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Thread: VAHokie's Roadster Build Thread - Disassembly & Body Damage Questions

  1. #41
    Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnK View Post
    Thanks for the build thread. This is all great information! I'm a few weeks behind you. My kit had a 12/22 complete date, so as Sally says, my "baby is in the nursery" waiting for Stewart to pick it up. Per my last discussion with Stewart, it should be picked up late this week or early next week and then it will start its long journey to the west coast. I'll be keeping tabs on your progress. Good luck!
    Glad this info helps! If you haven't already, ask Sally to send a nursery pic to add to your photo library. There's something about seeing your name, on your car that makes it feel real - at least it did for me.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by VAHokie View Post
    Glad this info helps! If you haven't already, ask Sally to send a nursery pic to add to your photo library. There's something about seeing your name, on your car that makes it feel real - at least it did for me.
    Already done!

    IMG_1632.JPG

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  4. #43
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    I continue to work through inventory, averaging 1-2 hours a night. My hope is to be done by the end of the weekend, which will be a week after delivery and consistent with what others have shared it took them to complete it. I'll be able to start the actual build, or should I say tear down process? I tackled the Fuel Tank and eBrake boxes last night (as well as a few others) and wanted to run a few things by the group:

    I believe these are the 3/8-5/16" and 1/4" fuel line connectors, but would like to confirm. It's not entirely clear in the instructions where these go, but in reviewing the pics in the manual it appears they attach to either end of the fuel filter - does that sound right?


    I also have two hoses, one is clearly the nylon fuel line that connects the filter with the tank (Part Name: Tank to Filter Fuel Line Assembly), and the other is Part Name: 1/4" ID, High Pressure Flexible Fuel Line. Can someone confirm where this goes?


    In the eBrake parts, I had two leftover items that weren't on the actual parts list: a wing nut and washer. Did anyone else receive these?
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  5. #44
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    Hi Tony, I just thought that when you get your engine and trans you will need to dial indicate your bell housing. It is very easy to do with the proper tools. When I got my eng/trans from Mike Forte I confirmed with him he doesn't do this. There are several videos on youtube, check out american powertrain for their video. As they say if you don't do this step and you have trans bearing problems down the road your trans is not covered under tremec's warranty. I have the dial gauge to do it with or you may be able to get one on loan from an auto parts store. I bought mine and a magnetic base from Harbor Freight for cheap money.
    Good progress on your inventory.
    Jerry
    MK4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, high back kirkey seats, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18

  6. #45
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Hey Tony,

    Regarding the fuel system parts, where they go (and if you'll even use them) will be dictated by your engine choices (EFI vs carb; internal electric vs external electric vs mechanical fuel pump, etc.). I didn't use the nylon fuel line because it was too short to get from the tank to my fuel filter location. I did use the quick connects and the provided rubber hose for my EFI system. In other words, you'll soon have a "Parts Not Used" box, and have to make up the rest as you go.

    Regarding the wing nut & fender washer, I don't recall seeing those. But make a note where they're located so if you come up short somewhere you don't have to make a trip to Fastenal.


    John

    NOTE: If you go with an EFI system, make sure whatever fuel filter you use meets the EFI specification. An EFI system expecting 10u filtration won't last long if all you've got is a 15u filter.
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 01-11-2019 at 05:35 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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  8. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrcuz View Post
    Hi Tony, I just thought that when you get your engine and trans you will need to dial indicate your bell housing. It is very easy to do with the proper tools. When I got my eng/trans from Mike Forte I confirmed with him he doesn't do this. There are several videos on youtube, check out american powertrain for their video. As they say if you don't do this step and you have trans bearing problems down the road your trans is not covered under tremec's warranty. I have the dial gauge to do it with or you may be able to get one on loan from an auto parts store. I bought mine and a magnetic base from Harbor Freight for cheap money.
    Good progress on your inventory.
    Jerry
    Hey, Jerry. I appreciate the reminder on this. I recall you mentioning that during my visit to see your build and actually have it noted in my discussion notes. Still a bit out from this step, but I'll be sure to connect when the time comes.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  9. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Hey Tony,

    Regarding the fuel system parts, where they go (and if you'll even use them) will be dictated by your engine choices (EFI vs carb; internal electric vs external electric vs mechanical fuel pump, etc.). I didn't use the nylon fuel line because it was too short to get from the tank to my fuel filter location. I did use the quick connects and the provided rubber hose for my EFI system. In other words, you'll soon have a "Parts Not Used" box, and have to make up the rest as you go.

    Regarding the wing nut & fender washer, I don't recall seeing those. But make a note where they're located so if you come up short somewhere you don't have to make a trip to Fastenal.


    John

    NOTE: If you go with an EFI system, make sure whatever fuel filter you use meets the EFI specification. An EFI system expecting 10u filtration won't last long if all you've got is a 15u filter.
    Great info, John, and appreciate the heads-up on the fuel filter specification. I intend to go the carb route and will be sure to confirm that what I have will be sufficient or if I need to swap it out with something else.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  10. #48
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Also, when you find your fan, look up the current draw for whatever manufacturer / model you have. Mine was a Maradyne fan that only draws 12-15A. I replaced the 30A fuse in the Ron Francis fuse box with a 20A to better match the expected load. And if you replace the fan's spade connectors with Weatherpak, note that typically the latter are rated to 20A so you'll want a 20A fuse anyway.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

  11. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Also, when you find your fan, look up the current draw for whatever manufacturer / model you have. Mine was a Maradyne fan that only draws 12-15A. I replaced the 30A fuse in the Ron Francis fuse box with a 20A to better match the expected load. And if you replace the fan's spade connectors with Weatherpak, note that typically the latter are rated to 20A so you'll want a 20A fuse anyway.


    John
    Hey, John.

    Unpacked the radiator fan and it's a Faz Elektrik M162K-F. Upon googling it, it took me to the Maradyne website and it appears we probably have a similar fan, although mine draws 18a. What advantage does lowering the fuse rating from 30 to 20 to more closely align with the expected load? Wouldn't it be better to have a higher rated fuse to allow for a little wiggle room? Admittedly, the electrical components of the build are where I feel most deficient, so apologize for what may be a noob question.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  12. #50
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    One question for the group and a request for confirmation on two parts. Thanks in advance to all who can share some insight!

    First the question: In the Fuel Line components section, it states you should receive two brass barbed fittings, one 1/4" and the other 5/16". Located both (see below), but the one on the left isn't barbed, it's actually a clamp style fitting. Will this be an issue?


    Now for the parts confirmation: Can someone confirm these two parts are the LH/RH Pin Mount Plate, Front, 1/16" Steel?


    And can you someone confirm these are the 3/16" Steel Door Latch Spacers?
    Last edited by VAHokie; 01-13-2019 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Updated first pic to the correct one
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  13. #51
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    did all your parts come in the boxes they told you?? could not find some of mein and it looks like they had 5 open boxs and
    just threw stuff into whatever box had room
    I thought some stuff was missing and found it in other boxes hope to get a assistant to help inventory it
    I took a HF 30 in moving dolly and moved the frame to work site put wood on it and 2 8 in planks and it worked fine
    think building a truck is gonna be a real adventure

  14. #52
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    The fuse keeps the wire from melting and potentially causing a fire in the case of current overload. You do need some wiggle room; I believe 10-15% over the anticipated load is the rule of thumb.

    In my case, the Weatherpak connectors I used were rated to 20A (you can get higher rated Weatherpaks; you just have to look for them). If I'd left the 30A fuse in place, the actual fuse would have been the connector. Since swapping the spade connectors for Weatherpaks is a common upgrade, and you've got easy access to the fan now, it's an easy decision / change to make.


    John

    P.S. Yes, you've got door latch spacers. The other brackets must be for the hood pins; I had them left over since I used the gas struts. I don't see the picture of the fuel line fittings.
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 01-13-2019 at 09:00 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

  15. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    The fuse keeps the wire from melting and potentially causing a fire in the case of current overload. You do need some wiggle room; I believe 10-15% over the anticipated load is the rule of thumb.

    In my case, the Weatherpak connectors I used were rated to 20A (you can get higher rated Weatherpaks; you just have to look for them). If I'd left the 30A fuse in place, the actual fuse would have been the connector. Since swapping the spade connectors for Weatherpaks is a common upgrade, and you've got easy access to the fan now, it's an easy decision / change to make.


    John

    P.S. Yes, you've got door latch spacers. The other brackets must be for the hood pins; I had them left over since I used the gas struts. I don't see the picture of the fuel line fittings.
    Thanks, John. Updated the pic above to the fittings.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  16. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Houdini View Post
    did all your parts come in the boxes they told you?? could not find some of mein and it looks like they had 5 open boxs and
    just threw stuff into whatever box had room
    I thought some stuff was missing and found it in other boxes hope to get a assistant to help inventory it
    I took a HF 30 in moving dolly and moved the frame to work site put wood on it and 2 8 in planks and it worked fine
    think building a truck is gonna be a real adventure
    Sorry to hear about your experience with the inventory. I've actually had the opposite experience with almost every part being where they said it would be and most everything accounted for (very few things missing). I couldn't imagine having to go on a scavenger hunt for parts - it would have increased the inventory two fold.

    Congrats on being one of the early builders for the truck. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

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  18. #55
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    Fuel line fittings: The one with the bump is still considered a barb, just a different kind. Still takes a push-on hose.

    Pin mount plates, yes, for hood pins, if you choose to use them. Most dont on todays builds.

    Door Latch spacers. Yep.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  19. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    Fuel line fittings: The one with the bump is still considered a barb, just a different kind. Still takes a push-on hose.

    Pin mount plates, yes, for hood pins, if you choose to use them. Most dont on todays builds.

    Door Latch spacers. Yep.
    Thanks for confirming and good to know. Just saved me some $ not having them PC'd.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  20. #57
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    Completed the box inventory over the weekend and moved onto the mounted components this evening. Nice to be in the garage and actually working with tools on the disassembly vs. checking boxes on paper, although there was still some of that as the various trunk and door hinges were pulled off and accounted for. I did encounter some minor damage to the fiberglass for the hood and a door (see first three pics below). Interested to get those that are familiar with the bodywork process if these are non-issues and I should just move on, or include it in my missing/damaged parts note to FFR. Based on the part lines and other areas of the body I'm sure they're a non-issue, but I'd rather be sure (hopefully one of the Jeff's can chime in here!).

    I also had my first d'oh moment as I realized that the position of my frame on the chassis dolly places the cross braces connecting the 4" tubes right up against the rear trans mount holes. For those of you that have attended the build school, you'll recall that the trans mount is the first piece that they instruct you to put in as they claim it's easier now than later when the manual instructs you too. Not an issue, just need to adjust how the frame is resting on the dolly, but I really had my heart set on putting on my first part tonight. Good reminder to slow down and think things through.

    This pic shows a dimple in the hood in one of the upper corners.


    Here are three pics of fiberglass damage to the hood (first two) and one of the doors (third pic), respectively.






    And finally a pic of the chassis dolly and trans mount interference.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  21. #58
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    I've never been accused of being a body and paint guy. But I've personally repaired damage/defects a lot worse than that. Very easily fixed (typically with 3M HSRF) and no big deal. You should have seen some of the earlier bodies.
    Last edited by edwardb; Today at 07:07 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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