I haven't posted on this forum. Just the other one. Getting closer to the go cart stage. Currently working on the fuel system and wiring routing.
I attached the upper radiator hose. I'm not sure if I got the corrugated radiator tubing for enough in the adapter. I pushed and rotated it as far as I could go. I bought some T-bolt clamps and gates power grip clamps. I figure I may use both. I don't want the hoses blowing off during the go cart phase
Since I put my brake lines on the back frame rail I had to make a bracket to put it on the rear sheet metal side. The filter is now easily accessible from the battery access panel. But since that was there now and I hated the battery location, I built a battery box for my trunk. I just need to make sure I coat the inside with a non-conductive coating. I added a breeze AN6 return bulkhead fitting and drilled an extra hole in my tank. The o-rings were a bit hokey so hopefully it will seal. Trying to figure out my battery and rear harness wiring. I think I'm going to run it up the middle on the passenger side. Maybe put some clickbond zip tie fasteners on the side of my transmission. I want to run the power to a 4 lug terminal bus on my inner firewall and have both the battery power and rear harness come up through the tunnel. Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?
Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?
I bought some longer battery cable so I can have cutoff switch between seats (security only, not racing) and remote jumper posts in trunk - and then ran them up the chassis next to transmission. Seems better that way so they're tidier, more rigidly mounted and out of the way when you're pulling your transmission. Will still be inside your tunnel of course
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Since I put my brake lines on the back frame rail I had to make a bracket to put it on the rear sheet metal side. The filter is now easily accessible from the battery access panel. But since that was there now and I hated the battery location, I built a battery box for my trunk. I just need to make sure I coat the inside with a non-conductive coating. I added a breeze AN6 return bulkhead fitting and drilled an extra hole in my tank. The o-rings were a bit hokey so hopefully it will seal. Trying to figure out my battery and rear harness wiring. I think I'm going to run it up the middle on the passenger side. Maybe put some clickbond zip tie fasteners on the side of my transmission. I want to run the power to a 4 lug terminal bus on my inner firewall and have both the battery power and rear harness come up through the tunnel. Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?
I am running mine between the tunnel and console. I kept having recurring nightmares about all that wiring in very close proximity to a driveshaft turning 6,000 RPM's. lol
33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
I'm having my first kid in June so I've tried to step up my progress a notch during Christmas break. It seems for every hurdle overcome, another appears. Still have not figured out my steering limiter situation. I put one nylon stop on the driver's side which worked perfectly, tire does not bump the a-arm. I put one, then two, then 3 on the passenger side and they all disappear under the lip of rack. I'm not sure if they are the right diameter... I think they are supposed to bottom out before they disappear and may not be the right diameter. I'm worried that they will get chewed up inside and then i'll have FODed my steering rack. Anyone with insight with where the limiters are supposed to hit on the passenger side would be greatly appreciated.
I've created a battery box for the trunk testing out my cheapo harbor freight brake press. May not be the smartest thing to make my box out of metal but I painted the inside with POR15 and added some insulating material near where I would be wrenching. I may put some more insulating material in there just to be sure....
Following the battery box installation I finished my fuel system. A mechanical pump would have been the easiest thing to do but I thought maybe I'd like to go EFI someday so I tried to make my system flexible. I capped off the return line on the tank, drilled a hole and added an AN6 return line bulkhead fitting that drops into the tank (ordered from Breeze Automotive), Holley Blue Fuel Pump, a prepump filter and post pump filter (i think 100 micron in and 40 micron out) which runs to an Aeromotive pressure regulator into Holley carb. Fuel lines are thermal wrapped near the exhaust exit. I used click bond fasteners on the fuel tank to secure the lines. I put in a bulkhead fitting near the firewall to easily disconnect the lines in the engine bay (unnecessary extra leak point) As with everything I'm doing, this is my first fuel system so hopefully it doesn't leak and that there is enough space between the fuel tank, lines and back fiberglass waterfall piece. I'm worried about using the stock tank but I'm spent so much money so far I just can't buy another item. So we'll see how it works.
Built a bracket to hold my power steering module and clutch fluid reservoir. Going to try to bleed my clutch today. I bought a hydraulic clutch from Forte because my power brake kit from Whitby interfered with the cable clutch. My goal is to have both of these items easily accessible from the access panel in the fiberglass above it. There is some worry about the PS module overheating in this location but I'm going to go for it. I've seen others put it up there.
Drilled all the holes in the sheet metal and have started work on the center fiberglass tunnel. I guess I was in too much of a hurry and was significantly off on about 10 holes in the drivers side sheetmetal floor. I'm going to plug them with some JB weld steel stick. Nothing fits precisely... or i don't have the patience to make it perfect. There will be a bit of seam sealer used eventually. Especially on the firewall. I forgot to use silicone when installing it and the metal piece under my fuel tank. I'm not removing either so we'll see how that goes. Thankfully I live in southern california where rain is rare.
Another area that's a little hokey is the shifter bezel. My TKO600 shifter is slightly off center so that only 3 of the 4 holes in the shifter bezel lie flat. Not sure how to get the other one fastened yet. Maybe some fiberglass work? Anyone else experience this?
I've got a hydraulic clutch now! My trans tunnel came pretty close to the clutch bracket so I had to cut it in half. Hopefully I don't have any issues with any of this. THe only thing I'm finding is that the clutch cable may be slightly in the way of the throttle cables (not sure yet, still trying to figure that out)... It's all a bit close the the trans tunnel but it should be about the .5" in factory five recommends.
Now the damn accelerator pedal, e-brake cable and final electrical. Then I should be ready for my first start!
First start today! Fired right up. Ran it at 2500 RPM for 15 minutes then set the timing. Aside for needing to tighten a couple connections, everything appears good. Bought the shortblock for coast high performance but built the entire rest of the engine. First engine for me. Felt good.
Got a little more ballsy and took it down the street. Lost a taillight as it was just lightly clamped on the back. Guess that's not bad of a casualty. The front brake pistons ended up not retracting so I never got it out of first gear and I had significant braking resistance the entire ride. Not sure what's going on. Some of the guys though the master cylinder might be sticking. Slightly bled the front brake and backed it back into the garage. Put it up on jack stands. Brakes didn't stick anymore. Not sure what's going on here. Thoughts? I have Whitby Power brakes....
I will be following to see your conclusion on the front brakes sticking. I too have the Whitby brakes and the front stuck when I took it out. Still haven't found out why. But I have not taken it out again since. I was reading about maybe having to adjust the small screw plunger on the inside. Will let you know though for sure if I find the solution. Might try to get out and look at it this week. Been busy. 2 yr old boy will zap your wrench time lol
I will be following to see your conclusion on the front brakes sticking. I too have the Whitby brakes and the front stuck when I took it out. Still haven't found out why. But I have not taken it out again since. I was reading about maybe having to adjust the small screw plunger on the inside. Will let you know though for sure if I find the solution. Might try to get out and look at it this week. Been busy. 2 yr old boy will zap your wrench time lol
Definitely will post the resolution to the brake issue. I have a boy coming in June so I'm trying to get as much done before that as possible. Big goal was this first start milestone to at least get the engine lubed up!
Some more trouble shooting today. Seems it was not just my front brakes locking up, my rears as well. I took the master cylinder off and definitely discovered that the pushrod was too long. I adjusted the pushrod all the way in (which seemed to just barely seem okay) and then rebled the brakes. Seemed to work, MOSTLY. After driving it around the block a couple times, with really hard braking, the rears seemed to stick a little bit (and made some noise). I backed it back into my garage and turned off the engine. Tried pushing it back and forth and it seemed fine. I think I may slot some washers and move out he master cylinder just a little bit further and see what that does. I imagine it'll make them too squishy but there could still be some restriction on that pushrod.
Found other problems too. My car comes close to stalling on aggressive braking. A quick google seems that it's almost 100% carb related. My fuel tank is really low on fuel to but I don't think it'd cause the RPM to drop down so significantly that fast. It takes a while to drain those bowls.
And i seem to have a small oil leak between the intake manifold and the block at the rear of my car. I must not have put enough RTV. Those with 302 engines probably know where I'm talking about.
Haven't done a post in a while. I'm currently working on the hardtop and have a question.
Window trim - Does everyone trim the window opening to just inside the blacked out part of the glass? See below.
Also, does anyone have the power window install drawings (PDFs) that Tim Collins made? I PM'd him on the other site but it appears he hasn't logged on in quite some time. trim.JPG
Haven't done a post in a while. I'm currently working on the hardtop and have a question.
Window trim - Does everyone trim the window opening to just inside the blacked out part of the glass? See below.
Also, does anyone have the power window install drawings (PDFs) that Tim Collins made? I PM'd him on the other site but it appears he hasn't logged on in quite some time. trim.JPG
Several builders had suggested to me at this process to seal or paint the lips black instead of the color of the car, so that when the sealant is applied you won't be able to see the color through the sealant.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Haven't done a post in a while. I'm currently working on the hardtop and have a question.
Window trim - Does everyone trim the window opening to just inside the blacked out part of the glass? See below.
Also, does anyone have the power window install drawings (PDFs) that Tim Collins made? I PM'd him on the other site but it appears he hasn't logged on in quite some time. trim.JPG
PM me with your email address and I will send them to you.
33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
PM me with your email address and I will send them to you.
Thanks. Someone provided them from the other forum. I've been warned that I should rethink whether I want to do the power windows... Anyone have feedback on how they look/like them? I live in SoCal so ever seeing rain is not very likely.
So finding time to work on the hot rod and having a 7 month old are not conducive yet I was able to sneak in some hours this weekend. I am trying to get the hardtop roughed in so I can put the glass in and drive it around unfinished for a while. I have filled in the bottom gap, ground down the seams, rough sanded the edges, drilled the pinholes on the seam and filled in with 3M HSRF. Going to leave it be for a couple weeks, come back and sand it down and then start the Rage work. Hopefully I'm doing it all right. Incremental steps and someday this will be done!
Oh, and apparently I don't know how to install rivnuts. For the second time in two years I've crunched my ring finger pretty badly by not engaging enough threads in the tool and having it "let go" while compressing the rivnut.
Fitting up my hardtop windshield right now. It's not the best fit in my hardtop. When the window glass is installed, does the adhesive generally fill the uneveness or do I need to do build this up?
Since I bought the short block assembled but spec'd and built everything else myself, this really gives me confidence to know that the carb is dialed in correctly and she's okay to drive. Still have hesitation on hard throttle, going back on Friday to have the carb guy adjust my accelerator pump. 262 miles on the odometer now. Not enough!
Been working on my doors a little more. I hate the little pin-knobs that come with the kit. They are just another death trap feature on my car right now along with the absence of a roll bar, no neck support and an e-brake I can't reach when I use the four point harness. I used a bunch of motorcycle throttle cable parts from Venhill. You can order a full kit or individual throttle cable parts like barrel adjusters and clevises, parts that I was having trouble sourcing anywhere else. I've got extra from when I try to do my outer door handle. Still not sure how to rig up a double clevis in that small of a space. I'm sure I'll figure out something.
I really hate these doors. They continue to be a big challenge for me and I havent even done the power windows. Another midnight night going to bed with fiberglass all in my hands and forearms.
Fostia, did those inside door handles come with your kit? I didn't get them.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
Fostia, did those inside door handles come with your kit? I didn't get them.
No, the little cheap little 5 dollar pins came with the kit that you install at the latch. I also received exterior turn handles that I'm not going to use.
I used my friend's plasma cutter to cut a hole in a steel square for each one then welded up a stop for the cable end. The plasma cutter barely made it through the stock (it's by no means a quality machine) and my welds leave something to be desired. But it's all behind the door panel so I'm not too worried about it.
Thanks for the info fostia. The pins attached to the bear claw locks are pretty chincy.
I've got the same opinion of the doors. Can't wait (lol) to start the power windows.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
... little pin-knobs ... just another death trap feature ... along with the absence of a roll bar, no neck support and an e-brake I can't reach when I use the four point harness...
Well, you are building a hot rod... Death trap is implied. But, the worst idea they ever did with this kit is to send it with 4-point harnesses.
Originally Posted by fostia
...I also received exterior turn handles that I'm not going to use.
Did you order the hard top, is that why you got the outside handles?
Originally Posted by fostia
... I used my friend's plasma cutter to cut a hole in a steel square for each one then welded up a stop for the cable end. The plasma cutter barely made it through the stock (it's by no means a quality machine) and my welds leave something to be desired. But it's all behind the door panel so I'm not too worried about it.
Looks like a pretty good job, given the tools used!
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
I have set up my harbor freight paint booth, built an air dryer manifold and shot the underside of the hot top with Southern Polyurethane Epoxy Primer. I borrowed a friends compressor and daisy-chained it with my small one to boost my CFM since I'm not rolling with the big boys yet with a 2 stage (it's on the tool list!). My goal is just to get some body work done, get it primed and then hold off until either I get enough $ for a real paint job or get the motivation to do it myself. Although I worry about the fumes angering the neighbors. The Southern Polyeurethane has UV inhibitors in it so I should be able to drive it around like this for a while. After this is done, it will be time to start tackling the body.
Did a father's day cruise with the wife today. My sister was kind enough to watch the kid. Nice to get out and about. Also finally got both my submarine belts properly through the seats. That's been on my to do list since before my kid was born! (BTW, that's not a handicap spot... it was but not anymore)
Going backwards to go forwards. Took out my seats, rear waterfall and door trim covers. Fiddled around a bit with the door handles and then spent the next couple days aligning to doors. I used the spacer trick in the front to "twist" the doors and amazingly I have them pretty close to where I'm happy with them. I have moved on to the trunk which has been frustrating the hell out of me. I tried to bend a 5/8 square steel bar to the trunk curve and attached it via rivnuts but that didn't work out too well. I'm going to go with Tim Whittaker's trunk bars as others have done on this forum and notch the "X" and then bond everything in. Spending a little more here than I'd like but oh well. It will be nice when the car is semi-done as I won't keep dumping all my $ into it. It also appears my gas tank is leaking. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and get a Boyd tank. So there goes even more $$.
So, while waiting for the trunk hardware to come from Kootenai, I am diving into another task I've been putting off forever and that's my exterior door handles. I may have just committed myself to not going with the power windows as I'm not sure I'll have room for both. I have the kit but have been on the fence anyways based on what other people have said about them. Plus I live in SoCal and what is rain anyways?
So I have one exterior door handle mocked up. I'll need to press it in with some filler with wax paper over the handle to get it nice and flush. I didn't quite do it on the first pass. But it can be done! Took a lot of fine sanding to get the opening just right..... I've been mulling over the best way to install these for a while. Thinking this will work out well.
Ordered two roll bar hoops today. That will be my next project after the exterior door handles. Speaking of which, worked on the exterior passenger door some more tonight. Bonded in a stop for the cable sheath and got both cables hooked up to the same clevis at the bear claw latch. After a bit of tweaking they both work fantastic. I'm hoping I have enough room for the power window glass but I think I might be SOL. Took 6 hours to just do that one handle.. kid goes to bed around 7 then I get to devote 3 hours to the car each night. Seems like I never see my wife anymore. Going camping this weekend in the Big Sur. Driver's side will have to wait until next week. Hopefully it comes out equally as good.