Wyoming GTM Underway

[jamesfr58]

Working on some type of cover for the stereo equipment behind the seat. Here is a first look at the direction I am heading with plywood mock up setting on the passanger side panel that has the sub woofer and a 4" full range Kicker speaker. Think this will be the final design but will go down today and revisit and contemplate some more on ho I want it to look.

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[jamesfr58]

Got the passengers side Amp and Speaker covers done basically, have to round off some edges still and then will cover to match the panel. This should hide all the wiring and should stay clear of the back seat when it reclines. The one on the drivers side will be the same dementions, just a right hand left hand versions. Here is what they look like before fine tuning and covering them.

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[KGTM]

do you plan to leave the seat out? in y car these is not much room behind there, and most of sound may be be blocked by seat.

So far for me, no need for stereo while the car is running, way to loud, may be only in 6th gear at about 1500 RPM.

so If Ireserve turn off at 12.2 volts and now the voltage is 12V and one forces it on, how long before it turn back off?

Thanks,
Mostafa

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

do you plan to leave the seat out? in y car these is not much room behind there, and most of sound may be be blocked by seat.

So far for me, no need for stereo while the car is running, way to loud, may be only in 6th gear at about 1500 RPM.

so If Ireserve turn off at 12.2 volts and now the voltage is 12V and one forces it on, how long before it turn back off?

Thanks,
Mostafa

Not sure what the default setting is, but I'm sure it can be programmed to be anything you want. I do know it is definitely enough time to get in and get the engine started....and once the engine is started, the voltage will instantly go to 13+v as soon as the alternator starts spinning.....which will prevent the inReserve from tripping again until you turn off the engine and the voltage dips back down to 12.2.

[KGTM]

well during start the voltage will go well below 12.2V and what if the car does not start?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

When you trip the inReserve to reconnect the battery, if the voltage is below 12.2, you have X amount of time before it trips again....say 5 minutes. The system could care less at that point if the voltage is 12.2 or 9v......you are on a timer. Whether the car starts or not really has nothing to do with it. If the car doesn't start, eventually (when the inReserve timer runs out) the inReserve will trip again and disconnect the battery. At that point, you can trip the inReserve again to get another 5 minutes to try to start the engine....but in reality, if you can't get the engine started in the time allotted...then inReserve is not really your problem....you will have to figure out why your engine won't start.

[KGTM]

Should have just check the website, 15 minutes timer.

One buys Infinity box to simplify things but to make it work one needs to make it more complicated, Inreserve should be free as without it system will not work well at all.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I think the reality is that one buys Infinitybox in order to modernize things and allow you to do things that would be impossible or at least very difficult (complicated) without it. If you want simple, use the Painless harness that comes with the kit and do not add any other electrical components other than what is necessary to operate the car. If you want modern (keyless entry key fobs, keyless push button start, timed interior lighting, security, touch-screen controls, ability to operate the car from a smart phone, etc, etc)....then Infinitybox is the way to go.

[KGTM]

Yes, I like all the goodies that modern car bring, but my moden car does not disconnect after few day and have a manual switch to kick start it all the time and wait for it to boot/run

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

....and I'm guessing that Infinitybox does not have a multi-million dollar R&D budget to work with like a major production car company. Yes....I agree that it would be awesome if the inReserve was not necessary and the battery would last a month sitting idle.....but that is not the case.....and there aren't that many other choices on the market that can do what the Infinitybox system can do.

[Shoeless]

Although I appreciate the dialogue on the Infinity Box System, and we get it KGTM you are not a fan, and that’s perfectly fine, we all get to chose what items we include in our builds, but can we do James a favor and take this to another thread as to not clog up his build updates?

[jamesfr58]

Got the stereo equipment on the passenger’s side installed and the cover build and install that hide all the wire and hardware mounting. It is open on the bottom and has a small slot in top to allow air to circulate around the equipment. Now on to the body again, will remount the body on the car and start building the doors and other body parts. Have one more to finish building for the driver’s side but here is what the one on the passenger’s side looks like.

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[jamesfr58]

Merry Christmas to Everyone, enjoy the holidays and family. I have a house full including 4 new grandkids under 3, makes 9 total now and they are always fun around the holidays. I get to wind them up and then send them home.... That's our job as Grandparents !!

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

LOL!!....have a great Christmas and have fun with those grandkids!

[Shoeless]

Merry Christmas James and fellow builders. Get those grandkids all wound up and send them home LOL
'

[jamesfr58]

Thanks guys and Merry Christmas !!

[KGTM]

Merry Christmas to Everyone and enjoy some family time.

Mostafa

[jamesfr58]

Now have the driver side stereo and amp boxes built and installed. This hides all wiring with the exception of a small section on the drivers side where power and ground come into the box. Also hung the brackets for the front hood, and the nose of the car is sitting on the front somewhere in the general proximity of it final location. Need to get the body back on and located now and will then attach the front hood section. Making some progress, albeit kind of slow around the holiday but getting a few thing done. Will miss out on about two weeks in January as will be heading to Florida (Fort Lauderdale and Orlando) to take the wife to Disney World etc. and on a 7 day cruise to the Caribbean. She had been going to car shows, auctions, races and other thing I wanted to do like fishing in Alaska so this winter going to do something she wants to do, should be fun...… Any here are some pictures of drivers side box installed and with both boxes installed.

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Nose of GTM a little dirty after sitting around for a couple of years, but will get it cleaned of and looking good. Nice to finally see the major body part going on even if I have to remove them again, it is the first time to see what it will really look like in real life....

[Shoeless]

Those stereo boxes look great James!!!

[KGTM]

Hi James,

This looks great, but if intent is great sound I am not sure about that, although the Sub can be blocked and may be less of an issue, the Mid and hi can not be blocked much as you will lose lot of audio quality, the doors will sound good if good speaker and done right.

Not sure about you height, but if any taller than 5.8 not sure if there is room behind the seat especially on driver side, unless the back of the seat is reclined too vertical. definitely not with stock seat.

I am sure you have check these, it just look tight from picture.

Mostafa

[jamesfr58]

Thanks to Shane at VRaptor and his mounts for the harness bar I got it fitted up, welded and it is no in paint. The picture is of the fit after welding, the end caps are not on yet but have been installed and it is primed and painted, drying now and I will clear coat when dry.

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[jamesfr58]

Also located the cabin lights along side the speaker boxes, will point the driver side toward passengers side and passengers side toward the drivers side should light up interior quite well and they don't look bad where they are sitting now. Not sure if I will leave the there yet, and they are only held on by some two sided tape for now.

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[jamesfr58]

Decided I needed to get the harness bar on before I put the body back on as not sure I can reach 1/2" bolts once the body is on......

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Yeah....definitely easier to get the harness bar installed before the body goes on. It is possible to get to those once the body is on if you go up thru the rear wheel-wells, but then it about requires 2 people.

[jamesfr58]

While waiting on the clear coat to harden on the harness bar, started fine tuning the front tunnel cover and center dash sections. They have been modified extensively to insure I could get my 7" head unit with GPS, Navigation Apple Car Play and Hand Free calling installed and still make all the switching work, along with a 7" tablet that will run the Infinity Box system through the InTouch net module. Here it is with the had unit mount in place and the head unit inserted in the mounting bracket with the bezel installed. It is tight but it did all go together as I was planning. Still have a few thing to work out but appears to be going my direction.

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[beeman]

Looks great, James, but let me know how the hands free calling goes! I see myself wearing noise canceling headphones driving this thing...
Seriously though, I installed an aftermarket hands free calling head unit in a relatively quiet vehicle I used to have and it's nothing like OEM...

[jamesfr58]

Still waiting on my 72 hours to pass on the clear coated harness bar so still working on the small but very time consuming (for me anyway, never attempted to do an interior or the upholstery work before) as there is a lot of small parts and pieces that have to go together and still work. So today got the front half of the tunnel cover and middle section of the dash at least in the car to make the needed modifications to make sure it all would fits as need and work where placed.

You can see that head unit is no in the car through the modified hole:

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This view show just how tight it is, there is enough room to get everything hooked up on the back side but not much room to spare. I used Shane's stereo closeout pan with some modifications but VRaptor does it again a perfect fit.

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[jamesfr58]

So, when in place I tried the shift gates and found out my guess on the room required to hit all the gear clean was off just a little. You can see the cover plate in the pictures above, then see what it looks like now. I had to fabricate a new aluminum plate and will again laminate the African rose wood to the aluminum plate, so it matched the switch plate like the one above.

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Guess I should have waited before covering and finishing the first one. Only way to build so of this once you leave the manual to build it like you want it is to build in on the car instead of measuring and hope you get it right. The shifter now hits all the gates with room to spare and I know it will go into gear and not pop out due to being to tight.

[KGTM]

Hope you check reverse too, Looks Great.

Happy new year all.

Mostafa.

[jamesfr58]

Dave,

Not sure how good the hands free will be but it came with the head unit so I installed the parts to make it work. If and when I ever do get the gigantic project done I will give it a try and let you know. Figured I would get it in with everything else, easier now than later if I want to install it, may never use it but at least I know its there.

[jamesfr58]

Banging away at getting all the little things done for the body goes back on, mounted the completed harness bar in the car today so thought I would post a few pictures of the finished product installed. And want to give Shane at VRaptor Speedworks for the harness bar brackets they worked out great.

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[Shoeless]

That console is really coming together nicely!!! Steering wheel looks great too

[jamesfr58]

I have a question for anyone and Shane, concerning the routing of the wiring from the body out to the doors and threw to the inside of the door. I have been looking at this and for some reason I just cant get my head around the routing or if I need to drill through the 1 1/2" tube upright for the best routing to hid the wiring and still allow the door to close. I am open to any and all ideas as I would like to get these routed prior to reinstalling the body again.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

I route all of the door wiring thru the top 1.5" square chassis tube (as shown in the FFR manual). So all of the wires exit the end of the tube, curve forward and inward against the alum footwell/wheel well panel and then enter the door right below the bottom hinge. I install a "hose clamp" around the loom to hold the wires against the alum panel in a location where they won't get pinched by the door stop or the door itself. I'll post a pic from my phone of a crude example if I can.....

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

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.....

[jamesfr58]

Thanks Shane, had not thought or running it inside the tube but better than what I was thinking...Again thanks.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Takes a bit of planning ahead since it is pretty much impossible to add wires later if you figure out you forgot a wire that needs to run into the door. I get all of the wires together that need to run to each door, loom them from before the enter the tube and all the way thru the tube, then fish the wires thru the tube with a fish tape.

[Shoeless]

Maybe stupid question since I'm not that far ahead in my build and haven't looked that far in the build book in a bit, but I have started to run wiring as I'm waiting on a few things.

Where are you entering that square frame tube? I'm guessing I can just cut an entrance hole near where my power cells are located or wherever appropriate?

I'll have to lay out everything I plan for the doors, as you recommended, before I run them. Stereo speakers, window motor, door poppers.

[jamesfr58]

Sean, attached are a couple of picture of where I entered the square tube frame, have a grommet where I entered and you can see the wires exiting the square tube at the door locations. Need to give shout out to Shane he sent me a picture of one he was working on as the solution was so simple, I was making it harder than it needed to be and Shane VRaptor set me straight. Hope this helps, I entered the frame close to the power cell on the passenger side and close to the master cell on the drivers side.

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[jamesfr58]

My wiring for the stereo speakers, door poppers and windows are in the bundle going through the square tube. I also remade the back body mount and it is now a piece of aluminum angle that is mounted on rubber feet that allow the angle to move past 90 degrees. This should work better that the piece supplied with the kit and I will mill out the red outlined slotted holes once the body is back on and centered to I know exactly where it will be sitting.

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