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Senior Member
Front LCA install alignment problems
Hi, I've scoured the forums and everything seems to be quite a bit older about this topic. I'm wondering if anyone else is having this issue as well - I have chassis #546, picked up 6 October 2018.
I bought some Beck-Arnley aftermarket aluminum LCA's to go on my 818C. I managed to misplace the original stock bolts, so I went and got 1/2" grade 8 hardware instead (but will still try to hunt down the slightly larger and correct M14 bolts). I've clearcoated them, swapped the rear bushing brackets, put the flat side up, and flipped over the black brackets for added camber/caster (?). I then torqued everything to factory spec, though in going back and reading I may loosen and cut holes through the firewall (gulp!) to tighten later.
Anyway, after enlarging the front holes to actually fit the front bushing bolt, the rear bolts don't align at all! Any suggestions (especially ones that don't involve hacking up the chassis or bracket)? See pics.
When I do get everything to fit, it's clearly binding when I try to move it and it squeals horribly (the rubber bushings at the rear) - a clear sign something is not right. HELP!!
IMG_20181130_162858.jpg IMG_20181130_163919.jpg
Last edited by octobersknight; 12-05-2018 at 01:18 PM.
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You have "L" mounted on the "R" side according to the photo. "L" should be on drive side I think.
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My aluminum LCA's were originally installed in the wrong (outer) holes in the front and moving them into the correct position took a lot of force prying with various prybars (despite everything relevant being loosened or removed first).
They don't squeal and suspension travel seems good but they were a real pain to move into the correct position.
Where specifically are you getting binding happening?
Last edited by DND; 12-28-2018 at 03:05 PM.
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Senior Member
They are swapped L-R correctly.
I am mounting to the inner front and inner rear holes, since they are sedan arms. I get binding at either the front or back, I think mostly the back due to the noise. When I push down on the arms, they spring back up and don't droop under their own weight.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
octobersknight
Hi, I've scoured the forums and everything seems to be quite a bit older about this topic. I'm wondering if anyone else is having this issue as well - I have chassis #, picked up 6 October 2018.
I bought some Beck-Arnley aftermarket aluminum LCA's to go on my 818C. I managed to misplace the original stock bolts, so I went and got 1/2" grade 8 hardware instead (but will still try to hunt down the slightly larger and correct M14 bolts). I've clearcoated them, swapped the rear bushing brackets, put the flat side up, and flipped over the black brackets for added camber/caster (?). I then torqued everything to factory spec, though in going back and reading I may loosen and cut holes through the firewall (gulp!) to tighten later.
Anyway, after enlarging the front holes to actually fit the front bushing bolt, the rear bolts don't align at all! Any suggestions (especially ones that don't involve hacking up the chassis or bracket)? See pics.
When I do get everything to fit, it's clearly binding when I try to move it and it squeals horribly (the rubber bushings at the rear) - a clear sign something is not right. HELP!!
IMG_20181130_162858.jpg IMG_20181130_163919.jpg
You have them together correctly.
They would fit better if you didn't flip over the black bracket.
But you want to push out the back of the LCA out which in results in the ball joint moving forward. This allows more front caster and more clearance between front tire and front firewall. A good thing you will learn in the future. Don't worry if the rubber on the front of the LCA is a little twisted.
Use the correct bolts in the suspension. any slop is not good on suspension bolts.
Bob
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Does anybody else have any ideas? I'm not super comfortable just allowing things to be misaligned, as I'm afraid that will lead to catastrophic aluminum failure somewhere in the system. Should I just slightly bend the front "arm" part of the LCA to make everything line up without binding?
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To my knowledge, other people using the aluminum arms have not had this problem (I'm using the steel ones so I can't really weigh in personally). So either the aftermarket arms you have are somehow slightly different and the caster mod does not work with them or something else is up. Do the arms fit ok without flipping over the bracket for caster?
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Senior Member
Try loosening up the back bolt by the firewall and seeing if this reduces the arms from springing back up. That bolt is supposed to be torqued with the car on the ground. I would not expect the control arms to droop under their own weight, even on production cars there is typically some resistance to their motion. The squeaking could also be due to the bushings being new.
I've seen the topic of control arm fitment come up from time to time, so it's not uncommon to require some effort to align the holes, but I've never seen anyone report damage after driving. I recall some effort to fit my control arms as well, I'm running (new) sti aluminum ones. I wouldn't try to bend the front part of the LCA as this may induce damage or cracks; I'd expect the rubber bushings to fail far before the aluminum.
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Senior Member
Alright, feedback from FFR (Jim from engineering): Loosen the back nut, as that's supposed to be tightened at ride height anyway. Also, try flipping the hurricane over (upside-down) to see if that changes things. Go with whichever orientation aligns better. Either way, FFR is not worried about the misalignment hurting anything and I should be good to go.
Yay!