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Thread: VAHokie's Roadster Build Thread - Panel Fabrication

  1. #41
    Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnK View Post
    Thanks for the build thread. This is all great information! I'm a few weeks behind you. My kit had a 12/22 complete date, so as Sally says, my "baby is in the nursery" waiting for Stewart to pick it up. Per my last discussion with Stewart, it should be picked up late this week or early next week and then it will start its long journey to the west coast. I'll be keeping tabs on your progress. Good luck!
    Glad this info helps! If you haven't already, ask Sally to send a nursery pic to add to your photo library. There's something about seeing your name, on your car that makes it feel real - at least it did for me.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by VAHokie View Post
    Glad this info helps! If you haven't already, ask Sally to send a nursery pic to add to your photo library. There's something about seeing your name, on your car that makes it feel real - at least it did for me.
    Already done!

    IMG_1632.JPG

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  4. #43
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    I continue to work through inventory, averaging 1-2 hours a night. My hope is to be done by the end of the weekend, which will be a week after delivery and consistent with what others have shared it took them to complete it. I'll be able to start the actual build, or should I say tear down process? I tackled the Fuel Tank and eBrake boxes last night (as well as a few others) and wanted to run a few things by the group:

    I believe these are the 3/8-5/16" and 1/4" fuel line connectors, but would like to confirm. It's not entirely clear in the instructions where these go, but in reviewing the pics in the manual it appears they attach to either end of the fuel filter - does that sound right?


    I also have two hoses, one is clearly the nylon fuel line that connects the filter with the tank (Part Name: Tank to Filter Fuel Line Assembly), and the other is Part Name: 1/4" ID, High Pressure Flexible Fuel Line. Can someone confirm where this goes?


    In the eBrake parts, I had two leftover items that weren't on the actual parts list: a wing nut and washer. Did anyone else receive these?
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  5. #44
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    Hi Tony, I just thought that when you get your engine and trans you will need to dial indicate your bell housing. It is very easy to do with the proper tools. When I got my eng/trans from Mike Forte I confirmed with him he doesn't do this. There are several videos on youtube, check out american powertrain for their video. As they say if you don't do this step and you have trans bearing problems down the road your trans is not covered under tremec's warranty. I have the dial gauge to do it with or you may be able to get one on loan from an auto parts store. I bought mine and a magnetic base from Harbor Freight for cheap money.
    Good progress on your inventory.
    Jerry
    MK4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, high back kirkey seats, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18

  6. #45
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Hey Tony,

    Regarding the fuel system parts, where they go (and if you'll even use them) will be dictated by your engine choices (EFI vs carb; internal electric vs external electric vs mechanical fuel pump, etc.). I didn't use the nylon fuel line because it was too short to get from the tank to my fuel filter location. I did use the quick connects and the provided rubber hose for my EFI system. In other words, you'll soon have a "Parts Not Used" box, and have to make up the rest as you go.

    Regarding the wing nut & fender washer, I don't recall seeing those. But make a note where they're located so if you come up short somewhere you don't have to make a trip to Fastenal.


    John

    NOTE: If you go with an EFI system, make sure whatever fuel filter you use meets the EFI specification. An EFI system expecting 10u filtration won't last long if all you've got is a 15u filter.
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 01-11-2019 at 05:35 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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  8. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrcuz View Post
    Hi Tony, I just thought that when you get your engine and trans you will need to dial indicate your bell housing. It is very easy to do with the proper tools. When I got my eng/trans from Mike Forte I confirmed with him he doesn't do this. There are several videos on youtube, check out american powertrain for their video. As they say if you don't do this step and you have trans bearing problems down the road your trans is not covered under tremec's warranty. I have the dial gauge to do it with or you may be able to get one on loan from an auto parts store. I bought mine and a magnetic base from Harbor Freight for cheap money.
    Good progress on your inventory.
    Jerry
    Hey, Jerry. I appreciate the reminder on this. I recall you mentioning that during my visit to see your build and actually have it noted in my discussion notes. Still a bit out from this step, but I'll be sure to connect when the time comes.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  9. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Hey Tony,

    Regarding the fuel system parts, where they go (and if you'll even use them) will be dictated by your engine choices (EFI vs carb; internal electric vs external electric vs mechanical fuel pump, etc.). I didn't use the nylon fuel line because it was too short to get from the tank to my fuel filter location. I did use the quick connects and the provided rubber hose for my EFI system. In other words, you'll soon have a "Parts Not Used" box, and have to make up the rest as you go.

    Regarding the wing nut & fender washer, I don't recall seeing those. But make a note where they're located so if you come up short somewhere you don't have to make a trip to Fastenal.


    John

    NOTE: If you go with an EFI system, make sure whatever fuel filter you use meets the EFI specification. An EFI system expecting 10u filtration won't last long if all you've got is a 15u filter.
    Great info, John, and appreciate the heads-up on the fuel filter specification. I intend to go the carb route and will be sure to confirm that what I have will be sufficient or if I need to swap it out with something else.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  10. #48
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Also, when you find your fan, look up the current draw for whatever manufacturer / model you have. Mine was a Maradyne fan that only draws 12-15A. I replaced the 30A fuse in the Ron Francis fuse box with a 20A to better match the expected load. And if you replace the fan's spade connectors with Weatherpak, note that typically the latter are rated to 20A so you'll want a 20A fuse anyway.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

  11. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Also, when you find your fan, look up the current draw for whatever manufacturer / model you have. Mine was a Maradyne fan that only draws 12-15A. I replaced the 30A fuse in the Ron Francis fuse box with a 20A to better match the expected load. And if you replace the fan's spade connectors with Weatherpak, note that typically the latter are rated to 20A so you'll want a 20A fuse anyway.


    John
    Hey, John.

    Unpacked the radiator fan and it's a Faz Elektrik M162K-F. Upon googling it, it took me to the Maradyne website and it appears we probably have a similar fan, although mine draws 18a. What advantage does lowering the fuse rating from 30 to 20 to more closely align with the expected load? Wouldn't it be better to have a higher rated fuse to allow for a little wiggle room? Admittedly, the electrical components of the build are where I feel most deficient, so apologize for what may be a noob question.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  12. #50
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    One question for the group and a request for confirmation on two parts. Thanks in advance to all who can share some insight!

    First the question: In the Fuel Line components section, it states you should receive two brass barbed fittings, one 1/4" and the other 5/16". Located both (see below), but the one on the left isn't barbed, it's actually a clamp style fitting. Will this be an issue?


    Now for the parts confirmation: Can someone confirm these two parts are the LH/RH Pin Mount Plate, Front, 1/16" Steel?


    And can you someone confirm these are the 3/16" Steel Door Latch Spacers?
    Last edited by VAHokie; 01-13-2019 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Updated first pic to the correct one
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  13. #51
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    did all your parts come in the boxes they told you?? could not find some of mein and it looks like they had 5 open boxs and
    just threw stuff into whatever box had room
    I thought some stuff was missing and found it in other boxes hope to get a assistant to help inventory it
    I took a HF 30 in moving dolly and moved the frame to work site put wood on it and 2 8 in planks and it worked fine
    think building a truck is gonna be a real adventure

  14. #52
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    The fuse keeps the wire from melting and potentially causing a fire in the case of current overload. You do need some wiggle room; I believe 10-15% over the anticipated load is the rule of thumb.

    In my case, the Weatherpak connectors I used were rated to 20A (you can get higher rated Weatherpaks; you just have to look for them). If I'd left the 30A fuse in place, the actual fuse would have been the connector. Since swapping the spade connectors for Weatherpaks is a common upgrade, and you've got easy access to the fan now, it's an easy decision / change to make.


    John

    P.S. Yes, you've got door latch spacers. The other brackets must be for the hood pins; I had them left over since I used the gas struts. I don't see the picture of the fuel line fittings.
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 01-13-2019 at 09:00 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

  15. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    The fuse keeps the wire from melting and potentially causing a fire in the case of current overload. You do need some wiggle room; I believe 10-15% over the anticipated load is the rule of thumb.

    In my case, the Weatherpak connectors I used were rated to 20A (you can get higher rated Weatherpaks; you just have to look for them). If I'd left the 30A fuse in place, the actual fuse would have been the connector. Since swapping the spade connectors for Weatherpaks is a common upgrade, and you've got easy access to the fan now, it's an easy decision / change to make.


    John

    P.S. Yes, you've got door latch spacers. The other brackets must be for the hood pins; I had them left over since I used the gas struts. I don't see the picture of the fuel line fittings.
    Thanks, John. Updated the pic above to the fittings.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  16. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Houdini View Post
    did all your parts come in the boxes they told you?? could not find some of mein and it looks like they had 5 open boxs and
    just threw stuff into whatever box had room
    I thought some stuff was missing and found it in other boxes hope to get a assistant to help inventory it
    I took a HF 30 in moving dolly and moved the frame to work site put wood on it and 2 8 in planks and it worked fine
    think building a truck is gonna be a real adventure
    Sorry to hear about your experience with the inventory. I've actually had the opposite experience with almost every part being where they said it would be and most everything accounted for (very few things missing). I couldn't imagine having to go on a scavenger hunt for parts - it would have increased the inventory two fold.

    Congrats on being one of the early builders for the truck. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

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  18. #55
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    Fuel line fittings: The one with the bump is still considered a barb, just a different kind. Still takes a push-on hose.

    Pin mount plates, yes, for hood pins, if you choose to use them. Most dont on todays builds.

    Door Latch spacers. Yep.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  19. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydster View Post
    Fuel line fittings: The one with the bump is still considered a barb, just a different kind. Still takes a push-on hose.

    Pin mount plates, yes, for hood pins, if you choose to use them. Most dont on todays builds.

    Door Latch spacers. Yep.
    Thanks for confirming and good to know. Just saved me some $ not having them PC'd.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  20. #57
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    Completed the box inventory over the weekend and moved onto the mounted components this evening. Nice to be in the garage and actually working with tools on the disassembly vs. checking boxes on paper, although there was still some of that as the various trunk and door hinges were pulled off and accounted for. I did encounter some minor damage to the fiberglass for the hood and a door (see first three pics below). Interested to get those that are familiar with the bodywork process if these are non-issues and I should just move on, or include it in my missing/damaged parts note to FFR. Based on the part lines and other areas of the body I'm sure they're a non-issue, but I'd rather be sure (hopefully one of the Jeff's can chime in here!).

    I also had my first d'oh moment as I realized that the position of my frame on the chassis dolly places the cross braces connecting the 4" tubes right up against the rear trans mount holes. For those of you that have attended the build school, you'll recall that the trans mount is the first piece that they instruct you to put in as they claim it's easier now than later when the manual instructs you too. Not an issue, just need to adjust how the frame is resting on the dolly, but I really had my heart set on putting on my first part tonight. Good reminder to slow down and think things through.

    This pic shows a dimple in the hood in one of the upper corners.


    Here are three pics of fiberglass damage to the hood (first two) and one of the doors (third pic), respectively.






    And finally a pic of the chassis dolly and trans mount interference.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  21. #58
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    I've never been accused of being a body and paint guy. But I've personally repaired damage/defects a lot worse than that. Very easily fixed (typically with 3M HSRF) and no big deal. You should have seen some of the earlier bodies.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-17-2019 at 07:07 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  22. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I've never been accused of being a body and paint guy. But I've personally repaired damage/defects a lot worse than that. Very easily fixed (typically with 3M HSRF) and no big deal. You should have seen some of the earlier bodies.
    Thanks, Paul. Figured the gouges were fine as they can be filled, sanded, etc. - more concerned about the dimple in the hood. Almost like there's a foreign object stuck in the fiberglass.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

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    grind it and concave it and fill with glass matt and resin if you go through put duct tape behind , after its cured grind and sand to fit curve of panel A da sander or air file can be used and HF has tools that will do it , its dirty and messey is a real problem
    after that it time to finish prime and spot putty or whatever to get it paint ready , anything that your hand can feel will show in finished product

  24. #61


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    No worries about your body panels by what I can see in the pics.

    RE: Trans mount; I do it differently than the build school guys and don't install it until the engine and transmission go in. Different strokes...

    Jeff

  25. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    No worries about your body panels by what I can see in the pics.

    RE: Trans mount; I do it differently than the build school guys and don't install it until the engine and transmission go in. Different strokes...

    Jeff
    Thanks for confirming, Jeff. I won't lose any more sleep over it.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  26. #63
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    Small but important milestones reached this past weekend as I received half of my POL items from FFR, officially completed the inventory, including all the mounted body components, and pulled the body off and placed it up onto the body buck. I had the non-mounted body components inventoried two weekends ago and was toying with the idea of sending in my list of missing/damaged parts to FFR, but opted to hold off until everything was completed. Glad I did as there were a few additional things I uncovered worth including in my note. Re: inventory, hats off to Paul @ FFR who packed my parts as everything was where the packing list said it would be and there were a limited number of missing and damaged pieces. For those who will be tackling the inventory process soon, I recommend taking your time to document and count every part, familiarize yourself with what it is and where it goes. As others have said and I'll now second after going through the inventory, it will pay dividends months down the road when you're in build mode.

    Prior to removing the body, I took a sharpie pen, held it flush against the underside of the body and traced along the firewall panel, PS firewall extension panel, and rear backwall to ensure I had the recommended 3/8" gap for the bulb seal. Only two places appear to require trimming: the DS of the rear backwall and the PS firewall extension panel.



    You can see the contact looking at the DS backwall and then you'll see the line created with the sharpie.





    Here's the PS firewall extension panel.

    Last edited by VAHokie; 01-21-2019 at 05:52 PM.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  27. #64
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    With the body off, I was able to spend some time looking over the panel fitment. My plan is to get all of the panels fit where they'll be permanently installed at the appropriate time in the build process so that I can eventually get everything PC'd at one time. Surprisingly, aside from a few areas, the fitment is pretty good and may not require too much adjustment to get them to their final position. I did notice two areas where a weld interferes with a panel sitting flush to the frame, specifically the PS F panel and PS outside trunk wall. Like others, I'll notch the panels to sit flush. I'm also taking a page out of a few build threads by creating interior side panels for the upper trunk area on both the DS and PS to give it a more finished look and help with carpet placement. I took measurements and plan to transfer them onto construction paper for a test fit before the final transfer to a piece of .040 aluminum. If anyone has any interest in those measurements as a starting point for doing the same in their build, shoot me a PM.

    Here's a pic of the weld interference on the PS F panel, which you can see from the dimple just below and to the left of the screw.



    Here's a pic of the gap created by the weld interference on the PS outside trunk wall.

    Last edited by VAHokie; 01-26-2019 at 08:24 AM.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  28. #65
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    Alright, parts on the frame... Thanks VAHokie and fixit for the heads up on alignment. I'll drive off that bridge when I come to it... Wait, bad metaphor..

    2jjpz9EZTaSTPYWzDkJ1HA.jpg
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    Netgain Hyper9, SME AC-X1 Controller, Tesla S modules, Orion BMS

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  30. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zuma737 View Post
    Alright, parts on the frame... Thanks VAHokie and fixit for the heads up on alignment. I'll drive off that bridge when I come to it... Wait, bad metaphor..

    2jjpz9EZTaSTPYWzDkJ1HA.jpg
    Good progress, Steve. What did you use to paint your F panel?
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

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    I used Krylon automotive premium enamel just to try on a place that will be hidden
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    Netgain Hyper9, SME AC-X1 Controller, Tesla S modules, Orion BMS

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    Here is a better photo of the UCA. I did flip the ball joint mount over. Looks like mine came from a different vendor. So did I flip one that came correct already?
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  33. #69
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zuma737 View Post
    Here is a better photo of the UCA. I did flip the ball joint mount over. Looks like mine came from a different vendor. So did I flip one that came correct already?
    The axis of the ball joint points out from the car at the bottom, so the one in your photograph is correct.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

  34. #70


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    The UCA on both sides need to be assembled with the ball joint plate oriented to angle the joint outward and so that the grease fittings on the crossbar links point up. This will result in the welded, fixed end being to the front on the driver's side and to the rear on the passenger side.

    Jeff

  35. #71
    #9505 Zuma737's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff and John!
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  36. #72
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    Disassembly Continues - Aluminum Panels

    It’s been awhile since I last posted, but work continues on getting panels fitted and trimmed (to address weld interference). I’ve been working my way from the back of the car to the front, getting the exact placement and tracing the underside as guides for rivet placement. While I was pulling the trunk pieces off, I took the opportunity to grind down the weld in the back, as well as on the PS where the F panel had interference. I wasn’t planning on grinding these, but after further inspection it appears notching the panels for relief would result in holes in the panels and, more importantly, there was extra weld material so I figured a little haircut wouldn’t hurt it. Here’s the weld before the trim.


    And now after. Any suggestions for what to cover up the exposed metal with that matches the satin black PC of the frame?


    There were two other places that required a panel trim, one on the DS cockpit floor towards the back to provide relief for a weld so it would sit flat and the other being the PS trans tunnel side wall as it slightly extended past the top edge as you moved towards the front of the car. No amount of adjusting would get it to sit flush. I think a few others have experienced this same thing on their build, so not going to lose any sleep over it.

    One thing I noticed in positioning the cockpit backwall is that there’s a 1/16 difference in the gap between the left and right seatbelt slots. Normally wouldn’t worry about this, but the fact that the body rests on this, I’ve been stewing over it. I’ve finally made peace believing that the bulb seal will help address any slight inconsistencies, but let me know if anyone disagrees.


    I spent about 3 hours on the DS footbox playing around with panel position to get it right (OCD was getting the better of me!). In doing so, I have a couple of holes in the panel that will not be used that will require filling – any suggestions? The only remaining issue with the footbox is that there’s a gap created on the inside of the engine bay towards the back of the DS footbox. Anyone else encounter this same issue?
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  37. #73
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    UCA and IRS Knuckle Mods

    In addition to the aluminum panels, I also had the opportunity to make adjustments to the UCA sleeves to help ensure I’ll be able to get the 7 degrees of positive caster when it’s time for alignment. Big thanks to CraigS for giving up his Sunday afternoon so we could use his lathe to make the sleeve cuts.

    I won’t go into the details of the mod as others have already done an exceptional job explaining it (see Fixit’s build thread, post #273 and on). Like John, I applied some anti-seize to each sleeve before buttoning them up. Also took the time to flip the ball joint mount while I had everything apart.

    This pic shows the welded, fixed ends positioned to the front of the DS and the rear of the PS (indicated by the circles) and the two sleeves that were trimmed (indicated by arrows). Note: you only trim the rear sleeves on each side.


    And here’s a close-up of the DS.


    While at CraigS’s, we also used his band saw to cut the ears off the IRS knuckles, a step I wasn’t particularly looking forward to doing with a sawzall and gladly took him up on his offer. I’ll clean these up with acetone and apply some clear engine enamel for protection.


    The divot you see in this pic is the remnants of the right screw hole of the two you cut between.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  38. #74
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    Good progress Tony and great decision getting your ears trimmed with Craigs's band saw.
    JR
    MK4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, high back kirkey seats, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
    First start and go-cart 4/11/18

  39. #75
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Very nice progress Tony.

    Regarding the "extra" holes, you can add a rivet or a short screw & nut to fill them. By the time you cover with insulation & carpet, you'll never know. (Don't tell anyone, but my front foot box panel has a 1/2" bolt & washer covering that extra hole inboard of the steering shaft bearing).


    John
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  40. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrcuz View Post
    Good progress Tony and great decision getting your ears trimmed with Craigs's band saw.
    JR
    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Very nice progress Tony.

    Regarding the "extra" holes, you can add a rivet or a short screw & nut to fill them. By the time you cover with insulation & carpet, you'll never know. (Don't tell anyone, but my front foot box panel has a 1/2" bolt & washer covering that extra hole inboard of the steering shaft bearing).


    John
    Thanks, Jerry and John! Hope to have everything marked and pulled off the car tonight so that I can begin drilling.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  41. #77
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Making some good progress. Keep it up. Your thread was the first time I read the term "nursery" for our cars. I like that. LOL.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
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  42. #78
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I won’t go into the details of the mod as others have already done an exceptional job explaining it (see Fixit’s build thread, post #273 and on). Like John, I applied some anti-seize to each sleeve before buttoning them up. Also took the time to flip the ball joint mount while I had everything apart.
    antiseize.png

    (Cutting the IRS knuckles is a job pretty high on the "pucker factor" scale. It can be done many ways, but a metal-cutting bandsaw is the way to go!)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  43. #79

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Cutting the IRS knuckles is a job pretty high on the "pucker factor" scale. It can be done many ways, but a metal-cutting bandsaw is the way to go!
    I totally agree. When I cut mine, I did a test cut further up on the arm with a metal cutting blade on my Sawzall. The blade skipped around a lot before finally biting, and then made a pretty ugly jagged cut before finally killing the blade a third of the way through. I put a metal cutting blade on my bandsaw and cut through it like butter. You can see the first test cut with the Sawzall in the photo, then a second test cut with the band saw, and then the final cut with the band saw. Much less of a puckerfest with the right tool.

    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  44. #80
    Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    Making some good progress. Keep it up. Your thread was the first time I read the term "nursery" for our cars. I like that. LOL.
    I can't take credit for that. Sally at FFR referenced it and I thought it was fitting.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

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