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Thread: Made My Own Wilwood Gas Pedal

  1. #1
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    Made My Own Wilwood Gas Pedal

    I posted this on the other forum with the rest of the details on installing my coyote gas pedal. When I was trying to decide on what to do for the pad I searched on here and didn't find a solution I liked. So I am posting it for just the pad because I figure some might want to do this little mod as well.

    After I was happy with the location of my coyote gas pedal I wanted to do something for the pad to match the others. I don't know why Wilwood does not just sell a gas pedal pad... Anyway, so I had the idea of buying two of the clutch/brake pads and making my own. I got them for under $9 each on amazon (part # 330-11280). I cut off the last row of holes on each one. Sanded them down to get as close of an even seam as I could. Cleaned up the heat discoloration and added a grove at the joint to make it look like the rest of the pad. I also got some stainless star bit screws from Ace Hardware to match the other set (although they are a security star bit). Once I had the new pads all laid out on the pedal I had to trim the top right and bottom left corner of the pedal. The left was just for a cleaner look but the top right was to make sure the pedal didn't hit the right side of the footbox side wall. I have very happy with how it all turned out.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Hacksaw84; 12-02-2018 at 09:03 PM.

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  3. #2
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Do you mind if I copy your idea?

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    Junior Member Kool AC's Avatar
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    Excellent idea. I've been looking for an alternative to the Ford Coyote pedal. Hope you don't mind but I will be copying on my build.
    MkIV Complete Kit #9423, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS Torsen 3.73, Wilwoods, DA Konis - Delivered 9/14/18

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  7. #4
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    Nice work. That looks great.
    Gen 3 Coupe, Gen 2 Coyote, Wilwoods, IRS, Power Steering, AC

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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    This look great!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

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  11. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Do you mind if I copy your idea?
    I hope you do. That was the whole point of posting it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kool AC View Post
    Excellent idea. I've been looking for an alternative to the Ford Coyote pedal. Hope you don't mind but I will be copying on my build.
    Please do. I was in the same boat and figured... I can make this.

  13. #8
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Looks fantastic....very nice work/idea.

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

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    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Very nice!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

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    Love it! Thanks for posting.

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    wareaglescott's Avatar
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    looks great!
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
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  21. #12
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Me like... Mongo going to carve up two brake pedal pads soon...
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  23. #13

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    Looks great but make sure you can hit the brake without also pressing the gas. Recommend installing the inboard aluminum and mocking up with carpet. Offset pedal pad to right but make sure it does not get stuck in the carpet at full throttle.
    www.breezeautomotive.com 2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.

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  25. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post
    Looks great but make sure you can hit the brake without also pressing the gas. Recommend installing the inboard aluminum and mocking up with carpet. Offset pedal pad to right but make sure it does not get stuck in the carpet at full throttle.
    I did check the clearance and it seemed OK. I will check again when everything is in its final place and then adjust if needed.
    I actually bought your pedal kit but ended up doing this instead once I realize I didn't have to cut the arm.

    Pedal1.jpgPedal2.jpg

    *I don't know why it flipped my pics all around*

  26. #15
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    I had the same thought as Mark, it may be very close to the aluminum, especially with carpet installed. I have the std FFR pedal and made new mounting holes to shift it away from the aluminum panel as it was very tight.

    I also did not have room to easily get my foot between the brake pedal and the footbox side to get on and off the throttle without catching on the brake. Shifting the brake pedal pad to the left solved that problem but when I started driving it I would catch the brake pedal while pushing the clutch pedal in. I trimmed the left set of holes off the pedal pad and that solved it for good.
    I will likely trim my clutch pad to match so I have more room to move my foot off to the left of it, dead pedal area.

    FYI, I do have size 12s but wearing very skinny Vans shoes that are good for driving, not big clunky boots.
    Last edited by Murd; 12-05-2018 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Typo

  27. #16

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    Hacksaw - happy to take back the pedal if you did not use it
    www.breezeautomotive.com 2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.

  28. #17
    Papa's Avatar
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    Another tip - shift the pads for the clutch and brake one hole over to add some space between the go pedal and the brake.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 12-08-2018 at 12:15 AM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
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  29. #18
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Not a Coyote pedal but was also looking for something better than what came with the kit.

    I made this setup for my mechanical linkage setup. It's actually a highly modified Russ Thompson pedal.



    Attached Images Attached Images
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

  30. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post
    Hacksaw - happy to take back the pedal if you did not use it
    Thanks Mark, I will probably take you up on that.

  31. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Another tip - shift the pads for the clutch and brake one hole over to add some space between the go pedal and the brake.

    Dave
    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    I had the same thought as Mark, it may be very close to the aluminum, especially with carpet installed. I have the std FFR pedal and made new mounting holes to shift it away from the aluminum panel as it was very tight.

    I also did not have room to easily get my foot between the brake pedal and the footbox side to get on and off the throttle without catching on the brake. Shifting the brake pedal pad to the left solved that problem but when I started driving it I would catch the brake pedal while pushing the clutch pedal in. I trimmed the left set of holes off the pedal pad and that solved it for good.
    I will likely trim my clutch pad to match so I have more room to move my foot off to the left of it, dead pedal area.

    FYI, I do have size 12s but wearing very skinny Vans shoes that are good for driving, not big clunky boots.

    I will for sure pay attention to how they all work together with during final assembly and adjust as needed. I appreciate the tips and feedback.
    I also, wear a size 12.

  32. #21
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    [QUOTE=CDXXVII;349215]Not a Coyote pedal but was also looking for something better than what came with the kit.

    I made this setup for my mechanical linkage setup. It's actually a highly modified Russ Thompson pedal.


    I saw something very similar and may have been yours. That was my plan and why I originally bought the Breeze pedal. Then I came up with this solution.

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