The Traveling Builder

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  4
Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: #1001

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like

    #1001

    I haven't posted on this forum. Just the other one. Getting closer to the go cart stage. Currently working on the fuel system and wiring routing.

    I attached the upper radiator hose. I'm not sure if I got the corrugated radiator tubing for enough in the adapter. I pushed and rotated it as far as I could go. I bought some T-bolt clamps and gates power grip clamps. I figure I may use both. I don't want the hoses blowing off during the go cart phase

    DSC06487.jpg
    DSC06486.jpg

  2. #2
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    Since I put my brake lines on the back frame rail I had to make a bracket to put it on the rear sheet metal side. The filter is now easily accessible from the battery access panel. But since that was there now and I hated the battery location, I built a battery box for my trunk. I just need to make sure I coat the inside with a non-conductive coating. I added a breeze AN6 return bulkhead fitting and drilled an extra hole in my tank. The o-rings were a bit hokey so hopefully it will seal. Trying to figure out my battery and rear harness wiring. I think I'm going to run it up the middle on the passenger side. Maybe put some clickbond zip tie fasteners on the side of my transmission. I want to run the power to a 4 lug terminal bus on my inner firewall and have both the battery power and rear harness come up through the tunnel. Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?

    20181125_120327.jpg
    DSC06470.jpg

  3. #3
    RoadRacer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Manor, TX
    Posts
    802
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by fostia View Post
    Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?
    I bought some longer battery cable so I can have cutoff switch between seats (security only, not racing) and remote jumper posts in trunk - and then ran them up the chassis next to transmission. Seems better that way so they're tidier, more rigidly mounted and out of the way when you're pulling your transmission. Will still be inside your tunnel of course
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  4. Likes AJT '33 liked this post
  5. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Prairieville, Louisiana
    Posts
    587
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looking good. You're my sister car!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  6. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Nederland, Texas
    Posts
    339
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by fostia View Post
    Since I put my brake lines on the back frame rail I had to make a bracket to put it on the rear sheet metal side. The filter is now easily accessible from the battery access panel. But since that was there now and I hated the battery location, I built a battery box for my trunk. I just need to make sure I coat the inside with a non-conductive coating. I added a breeze AN6 return bulkhead fitting and drilled an extra hole in my tank. The o-rings were a bit hokey so hopefully it will seal. Trying to figure out my battery and rear harness wiring. I think I'm going to run it up the middle on the passenger side. Maybe put some clickbond zip tie fasteners on the side of my transmission. I want to run the power to a 4 lug terminal bus on my inner firewall and have both the battery power and rear harness come up through the tunnel. Is it a bad idea to attach the wiring harness to the transmission?

    20181125_120327.jpg
    DSC06470.jpg
    I am running mine between the tunnel and console. I kept having recurring nightmares about all that wiring in very close proximity to a driveshaft turning 6,000 RPM's. lol
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  7. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm having my first kid in June so I've tried to step up my progress a notch during Christmas break. It seems for every hurdle overcome, another appears. Still have not figured out my steering limiter situation. I put one nylon stop on the driver's side which worked perfectly, tire does not bump the a-arm. I put one, then two, then 3 on the passenger side and they all disappear under the lip of rack. I'm not sure if they are the right diameter... I think they are supposed to bottom out before they disappear and may not be the right diameter. I'm worried that they will get chewed up inside and then i'll have FODed my steering rack. Anyone with insight with where the limiters are supposed to hit on the passenger side would be greatly appreciated.

    Steering rack spacers.jpg

    I've created a battery box for the trunk testing out my cheapo harbor freight brake press. May not be the smartest thing to make my box out of metal but I painted the inside with POR15 and added some insulating material near where I would be wrenching. I may put some more insulating material in there just to be sure....

    DSC06693.jpg
    DSC06694.jpg
    DSC06695.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by fostia; 12-31-2018 at 04:46 PM.

  8. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    Following the battery box installation I finished my fuel system. A mechanical pump would have been the easiest thing to do but I thought maybe I'd like to go EFI someday so I tried to make my system flexible. I capped off the return line on the tank, drilled a hole and added an AN6 return line bulkhead fitting that drops into the tank (ordered from Breeze Automotive), Holley Blue Fuel Pump, a prepump filter and post pump filter (i think 100 micron in and 40 micron out) which runs to an Aeromotive pressure regulator into Holley carb. Fuel lines are thermal wrapped near the exhaust exit. I used click bond fasteners on the fuel tank to secure the lines. I put in a bulkhead fitting near the firewall to easily disconnect the lines in the engine bay (unnecessary extra leak point) As with everything I'm doing, this is my first fuel system so hopefully it doesn't leak and that there is enough space between the fuel tank, lines and back fiberglass waterfall piece. I'm worried about using the stock tank but I'm spent so much money so far I just can't buy another item. So we'll see how it works.

    DSC06696.jpg
    DSC06697.jpg
    DSC06698.jpg
    DSC06699.jpg
    DSC06700.jpg
    DSC06709.jpg

  9. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    Built a bracket to hold my power steering module and clutch fluid reservoir. Going to try to bleed my clutch today. I bought a hydraulic clutch from Forte because my power brake kit from Whitby interfered with the cable clutch. My goal is to have both of these items easily accessible from the access panel in the fiberglass above it. There is some worry about the PS module overheating in this location but I'm going to go for it. I've seen others put it up there.

    DSC06707.jpg
    DSC06705.jpg

  10. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    Drilled all the holes in the sheet metal and have started work on the center fiberglass tunnel. I guess I was in too much of a hurry and was significantly off on about 10 holes in the drivers side sheetmetal floor. I'm going to plug them with some JB weld steel stick. Nothing fits precisely... or i don't have the patience to make it perfect. There will be a bit of seam sealer used eventually. Especially on the firewall. I forgot to use silicone when installing it and the metal piece under my fuel tank. I'm not removing either so we'll see how that goes. Thankfully I live in southern california where rain is rare.

    Another area that's a little hokey is the shifter bezel. My TKO600 shifter is slightly off center so that only 3 of the 4 holes in the shifter bezel lie flat. Not sure how to get the other one fastened yet. Maybe some fiberglass work? Anyone else experience this?

    DSC06708.jpg
    DSC06703.jpg
    DSC06702.jpg
    DSC06712.jpg

    That's all for now for my mass upload.

  11. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    I've got a hydraulic clutch now! My trans tunnel came pretty close to the clutch bracket so I had to cut it in half. Hopefully I don't have any issues with any of this. THe only thing I'm finding is that the clutch cable may be slightly in the way of the throttle cables (not sure yet, still trying to figure that out)... It's all a bit close the the trans tunnel but it should be about the .5" in factory five recommends.

    Now the damn accelerator pedal, e-brake cable and final electrical. Then I should be ready for my first start!

    DSC06715.jpg
    DSC06716.jpg
    DSC06720.jpg
    DSC06722.jpg
    DSC06727.jpg

  12. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Prairieville, Louisiana
    Posts
    587
    Post Thanks / Like
    You clicking right on along!
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  13. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    North of sacramento Ca.
    Posts
    661
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice and neat, looks like good work!

  14. #13
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like

    First start! And a cruise

    First start today! Fired right up. Ran it at 2500 RPM for 15 minutes then set the timing. Aside for needing to tighten a couple connections, everything appears good. Bought the shortblock for coast high performance but built the entire rest of the engine. First engine for me. Felt good.

    Got a little more ballsy and took it down the street. Lost a taillight as it was just lightly clamped on the back. Guess that's not bad of a casualty. The front brake pistons ended up not retracting so I never got it out of first gear and I had significant braking resistance the entire ride. Not sure what's going on. Some of the guys though the master cylinder might be sticking. Slightly bled the front brake and backed it back into the garage. Put it up on jack stands. Brakes didn't stick anymore. Not sure what's going on here. Thoughts? I have Whitby Power brakes....

    DSC06834.jpg
    DSC06846.jpg
    DSC06874.jpg
    DSC06879.jpg
    DSC06888.jpg
    DSC06891.jpg
    DSC06894.jpg

  15. Likes wrp, peterh226, FF33rod liked this post
  16. #14
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    29
    Post Thanks / Like
    I will be following to see your conclusion on the front brakes sticking. I too have the Whitby brakes and the front stuck when I took it out. Still haven't found out why. But I have not taken it out again since. I was reading about maybe having to adjust the small screw plunger on the inside. Will let you know though for sure if I find the solution. Might try to get out and look at it this week. Been busy. 2 yr old boy will zap your wrench time lol

  17. #15
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by JEMAN View Post
    I will be following to see your conclusion on the front brakes sticking. I too have the Whitby brakes and the front stuck when I took it out. Still haven't found out why. But I have not taken it out again since. I was reading about maybe having to adjust the small screw plunger on the inside. Will let you know though for sure if I find the solution. Might try to get out and look at it this week. Been busy. 2 yr old boy will zap your wrench time lol
    Definitely will post the resolution to the brake issue. I have a boy coming in June so I'm trying to get as much done before that as possible. Big goal was this first start milestone to at least get the engine lubed up!

  18. #16
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    Some more trouble shooting today. Seems it was not just my front brakes locking up, my rears as well. I took the master cylinder off and definitely discovered that the pushrod was too long. I adjusted the pushrod all the way in (which seemed to just barely seem okay) and then rebled the brakes. Seemed to work, MOSTLY. After driving it around the block a couple times, with really hard braking, the rears seemed to stick a little bit (and made some noise). I backed it back into my garage and turned off the engine. Tried pushing it back and forth and it seemed fine. I think I may slot some washers and move out he master cylinder just a little bit further and see what that does. I imagine it'll make them too squishy but there could still be some restriction on that pushrod.

    Found other problems too. My car comes close to stalling on aggressive braking. A quick google seems that it's almost 100% carb related. My fuel tank is really low on fuel to but I don't think it'd cause the RPM to drop down so significantly that fast. It takes a while to drain those bowls.

    And i seem to have a small oil leak between the intake manifold and the block at the rear of my car. I must not have put enough RTV. Those with 302 engines probably know where I'm talking about.

    But progress was made, if only incremental!

    20190316_094121.jpg
    Last edited by fostia; 03-16-2019 at 04:59 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor