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Thread: FFR Roll Bar installation to allow easy removal

  1. #1
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    FFR Roll Bar installation to allow easy removal

    I have searched the posts and cant find a direct reference to the FFR standard roll bar installation and how to get around the binding that happens when trying to install it. Could others that have experience in installing the FFR standard roll bar chime in and provide your experiences and any tips, tricks modifications that you may have done to get it to go in and also have it removable when required? I tried to do an initial fit and only got about an inch down before it started to bind up where I was not comfortable in forcing it any further.
    If those with experience have aligned it in a certain way, please chime in. THX!

  2. #2

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    I've tried to put it in and found 2 problems.
    The ID of the holes in the pipes that are welded to the frame needs to be opened up slightly.
    I'm using a small diameter grinding wheel on a 12" shaft attached to my drill to open up the ID. I haven't finished grinding yet.

    The vertical sides of my roll bar pipe aren't parallel to each other. The ends of the pipe are closer together (~1/16") than they are when measured 12" up from the ends.
    Once I get one end of the roll bar to fit into the receiving end on the chassis I'll use a jack (or something else) to spread the ends apart. At least that's the plan.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    JimLev, 3M makes various size / grit abrasive flapper wheels and if you get the ones that have a 1/4-20 threaded spindle you can buy or make an extension that will get as deep into the roll bar receiver as you need. It will make a much cleaner finish and that's what you need. Polishing up both the receiver and the roll bar down legs (use emery cloth for this) and if the roll bar is still hard to install you have other issues. If you don't have the tools to precisely measure the OD / ID of the roll bar and receivers then get a short length of 1.5" tubing (if I recall the roll bar is 1.5") and use it to check the fit of the receivers so you know when you're done "polishing" the ID. Or absent that, use one leg of the roll bar but this is a bit more cumbersome.

    You've already found the the roll bar bends are not exactly 90-deg (down tubes not parallel) but also look for any twisting. Find a flat surface and lay the roll bar on it -- if both down tubes lay flat against the surface it's not twisted. For your parallelism issue you can usually bend the roll bar enough by hand (or a jack / come along) by using another piece of tubing for leverage and clamping or blocking the roll bar under or to something sturdy. Same thing for a twisted bar.

    You might also check the receivers to ensure they are not twisted or out of parallel. You'll need a couple short lengths of 1.5" tubing ~3' long to insert into the receivers to take your measurements on.
    Last edited by NAZ; 12-28-2018 at 10:30 AM.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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    Interesting topic. I have a 33' Hot Rod with the single roll bar side to side. I have HEARD that the roll bars are more cosmetic and won't offer much protection in an actual roll over. True? I will be running the hard top most of the time and and am Considering not using the bar at all. Will this be a huge mistake???? Pls let me know your thoughts. I have Not made the mistake yet. Thx.

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    IMO that coat hanger we call a roll bar should not be expected to save your bacon in a real rollover. There is no bracing to prevent it from bending (folding up) and I don't know any sanctioning body that would accept it as legitimate rollover protection. Even if I wasn't racing my hot rod I would have custom built a sturdy roll bar in mine even for the street. But then I've been on my top twice now so I'm supposed to be smarter and more cautious than when I was a young lad.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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    NAZ, ah, flap wheels, thanks. Why didn't I think of that, I've got many different sizes of them.
    The ID of the receiver ends on my car were 1.4995", the one I ground the ID is now at 1.5075", will need to open it a little more..
    Both ends of the roll bar measure 1.5055". The ends do lay flat on the floor.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  8. #7

    Ol Skool

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    Even a poor roll bar is better than no roll bar. Flap wheel, chamfer, and debur the I.D. of the chassis tubes. Cut your roof so the roll bar is high enough to be effective. This also means you don't have to put it in as far on the crooked tubes. Put liberal amounts of tape around upper corners. Apply never seize and a 4lb dead blow sledge hammer. Try to repeat as few times as possible. When done, remove tape and install padding. Or get out the welder and change the entire structure. Having been upside down in Jeeps I can appreciate a full cage...

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    I went with my own roll cage built inside cab, for driver and passenger safety, and will be adding side tube. All made out of 15/8 120 dom.
    Did not feel safe without cage, the bar that comes in kit IMO will give very little safety. But i think it all comes down to HP and how you or others will be driving the car, and how you feel about body parts!
    I am in upper HP and like to go fast in the corners.
    Last edited by 1932; 12-29-2018 at 01:46 PM.

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    I struggled with the Roll Bar. Instead of reaming the mounted posts I sanded down the external legs of the roll bar. One thing about the Roll Bar that bothered me is that while offering little protection, it also offered a certain catastrophe in a minor accident if contacting a bare head.. I think the thing that won me over was the U-Tube of the Cobra with the single driver's side roll bar that took an incredible tumble and wound up holding the wreckage off the driver's head. As we considered the Roll Bar, there were a couple of obvious things that we thought of. First was padding. I am very proud of the padding solution my upholsterer came up with. Second, I did not want the Simpson belts, and went with 3 point Retractible's. I needed to anchor them to something and the Roll Bar was the obvious answer. Since the shoulder mounting point was a critical juncture, we pinned the bars once mounted.

    Seq-17c5.jpgSeq-17c6.jpgSeq-17c8.jpgSeq-17g1 copy.jpgSeq-17g7.jpgSeq-17h2.jpgSeq-17i1.jpgSeq-17i3.jpgSeq-17j4.jpgSeq-17k3.jpg

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    I plan on having mine covered just like yours WRP.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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  14. #11
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    I think padding is essential

  15. #12
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    If there is any way to hit your head on it, even just a remote possibility, it is absolutely essential. I've hit my head on enough stuff to vouch for that.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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    Couple of more interior shots


    IMG_0632.jpgIMG_0642.jpgIMG_0635.jpgIMG_0641.jpg

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Beautiful interior.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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  19. #15

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    Well,,,, I was kind of hoping everybody would say,,, yeah, leave it off. But it seems that it would be a mistake,,, so, I won't make the mistake. I do like the idea of padding it with upholstery. I have a sailboat and did all my canvas work with a my Sailrite sewing machine so,,,,, looks like I will have a new project. I also like the upholstered waterfall also but I think that may be beyond my skill level. You guys do good work. Thx

  20. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrp View Post
    I struggled with the Roll Bar. Instead of reaming the mounted posts I sanded down the external legs of the roll bar.
    Trying to open up the ID down low in the posts isn't the easiest thing to do so I did the same as you using some flap discs on my air tool. Almost done.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  21. #17
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    I was also having trouble fitting the roll bar. I was able to use a brake cylinder hone on a cordless drill to increase the ID of the bars. After honing the tubes they were much easier to install.

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  23. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by vette57 View Post
    I was also having trouble fitting the roll bar. I was able to use a brake cylinder hone on a cordless drill to increase the ID of the bars. After honing the tubes they were much easier to install.
    Thanks for the info. I think I'll do that too.
    I can now slide either end into either post separately but when I try to do both they get about 1/2 way in and start to bind.
    I'm sure I can do erlihemi 4lb dead blow method to get it in and out but I'd like it to removable without having to beat the crap out of it.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Brake hone -- that's a good idea.
    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer
    33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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  26. #20

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    After honing the receiver tubes for way too long and then taking the flap wheel to the roll bar I still couldn't get the bar to go in more than 1/2 way.
    I then used a digital angle tool and found the receiver tubes aren't parallel, they are almost 2 off.
    I then used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel at a 30 angle to reduce the OD of the roll bar ends to 1.450" then the flap wheel to smooth it out. I can now get the roll bar all the way into the receiver tubes with minimal tapping.

    DSCN2627.JPG
    Last edited by JimLev; 01-12-2019 at 10:55 AM. Reason: added pic and OD measurement
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

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  28. #21
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    talking about the roll bar, can anyone make sense of the instructions for the installation of the pins, if so let me hear from you, thanks

  29. #22
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    After sanding and polishing mine goes in and out ok with a dead blow you just have to go evenly, not the greatest roll bar but better than none at all

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