Question regarding installing lower control arm Mk4.
As per manual, page 34, it says the lower control arms are using the outer set of holes on the chassis.
There are a set of holes on the inside also. What is the reason for using the outer holes?
Is it possible to use the inner holes, and if, will I run into any kind of problems?
Inner holes are intended for use with post-Fox Mustang Donor control arms. That said, the tubular Fox width lowers can be moved to the inboard position but a some factors come into play depending upon what the rest of the front suspension is made up of as far as spindles and UCA mounting position. Mark Reynolds With Breeze automotive did a bunch of research and experimenting with different combinations and determined that implementing the inner mounting holes with Fox width tubular lower arms needed to use the SAI mod spindle adapter and an alternative UCA mount position to get bump steer to a reasonable level. I guess the question for you is what would you be trying to accomplish by using the inner set of holes?
The reason I ask is that where I live, I have problems with the authority, as the wheels are too far out of the front fenders.
So, I am looking into if I can move the lower control arm into the inner holes in the chassis, to get the front wheels covered by the fenders.
A stock -05 Mustang wheel, with 45 mm ET is perfect for this job, but I can not find this 8 inch wheel in the Halibrand style anywhere.
The wheels are FFR Halibrand replicas, 9x17 front. Tires, Toyo 245/35-17. Spindles are, if I remember right, Mustang. The kit is from 2017, all parts new.
The wheels are FFR Halibrand replicas, 9x17 front. Tires, Toyo 245/35-17. Spindles are, if I remember right, Mustang. The kit is from 2017, all parts new.
Different year Mustang spindles set the wheel and tire out further than others. Specifically what year are they? If you're not sure post a photo or 2 so we can identify them. With the FFR wheels and proper spindles there should not be an issue with getting 245/45-17 tires under the body.
Indeed those are the Factory Five spindles as Craig said. There are thousands of roadsters using the same spindle/wheel/tire combination with the tires tucked nicely under the front fenders so if yours are sticking out I'm not sure what your problem is. Can you give us some more photos? Also what is your camber set to?
It looks like the camber is "positive" (out at the top) and should be "negative" (in at the top). The spec is -.5 to -.75 I would suggest starting there and see where you end up. I think it will take care of your problem.
CVOBill
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Although it may only be because of the photo angles but I agree with Bill that it does look like positive rather than negative camber. I also like to see .5 to .75 negative for a street car. Ride height appears a bit high too but that's not going to have much effect on wheel placement once camber is set.
Totally unrelated to the topic but what's the story with the unusual parking/turn indicator lamps? Are you outside the US?
This is why we make 8 inch front wheels for this reason. All of the 9 inch from FFR are at the outer limit of the set up. The difference is a 245 vs 255 tires. Less than 0.5 inches of rubber. A lot better fit and less beating up the front of the rear fender. JMHO. Richard.
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I agree the wheels stick out of the fenders too far on the roadster.
On the Mk4 it is an even bigger issue due to the shape of the wheelwell being especially close to the tire.
Here is the Breeze Youtube video discussing mounting the standard length FFR lower control arm in the inboard mounting hole. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNy7XHjtu4w
To maintain the upper arm length you would also mount the upper arm on the inside of the upper control arm mounting plate.
I used 1994 - 1995 Mustang spindles with the SAI modification from Whitby. I believe the geometry of this combo is very close to the geometry of your FFR spindle. Also if you got the FFR rack with your complete kit you would need to remove the inner tie rod ends, remove the rack extenders and reinstall the inner tie rod ends on the rack.
It's absolutely worth it for looks and performane - no bumpsteer.
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Both your quoted camber number and the pictures seem to indicate that you have positive camber. So checking that and fixing if needed is step #1. OTOH, have you driven the car yet? I think you might be OK even as it is. The MkIV body is tight on the front tires but can be helped. That inward turning flange at the edge of the flaired fender needs to go. Some people will leave just a little of it so the outer most edge is maybe double the thickness of the rest of it. This is just a 1/16 inch extra right at the edge. It is obvious to check for clearance at the top center of the flare/tire but also turn the steering a little and check how close the tire comes to the front of the fender right at the vertical center of the tire.
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Craig!
Yes, have been testing it, it drives well, turns well also. I have already shaved the inward turning flange.
But as you say, I need to get the right camber, for sure! Can a different hub help me? Thank you!
I don't 'think' there is a different hub available. I don't figure you will need it but don't be afraid of a little extra negative camber. I run a lot of autocrosses so I run -3.2 camber in the front. Yeah, it wears the front street tires out faster on the inside but it's no big deal. We don't put 15k miles on these cars in a year so even wearing the inside out still gives me at least 3 years life.
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New MK4 kit ordered, promised date 04/13/24
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MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
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No I haven't but they look great in the pics!! And he's a supporting vendor
Higgy
New MK4 kit ordered, promised date 04/13/24
MK4 #10616 picked up 4/10/23!!!
302w, 4 link, 17's, dual roll bar SOLD
MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars SOLD
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