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Thread: Puma's 818 Build

  1. #1
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    Puma's 818 Build

    My name is Eric, but my close friends call me Puma. In college I studied architecture then went back to school for engineering. At one point I used to own a speed shop, and I am fairly handy when it comes to fabrication and custom work. I have a turbo forester, a single cab short bed silverado, and a built G8GT. I am a cobb certified tuner, and have been tuning and building cars for about 20 years. I was always interested in 818's, but just never seemed to be in a good place to take on a build of that magnitude. I also used to have another turbo forester...... which is how I got into this predicament. My wife was driving the "beater" forester and a teenager pulled out right in front of her. She ate up his bumper and the car was deemed a total loss even though it was a fairly easy fix. The forester had such a low blue book value that I contemplated not even reporting it to the insurance, and just fixing it myself. I was hunting parts to fix it when a friend sent me a post of someone selling a partially built 818. They had lost interest and had too many projects going. The forester made for a decent donor and I already owned it so everything seemed pretty straight forward...... I negotiated a price that included delivery and here we go on this crazy ride, as I learn how to build a kit car.

    Eric Rue

    Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 12:04 AM.

  2. #2
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    Things that make this build different from the others:

    1. This car is built from a forester donor rather than a wrx donor.
    2. We are attempting to use a 32bit SAVCS forester wiring harness and ECU.
    3. The transmission and TCU will be from a BAJA along with the sport shifter with "tap up tap down" shifting. We will also be attempting to use the JDM paddle shifters behind the forester steering wheel.
    4. We will be attempting to retain power brakes, but keep them from being overly sensitive, by using a JDM Miata brake booster.
    5. We will be attempting to retain the ABS from the forester.

    I will backtrack and update this post as the build progresses.

    this is the good forester (my daily)



    this is the donor forester (my beater) I dont have many good photos of it, but heres a drone photo from our last get together (it's the silver one in the woods)

    Last edited by e-rue; 01-22-2019 at 03:59 PM.

  3. #3
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    This is where I will be building the 818. It is really not quite big enough to hold all the donor parts and all the kit parts, and all the extra stuff the car came with but I am making the most of it.

    This is the bay area:





    The fabrication area:





    The clean room/area: (not so clean now that its full of 818 parts)



    Last edited by e-rue; 01-10-2019 at 09:41 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Eric,
    Welcome to the 818 Family. I used a 04 FXT SAVCS as a donor. I have a 05fxt donor parts pile for my second 818 (project on hold).

    Here is a link to my schematics, if your interested:

    https://1drv.ms/f/s!AjxmxU-yAwK9hXLhEcMjnYyAQ39k

    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  5. #5
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    Thanks Bob, I downloaded them. I hope to be diving into the wiring harness over the next month or so.


    These are the photos I was sent for the partially complete 818 kit I bought.
    I think I had already made up my mind, and after getting several more photos and working out a deal to have it delivered, I accepted and became the new owner.







    Last edited by e-rue; 01-10-2019 at 10:14 PM.

  6. #6
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    So I took delivery, and from day one i had parts absolutely EVERYWHERE. It was pretty exciting to see the roller and all the boxes. I was a little disappointed because the fiberglass rear end had a bad crack in it, but I didn't make a big stink about it, and figured id fix it towards the end of the build.





    The first thing I did was clean up the best I could so that I could actually move in the shop with all these spare parts stacked EVERYWHERE. Then I started cleaning and wiping down the 818, and getting ready to tackle the first major challenge, figuring out what had to be done to get the automatic transmission to fit correctly and what do do for a mount, since they are completely different from the manual cars.







    As you can see it did not fit well at all. The pan hit the frame on the driver side, the filter was totally blocked by a side support, and the X bracing in the center needed to be totally removed for the trans pan to drop down where it was supposed to be. Another issue is the sensor in the rear of the trans and the mount is so far rearward that I was worried it was going to stick out of the back of the car.
    Last edited by e-rue; 01-10-2019 at 10:39 PM.

  7. #7
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    It might seem like I have a huge headstart given that my car is already a roller...... I am realizing now that given fab work and changes required to use the forester and the automatic trans are putting me WAY behind time wise.

    So I took off the transmission tail housing after looking at another video an 818 owner posted. I put it in the vice and cut the back of it off using a sawzall. I then mounted it in the Bridgeport and machined a nice flat surface to mount a block off plate to. Another obstacle was cutting off the output shaft. The modification to the case was a considerable amount of work, and I later found out that subaru made a fwd transmission that I could have robbed the tail housing off of, and would have saved me a bunch of time. Oh well live and learn.....



    Last edited by e-rue; 01-10-2019 at 11:19 PM.

  8. #8
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    Your attatchment's won't open.......

  9. #9
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    LOVE LOVE LOVE my old antique bridgeport. Don't know what I would do without this machine.





    Next I machined a block off plate, then sealed it and bolted it on. Hopefully it never needs to be removed, I used some crazy adhesive.





    So I was able to get the transmission modified and reassembled. I felt pretty good about that part of it, so I took the next big step, and started cutting the frame up to make it all physically fit. Again I was blown away at how much modification was required vs. what I originally thought would be pretty minor.

    I started by cutting the X bracing out completely, and then doubling the right side rail for strength.



    The left side is where I ran into trouble. The pan and the drain plug was all over the frame rail so i cut it out completely, as well as the angled bracing to the shock tower.

    Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 12:23 AM.

  10. #10

    Yes, I love Technology
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    Welcome !
    With your shop and background I don't see anything that will stop you from doing your car any way you like...
    I don't always follow the rules myself - check
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...rt-s-818-build
    The more you change the more fun you have.
    Art Quillen

  11. #11
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    Once I had the frame modified and everything tacked in place, it was time to figure out how to fabricate a trans mount bracket, fabricate a bracket on the frame, and also figure out what trans mount I wanted to use. Everything Subaru had for trans mounts seemed completely insane, so i used a generic energy suspension piece for a GM application. Once I had everything tacked in place, I mocked up the transmission and thats when I started feeling a little uncomfortable. The trans pan seemed like it hung low in the frame and there wasnt much to keep it from getting punctured if i ran over something so I welded a cage around the pan where it dropped down and added a piece of plate steel to bolt the transmount to.







    Last edited by e-rue; 01-10-2019 at 11:47 PM.

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  13. #12
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    So all the fab work to make this trans work correctly has really paid off. The support no longer blocks the filter, the drain plug is easily accessible, the trans pan drops down into the recess I created, and I have put in enough reinforcing that I should never have any issues with these changes. I have started priming and painting everything now. (my primer was white)











    Last edited by e-rue; 01-10-2019 at 11:59 PM.

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    AZPete's Avatar
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    As Art said, with your shop and skills you'll be able to do anything you like. This will be fun to watch so please keep posting.

    Your attachments won't open so check out this tread about photos. After you use a gallery a few times it becomes easy:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...tures-in-posts
    Last edited by AZPete; 11-25-2018 at 11:19 AM. Reason: added link
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  16. #14

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    Awesome. Ill be following this

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    That's a really different approach.
    Man, some of you guys are so talented. Including our new friend, Puma. I feel like a hack.

    What did you do with the other guys donor stuff? Between his donor, and your Forester, you've got parts for days.

  18. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ipassgas View Post
    That's a really different approach.
    Man, some of you guys are so talented. Including our new friend, Puma. I feel like a hack.
    Oh, YOU feel like a hack, huh? I should really share more of my photos with you, lol.

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  20. #17
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    Well to be honest I was pretty frustrated at how non-user friendly the forum was for hosting photos and I almost gave up. I came back a month later with more patience and learned how to use the gallery, and I resized all my photos and corrected all my links. I also added a few more photos and descriptions as well as a few videos. I also just learned that I can't have more than one video in a post the hard way (UGGGG!) I have a ton of new updates to the build and hope to have time to post them soon!

    Puma

  21. #18
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    I was so stoked that I finished the fabrication work, and in my head I wasthinking well things should speed up substantially since its mostly just bolting things together now...... so I started working on deleting the catted up pipe, when I realized a had a spare twin scroll turbo setup from a JDM subaru just hanging out on a shelf not being used. I went to take the turbo, manifolds, and up pipe off the car when I realized I had a few issues. The donor had a torn turbo inlet hose, as well as working TGV's still attached to the manifold. UGGGG so here we go backtracking again. I sourced a set of newer style TGV's to delete the throttle plates and dividers, and grabbed a NA 2.5 subaru intake off the "spare parts" shelf. Then I got lost in modification land.

    Dont forget to take care of your body when you are doing this kinda stuff. High speed porting tools like a Fordom make a lot of tiny aluminum debris that you can inhale and its really bad for you. I know I sound like a damn shop teacher but wear safety glasses and a respirator if you are doing this kinda work.



    I started with my most favorite tool in the whole world (mr. bridgeport) to machine out the dividers so I wouldn't have to spend so much time porting them out by hand. I cut a little more than halfway through then flipped them over and did the same from the other side.





    This is my porting cart. Magic happens here (joking)



    After sanding and getting a nice finish on the TGV's, I needed to plug the holes in them.







    Lastly, I ported the aluminum pipe plugs smooth on the inside of the TGV.

    Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 10:59 AM.

  22. #19
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    The intake I want to use is the one on the left. Stock intake on the right. The NA intake has larger straighter runners as well as a larger plenum.



    This manifold is not exactly a straight forward swap, as the mounting holes for the TGV's dont line up with the ones on the turbo cars. The center holes in the manifold will have to be slotted by hand, but for the outer holes it was easiest to slot the TGV's with Mr. Bridgeport.

    Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 10:53 AM.

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  24. #20
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    So the intake manifold is where I got grossly side tracked once again. If it wasn't for this intake I would probably already have the brakes and harness in the car. The intake is really cool, but it has a lot of casting imperfections and mounts or bosses on it that are not used in my application. I decided to remove them and finish up with a thick glossy powder coating.

    In this video you can also see the finished TGV's are what is allowing me to bolt the intake to the mill table.



    Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 04:16 PM.

  25. #21
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    Removing the EGR port from the intake



    Once the mill has removed as much material as possible the rest has to be done by hand







    Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 04:31 PM.

  26. #22

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    aquillen's Avatar
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    Fun fun fun. Thanks !
    Art Quillen

  27. #23
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    Sorry this video is a little shaky its incredibly hard to hold the phone while operating the fordom. Hahahaha. Normally when I do this I get to use both hands.

    Last edited by e-rue; 01-11-2019 at 05:52 PM.

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  29. #24

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    Do you use any type of lubricant when using the fordom and a bit with teeth that small? Mine seems to load up with chips in no time.

  30. #25
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    Kurk,

    I have seen different recommendations for lubricant, and given the sensitivity of our lungs for any of those products that off gas during high speed grinding........ I have never been comfortable using them given my respirator is particulate only. Over the years I have been successful in dry cutting at relatively low speed. I don't tend to have any issues with the cutters loading up with material. I frequently switch back and forth between single cut and cross cut, with the largest diameter single cut removing material the fastest and also the roughest. I go to a large cross cut to get a smoother finish and a small diameter cross cut to get it smoother still. After that, its sanding rolls. I really hate the fine dust that the sanding rolls create so I don't really like using them, but if you need that level of finish then its a necessary evil. Hope this helps you.

    Eric

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    I use a bar of soap on my aluminum burrs when grinding aluminum which works for me to keep them from clogging up. As mentioned above tool speed also has a lot to do with the burrs clogging.

  32. #27

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    Lots of times I don't use lube, but in the last couple years I've started using this stuff, after seeing some comments on Little Machine Shop ( I think it was there ).

    Incredible on everything from drilling, milling, motogrinding, etc. I've got on hand and also tried a number of things over many years, this is the best all around lube I've ever used. The paste is great for hand grinding work like you are showing above, brush a film on and you can go through a fair amount of cutting before you need more. I particular if you have soft aluminum clogging a drill bit or cutting tool, this ends that problem.

    Liquid by my drill press:
    Boelube Liquid, 4Oz

    Soft paste wax consistency for hand tapping, mill, drilling and the rest:

    BOELUBE Machining Lubricant - MFR : 70302-12 Container Size: 12 oz
    Art Quillen

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  34. #28
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    So I shaved as much of the extra material off the thick flange as I could with the mill, and I have been painstakingly manually grinding everything to the shape and finish that I want. I forgot to take a before and after photo of the flange, so i flipped it to the other side that's not finished yet for the before shot. Both sides are basically the same.

    Before



    After


  35. #29
    Junior Member e-rue's Avatar
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    More before and after.......






  36. #30

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    You have an amazing amount of patience Sir! Looks like was never there. Do you intend to powder coat or leave as is.

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