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Thread: #9405 erstanl's MkIV build

  1. #1
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    #9405 erstanl's MkIV build

    So I started a basic kit build a couple of months ago. Ordered it on 6/21/2018, it was delivered on 8/21/2018. I am still waiting on a single POL item, the steering wheel. Other than that, I think I have it all. Haven't had a minute to create a build thread so here we go.

    What I am shooting for:
    408w
    TKO600
    IRS
    hydroboost brakes
    13" PBR front brakes
    13" IRS brake kit

    Lots of other decisions to be made, but right now I'm just enjoying the exquisite detail of it all. Probably won't be quite as picky though once spring rolls around

    I'll add some pics of the progress. I have always enjoyed looking at everyone builds, maybe someday someone will find my information useful. I'd appreciate some feedback if you see things going sideways!

    Prep for the big day:
    2018-08-13_21-10-26_099-1.jpg 2018-08-13_19-50-12_804.jpg 2018-08-13_21-11-09_756-1.jpg
    Last edited by erstanl; 12-04-2018 at 03:02 PM.

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    Last edited by erstanl; 12-04-2018 at 03:02 PM.

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    Next, I rebuilt the 2004 donor pedal box. Pretty fun.

    1) Nice coat of paint
    2) Added some welds to stiffen it up
    3) Added Steeda clutch quadrant and cable adjuster. I added a set screw to the rear eye of the quadrant. Too much play for my liking. Once it was mounted, I also adjusted it to rotate within 4 thou parallelism with the pedal box. Made sure it was dead cented lined up with the clutch cable.
    4) Replaced all bushings
    5) Replaced the clutch switch

    2018-09-07_16-38-10_850.jpg 2018-09-07_17-37-42_130.jpg 2018-09-13_21-14-50_521.jpg 2018-12-01_11-16-42_265.jpg 2018-09-13_21-14-40_091.jpg
    Last edited by erstanl; 12-17-2018 at 12:45 PM.

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    Installed front suspension. Used the tubular LCA's, and 2004 PBR 13" mustang front calipers. Ended up using red POR-15 caliper paint. Strange stuff, but once you get used to it, its pretty nice. Id use it again.

    2018-10-13_12-16-56_352.jpg 2018-10-13_12-17-22_942.jpg 2018-10-13_12-17-33_440.jpg

  5. #5
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    Next, installed the IRS. That thing is heavy. Went with 3.55 gears, and the swaybar kit. I had to "adjust" some of the bracket mounts, as they were too tight. Used a piece of 1/2-13 all-thread, a couple of washers and nuts. Placed properly, and expanded with great care, I was able to open up some of the brackets without banging on them.

    2018-11-01_21-14-09_284.jpg 2018-11-10_14-16-35_332.jpg 2018-11-24_14-47-01_922.jpg

  6. #6
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    Working on the driver side front footbox now. Just mocking it all up before I make it final.

    2018-12-01_10-39-49_481.jpeg 2018-12-01_17-08-17_618.jpg 2018-12-01_17-08-28_921.jpg

    I have a question on this. That booster mounted up okay, but the adapter does not seat fully against the steel. Its partially on the aluminum, so it can rock. Are you guys just cutting out the adapter shape in the aluminum so it seats against the steel? Also, don't know what the part looks like that actually transfers the force from the booster to the MC. Looks like it should be a rod of some type, but I don't have one, and cannot find an example. Any help, pictures or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

  7. #7
    Junior Member Venom61's Avatar
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    Did that booster come with the kit? I don't recall that option when we ordered ours in December of 2016?
    Bob (Building with my son Justin)

    MK IV #9040 - Complete kit, IRS, Forte Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Delivered 2/14/17.

  8. #8
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    Venom, no. I sourced it from a 2004 Mach1 (reman), to ensure it matched the pedal box.

    Scratch that. The reman's dont come with the output rod. Had to order a new one from Motorcraft, its got the output rod. Hopefully ill mock it all up this weekend. Pics coming.
    Last edited by erstanl; 12-20-2018 at 05:33 PM.

  9. #9
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    The Pedal Box Looks Good...…....I went with the same one..!! I believe that white switch is for the Cruise Control Disconnect...!

  10. #10
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    I had the same problem with my 1996 Ford Master Cylinder......I purchased the Wildwood Universal Brake Pedal Pushrod Kit...from Summit Racing...…...included several adapters + [2] different length pushrods....! worked perfect..!

  11. #11
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    Update: 1/2/2019

    Happy new year all! Made a little progress over the holiday break.

    First, spent Christmas eve yanking this 5.8 from a 1994 F150 with my family. Great times Just waiting on the stand to come in, and ill see if all the work was worth it. Still mulling over some options here, but intending to punch it out, and stroke to a 408:
    IMG_4780.jpg IMG_4763.jpg

    Got the steering rack extended, and the inner tie rods shortened:
    IMG_4738.jpg

    Mocked up the front footbox a little more. Waiting on a brake light switch, and steering rack bushings from Breeze.
    IMG_4838.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by erstanl; 02-05-2019 at 12:35 PM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erstanl View Post
    Next, I rebuilt the 2004 donor pedal box. Pretty fun.

    1) Nice coat of paint
    2) Added some welds to stiffen it up
    3) Added Steeda clutch quadrant and cable adjuster. I added a set screw to the rear eye of the quadrant. Too much play for my liking. Once it was mounted, I also adjusted it to rotate within 4 thou parallelism with the pedal box. Made sure it was dead cented lined up with the clutch cable.
    4) Replaced all bushings
    5) Replaced the clutch switch

    2018-09-07_16-38-10_850.jpg 2018-09-07_17-37-42_130.jpg 2018-09-13_21-14-50_521.jpg 2018-12-01_11-16-42_265.jpg 2018-09-13_21-14-40_091.jpg
    Nicely done! Seems like so few of these are used now (I used a refurbished one)...

    Chris
    Last edited by cgundermann; 01-02-2019 at 09:45 PM.
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  13. #13
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    Installed the 1993 power rack with the extensions supplied by FFR, Breeze solid bushings, and Moog tie rod ends. I had to clearance the frame a bit to get the rack and bellows to clear, but it wasn't much, and looks pretty good. The Breeze solid mounts are very nice. I'd use them again.
    IMG_4859.jpgIMG_4862.jpgIMG_4867.jpg

    Also started stripping the 351w. Bit of a mess, but so far no indications of trouble.
    IMG_4863.jpgIMG_4866.jpg

  14. #14
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    So I broke down the F4TE, it looks pretty good, other than being totally dirty. Its got a 4" bore (not rebuilt), and I was able to remove a broken water pump bolt. From my perspective, its looking good. Now I need to find a good machine shop in the area to clean it and check for cracks. Fingers crossed. The crank looks perfect, and all the valve train is in great shape. Almost a shame to not re-use it. Decisions! The plan is to get the cylinders bored to 4.030" and get a good stroker kit with a 4" throw steel crank, forged rods, and possibly forged pistons. I need to figure out which head/piston combo I will be using so I'd love some suggestions in that department. I'm looking for 450+ HP, but would like to run pump gas. I do intend to use aluminum heads. Lots more research in my future to get this all matched up properly.
    IMG_4885.jpg IMG_4874.jpg

    Meanwhile, I'm drilling holes and using up all my cleco's. Had to order some more. It really is pretty awesome how FF put so much work into the aluminum. It fits together quite well. I also decided to go the raw aluminum look, and using sharkhide. That is some weird stuff, but it looks great.
    IMG_4936.jpg

    One thing I have noticed is that when I switched from the poly clutch quadrant to an aluminum steeda piece, is that the clutch pedal throw is enormous. I am assuming that I will have to add limiters on both ends, but I am hesitant to do that until I have a clutch. I'd hate to limit the throw in such a way that the clutch isn't fully disengaged/engaged. You can kind of see it in the pic below. The throw is also so deep that I had to temporarily take that plastic clip off of the clutch safety switch so I wouldn't accidentally break it off.
    IMG_4723.jpg

    Not a huge fan of the lines on the power steering rack. Not kinked, but not exactly free flowing either. I am going to try and bend some new lines, so we will see how that goes. Looks like its using just a simple bubble flair. Took a few measurements to ensure I get the right parts.
    IMG_4840.jpg IMG_4842.jpg IMG_4843.jpg
    Last edited by erstanl; 02-05-2019 at 12:28 PM.

  15. #15

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    I enjoy seeing this type of build, and reminds me of mine.

    You may be able to get a different steering line that's not kinked from the local "pick a part" that's both OEM and fits your liking. No bending or flaring required.

    Rock On!
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos
    Blog @ BuildaRoadster.com

  16. #16
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Looking good!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  17. #17
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    So I took the 351w roller block to a machine shop (Pro Machine) yesterday, they are going to check it out and get ready to punch it out to a 408. The machinist just needs to know the heads I'm using so he can order the proper pistons for the eagle rotating assembly. Still trying to figure that out, so I need to call Mr. Levy later today and chat about the top end.

    In the meantime, I have started fitting the passenger footbox.
    IMG_4936.jpg IMG_4937.jpg IMG_4940.jpg IMG_4941.jpg
    Last edited by erstanl; 02-16-2019 at 02:21 PM.

  18. #18
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    I got the block to David at Pro Machine, he has the rotating assembly on the way and a mess of ARP hardware. He is going to do all the machining and also clearance the block for me. It cleaned up nice, and there aren't any issues. I also have a 408 top end kit coming from Mr. Levy. Super excited to put this thing together!

    In the mean time, I put together the fuel tank and got it installed. Used an in tank Walbro 255 pump, and a Breeze big bore vent kit. Breezes stuff has been awesome so far. Great customer service too! I drilled out the ends of the hanger as suggested in the build manual. Everything went together well, other than having to bend the vertical tank support out so the tank would fit in. I do wonder if the fuel lines on the stock 1993 hanger are able to support a 255 Walbro. They just seem undersized, but apparently a lot of folks run this way.
    IMG_4952.jpg IMG_4951.jpg IMG_4950.jpg IMG_4949.jpg IMG_4947.jpg
    Last edited by erstanl; 02-24-2019 at 07:46 AM.

  19. #19
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    Spent some time fitting up the floor pans and the driver side aluminum. Its coming together well. Just waiting for all the engine parts to start coming in. Hard to be patient!

    IMG_4960.jpg IMG_4959.jpg IMG_4958.jpg IMG_4957.jpg

  20. #20
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    Got the block back from Pro Machine. It turned out well. This is what I had done:
    1) Bore 4.030
    2) Square the decks based on the main
    3) Crack check, hot tank
    4) Align hone the main
    5) All new core and oil gallery plugs
    6) Cylinder hone
    7) New cam bearings
    8) Balancing of new Eagle steel crank, balancer and flywheel

    57384418656__E543D9EE-B53C-4807-8248-D167FDE45433.JPG IMG_4975.jpg IMG_4972.jpg IMG_4971.jpg IMG_4970.jpg IMG_4973.jpg

    Now, I am waiting on the top end parts from Mr. Levy, then its time to put things together!
    Last edited by erstanl; 03-11-2019 at 10:40 AM.

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