Boig Motorsports

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: headlight / parking light help

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    112
    Post Thanks / Like

    headlight / parking light help

    I spent way too long today trying to get this working, help please!
    Turn signals run fine no issues
    parking lights can't get working, subaru has only 2 wires on schematic, but the new ones (3 small lights) each has 3 wires, but everything I try does not light up. If I take the wires (ground and power) that are supposed to be the lights that turn on with the first turn of the headlight switch (parking, running lights) and connect to the 2 wire turn signal it lights up, but nothing I try gets any of the 3 parking lights to turn on. Anybody have advice, pictures?
    Next up trying to wire the headlights to work on a 2003 WRX wagon harness. I am working on adding a relay in to make the
    non DRL work. When you turn on headlights (on low) they work, but when hight beam is on to power the shutter, lights turn off, even with help from some on the forum, I can't get the relay to work to make the headlights stay on when high beams are turned on. Hope this makes sense, super frustrated.

  2. #2

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    I added info you asked for long ago about headlight relays managing the low & high modes for the single lamp in the new style. Hope it helps, but way late for sure.

    And, dogonnit, it's probably different from what you already wired, and considering your wiring isn't working, I wouldn't be surprised.

    About the parking lights, they are LED and so polarity sensitive. Maybe all you need to do is switch leads for that problem. Some LEDs will be burned out when wired backwards, but not always, and I don't know about specifically these. Verify they work with a battery or other 12V supply, not connected to anything in the car. And work out the polarity doing that as well, then wire appropriately.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...274#post350274
    Last edited by aquillen; 12-17-2018 at 11:06 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    112
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the help, but electrical is not my forte and as much as I look at the schematics I am not getting any closer to figuring this out. I have tried a few combinations to get the relay to work, but it is hard to put into words that others reading understand
    1. when wiring the relay to work properly I need to turn on the low beams without the relay doing anything, but then when High beams are turned on I need to use the relay to send power to the shutter and headlight. But if you tie into the low beam it sends power to the relay and keeps the lights on permanently. I am more visually inclined and something on the lines of how to wire the relay with more simple terminology, such as the "high beam wire need to go to post 87 of the relay" Hope this makes sense?

  4. #4

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    My brother only understands electricity when it shocks him, so I understand...

    My wiring, again, is probably a bit different than the usual 818 project. My donor parts from scattered junk yards and ebay. So I never had a DRL module. Using the two drawings I posted on the other thread, just referring to them as W0 and W2 (wiring diagram 0 and 2), from the longer names at the bottom right.

    If you have other wiring different and mix it with mine, I can't vouch for problems that I can't forsee...
    And I have to disclaim - I've not wired this up in my car yet. I've been over it too many times though and I expect it to work. I've been tricked by circuitry over the years, but not often.

    Follow these paths -

    On W2 drawing, Connector [B71] wired to ground at pin 16 (usually black).
    When driver sets [LIGHTING SWITCH] to only position II switch connects ground to Connector B71-13 (usually green)
    The B71-13 ground exits drawing at [W2-E] (simply a drawing label to tie other drawings to this one).
    [W2-E] connects to drawing [W0-A]

    Bottom right of [W0-A] ground from the switch above goes to the coils of the two headlight relays.
    The other side of the relays are tied to 12V ignition switch wires (so in my car the lights won't come on without ign on), via [W0-D] which
    goes over to another of my drawings where I show 12V at an ignition switch wire.

    So from the above, with 12V available (ign on), the [Lighting Switch] turns on the headlight relays, and they provide 12V power through fuses
    #8 and #9 back out of [W0-B] and [W0-C]. I have to guess Subaru used two relays to split the power handling for some redundant safety.

    The [W0-B] & [W0-C] connect back the the drawing [W2-A] & [W2-B] (at the top left of W2) and so to the headlight bulbs. The other end of the bulbs are grounded, so the lamps come on. The new style headlights only have a single filament H9 type bulb, so low and high beam are really a single shared filament per left or right headlight unit.

    At this point the lights are on, no matter low or high beam desired by the driver.

    Note that the 12V to the light bulbs also are connected to the shutter motors. So if the lights are on, the shutter motors are ready to be powered,
    but READY is the key word.

    In low beam, the shutters are not powered on, so they cut the beam down such that the upper half of the light pattern is blocked.

    Look again at [W2] drawing, connector B71 also ties the same ground coming in at [B71-16] to the [DIMMER & PASSING SWITCH]. This switch
    does not connect the ground out to anything in low beam (?!!!) but hey, we already powered the lamps on with the above, and established
    that we have the lamps on, and low beam due to the shutter being turned off.

    The [DIMMER & PASSING SWITCH] will however, connect the ground through and out [B71-7] if the driver selects high-beam. Remembering that
    the lamps are already on via the [LIGHTING SWITCH] path, now we just want to power the shutter to open the lamp beam pattern to full size =
    high beams. So connector [B71-7] ground goes out to each shutter motor at [pin-1] and since the motors have 12V on [pin-2], they energize
    and 'tada' high beam.

    What about flashing on coming traffic with the [Lighting Switch] off?

    The lights are off in this condition, since the switches are initially off or in their non-operated positions so to speak.
    Driver pulls the [DIMMER & PASSING SWITCH] to the HF (headlight flash) position.

    The ground available at the switch from [B71-16] is passed out from the HF contact on to [B71-8] (typically blue-black) and
    goes out of the drawing at [W2-E] again to [W0-A]. We know that energizes the relays like before, and so the beams come on = flash.
    Last edited by aquillen; 12-18-2018 at 06:08 PM.

  5. #5

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    PM me if you want to talk by phone...

  6. #6

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like

    The easy way

    After reviewing comments, but never found a drawing or point to point instructions, I think this is what others are doing to add a relay to solve the low beam works, high beam no lights problem. For my project I took a different path. But this is what I think you are looking for to simply add a relay and otherwise wire in the new style Hella lamps.



    The left side is the original of a 2003 Legacy - I have wiring for that but not WRX. Probably the same or very close.

    What is being done here: A relay coil is connected in parallel "across" the shutter motor. The motor is on (gets 12 V) when high beam is on. So the relay turns on with High beam on. The relay supplies ground to the lamp bulb then so the bulb is on with high beam on.

    The new lamp wires in:

    (1) One side of shutter and one side of lamp bulb connect together and to a headlight fuse wire. This puts 12V into both parts.

    (2) The other side of the shutter connects to what was the original high beam wire. This is grounded by the lighting switches to activate high beam lamp. Now it will activate the shutter motor to fully open the projector beam.

    (3) The other side of the lamp connects to what was the original low beam wire. This is grounded by the lighting switches to activate low beam lamp. Does the same thing here.

    ---

    (4) Add a standard automotive 12V relay.

    (a) Connect 85 and 87 on the relay to the shutter wire that now connects to the original high beam wire.

    (b) Connect 86 on the relay to the other shutter wire. Now relay coil (85 and 86) will energize the relay whenever the shutter is on (high beam demanded)

    (c) Connect 30 on the relay to the same side of the lamp that was the original low beam.
    Last edited by aquillen; 12-18-2018 at 10:55 PM.

  7. #7

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    And you wrote - "subaru has only 2 wires on schematic, but the new ones (3 small lights) each has 3 wires"

    My kit came with the 3 small lights only have 2 wires each. 3 wires show up where people obtained the white/yellow dual color cat-eye LED's, but I didn't hear of FFR shipping those.

    If you have 3 wire, then one wire is common and the other two are connected one or the other to get different color. You just have to figure out the common and whether it goes to + or - leaving the other two to connect to the opposing voltage. You can test these safely by just using a 9V radio battery.

  8. #8

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    If anyone grabbed the drawing above prior to this clock time, I swapped the relay pins. Some Bosch and other relays have an internal diode across the coil and are polarity sensitive. I revised the drawing to correct for that possible relay type. The drawing is corrected now.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    112
    Post Thanks / Like
    Art,

    Thank you so much, you put a lot of effort into this. It is what I was looking for, I will work on this tomorrow, wish me luck.

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    For the Subaru 2002 harness the head lights will work without the daylight running module.if you connect it like this R to shutter LW to shutter and light bulb. other lead of light bulb to ground. for the left side its RL instead of LW. The less wit the tree leads only light up if you apply 12 v to them. Black its common. Withe and Yellow wire both are white led.

  11. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    1
    Post Thanks / Like

    parking lights possibility

    Quote Originally Posted by Chef818 View Post
    I spent way too long today trying to get this working, help please!
    Turn signals run fine no issues
    parking lights can't get working, subaru has only 2 wires on schematic, but the new ones (3 small lights) each has 3 wires, but everything I try does not light up. If I take the wires (ground and power) that are supposed to be the lights that turn on with the first turn of the headlight switch (parking, running lights) and connect to the 2 wire turn signal it lights up, but nothing I try gets any of the 3 parking lights to turn on. Anybody have advice, pictures?
    Next up trying to wire the headlights to work on a 2003 WRX wagon harness. I am working on adding a relay in to make the
    non DRL work. When you turn on headlights (on low) they work, but when hight beam is on to power the shutter, lights turn off, even with help from some on the forum, I can't get the relay to work to make the headlights stay on when high beams are turned on. Hope this makes sense, super frustrated.
    If your doner is like mine the parking lights will not come on unless the engine is running and the parking brake is fully released, which means the switch needs to be wired or that wire (pink on mine) is grounded

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor