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Thread: You can remove your TKO w/out removing your engine or trans. tunnel cover.

  1. #1
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    You can remove your TKO w/out removing your engine or trans. tunnel cover.

    Results may vary. I had to remove my transmission due to it developing a bad leak. Someone stated to me that Tremec Transmissions are 50/50 in that every other one shipped will leak. Both my good friend and I had bad leaks that required removal so my experience is worse than that.

    Fortunately for me the job ended up not being a huge deal. My roadster is finished and I dreaded having to work on it again. Last year I did the Head Gaskets on a nearly new Ford Racing 427 crate engine.

    Just for the record. You can remove your transmission from underneath the Roadster without removing your transmission tunnel cover.

    I highly recommend having a second set of hands but it can be done by yourself.

    Keep in mind that our builds differ and while this worked for me, it may not work for you. I have my shifter in the traditional location which allowed me to access all 6 bolt and remove the shifter assembly from under the roadster. I am not sure that you can do the same with a midshift. I also have a 3-link but I think it would work the same with IRS.

    This was a ton less work than removing the engine and transmission as a complete assembly. By myself it took less than 3 hours to do and that's because I'm slow and I clean and catalog everything as I go. Note: I spent more time in crating and shipping than I did removing it.

    1. Remove driveshaft, Transmission mount, Clutch slave, Starter and Shifter including Transmission Shifter.

    2. Don't forget to unplug your speed sensor and in my case, Neutral switch.

    3. Go buy the cheap transmission jack from Harbor Freight. This is key if you do not remove your transmission tunnel cover.

    4. Take your time.

    With the driveshaft removed I was able to slide the transmission back quite a bit but not far enough for the input shaft to clear the bellhousing. To get the transmission out you need to unbolt the bellhousing and lower it and your transmission front down at the same time until you can get the bellhousing out. Once you have the bellhousing out you can raise the transmission up again, move it all the way forward to clear the frame and then lower it down and out.

    Piece of cake as they say. Hopefully the reverse works out the same.

    Here is my trans. on a Harbor Freight $78 transmission jack.
    IMG_7634.jpg

    Here it is crated and ready to ship to Liberty's Gears for some upgrades.
    IMG_7636.jpg
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

  2. #2
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting. Have often wondered how that might work out if needed.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  3. #3
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    This is information I hope I never need, but am glad to have nonetheless!!
    Jazzman

    MKIV #8745 "Flip Top" Roadster, Custom Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec TKO600, Custom Interior. Best of Show winner, Huntington Beach Cruise In 2018.

    1967 Ford Mustang Coupe build thread updated 12/04/2019

    Roadster Frame Dolly Plan

  4. #4
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    How do you support the engine? Is it pretty much self balancing in the two motor mounts?

    And did you do it on a lift, or on jack stands, or ..?
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  5. #5
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    The side pipes with long tube headers pretty much keep everything level but I do have a jackstand under the oil pan to keep stress off the sidepipes while I wait for the transmission to get back. I did everything with the jackstands as in the photo. I would suggest getting a few inches higher to roll out the transmission on the trans. jack. It did not clear as is.






    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    How do you support the engine? Is it pretty much self balancing in the two motor mounts?

    And did you do it on a lift, or on jack stands, or ..?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

  6. #6
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Thanks Marcel.

    'Nother question. Was the trans leak at the input shaft? Do you think input shaft alignment could be a contributing factor? Bell housing mis alignment? Just curious. Glad it's going as good as it can at this point. All the best.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  7. #7
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Not 100% sure where it’s leaking from. I dialed in the belhousing and it was within spec. I originally had a leak at the input shaft bearing carrier and re sealed it. There was hardly any sealant from the factory there. I suspect the current leak is at the lower bearing carrier “plug”. Either way I am having Liberty’s go through everything.

    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Thanks Marcel.

    'Nother question. Was the trans leak at the input shaft? Do you think input shaft alignment could be a contributing factor? Bell housing mis alignment? Just curious. Glad it's going as good as it can at this point. All the best.
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

  8. #8
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Glad to know it can be done. I had a leak at the tail shaft joint. I split the case while the front case was still bolted it. You can slide the tail shaft back about 8 inches.... enough to reseal it. Biggest concert, don't let the counter shaft race come out of the case while working.

    Same concern for you. Don't let the counter shaft race come out. Nothing holding it in except the shaft when assembled. There are shims behind the race that you don't want to lose.
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 12-30-2018 at 03:27 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  9. #9
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    I did it without a trans. jack......next time I'll get one..!

  10. #10
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe390 View Post
    I did it without a trans. jack......next time I'll get one..!
    Next time? That's planning ahead.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  11. #11

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    I wanted to say thank you for posting this. I had to remove my TKO 500 and it was fairly easy following your instructions.

  12. #12
    Member JETAV8R's Avatar
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    Bought one of these transmission jacks from Harbor Freight today. Tremec sent me a new replacement T5 transmission a couple of weeks ago. I had been starring at it and had all but decided I was going to have to pull the engine to get it all mated back together. Two hours later and it was all bolted back up. I sure am glad I didn't pull the engine.
    MKIV Roadster #9414, Complete Kit Delivered 9/8/2018, First Start 11/9/2018, First Go Cart 11/10/2018, Ford 306 Hand Built, E303 Cam, Blueprint Engine Heads, Edelbrock Performer Manifold, Edelbrock AVS2 Carb, Roller Rockers, Tremec T5, 3.55 Moser 3 Link, 17" Halibrand Replicas, Nitto 555 G2's, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Heated Seats, Russ Thompson Turn Signal

  13. #13
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    Last winter I noticed my TKO was leaking where the output shaft housing bolts to the trans. I understood that it would be a fix that might call for an engine pull to remove the trans. Sure didn't want to have to do that. After thinking it over and doing a lot of research, I decided pulling it would be a last resort and I would try to think outside the box. If worse came to worse I would have plenty of time to fix it "right" and still have the car ready for the driving season. Best fix by far and one that's still working to this day is JB Weld applied to the outside of the trans and shaft housing where they meet. I had to first drain the trans to keep the seal dry while it sets up. It took days for it to stop leaking after draining the trans because the fluid has no way to drain from the tail shaft area. Just had to wait for it to leak out. No problem during Ohio winters. After the temperatures started to warm a little I took a file to the area that was leaking to try to have a nice flat area to apply the sealer to making sure to leave it scuffed enough for the adhesive to get a good bite. The original JB Weld has extreme adhesive ratings and withstands a lot of pressure so that was the product of choice. It also is the same color of the trans making it difficult to see the fix. After application you can trim it down with files or sandpaper to make it look decent. Also I put thread seal on the two lower bolts in the tail shaft housing just in case the fluid leak was coming from there. My trans fluid was everywhere but It wasn't coming from the bolts as it leaked after the thread seal. After the JB Weld I've enjoyed an entire season with the car and not a drop has leaked. If it ever has to be removed from the trans a simple grinder can remove it. Not exactly a text book repair but it worked.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  14. #14
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Yep, JB Weld is great stuff. I use it on cars and gun sights. Not that it is the same but I also like UltraGrey RTV. I once had leakage from the intake to block wall joint. 3 cycles of brake cleaner and compressed air drying, and I spread it over the joint. Tried as best I could to squish it into the joint. Let it sit 24 hours. Fixed that leak 100%. Another 'not a textbook repair' that worked fine.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  15. #15
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Yep, JB Weld is great stuff. I use it on cars and gun sights. Not that it is the same but I also like UltraGrey RTV. I once had leakage from the intake to block wall joint. 3 cycles of brake cleaner and compressed air drying, and I spread it over the joint. Tried as best I could to squish it into the joint. Let it sit 24 hours. Fixed that leak 100%. Another 'not a textbook repair' that worked fine.
    Just curious, have used it for a number of things with excellent results. Last week to fix my mail box's alloy bracket that my across the street neighbor backed into ripping it in half & the mailbox off the upright. Have two lever guns, an M4 & a M1911ACP & was wondering how you used it on the gun sights.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 12-04-2019 at 01:13 PM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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