First source for dual hoop roll bars fell through. Second source came through. Worked out for the best as these cost 1/4 what I was going to pay for the first set even though they are a slightly smaller diameter. Mocked it up a bit. Going to add a bunch of more bracing into the section that that bars slip into. Again, I know these give a false sense of security without the 3rd leg but at minimum I can attach a head rest to the back in case I get rear ended.
Also cut out and bonded the driver side door handle in. Still need to bond in the cable pull end.
Oh yeah, I finally sucked it up and ordered a Boyd tank. I couldn't quite pull the trigger earlier as I was hemorrhaging money on the engine and fuel system. I'm still hemorrhaging money, just not as bad. And my FFR tank was leaking somewhere at the top. So that provided the excuse. Someone put it nicely in another thread. Kit car logic: Spend $400 when a 25 cent seal could probably solve the problem. Really, it costs more than $400 as I also bought the $65 0-90 ohm fuel gauge that's needed with it too. And also looking into a new $40 fill tube. And we'll see if my braided lines are long enough to reach the new pick up and return. Never ending. But I think it's worth it since now I can get to the tank without pulling the body off. Either way, it's done.
Took everything off the car today and removed the body. I was hoping to wait a while to do this but I needed to pull the old tank so I could put in the Boyd tank to ensure everything fit. I tried to hold out as long as I could but finally bit the bullet with the Boyd. I agree with everyone else that this is the tank that SHOULD come with the kit. Just the fact that you can remove it from the front is going to be a tremendous help. And the welded in bungs are just fantastic. I don't foresee any leaks from this unlike the FF5 tank. Hopefully I'll smell less gas now.
The only bummer so far is that the trim on the new fuel gauge that I bought is more shiny than the other gauge trim. It's going to bug the crap out of me. Oh well, another thing on the phase II list.
I'll try to take a pic the next time I put it in. Clearance is not bad. I put two 90 degree AN6 fittings in the bungs and needed to cut away a bit of the body flange to get it in and out. But thats hidden behind the waterfall so no biggy.
Performing surgery on the waterfall. It never fit quite right and my roll bar base just made it worse. Still a bunch of fiberglassing and sanding to do. Not quite sure how to get where it hugs the top of body between the door finished to my liking. Going to require some thought.... This is my first foray into fiberglass layups so we will see how it ends up.
With regards to "where it hugs the top of body between the door", might I suggest trimming it back flush with the door hinge pillar. That's what we did and it actually turned out really nice. I do wish I would have carried the rocker guard when I sprayed it onto the pillar, but I may actually extend it this winter. It also trims out nice, especially with any kind of vinyl covering. Just a suggestion.
As of this minute, I was supposed to be on a flight to Oslo Norway for a 2 and a half week Norwegian extravaganza. Stupid covid.
Anyways, thanks for the suggestions on the waterfall but I'm too stubborn to quit. I prefer subjecting myself to the ancient form of torture called fiberglass work. I don't know how guys like Jeff Miller do this over and over again. I think after this, I'm one and out on this. Not to mention San Diego has been an oven the past week and a half. Ugh.
Finally. Roll bar hoops installed in waterfall. 4 weeks later than I thought. After I welded up the holder I though I would just install the waterfall, cut the holes and be done. But the cross bars I welded in were too far forward. My waterfall always fit like crap so once the rollbars didn't fit I took the opportunity to start hacking up the waterfall so everything fit just right without forcing it into place and large gaps. i'm quite pleased with the end result.
You weren't able to use the FFR rollbar mount tube? I assume that it would have the wrong location for the dual bars?
Thnx
Robert
Yup, the single roll bar support tubes are too far apart - using them would pull the dual roll hoops several inches off center relative to the seat backs. Look at fostia's #3 photo in the post above and you can see the problem. HTH, Keith HR #894 (also installing dual roll hoops, but not that far along)
What is the distance between the frame where the tank sits in between?
Thanks
Robert
I didn't forget about you. Here's a bunch of pictures of the Boyd tank and clearances. If you need specific dimensions I can do it sometime in the future. I wasn't quite sure what dimension you were referring to.
I didn't forget about you. Here's a bunch of pictures of the Boyd tank and clearances. If you need specific dimensions I can do it sometime in the future. I wasn't quite sure what dimension you were referring to.
Thanks! I would like to know how high and wide the available space is for a gas tank. I am thinking of using a Mooneys round tank, but wonder if there is enough space to put one in... Idea is to have it on disppay from the back of the 33 when the boot is open.
But from your picture I can calculate that the tank is 9.5" high + a bit of space for the valves etc. Thanks! Boyd website showed the tank as 40x9.5x10 but did not say what the height was.
Thanks! I would like to know how high and wide the available space is for a gas tank. I am thinking of using a Mooneys round tank, but wonder if there is enough space to put one in... Idea is to have it on disppay from the back of the 33 when the boot is open.
But from your picture I can calculate that the tank is 9.5" high + a bit of space for the valves etc. Thanks! Boyd website showed the tank as 40x9.5x10 but did not say what the height was.
Thanks for your help
Robert
The Boyd tank is 40" long x 9.5" wide by 10" high, tank for my 33 measures 4.250" long by 9.625" wide and 10.125" high.
Bob
Bonding in the Kootenai Valley Customs trunk bars. Hoping hoping that this will make the trunk form in correctly. Also, finally found a use for my weights. I certainly haven't been using them.
Happy to see the last pic where you set the trunk on to the body. As I believe Tim mentions in his instructions, the curvature of the bars (or the bonding of them tot he trunk) may need adjusting since every body seems a little different.
This, along with his reinforcing bar on the body just below the trunk latch, are the two biggest improvements one can make to the build IMO. Really stiffens things up. Oh, plus the "trunk deck panel adjuster"...
Steve
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
So I think I know what I'm going to do with the trunk. I did a janky HD mockup and it seems to work. I've ordered some proper heim joints and black linkage. It will still look a bit rough but i'll take it to be able to adjust the bend. Need to install the real bulb seal but apparently I didn't get it with my kit. I received two firewall seals instead and didn't measure out the 12 feet of side bulb seal. Either that or I hid it on myself. Due to covid, can only e-mail FF5 so haven't heard back.
So I think I know what I'm going to do with the trunk. I did a janky HD mockup and it seems to work. I've ordered some proper heim joints and black linkage. It will still look a bit rough but i'll take it to be able to adjust the bend. Need to install the real bulb seal but apparently I didn't get it with my kit. I received two firewall seals instead and didn't measure out the 12 feet of side bulb seal. Either that or I hid it on myself. Due to covid, can only e-mail FF5 so haven't heard back.
So is that tension bar going to be there permanently then?
this would be a useful tool to get the shape right and than glass in the re-informents on the side I suppose?
Robert
Not sure. I was thinking like you about just using it to get position and then reglassing the x brace but I'm also over the trunk. The tension bar components I bought shouldn't look bad so maybe permanent? Jury is out right now.
Not sure. I was thinking like you about just using it to get position and then reglassing the x brace but I'm also over the trunk. The tension bar components I bought shouldn't look bad so maybe permanent? Jury is out right now.
going to be hot by you this long weekend, you could try taking it off the car with the rods still on it and set it in the Sun to see if the glass relearns it's position. Long shot, but one never knows.
Not sure. I was thinking like you about just using it to get position and then reglassing the x brace but I'm also over the trunk. The tension bar components I bought shouldn't look bad so maybe permanent? Jury is out right now.
Maybe nicely chromed or powdercoated in line with the "theme" of the car it might work as a permanent fixture too... kinda "steam punk?"
I think I dislike the trunk more than the doors. I got my trunk adjusters installed with the heim joints and the real deal holyfield trunk seal. I think the adjusters are going to work but with the real deal seal installed, the bottom doesn't shut all the way like it did with the spacers. I believe I'm going to need to cut back the bottom body lip to prevent the seal from being wedged. I don't think i ever cut it back to the manual dimensions. Will have to wait until tomorrow (or later cause football starts tomorrow!). I couldn't do it tonight as I was past my "loud noise making hours" as set by my wife. I learned my lesson a while back when I woke our kid to be selective when I do. The waterfall is coming along nicely as well. After surgery it fits much much better. I'm pretty over the bodywork phase but still have a long ways to go but I think I'm almost through the difficult stuff.
... I couldn't do it tonight as I was past my "loud noise making hours" as set by my wife. I learned my lesson a while back when I woke our kid....
Been there, made that mistake myself...
I make the argument "the kids gotta learn how to sleep through it, or he'll never sleep..." Needless to say, she didn't agree with me. When we built our house I was adamant about having a detached garage with shop space. That probably saved our marriage, and I can work at will while the kids sleep. Granted, they still wake at a pin drop, but not every time I drop a wrench or crank up the grinder.
Married 11 years with two kids, and I've learned "Happy Wife = Happy Life".
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
Finally sprayed all the miscellaneous components with epoxy primer. For all the hours i spent on body work it looks meh. Thankfully its just primer and can be fixed later. Plan is just run it in primer (southern poly is UV resistant) then when i have the $, maybe get a professional paintjob someday.... someday. Or maybe give it a shot myself although i think my neighbors would not be too stoked on the fumes.
Pinholes and unevenness everywhere. I think where i could improve is:
1.) Use a finer grit paper. I was using 80 per the epoxy instructions but could prob should have used 120.
2.) Use glazing putty after the rage gold.
3.) Use some guide coat when sanding
4.) Work on spray technique. I put it on too heavy/stopped too early in some areas resulting in what i think are little divet bubble things... at least that what i think thats from. This is just prumer but i assume this problem would carry over to real paint...
I have yet to finish the body but am going to try these things.
Well, at least you tried. Primer is easy to sand out the imperfections as it looks like at least one location it went on a little heavy and those pin holes will easily fill with some putty. The divets look like there was some impurity on the surface and will require sanding out, thoroughly cleaned and resprayed. I'm not an expert here by any means but have experienced all those issues and more. I give you a definite thumbs up for attempting and don't give up!
Been working pretty much non-stop every night when the kid goes to bed. Wife probably wonders if she has a husband. Moved the body to my harbor freight body shop booth and bonded in some fender washers where the studs for the windshield and roof go into. Reshaped my power steering controller bracket so I could better get my hands through the engine access panels. Added an accessory fuse panel and cleaned up a ton of wiring. Added a hidden fuel pump shutoff switch. Hooked up the fuel lines and added clickstuds to the fuel tank to attach the lines. Added a line locker to the front brake line since it was leaking. Added a carb fuel vent extension to hopefully help with my car wanting to stall under really heavy braking. Been busy.
After months of bodywork I've emerged with a car.......looking a little better. It really needs a coat of high build primer and further work but I'm over it for now. Going to run it for a couple years in primer before I have money for a real deal professional paint job. Even if I wanted to do it myself I don't think my suburban neighborhood would appreciate the fumes. That being said, I only have a couple gremlins left to tackle on the rebuild. I need to get the damn trunk latch/popper working. I might just ditch the whole factory five setup and weld up my own version as the angles just don't work right. I need to fix the fitment of the hardtop studs and fix a leak in my line locker. After that hopefully I'm in business for a while. Crossing my fingers that I don't get a fuel leak with all my connections to the boyd tank. I drove it a tiny bit in go-cart mode again and all seemed well. Don't need to be a fireball driving down the street.
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Originally Posted by j33ptj
