25. #182
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    Just a heads up- Brake fluid will eat away at most coatings and paints. It must be COMPLETELY cleaned up. That's the bad news. The good news is that brake fluid is water soluble, so you can get rid of it by washing down the area with a hose. Not super convenient if the car is in the garage in jack stands, but still easier to push the water of the garage than it is to resurface everything the brake fluid could damage.
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  26. #183
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Thanks for the heads up on it being water soluble, did not know that, but wiped as much as I could last night. Can remove from lift and roll outside to wash so will do that today. Yea I really made a mess !!

  27. #184
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Crash,

    Got all the break fluid washed and cleaned off again thanks did not know it was water soluble.

    Got the undercarriage pieces all drilled, coated and installed with the exception of the two panels that cover the area where the seats bolt through. Will finish these when seats are installed for the final time. Here is what they look like finished and installed.

    IMG_0073.jpg IMG_0074.jpg

  28. #185
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Finished the under carriage close out, located and mounted the last 2 panels they are not coated yet as they will have to be removed again to remove and re-install my seat rails and seats but did go ahead and locate and mount them to get this part out of the way.

    IMG_0076.jpg

  29. #186
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    With the exception of installing some heat shielding around starter and the A/C compressor the go kart is mechanically complete and here are a few pictures of it sitting on the ground. Will take it out for its first drive then the body goes on to continue installation of interior and building the doors, hatch etc. Maybe 1/2 the interior is already complete or in some stage of completion but body has to go on now to locate firewall and firewall window piece and fit the rest of the dash. This is what it looks like now ready for it first drive.....

    IMG_0077.jpg IMG_0078.jpg IMG_0079.jpg

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  31. #187
    Senior Member Jkviper's Avatar
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    Looks great james, coming along. Also, I like those comp grey wheels, very nice.

  32. #188
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Got busy in the shop today and got the passenger’s seat (or just the bottom seat part) mounted and in place, left back off to make it lighter and will have to remove anyway when them get recovered.

    IMG_0082.jpg IMG_0083.jpg
    Seat travels a few inches, one picture seat all the way forward, one picture seat all the way back. The passengers side does not have the same spacing between the tunnel and the out side frame as the drivers side does.


    Removed the exhaust and wing supports for now so I could mount the body for the first time. Below are a few pictures of the body on the frame for the first time.

    IMG_0084.jpg IMG_0089.jpg IMG_0090.jpg IMG_0095.jpg IMG_0096.jpg

  33. #189
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    The rear tires seem to line up pretty well with the body, will have to final adjust but not looking to bad now. The rear of the body is sitting on approximately 9” block between the transmission support and the body.

    IMG_0085.jpg IMG_0086.jpg

  34. #190
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Had to make a few adjustments to the CAI but if is fit in place and you can see the clearance between the hatch and the rea fender wells below. I still have the air filters attached and they are sitting in the area that they will be final mounted. May have to rework for hatch hinges but so not know yet as they have been removed from the GTM.

    IMG_0087.jpg IMG_0088.jpg IMG_0091.jpg IMG_0092.jpg IMG_0093.jpg

    Here is tape indicating the measurements between the throttle body and the MAF and the end of the Y and the MAF for reference. Any comments are appreciated if it need to me moved but would need to install in one 3" section only prior to the 4" section it is in now.
    IMG_0094.jpg

  35. #191
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    A great feeling to have the body on! You have had your wheels aligned already, right?
    Looks like your MAF is 7-1.5"=5.5" from the beginning of the straight intake tube. That's awfully close to 6" and a heck of a lot better than most GTM (and SL-C for that matter) setups I see. Flipping around that tube with your MAF on it should get you over 6" and would be simple (I don't have the bung type MAF, I'm assuming you can flip it in the mount?)
    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  36. #192

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    James,

    what do you use your ISIS for?
    Also how did you route your PCV valve hose?

    Thanks,
    Mostafa

  37. #193
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Beeman,

    Yes the wheels are aligned, shop here is town did it moved on trailer there and back but will check alignment one more time when finished. I can flip the tube the MAF sensor will still go in in the right direction if I flip the tube the mount screws will work even if you flip the tube. Will take a look at doing that and get some more measurements when I rework the support holding the CAI system, need to shorten the height. Yea kind of a milestone and now really starting to look like a car !!

  38. #194
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    Looking great James!!! Definitely a milestone for sure.

    You can also think about putting an air straightener in there (simple honeycomb) up stream of the MAF sensor. I’m sure when the GM manual was put together the length measurement for the location of the MAF was for a single tube intake. I’m betting the dual intake will cause additional turbulence in the intake that may cause issues. Just a thought, may or may not be a problem.

  39. #195
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Mostafa

    If you are referring to the Infinity Box CAN-Bus system I have installed, as you probably notice the rear power cell in the pictures, I have 2 power cells one front and one back and a In-Motion module along with a In-Environment module for controlling the Vintage Air and a In-Touch module to communicate with the table installed on the top or the center tunnel cover. The In-Motion module controls the windows etc. that need to reverse current to move in two directions. The front power cell controls all the functions from the dash forward, lights, turn, interior lights, wipers etc. and the rear power cell control all the functions required at the rear, lights, turn signals, reverse lights and all power requirements from the cab to the rear end.

    I only have 4 relays in the entire car and the Infinity Box system handles the rest through the Master Cell (computer brains of the unit) and is connected to each of the cells and modules. I have RFID keyless ignition, E-Stop electric parking brake, door poppers and rear hatch popper all controlled through or interfaced with the Infinity Box CAN-Bus system, it eliminated the need to run a lot of heavy wirer back and forth through the tunnel, only power wires to the power cells and two small control wires from the Master Cell to power cell to run everything in the rear of the car with the exception of the stand alone control (ECU) for the engine, but it is interfaced with the Infinity Box system.

    Guess the simple answer is it runs all the electronics required to operate the GTM and accessories with no relays (except for A/C, Fan Controllers, high fan and low fan RPM window switch to cut compressor out over 5000 RPM, the 4 relays I did install due to current draw or no interface built into system) and a reduction in heavy wiring, and allows me to control the entire GTM system from the tablet in the car or my iPhone or another tablet.

    Hope this is what you were asking, but if not let me know and I will attempt get you the right answer. Thanks

    I don't not have a PCV valve on my engine build, he hose connected the CAI in the picture draws filter air into what would be the draw for a PVC valve. I came off the connection on the engine with a hose to a piece if stainless tubing that I bent to loop around back toward the CAI and went back to hose with stainless steel jacket and hose connectors from Summit Racing.

  40. #196
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    Sean,

    Yea, bet a vane straightener would help once the two sides come together to straighten out the flow and eliminate the turbulence. I'll see what I can find to do the job. And thanks for the comments, they help all of us in figuring out a better or more appropriate way of getting the job done.

  41. #197
    Senior Member jamesfr58's Avatar
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    put the drivers side door up to the body and taped in place to check the clearance against the seat to make sure I did not have an interference problem. Did not think so when I decided to used the seats from a fox body mustang but was not sure until I had the body on and the door to check the fit. Now can breath a sigh of relief as I know I can them to work now...…

    IMG_0097.jpg IMG_0098.jpg

  42. #198
    Senior Member Edgeman's Avatar
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    dmgtm4.jpg
    I like the single intake. JMHO
    GTM #370
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  43. #199
    Senior Member beeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edgeman View Post
    dmgtm4.jpg
    I like the single intake. JMHO
    James' setup is superior to the one that you have pictured, the MAF is essentially on an elbow, probably confusing the pcm to some degree.

    That being said, I went with a single intake for simplicity and more importantly because I couldn't find 6" of straight intake pipe in front of the throttle body for the MAF in a dual intake because of where the Kooks exhaust lies. It might be possible with the FFR exhaust.

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    MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
    GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
    2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
    1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car

  44. #200
    Senior Member Roger Reid's Avatar
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    Here is a product that claims to smooth out the airflow before a MAF. I still wouldn't put an MAF in a middle of the bend.

    https://performancemrp.com/i-3049756...tegory:1389190
    Just an old man with a great hobby

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