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Thread: VAHokie's Roadster Build Thread - Body Fitment Questions

  1. #161
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Picked back up on the IRS install and first order of business was to install the toe arm. I noticed even after adding the spacers there was a small ~1/8" gap remaining. Not wanting to tighten anything down and possibly stress the mounts with that gap, I shot a note to FFR Tech to get some advice. Dan responded quickly confirming that in this instance it's OK to tighten down as-is.

    Here's a pic of what I was talking about.


    Most of the UCA and LCA frame mounts required the threaded rod method to open them up a bit, but everything went in fine. I have the DS mocked up before tackling the PS and torqueing everything down. Would appreciate some experienced builders set of eyes on this to ensure it's all set. Note, the jam nuts, adjustment sleeves, etc, have not been adjusted, they're just simply in place for now.

    This is where the UCA meets the knuckle and the one I'm most interested to get confirmation it's installed correctly.


    Here are two more shots of the DS mocked up.




    One tip I picked up at the build school and did on the front LCAs (although I didn't call it out in my earlier post) as well as the rear was cut grooves in the bushing ends to help with grease travel on the ends. Here's a shot of one of the rear LCAs. I used a Dremel and cutoff wheel, running the grooves from the center openings out to the edge.
    Last edited by VAHokie; 11-04-2019 at 07:37 PM.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  2. #162
    Senior Member MSumners's Avatar
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    UCA to knuckle looks correct. You will likely want more threads showing and equal on both sides to leave some adjustability later on though.
    This is how mine looked. I had to go back and adjust the thread lengths after this was taken.

    Coupe Kit Delivered 11/10/23

    Roadster Build thread: 2019-2022 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...4-Build-Thread

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  4. #163
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSumners View Post
    UCA to knuckle looks correct. You will likely want more threads showing and equal on both sides to leave some adjustability later on though.
    This is how mine looked. I had to go back and adjust the thread lengths after this was taken.
    Thanks for taking a look and confirming. I definitely need to make adjustments as I just have everything screwed in all the way for mock-up purposes.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  5. #164
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    The past two weeks have been pretty busy wrapping up the front brakes and IRS. For the front brakes, I installed the supplied hardware in the calipers, added a smear of CRC Brake & Caliper grease on the caliper pins, hardware, and the front inner face of the caliper where the back of the pad will make contact (Note: my kit came with two hardware kits, a black and silver set. I installed the black set and then realized I had the extra silver set. Quick email to FFR to confirm there isn't a difference between the two and I left it be). I was on the fence about swapping out the supplied StopTech brake pads with Hawk pads like so many others. My initial thought was to go with the provided pads and see how they felt as upgrading them later wouldn't be terrible difficult. The more I've thought about it and I'm going to just install them out of the gate. So even though the front caliper is installed, it'll need to come off when the new pads arrive.

    Hardware installed with CRC applied.


    Here's the underside of the caliper so you can see where I applied the CRC to the pins and on the front inner face of the caliper where the pad will make contact. Also applied a little to the back of the pad.


    Here's the CRC grease I used.


    Here's the caliper installed on the DS from both a side and top view.


    Last edited by VAHokie; 11-14-2019 at 09:44 PM.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  6. #165
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Continued with the IRS by installing the CV axles. To be safe, I got a hold of the Ford shop manual instructions for installing the axles to confirm the proper installation steps. Surprisingly, it was just as straightforward as the manual states - you just press it in until it seats, which you can feel/hear as the inner halfshaft circlip finds its home. Confirmed that I had the ~1/8 gap as the manual states and all set. With the CV axles in place, I was able to get the knuckles, UCAs, LCAs and toe arms in place. For both the UCA and toe arm, I left ~1/2" of threads on either side of the adjustment sleeves. This isn't called out in the manual, but an important step for when you go to make adjustments for alignment down the road.

    Here's the 1/8" gap between the diff and inner CV axle shaft.


    Here's the UCA adjusters with the spacing.


    Here's the toe arm with the spacing.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  7. #166
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Question for the group: In looking over the IRS UCA mounts, I noticed that the forward UCA bolt barely has any thread protruding beyond the end of the locknut despite being torqued down. The front LCA aft bolt is the same way, although I didn't take notice earlier. Curious if folks are swapping these out for something longer (120mm vs. the supplied 110mm in the case of the IRS UCA) to achieve more thread engagement? I'm mostly concerned about the IRS UCA because that forward bolt would be a pain to swap out later once all the tin is in place.

    Here's a pic of the DS IRS UCA forward bolt i'm referencing.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  8. #167
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAHokie View Post
    Question for the group: In looking over the IRS UCA mounts, I noticed that the forward UCA bolt barely has any thread protruding beyond the end of the locknut despite being torqued down. The front LCA aft bolt is the same way, although I didn't take notice earlier. Curious if folks are swapping these out for something longer (120mm vs. the supplied 110mm in the case of the IRS UCA) to achieve more thread engagement? I'm mostly concerned about the IRS UCA because that forward bolt would be a pain to swap out later once all the tin is in place.

    Here's a pic of the DS IRS UCA forward bolt i'm referencing.
    I've used the bolts as is on the builds I've done, and haven't heard anyone who's replaced them. Maybe a purist would have another thread or two sticking out. But those distorted-thread locknuts are just not going to back out IMO. I suspect you noticed they went on pretty hard when installing and torquing down. Plus those bolts are pretty specialized and wouldn't be cheap, after you find them. I say use them.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #168
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I've used the bolts as is on the builds I've done, and haven't heard anyone who's replaced them. Maybe a purist would have another thread or two sticking out. But those distorted-thread locknuts are just not going to back out IMO. I suspect you noticed they went on pretty hard when installing and torquing down. Plus those bolts are pretty specialized and wouldn't be cheap, after you find them. I say use them.
    Thanks, Paul. I'll keep pressing on.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

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  11. #169
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    After addressing my UCA thread engagement concerns (thanks again, Paul!), I wrapped up the rear suspension by attaching the brackets to the calipers and installing my newly acquired Hawk HPS 5.0 brake pads (Part # HB580B.627). I also replaced the previously installed front brake pads with a set of Hawk HPS 5.0 pads (Part #HB274B.610). I did run into a little fitment issue with the rear pads where the mounting arms were just slightly too wide. I took a small amount off each end with a file and everything went into place.

    Here's the DS caliper with the installed brackets and pads. The brackets were one of many of the pieces that are provided in the kit as raw steel and I had powdercoated.


    Installed DS brake caliper side and top.
    Last edited by VAHokie; 11-14-2019 at 10:00 PM.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  12. #170
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    With both the front and rear suspension now complete, I paused to check back over all the work up until this point to ensure everything was installed properly, torqued correctly, etc. In doing so, I convinced myself that I should order the Moog outer tie rods (Part #ES2150RL) that many builders are using to help address the limited thread engagement you get with the part provided in the kit (I had ~1" engagement without a rough alignment). Removing the previously installed outer tie rods ended up being a major PIA (don't ask), so word of advice for other builders: if you're considering or even on the fence with this mod, just spend the ~$40 and do it out of the gate. Everything is back where it should be and I'm sleeping better at night now that I have ~1 15/16" engagement on each side (without an alignment adjustments).

    While messing around with the steering, I also decided to move the steering shaft flange bearings to the inside of the footbox to allow for greater ease in removing/adjusting the lower adapter in the future. I was OK with the placement on the outside of the footbox as the instructions state, but the more I thought about possibly needing to move the steering shaft out of the way for the engine install or to re-center the steering wheel after alignment, making this change felt like the right thing to do. There's just one problem: one of the pedalbox mounts sits flush up against the opening on the rear. Pulled out the Dremel and made the necessary adjustments and it fits perfectly.

    Here's the pedalbox mount interference.


    The Dremel and cut-off wheel combo are proving very handy in this build.


    Here it is installed after the modification.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  13. #171
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    Good progress Tony. The Dremel is a very handy tool, glad I got one.
    JR
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

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  15. #172
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Your car is looking good Tony!
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  16. #173
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrcuz View Post
    Good progress Tony. The Dremel is a very handy tool, glad I got one.
    JR
    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Your car is looking good Tony!
    Thank you, gentlemen!
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

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  18. #174
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Before getting started on the fuel tank install, I wanted to get some thoughts and input from other builders on which route to go with the fuel pump, mechanical or electric. A lot of great advice and different POVs were provided here. I'm certain I'll be going with a mechanical pump, but will hold off on purchasing anything right now in the event a pump is supplied with my engine. Great call out by CraigS and a few others to be sure to specify the engine will need a front cover w/ the mount and an eccentric on the cam.

    I elected to enlarge the fuel tank vent openings as others have done to increase airflow. This is intended to allow displaced air to escape without backing up the filler neck when gassing up. There are larger diameter options on the market, but figured I'd try this out first. I also checked with someone who did the mod and he confirmed he hasn't encountered any issues on his end (thanks, BadAsp427).

    On the top end, I enlarged the opening to 13/64". Any more and I felt it would start eating at the neck. Here's a side-by-side comparison showing the difference in opening (enlarged on the left and original on right). I received two vents in my kit and used the unmodified one for reference


    For the bottom end, I opened up the pinched ends with a pair of pliers, removed the hardware and drilled it out to 13/64" as well. Took a minute to figure out how best to crimp the end back together and settled on using the vise and screwdriver shaft. Not quite like new, but good enough.


    For the fuel pick-up, I also opened up the end of the send line to 9/32". I didn't bother with the return line since I'll be running a carb. Question for the group: What is the best way to ensure all the shavings from enlarging the hole are removed from the sender? With the mesh strainer on the end I can't blow air through the tube and it doesn't appear it can be removed easily.
    Last edited by VAHokie; 11-20-2019 at 09:36 PM.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  19. #175
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Tried to send you a PM, but looks like your in box is full. Won't let me send. Something to check.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  20. #176
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Tried to send you a PM, but looks like your in box is full. Won't let me send. Something to check.
    Thanks, Paul. Should be good now.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  21. #177
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Progress has been slow with the holidays and things being crazy at work, but was able to get the gas tank installed. Nothing crazy here but thought I'd callout a few things that might help others and solicit thoughts from the forum on a few others. Unpacking the fuel tank and kit supplied parts, there are two sets of retaining clips and O-rings provided for the fuel pick-up and sending units. One set is actually true to its name and cylindrical in shape, the other has more of a rectangular shape to it. I elected to use the cylindrical shaped o-ring and applied gas-resistant contact adhesive/sealant (Seal-all).

    In bending down the flanges on the gas tank, there was a bit of cracking on the inside of the weld. It appears this is limited to the protectant coating on the gas tank and not the actual tank. Curious if this happened to anyone else?


    As noted by many others, the 2" supplied bolts have no chance in closing the gap on the PS between the frame mount and strap. I went ahead and purchased a 3.5" bolt from Fastenal and it seemed to do the trick, although the angle it's pitched does concern me.


    The supplied 2" bolt for the DS worked just fine, although also pitched, but to the aft of the car.


    The PS frame mount also needed to be pushed forward slightly to better seat against the tank. I read many have used a small rubber mallet or similar, but I chose to use a ratchet to slowly pull it forward. It's hard to tell in the pic, but there is a small gap between the tank and edge of the frame mount.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  22. #178
    Senior Member egchewy79's Avatar
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    I had similar issues with the finish on the gas tank cracking as I bent the flange. I am also not concerned about the pitch of your bolts as mine did the same. The biggest challenge was getting a socket to lineup with the head of the bolt at the angle shown

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  24. #179
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    Tank gasket

    Good to see you back at it Tony. Another thing to keep an eye on is the rubber gasket on the filler tube and tank. I read another post during the summer about it and checked mine and it was nearly cut half way thru. I ordered a Ford replacement
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

  25. #180
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    Here is the Ford part# F4ZZ-9072-DA
    JR
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

  26. #181
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Hey Tony, I hate to tell you this but I had no luck with the seal all when I installed my tank. It started leaking within a month or so. When I took the pickup & fuel pump hanger out to see what was going on, it appears the seal all becomes rigid over time, which leads to cracks, which leads to leaks.

    I replaced the two gaskets & used the Ford-recommended lubricant - motor oil - when putting everything together. Note that there are two types of gaskets: one has a circular cross section & the other has a square cross section. Either one works just fine.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  27. #182
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by egchewy79 View Post
    I had similar issues with the finish on the gas tank cracking as I bent the flange. I am also not concerned about the pitch of your bolts as mine did the same. The biggest challenge was getting a socket to lineup with the head of the bolt at the angle shown
    Thanks for confirming and putting my mind at ease. I didn't even try a socket and just ended up using a 8mm hex key.

    Quote Originally Posted by jrcuz View Post
    Good to see you back at it Tony. Another thing to keep an eye on is the rubber gasket on the filler tube and tank. I read another post during the summer about it and checked mine and it was nearly cut half way thru. I ordered a Ford replacement
    Thanks for the heads-up, Jerry. Curious what caused that. I've read other comments about the edges of the tank openings being very sharp and needing to be addressed, but mine were actually quite smooth and profiled.


    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Hey Tony, I hate to tell you this but I had no luck with the seal all when I installed my tank. It started leaking within a month or so. When I took the pickup & fuel pump hanger out to see what was going on, it appears the seal all becomes rigid over time, which leads to cracks, which leads to leaks.

    I replaced the two gaskets & used the Ford-recommended lubricant - motor oil - when putting everything together. Note that there are two types of gaskets: one has a circular cross section & the other has a square cross section. Either one works just fine.
    Thanks, John. Appreciate the heads-up and certainly easier to make that swap now. Do you have a part # handy?
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  28. #183
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    I knew you were gonna ask me that, and unfortunately I don't. The good news is that F5 provides an OEM Ford Mustang tank, so any Napa, Advance, or Autozone can easily get one for you.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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  30. #184
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    Tony here is the part # for the fill pipe gasket
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

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  32. #185
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Started work on the brake lines and ran into my first question for the group. It appears I installed the F panels too far forward which leaves too small of a space to position the front brake line mount against the chassis without interfering with the UCA pivot shaft. Other than not being as rigid of a mount, any issues with affixing it to the F panel as shown below?

    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  33. #186
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    Hi Tony, there might be a problem when it comes time to install the inner splash guards. Any idea how far off they are? You might also think about installing the brake line bracket with the hole horizontal to eliminate a bend in the braided flex line. I didn't and wish I had.
    JR
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    Last edited by jrcuz; 12-22-2019 at 07:39 AM.
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

  34. #187
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrcuz View Post
    Hi Tony, there might be a problem when it comes time to install the inner splash guards. Any idea how far off they are? You might also think about installing the brake line bracket with the hole horizontal to eliminate a bend in the braided flex line. I didn't and wish I had.
    JR
    Thanks, Jerry. It's about 3/8" on the DS. I may just drill out the panels and reposition them. Fortunately, I placed all the rivets where I can get a drill to them, with only one that could potentially give me hard time. I had the horizontal placement of the bracket in my notes from the build school, thanks for the reminder!
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  35. Thanks jrcuz thanked for this post
  36. #188
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    Mine are also close but work perfect. See post 43 in my build thread linked below for pictures.
    MKIV #9542 Complete Kit, Coyote, IRS - Delivered - 2/19/19, First start - 9/8/19, Go Cart - 9/14/19
    1965 Mustang Convertible 4v 289
    Build Thread HERE

  37. #189
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Thanks for the sharing, Cruzzz. I ended up removing the DS F panel and moving it back ~1/2". Jrcuz's note about tire fitment was a good callout and figured it's easier to make the change now then later on in the build. Cleaning the silicone off the frame and F panel was not fun! In moving the F panel back I was able to reuse most of the previously drilled holes in the F panel, but there are 4 that I couldn't. The type A in me doesn't like seeing those imperfections, but figure they won't be seen by anyone and I can always fill them with something later if it really bothers me.

    I ended up placing the flexible brake mount on the inside of the F panel using 3/16 rivets as I had mocked up before. I think this makes for a cleaner look and it appears a few folks have done the same, so I don't think there's cause for concern.

    Question: The instructions have you tightening down the caliper banjo bolts to 29 ft-lbs, but I recall reading that others have raised concern about doing this and possibly just leaving it hand tight - what's everyone doing?

    Here's the PS all set-up and you can see the DS in the distance behind it.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  38. #190
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAHokie View Post

    Question: The instructions have you tightening down the caliper banjo bolts to 29 ft-lbs, but I recall reading that others have raised concern about doing this and possibly just leaving it hand tight - what's everyone doing?
    Don’t tighten to 29 ft-lbs. I snapped a couple of bolts myself before realizing. I sent FFR about is as well so maybe they’d make a revision. Just snug up initially by hand. Then if you have a leak when testing the system, just tighten slightly until the leak stops. Doesn’t take much.
    Last edited by cv2065; 12-24-2019 at 04:22 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
    Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
    Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2

  39. #191
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Don’t tighten to 29 ft-lbs. I snapped a couple of bolts myself before realizing. I sent FFR about is as well so maybe they’d make a revision. Just snug up initially by hand. Then if you have a leak when testing the system, just tighten slightly until the leak stops. Doesn’t take much.
    Agree whole-heartedly. Snug them up, check for leaks (several pressure cycles including a 15-20 minute one), adjust as necessary.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  40. #192
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Agree whole-heartedly. Snug them up, check for leaks (several pressure cycles including a 15-20 minute one), adjust as necessary.


    John
    Thanks for confirming!
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  41. #193
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Per phileas_fogg and jrcuz's recommendations, I pulled the fuel tank to 1) replace the Seal-all gasket material for the fuel pick-up and fuel level sender and 2) replace the provided fuel filler neck rubber gasket with the OEM Ford part# F4ZZ 9072 DA (I ended picking this up from a local Ford dealer vs. ordering online). For the replacement sealant, I opted for the Permatex Gasket Dressing and Sealant. Straight forward swap with the most time-consuming part being the removal of the hardened Seal-all gasket materials from the fuel tank surface.



    For folks considering swapping out the fuel filler neck rubber gasket, I'm not sure that you necessarily need too. In comparing the kit-provided version and the OEM part, they appear very similar in material, thickness, etc. Not sure if FFR has upgraded the kit-supplied part given some of the issues folks have experienced. Here are a couple of side-by-side views of the two gaskets (kit-provided on left, OEM Ford on right). The only difference I can tell is that the inner lip is slightly larger/thicker which you can see in the second pic below.





    While I had the fuel tank out, I also took the time to apply some black chassis paint to the filler neck for some added protection. Taped off the area that would sit within the tank and also where the fuel cap will seat to avoid anything from flaking off in the future and ending up in the tank. Once painted, applied a couple coats of clear for added protection. Also painted the fuel filler neck bracket.



    Last edited by VAHokie; 12-30-2019 at 09:01 AM.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  42. #194
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    I had plans to use the CNC triple remote reservoirs that so many others have used in their builds. Unfortunately, I didn't order them prior to the company going out of business so I was left sourcing an alternative. I elected to go with the Jamar triple remote reservoir. It's a bit pricey but I like the fluid capacity it has and the black powder coated finish works with my build theme. Using a 2.5" x 2.5" 90 degree angle steel bar, fabricated a bracket to go underneath the 3/4" upper frame tube just in front of the DS footbox. Per other recommendations, placed the front edge of the reservoirs no more than 11" from the front of the DS footbox to avoid interference with the hood struts. As it sits now, it's 10" exactly. Also positioned it so that the reservoir caps don't exceed 1/4" above the frame.

    Here are all the parts used for the install.



    Here's a view from behind to see how it's installed to the frame.



    And the finished product.

    Last edited by VAHokie; 12-28-2019 at 09:39 PM.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  43. #195
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Getting ready to install the brake lines and quick question for those that have used the kit-supplied lines: The brake lines have different length fittings installed on either end. Does it matter how these are oriented, e.g. should the longer/shorter fitting be used at the MC or flexible brake line connections, or in the union points?

    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  44. #196
    Senior Member jrcuz's Avatar
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    Nice choice on the reservoirs, Tony. I looks,like I have to paint my filler pipe now.
    JR
    Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint

  45. #197
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrcuz View Post
    Nice choice on the reservoirs, Tony. I looks,like I have to paint my filler pipe now.
    JR
    Thanks, Jerry. Painting the filler pipe certainly isn't necessary and will likely never be seen, but a nice touch. At the very least, I think it's good to apply some clear for added protection against the elements.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  46. #198
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAHokie View Post
    Getting ready to install the brake lines and quick question for those that have used the kit-supplied lines: The brake lines have different length fittings installed on either end. Does it matter how these are oriented, e.g. should the longer/shorter fitting be used at the MC or flexible brake line connections, or in the union points?
    For our purposes it does not matter.

    Jeff

  47. #199
    Senior Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    For our purposes it does not matter.

    Jeff
    Thanks for confirming, Jeff!
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Delivered 1/5/19 l First Start 11/28/20 l First Go-kart 4/11/21 l Carb'd 347 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Upper/Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Upper/Lower Cool Tubes & Quiet Pipes l 18" FFR Gasser Wheels l Build Thread

  48. #200
    Senior Member bobm488's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAHokie View Post
    Thanks for the sharing, Cruzzz. I ended up removing the DS F panel and moving it back ~1/2". Jrcuz's note about tire fitment was a good callout and figured it's easier to make the change now then later on in the build. Cleaning the silicone off the frame and F panel was not fun! In moving the F panel back I was able to reuse most of the previously drilled holes in the F panel, but there are 4 that I couldn't. The type A in me doesn't like seeing those imperfections, but figure they won't be seen by anyone and I can always fill them with something later if it really bothers me.

    I ended up placing the flexible brake mount on the inside of the F panel using 3/16 rivets as I had mocked up before. I think this makes for a cleaner look and it appears a few folks have done the same, so I don't think there's cause for concern.

    Question: The instructions have you tightening down the caliper banjo bolts to 29 ft-lbs, but I recall reading that others have raised concern about doing this and possibly just leaving it hand tight - what's everyone doing?

    Here's the PS all set-up and you can see the DS in the distance behind it.
    I had to add a 90 deg fitting so the tire would not rub the brake line.

    Brake hit 2.jpg

    Brake line 3.jpg

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