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Thread: Roll bar cross member: 1 1/2"

  1. #1
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Roll bar cross member: 1 1/2"

    Has anyone fabricated their own Roll Bar Cross Member?

    ********** seems to be permanently out of 1 1/2" size. Also I am not sure if ACTON still makes them.

    I know Breeze sells a weldable cross member for their 1 3/4" Roll Bar. But I was interested in fabricating something similar to **********'s with clamp brackets.

    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    how about one of these?
    https://www.mcmaster.com/=1fqku6g
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    how about one of these?
    https://www.mcmaster.com/=1fqku6g
    Craig, dead link.
    Dave
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    I have friends that fabricate and weld. We ordered sticks of 1-1/2" OD, .095" wall 1020 DOM tubing from a local supplier. Cut, bent & welded at the friend's shop. My design, their fabrication skills. Couldn't have done it without them.

    www.mcmaster.com Raw Materials and start selecting what you need.

    Jim

  5. #5
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Another source of metal including DOM round tubing is Online Metalshttps://www.onlinemetals.com/
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

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  6. #6
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    I would not use the clamps for this project. Welding the crossbar into the hoop will be far safer.

    I did mine about ten years ago. One thing that will help is to tack weld a sacrificial brace to the bottom of the hoop so that when you weld in the crossbar the heat will not distort the spacing of the legs. After the crossbar is welded and cooled, then cut off the brace.. Not sure if it is required, but it is an easy and quick way to avoid a fitment problem after you are done. This is one of the welds that I had a pro do so that the penetration was up to the task.

    One other thing. the crossbar makes a great place to mount a third brake light. I found a 1 inch high x 10 inch long led that is semi hidden under the wrapped belts and bar. Very visible, it works great without being too obvious.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derald Rice View Post
    I would not use the clamps for this project. Welding the crossbar into the hoop will be far safer.

    I did mine about ten years ago. One thing that will help is to tack weld a sacrificial brace to the bottom of the hoop so that when you weld in the crossbar the heat will not distort the spacing of the legs. After the crossbar is welded and cooled, then cut off the brace.. Not sure if it is required, but it is an easy and quick way to avoid a fitment problem after you are done. This is one of the welds that I had a pro do so that the penetration was up to the task.

    One other thing. the crossbar makes a great place to mount a third brake light. I found a 1 inch high x 10 inch long led that is semi hidden under the wrapped belts and bar. Very visible, it works great without being too obvious.
    Everybody all good information.

    Yes, I am very familiar with McMaster - couldn't do this build without them.

    Derald,

    What is your objection to using clamps?
    Last edited by Scott Zackowski; 12-03-2018 at 10:35 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Zackowski View Post

    Derald,

    What is your objection to using clamps?
    In my opinion the clamps are a weak link. I know that they are convenient, and if you have a chrome roll bar, I can appreciate the reluctance to weld on it. But a fishmouthed DOM tube that is welded by a competent welder will bend before the welds break, and that is what I am betting my life on.

    Now lets talk about the belt attachment method. Some of the clamp on bars have eye bolts to snap the harness into, instead of wrapping the belts. Now the clamps may not be the weak link, but the eye bolts are. And those eye bolts are aimed at the back of your head. Sort of like russian roulette.

    Now, go look at any sanctioning body's rulebook. I don't think that you will find any of them allow clamp on harness bars in classes where a harness is required.

    Derald.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derald Rice View Post
    In my opinion the clamps are a weak link. I know that they are convenient, and if you have a chrome roll bar, I can appreciate the reluctance to weld on it. But a fishmouthed DOM tube that is welded by a competent welder will bend before the welds break, and that is what I am betting my life on.

    Now lets talk about the belt attachment method. Some of the clamp on bars have eye bolts to snap the harness into, instead of wrapping the belts. Now the clamps may not be the weak link, but the eye bolts are. And those eye bolts are aimed at the back of your head. Sort of like russian roulette.

    Now, go look at any sanctioning body's rulebook. I don't think that you will find any of them allow clamp on harness bars in classes where a harness is required.

    Derald.
    Thanks

  10. #10
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Last edited by CraigS; 12-04-2018 at 08:19 AM.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Much better link.

    Very interesting!

    Thanks

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