E-brake clevis binds on frame

[Al_C]

Here's another little task that I've been putting off: finishing up the e-brake. Well, this is the last thing standing between me and getting all the cockpit aluminum in place so I guess I better get it done soon.

I have the Lokar clevis and I installed a pulley on the frame to route the cables from the brakes themselves. The issue is that since the cables are not running under the 4" tube (that was the whole point), the angle going into the e-brake handle is wrong. The clevis binds on the handle frame and puts stress on the cables where they enter the clevis block. Here are a couple of photos:


the unattached clevis in position


The forward mount point for the e-brake handle

I poked around looking for something here (i.e. the forum), but alas, Google let me down on that one. So I asked Martin (aka Broku518). He had the same problem, but he doesn't use the e-brake so he didn't do anything about it. (whatever - ask him yourself!) I bet others have experienced this little problem and dealt with it successfully.

I have come up with two solutions - one that sounds like a lot of work; the other, may not work at all. I believe that if I make new angle pieces for the e-brake handle, extending the lower part another .75 - 1 inch lower, the angle will improve enough to work. That means I'd need to fabricate new pieces. Not that difficult, just a lot of cutting and filing. The second solution is to lower the front mount point with a longer bolt and spacers. Except I don't think there is enough clearance on the e-brake handle frame.

Finally, we're getting to the meat of the matter: did you experience this issue and how did you fix it? Thanks in advance!

[Fixit]

I didn't use the Lokar clamp, I swedged new ends on my cables... here's a link to my install
and a few pics of other installs that used the Lokar end.
IMG_3813_zpsgrquqogr.jpg On chassis.JPG

[edwardb]

I won't re-post pictures. One of the one's John posted is from my build. Plus he links to how he did his. If you modify the Lokar clevis like shown in the picture, plus reduce how far you have it locked onto the threaded rod, the clevis will be up and under the bracket and not hang up. Yes, it still touch the head of the carriage bolt, but I haven't found that to be a problem. I think it's an easy fix. Making all new pieces that extend the pivot point down is another option I considered. But with the Wilwood brakes on mine, they only need a couple clicks on the e-brake as it is. That would have made it less plus increased the effort. Both probably workable, but I didn't find it necessary. Use my e-brake all the time and the build has been on the road for two seasons. Still works perfectly.

[hugo-k]

Hi.

The emergency brake is, IMO, a nightmare. A very bad way to route the cables, the position of handle is not good.
I found this video on You Tube. Have a look at this, it can give you some new ideas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6EtCH5oUCM

[CraigS]

Easy fix-run the cables under the frame tube. Yeah, it looks like there could be a better solution but it actually works fine.

[RJD]

I made an extension to the throw arm which kept the clevis clear.
7E1CDC29-60A7-4989-8376-3D41D589ABA8.jpeg

[hugo-k]

With a longer arm, will it work? I found out you needed much more force on the arm, and it was problem to get the wheels to stop/hold.

[RJD]

With a longer arm, will it work? I found out you needed much more force on the arm, and it was problem to get the wheels to stop/hold.

I didn't note any difference in pull force before and after the extension. The extension isn't very long - it only moves the clevis attach point down about an inch and a half. As it is now, three clicks on the brake handle and my wheels are locked, though I may fine tune this later to have a little more slack.

[GFX2043mtu]

I made a aluminum rub plate that bolts on the bottom of the parking brake and uses the carriage bolt to hold it in place. And the cables and clevis rubs on it and it works great.

[cgundermann]

Different ebrake, but to deal with rubbing on the frame - I purchased Teflon stock from McMaster-Carr and affixed a plate of it to the frame to prevent abrasion. Super slippery and no wear.

Chris

[Al_C]

I made an extension to the throw arm which kept the clevis clear.
7E1CDC29-60A7-4989-8376-3D41D589ABA8.jpeg

There are a number of good ideas here! RJD - on your extension - is your second mount point for the extension on the outside of the throw arm at the fulcrum point?

[RJD]

There are a number of good ideas here! RJD - on your extension - is your second mount point for the extension on the outside of the throw arm at the fulcrum point?

That's it. Here is a picture of my first attempt at making an extension. I ultimately went with something similar - the final version used a lower profile locking nut on the fulcrum from McMaster-Carr so more threads protruded. The extension was a piece of bar steel from Home Depot 3/4in X 3/16in X 36in. Grinding it thinner at the fulcrum area and using the low profile locking nut allowed me to use the ff5 hardware at the fulcrum point.

64AB2216-15BB-47BE-A9EC-6C08B3709376.jpeg
80CD03CD-BBC4-4A69-9C74-9D6C579A16C8.png

[Al_C]

That's it. Here is a picture of my first attempt at making an extension. I ultimately went with something similar - the final version used a lower profile locking nut on the fulcrum from McMaster-Carr so more threads protruded. The extension was a piece of bar steel from Home Depot 3/4in X 3/16in X 36in. Grinding it thinner at the fulcrum area and using the low profile locking nut allowed me to use the ff5 hardware at the fulcrum point.

64AB2216-15BB-47BE-A9EC-6C08B3709376.jpeg
80CD03CD-BBC4-4A69-9C74-9D6C579A16C8.png

Looks good! Thanks!