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Thread: SBC/TKO600/4-Link Alignment

  1. #1
    Senior Member MBB Larry's Avatar
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    SBC/TKO600/4-Link Alignment

    Need some guidance here. Thanks to my helper Jamie (Star Mobile 1) I got my Engine in Heidi (My car). Had to modify the Engine Mounts to move it rearward to clear the Engine Pulley. I got a document from Blueprint to explain the mod. So now it Engine and 5-Speed are in. I presently have the Tail Shaft setting on a piece of wood until if figure out the next procedure. I have a gap of about 1 1/2" between the Transmission Mount and FFR Bracket. I assume I will have to fabricate some kind of Spacer. My Drive Shaft will have to be shortened a bit. My question is >> How is the best way to set the Engine/Driveshaft/Pinion angle. I have the Adjustable 4-Link Suspension. Suggestions??

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    FFR Hot Rod #1106

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  3. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Hey Fellow Chevy Fan,

    1. Watch this video if you are unfamiliar with U-Joint Phasing.
    https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4

    2. Get an angle tool if you don't already have one from your local hardware or home improvement store and no it doesn't need to be expensive.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-...-750/100193539

    3. Adjust your chassis so that you are at the proper ride height.

    4. Check the angle of your drive-line.

    5. Check the angle of your pinion.

    6. Adjust your upper links to match the angles, but set the pinion downward between 1 and 2 degrees so that it 0's out under a load.

    7. Add spacers to elevate your transmission if you don't have enough adjustment ability in your upper links to make you hap-hap-happy.

    8. Also, check your front to back wheelbase and side to side clearance to make sure your rear axle is square with the chassis.

    Good Luck & Merry Christmas!

    Steve

    PS: Love The Color Of Your Chassis & The Pics Look Fabulous!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-23-2018 at 12:19 PM.

  4. #3
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Steve covers the basics above very well.

    It appears that you have a carb setting on that SBC so I'll just add that if you were to pull that carb and look closely you'd likely see that the mounting base on the manifold is angled down ~2-degrees so that the carb sets level when the engine is installed. Most OEMs will set the engine / trans in at a slight angle with the trans output shaft lower. You may choose to use that angle as a guide for the initial setup and adjust from there. If I recall, the kit came with some spacers for the trans mount to get the angle correct. And it looks like you have adjustable UCA's so it should be easy to get the pinion angle set if the engine / trans angle is in the ballpark of 1-2 degrees.

    Guess I should add an important tip here. If you are checking angles to the "world" then it would be important to have your ride height adjusted before you start all the angular adjustments. You can relax the springs or pull the wheels and block up the chassis to your ride height if you want a more stable position.
    Last edited by NAZ; 12-23-2018 at 12:46 PM.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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    Senior Member MBB Larry's Avatar
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    Thanks!! Great advise. That is my project for next week. I need a day off. The color is Illusion Cherry PMB 6905.
    FFR Hot Rod #1106

  6. #5
    Senior Member MBB Larry's Avatar
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    Thanks Naz, I have to look for Spacers. I hope they are Block Type. Right now the car is still light weight. I'll be working on it tomorrow. Need a day off. Thanks again for all your help!
    Larry
    FFR Hot Rod #1106

  7. #6
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MBB Larry View Post
    Need some guidance here. Thanks to my helper Jamie (Star Mobile 1) I got my Engine in Heidi (My car). Had to modify the Engine Mounts to move it rearward to clear the Engine Pulley. I got a document from Blueprint to explain the mod. So now it Engine and 5-Speed are in. I presently have the Tail Shaft setting on a piece of wood until if figure out the next procedure. I have a gap of about 1 1/2" between the Transmission Mount and FFR Bracket. I assume I will have to fabricate some kind of Spacer. My Drive Shaft will have to be shortened a bit. My question is >> How is the best way to set the Engine/Driveshaft/Pinion angle. I have the Adjustable 4-Link Suspension. Suggestions??

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    Thanks for the shout out Larry, but I think you give me more credit than deserved on the Engine drop. Anyway, I don't know if you have an ACE Hardware nearby, but they carry a lot of pre-sized bushings and spacers (off the shelf) that you may be able to use instead of fabbing. If you want to try something like that and don't have one near you, just give me a holler and I can check sizes for you at my local store.

    Take care bud.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

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    Senior Member MBB Larry's Avatar
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    Thanks Jamie.... I now have my Project for Wednesday!
    FFR Hot Rod #1106

  9. #8
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Engine looks great in there Larry. Progressing well!

    Question, on your firewall were the different pieces at different angles? Just started to test fit mine yesterday and the bigger top section is at a different angle than the bottom sides.... Just curious. I haven't looked at mine long enough to understand where the discrepancy is coming from and if I'll have to shim something...

  10. #9
    Senior Member MBB Larry's Avatar
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    You are correct. From what I am told, it is not uncommon to see this. From what I was told, the Upper Structure of the Firewall is welded on after the jig process. So the "Tilt" can
    vary slightly. I guess some worse than others. When I checked mine, it was slightly off. I decided to live with it, as it would be a major job (for me with limited tooling) to make
    perfect. I just went out to the Garage with my fantastic Laser Tool and took a photo for you. You can also contact me >> [email protected]
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    FFR Hot Rod #1106

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