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Senior Member
Brake Lines with New Style Frame
I am not sure at what Serial Number they started the New Frame Modifications. I temporarily installed my Pedal Box today in preparation of running
my Brake Lines. I have seen many variants in photos. From the MC down the Inside and Outside of Vertical Frame. My "New Frame" is designed a bit
different. Anyone have experience, or suggestions before I start drilling clamps???frame2.jpgnew frame.jpg
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PLATNUM Supporting Member
I put the rear line inside and the front outside. But you can do whatever works best for you.
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Senior Member
Thanks. That was my idea looking at it. There is a perfect space to run 1-line in the rear of the Vertical Frame.
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Senior Member
I would suggest using some old coat hangers or thin rods and bend them from the MC to all the connection locations. This will allow you to decide on your best routes without screwing up the brake lines. You can even use them to help create your bends and make them look and function better, we did some of the difficult routing that way and it saved time, patience and rebending. In the end its up to you what your comfortable doing, just take your time.
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Seasoned Citizen
Larry, looks like the pedal assembly is not completely bolted in so you may have this covered but thought 'd mention it just in case:
In your first photo you can see that the balance bar is grossly out of adjustment and the side clearance can't be adjusted with the M/C's threaded into the clevis. Pay close attention to the detail here -- it is a safety issue. If by chance you didn't receive instruction with the kit go to the Wilwood site and download a set.
Nice color on the chassis!
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Senior Member
Thanks Guys! I have not bolted or adjusted anything yet. Just putting things in place and making sure I have everything. I have started using the coat hangers as a template. I am still waiting on a lot of back orders. Tomorrow morning I will "Tackle" the Brake Line install. Appreciate the advise. Next advise needed.... I was hoping to run the supply lines directly out of the back of Reservoir, but Frame is in the way. So, I have to come out the bottom. I was hoping not to use rubber lines, but if I have to remove Firewall in the future, it would make it easier??? Other suggestions???
res.jpg
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
MBB Larry
Thanks Guys! I have not bolted or adjusted anything yet. Just putting things in place and making sure I have everything. I have started using the coat hangers as a template. I am still waiting on a lot of back orders. Tomorrow morning I will "Tackle" the Brake Line install. Appreciate the advise. Next advise needed.... I was hoping to run the supply lines directly out of the back of Reservoir, but Frame is in the way. So, I have to come out the bottom. I was hoping not to use rubber lines, but if I have to remove Firewall in the future, it would make it easier??? Other suggestions???
res.jpg
Be careful with the reservoirs such that they don't interfere with the hood pin locations. If your not running with a hood then there are no issues. I was lucky when I placed mine as they just missed by about 1/2". Its the bump down of the hood that holds the pinse you some grief. When I do the next one i will do the entire body fit up first then the rest to alleviate some of the interferences that I ended up having and then needed to redo. This is where I ended up due to the clutch cable and the frame behind to be able to go straight thru.
20180929_173502.jpg
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Seasoned Citizen
Larry, I ran a combination of copper pipe and brake fluid resistant hose and coupled the hose with AN fittings. The 1/8" copper nipples thread into my billet alum reservoir and are fitted with AN fittings and are long enough to make them easier to reach when working under the dash. The AN hose fittings couple to AN adapters on the master cylinders. It's a bit more bulky than running hard line but easier to install and remove for maintenance when working in the confines of the under dash area.
IMG_0725.JPG
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Senior Member
Larry,
Here is how mine is done. Looks like you have the Gen 1 frame as well.
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Senior Member
Oops, I need to check that out. Thanks for advise.
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Senior Member
Think I have "Generation 1 1/2" There are several changes to my Frame and Kit i.e. Door entrance.>>
new frame.jpg
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
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Senior Member
Yours looks very nice. I just sent my Firewall out for Powder yesterday. Think I have the same 3-Billet Reservoir. I came straight out of the back of the Reservoir through the Firewall. My Center hole had to go through the Canted Frame as well. I like your fittings. Was going to run Rubber back to Actuator. Looks like another trip to Summit.
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Senior Member
Yours looks very nice. I just sent my Firewall out for Powder yesterday. Think I have the same 3-Billet Reservoir. I came straight out of the back of the Reservoir through the Firewall. My Center hole had to go through the Canted Frame as well. I like your fittings. Was going to run Rubber back to Actuator. Looks like another trip to Summit. Your lines
go down right side of car??
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
MBB Larry
Think I have "Generation 1 1/2" There are several changes to my Frame and Kit i.e. Door entrance.>>
Did you call FFR and ask what is changed and what's not? I just noticed tonight that I have the dropped frame at the front of the door as well.
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Senior Member
From what I was told, I guess the Frame I have were produced since January this year. I believe the reason is to adapt to the Truck. First thing I noticed was the Door Entrance lowered. The Aluminum Panels are cut for Original Frame. I guess I will have to trim?? Also I just found the Door Sills will not fit. The Fuel Neck access panel is moved, and no Battery access hole. I wish FFR would supply some kind of Modification Status on Components like we have in Aviation. I bought a very nice Self Leveling Laser Tool for about $60 that worked great for measuring and aligning. Jim S at FFR Technical Department has been really helpful any questions.
las1.jpglas2.jpg
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Senior Member
I'm 1104 and have the same mods as you it would appear. The frame change on the bottom front of the doors really doesn't affect us though from what I can tell. The body isn't any different, they haven't changed the moulds yet. So we won't have to trim the floor pan because the fiberglass body doesn't dip at that point. Why won't your door sills fit?
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Senior Member
You are correct. However, being 70 years old, I like the extra room for getting in and out. Did you get a new Fuel Tank?? I notice the rear panel for the Filler Neck is not all the way on the Driver's Side?? It is inboard of the Trunk Hinges. Was told it is for the New Tank?? I am installing a Boyd Tank. I was just in Vancouver in May on Business. Met the Owner of a FFR 33 near the Airport. Been struggling with a lot of Back Orders.
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Senior Member
Here is a pic pf my Fuel Tank access and Door Entrance with Now Frame and Old Panel I will have to trim>>
vc1.jpgvc2.jpg
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Senior Member
Like you, I bought the Boyd tank. My reason was the new FFR tank has the filler built right in with no provision to relocate it. I do not want my filler in the trunk.
70 is the new 50! you're not that far ahead of me Are you going to modify the body then? even though the frame has changed nothing else has on the parts that you and I got. So if you want a lower door sill you're going to be modifying the body to get it. I will leave it as is...
Love your frame colour, is there a name or code? Is that what you're planning on doing the body in as well?
You may not be finished with your shock/spring assembly but in your picture the left rear coil has separated from the top hat - there needs to be a zip tie or something to keep the spring attached to the hat. If you don't do that then the two can become misaligned with extreme suspension travel increasing the risk of the spring not fitting back on the hat proper causing stress on the shock mount and possibly snapping it off.
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Senior Member
Thanks for the Shock information. I will do that today. I sent you a private mail address so we can compare build and photos.
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[QUOTE=FF33rod;348490]
70 is the new 50! you're not that far ahead of me
That's why there's years and years worth of info on this forum.