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Thread: Ford 302 headers, need porting?

  1. #1
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Ford 302 headers, need porting?

    Want to make sure I get the right headers for the 302 (347).
    I'm noticing 2 BBK unequal length shorties. Models 15150 and 15250 (both ceramic coated)
    Does it matter which ones?
    Thanks for your help

    Steve
    Last edited by FF33rod; 12-29-2018 at 08:39 PM.

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    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    I was going to use these, but ended up with a Coyote engine. These are stainless steel from Pypes.A30117BD-3223-45ED-B019-2ADF254D4DC4.png
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I used the BBK 15150 Ceramic coated 302 shorty headers.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post192836


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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  5. #4
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Tony @ FFR confirmed, 15150 is the way to go.
    He's such a great guy. Always answers my email even if there's an "out of office" response initially.

  6. #5
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Finally received my headers today. Taking a look at how the pipes are welded to the mounting frame, there's a fair bit of restriction from extra weld material. The exhaust ports on the AFR heads are 1.5" wide while the header mount allows for 1.25" (further constricted by the inside part of the weld) so I'd like to have these flow as well as possible....

    IMG_2615a.jpg

    What are the opinions about grinding the weld so they are even with the pipes to remove some of the restriction. Anyone else do this? To be clear, I'm not suggesting grinding away any of the pipe, only the weld to match the inside perimeter of the pipe.

    Thanks for the help
    Steve
    Last edited by FF33rod; 12-29-2018 at 08:47 PM.

  7. #6
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    From your description it sounds like your headers are smaller than the port size of your heads. If that's the case, I think you'd be wasting your time trying to open up the ports on your headers. And the little bit of perceived restriction is likely not enough to even see on a dyno or flow bench and certainly not with a butt dyno while driving the car.

    That said, I leave you with this. When I make headers I will knock down the high spots and blend the weld but this is tricky as you don't want to cut too much as that will weaken the joint. So yes, you can "grind" some of the weld but I recommend you use a carbide burr and sanding rolls rater than a grinding wheel as you'll have more control. But I also make the headers fit the exhaust port and size them based on computer modeling to encourage scavenging at a particular RPM range for a specific engine combination and use, so I feel the extra effort at the flange end of the header is justified.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Thanks NAZ, appreciate the suggestions and advice. I'm kinda laughing at myself now, things that you don't think of when you're a newb. Kinda silly to have a cool engine with go fast parts and not have headers that fit the exhaust port. I wanted to have the FFR recommended headers so they mated up with the exhaust with no problems but didn't think for a second about the exhaust port size. I'll go with it for now and possibly look for a better solution later on - there must be some out there that match better, fit in the engine bay and then just require a custom J pipe to mate up with the exhaust.

  9. #8
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Don't laugh too hard as you're thinking in the right direction. The first issue is with the design of the car itself. Space is VERY limited to run a performance exhaust on these cars. Great for a street rod that is not trying to extract every bit of power from the engine but not so much for a high flowing performance engine you plan to race with. My engine even without any power adders needs 3.5" from the collector back. Try finding a 1.75" to 2.00" step header with 3.50" collector to fit that chassis. Then snake a 3.5" exhaust pipe through the chassis including a 3.5" muffler and exit somewhere behind the cockpit. OK, try to find a 3.00" system that will fit. That's why I built my own exhaust system. Or if I didn't have the ability to roll my own I'd have had to purchase a custom built system. Either way, the FFR design does not accommodate high power levels.

    Now I'm only at ~550 HP naturally aspirated (650 with a 100-shot of nitrous oxide) but in today's world of easy HP, that's kind of middle of the road. You can buy a variety of Detroit iron now with much more HP than that and they come with a warranty. And you can buy crate engines with more power designed for the street. Add twin turbos and 1200 HP and things get even more complicated. But I don't see this changing anytime soon as the reality is that an unequal length, smallish, non-tuned headers and exhaust system will be just fine for a garden variety street rod. And that's what fits the 33HR chassis design and probably the needs of 99% plus of the builders for now.

    So go with what you got and have fun with your build. If you want (need) more power you're going to find other things beside the exhaust that will be holding you back.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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