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Thread: Educate me about electric water pump on SBF 302

  1. #1
    Member CNIdog's Avatar
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    Question Educate me about electric water pump on SBF 302

    Just wondering what experience you may have had on electric water pumps. I am discarding the '87 HO stock front brackets and going with electric accessories for water pump now and maybe eventually a vacuum pump for brake booster and electric power steering. I just got a new one-wire 100 amp alternator. Stock engine with Fi-Tech efi conversion.

    What coolant pumps have worked for you and what do I need to know? 35 gpm enough or 50 gpm? Will the stock pump backing plate on the timing cover work? How does heater inlet work?

    Cheers!

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I wouldn't generally recommend an electric water pump for a street car unless there was some specific reason for it. These things are expensive. That said, I can give you some general info on electric water pumps but not specific to the 302.

    Electrically driven water pumps come in a variety of configurations but can generally be placed into two types: electrically driven OEM style and purpose built coupled (motor directly coupled to the impeller) pumps. Electric water pumps have some advantages but these may not apply to a garden variety street car. First they are more efficient and take less HP to drive at higher RPMs. They also may provide better cooling at slow speeds such as an LA traffic jam because they run at a constant flow rate regardless of engine RPM. They can also be run with the engine off to cool the coolant -- this is especially effective if you have an electric fan running at the same time. And they can help solve packaging issues with tight spaces.

    I run a OEM style water pump driven with an electric motor on my race car. This car also sees occasional street duty. According to the manufacturer, my set-up is supposed to flow 28 GPM (I've never confirmed this) and works well in my 33HR keeping a 550 HP engine in the happy zone of 170 to 180 under most conditions. If I make several short spaced test launches under full power and with nitrous (that brings the HP up to 650 plus) the coolant temp will run up around 200-deg but comes back down in short order once back at cruise RPM. And that temp rise can be attributed. to the smallish radiator the 33HR has not the flow of the pump. I went with an electric powered pump on this car for two reasons -- packaging and the ability to cool the engine between rounds. Also, according the the pump manufacturer running the pump at this lower RPM is saving me ~12 HP at my RPM range of 5100 to 6100 RPM (5100 stall speed converter, 6100 shift point).

    So if you have some specific reason to run an electric pump the pumps now days are more reliable than years past so they are a viable option for the street. But their advantages are so narrow they just may not be cost effective in most street applications. And when the pump eventually fails as all mechanical things do, don't expect to find one at the local auto parts store.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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  4. #3
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    I'm planning on a Meziere because I want the control and to eliminate the draw on the engine. Wise? A good decision? Not sure but I can always switch back.

    I think that with a controller system there will be advantages and then an ability to circulate water to help cool down after track sessions.

    Also looking at the Davies Craig units. Between the two manufacturers there's a lot of good technical info. Best to read and decide what's best for your application.

    Listen to NAZ, wise info.

    Jim

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