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Thread: please critique my (already started) bodywork stages

  1. #1
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    please critique my (already started) bodywork stages

    I'm thinking perhaps I should have asked this before starting, but with the plethora of "bodywork" threads on here, I kinda figured I knew what steps to do and when. Or so I thought.

    That said.. I'm well under way in the total In-Garage-DIY-body-and-paint of my car.

    What I've done so far.
    - Fit and gaped everything. Fit and filered drivers door.
    - blocked whole car with 80 grit.
    - Rage Gold in all seams and various uneven places around both doors.
    - 80 grit to decent feather of all rage spots.

    Now.. I've just stared to block the whole car again but with 150grit.
    Following which I was going to go around and fill all pin holes and small imperfections with Metal Glaze.
    After which, I had planned to spray on 2 gallons of FFG2.

    As I'm blocking with the 150, I see a decent number of 80 grit scratches that seem pretty deep. I hope the 80 wasn't a mistake on my part. The 150 is taking most of the scratch out, but a fair few still remain.

    Keep in mind, I'm brand new to this level of body work, only done small panel repairs in the past.
    My only current timeline is that I want to be sure and get paint sprayed well before the heat of South Texas comes on strong.
    I'm pretty sure I have enough time, despite my newb status.
    I also don't really mind doing a few extra steps along the way, so long as it means an easier time of the final color spray.

    I was wondering.. should I instead finish with my 150 block stage and metal glaze, and then spray 1 gallon of FF.
    Block to 220
    Then spray the 2nd gallon of FF and block to 320

    After the FF stage and blocking, I plan to spray a 2k primer, and block to 400 wet. then 500 wet.

    Next, a medium dark gray sealer, blocked to 600 wet.

    The main body color is a BMW gray (472). It's a medium dark metallic color.
    Black stripes.

    cheers guys.

    P.S. Please excuse the onslaught of bodywork threads I've started recently.. I'll stick to this one from now on.

    Now.. it's time to go watch off the layer of red-dust and crack a few new-years-eve beers!!
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  2. #2
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    Hi If it was me since you already started with 80 next is would be swipe any spots that need fill then knock them down with 80 then 120 then 240 the trick is knowing when to change paper finish everything with 240 or 320 block and a Hutchins DA Then bomb it with primer. If you’d like pm me and talking through it might be easier
    Rob
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

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  4. #3


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Slick Sand builds more per coat than Featherfill and will do a better job of burying sanding scratches.

    Jeff

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    One tip from a guy that’s done a few cars use a disposable rag under your hand when you run your hand over your body work to check it it will show you where you have problems as you can feel it very easily. Get close with 80 then skim coat and go to 120 then start feeling your work for corrections. Do one small then go on to another don’t try to do all the car at once as it won’t work well.
    Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glennís 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.

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    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    I'm pretty pleased with the rage spots at the moment. I can't detect any waves or low/high spots in it. Which is why I'm on to 150 grit and a few passes with guide coat. Though, the guide coat doesn't seem to show too well on the scuffed red gel coat.

    I already bought 2 gals of FFG2, so I'm kinda stuck with using it now. Plus, I read somewhere that FF was a bit easier to spray from a smaller gun tip. Mine only has a 1.7 and a 1.3 to choose from. Any thoughts on doing it in 2 stages? or all at once?

    Also.. I've been using a paper towel to help find waves in the body work. Seems to help.
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

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    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Anybody with some thoughts on my proposed sanding stages? Especially the part about doing the 2 gallons of FF in 2 stages instead of one? If that's even necessary.
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

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  9. #7
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidd View Post
    Anybody with some thoughts on my proposed sanding stages? Especially the part about doing the 2 gallons of FF in 2 stages instead of one? If that's even necessary.
    When it comes to bodywork, less is more. Don't just spray on 2 gallons because you have them, you will just make more work for yourself. and the more layers of "stuff" just increases the risk of chipping or failure from too much product on the surface. I get everything as smooth as possible with filler before shooting any primer.

    If you're happy with the filler work, you can move on to your poly primer, but I would still only shoot two coats. Block it with 180 and see how it looks. If it shows a lot of low spots then shoot a couple more and reblock. If the low spots are deep and the sandpaper isn't even scratching in hte middle of the low spot then you might need to use more filler first before repriming.

    Don't hose on the primer trying to cheat out of doing more filler work. Once you get it smooth with no low spots with 180, then you can move up in grits while using your guide coat. You may not even need the 2K, but if you want to use it, I'd sand to at least 180, maybe even 320. The 2K will shrink and show 80 grit sand scratches down the road.

    Oh and the grey sealer should be shot like your first coat of base coat, no sanding. The sealer is just that, it seals up your filler and primer work and gives the base coat a nice consistent surface to cling to and prevent bleed through of the underlying bodywork and primer.

    Hope that helps.
    Arrowhead's '33 Hot Rod Build Site:
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    Agreed 2 gallons of primer is a bit excessive. If it was me doing it and I do have 30 years of body shop experience I would get everything finished in 240 then prime 2 good coats. If your using grey primer use a dusting black guide coat usually rattle can black on top of the primer. Then block it your guide coat shows all the highs and lows. Finish off your primer in 400 or 600 blocking it down then itís ready for paint . All primer and gel coats shrink up over time so I would finish everything in 240 or better yet 320 trying to fill 180 scratches with primer is not the best idea.
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

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    This is a picture of a guide coat on top of primer I got around to fixing my wife’s 2015 Malibu last month before I started my 35 build. D50731FC-DFCD-4AB2-93C0-227804886901.jpeg
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  13. #10
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Thanks guys... good stuff. I guess it seems I'm more or less on the right track. I have a container of that powder guide-coat that I've been using.
    After a day of 150 and 180 grit, I still have a couple of low spots that I need to fill with Rage. But, I'm feeling pretty good about most of it. One up side to the shiny red gel-coat, it's a good guide coat.
    I based the need for 2 gallons of feather fill on various threads I read in here and on the other forum. Seemed like it was the standard amount that gets thrown on. I've never used it before, so I just went with the crowd.
    so.. I guess I'll start by trying to get 2, perhaps 3 coats of the FF on the car after this current blocking stage, and see how level it blocks out too. I think I'll target 220 grit.
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

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    Senior Member Taz Rules's Avatar
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    I've done a number of show cars as well as other high end paint in a custom shop. I don't have as many years as some of the other guys here, but I've been told I'm very good at my job, and clients continue to ask for me even though I left the shop.

    There are a number of ways to skin a cat, and what you are doing seems to be following the basic system, but just for comparison, here is my process...

    1. All bodywork
    a. Degrease/clean everything. Now get the high spots sanded out of your substrate using 100 grit on a Durablock or other long sanding block. Long, even strokes, and don't forget to crosshatch your sanding pattern.
    b. fill the low spots with plenty of body filler (rage is a good one, quality wise, but I find it a bit runny. I prefer Evercoat. That's just preference, though)
    c. Blocksand using a durablock and 100 grit. CROSS HATCH!
    d. guide coat and blocksand using 150. Cross hatch! Make sure filler edges are feathered. If they are not feathered, then your substrate is low, and needs to be filled again.
    e. fill pinholes in filler and fiberglass using a good 2k putty. Use putty sparingly, it sands like bubble gum. I apply it with a razor blade as a spreader, just to give an idea of how thin I put it on.
    f. Blocksand putty spots with 150 JUST TO BRING IT DOWN TO LEVEL. Do not oversand.
    g. Block or DA your entire car with 180. If blocking, long, even, crosshatched strokes. If DA, go light. Your shaping is done with the coarser grits, specifically the 100. The 180 is only to eliminate scratch (which should be light after the 150... the 150 is only to eliminate the 100 scratch and feather edges) and to provide tooth for the primer to bite onto.

    2. Spray filler (optional) (Degrease again... your fingerprints/sweat from your brow/forearms/anything that touched your surface will inhibit proper adhesion)
    a. If you are doing an epoxy primer, now is the time. THIN coat. Like, almost translucent thin. This is just to give the spray filler a better surface to adhere to, as epoxy is really nice and sticky. Don't let it go past the window where you need to sand... epoxy is terrible to sand, so if you can, get the filler ready to spray within the window -- the proper amount of time that allows cure but not too much that it needs to be sanded to reopen the coat. The TDS for the epoxy will give you the appropriate time windows. Follow the directions.
    b. within the appropriate window for the epoxy (or if no epoxy, once the filler has fully cured and been blocked to your satisfaction to 180 grit) shoot your spray filler. I prefer Slick Sand shot through a 3.0 tip, but since you have the Feather Fill, go ahead. I'm not familiar with the product, but the TDS on the filler will have the suggested nozzle size and mil thickness.
    c. block your Featherfill with a durablock and long even, crosshatched strokes. Use guide coat. I knock down my spray filler with 220 grit. I wouldn't use anything coarser than 180, ever. Block till all low spots are down. If you bust through the Featherfill to the substrate, then your bodywork had high spots. You need to knock those down and re-spray. If you have a persistent low spot, you need to re-fill or re-featherfill those spots and block them down. If you did your bodywork correctly and were patient and didn't rush, then this step should not be necessary. Just block til the guide coat is gone.If you use 180, follow with 220 or 240 block. All dry. Guide coat between each grit. Once the guide coat is gone, you are at that scratch.

    3. High build primer.
    a. Don't forget to blow everything off and wipe down with a mild degreaser. Your body oil will still give you fish eyes/spots/paint problems.
    b. Shoot your high-build primer over your featherfill. There is a misconception that spray fillers are primers. They are not. They are fillers, applied very thin. They are not designed to have paint applied directly to them. You need a primer. I recommend a high-build, though a primer-sealer will work.
    c. If high build primer, guide coat and block with 240. crosshatch. I can't stress that enough. Crosshatch.
    (If primer sealer, there is no point in blocking as you won't have enough build to level anything out. At that point you are just prepping for color.)
    d. guide coat and DA with 320 (all of this is dry sanding, btw)
    e. guide coat and DA with 400
    f. guide coat and DA with 600
    g. If you are shooting a metallic (especially silver) or a pearl or mica, guide coat and DA with 800

    4. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN
    a. Degreaser and a milder Final wipe.
    b. masking
    c. wipe your masking paper/plastic with your final wash.
    d. blow and tack (needless to say, you blew out and wet down your spray booth... right? RIGHT?)
    e. tape billowing plastic and masking material down, to the floor, to itself, whatever. The last thing you want is your paint gun blowing your plastic into your fresh paint. Masking should be tight.

    5. Paint
    a. suit up and mix your color,
    b. use a spray card to ensure coverage
    c. don't forget to drop-coat your last coat of metallic or pearl
    d. clearcoat and pray

    remember, its better to run your clearcoat than to go to thin and have dry spray. Positive Flow Indicators (aka runs) can be fixed, sanded, polished. Dry spray can not be fixed easily.
    That said, don't think that if 2 coats of clear are good, 5 are better. Not true. Too many clear coats will cause "pop" where one coat skins over, but the paint below is still gassing off, creating tiny bubbles. This is a sign that you have overdone your clear, and is difficult to fix, and will likely require re-spraying the entire panel including the color.

    Now, and only now, once your paint has been at least 24 hours (more depending on conditions in your booth and the type of clear coat) may you wet-sand.
    a. I start with 1000 grit on dirt nibs ONLY.
    b. then 1500 grit wet on the entire surface. I use 3M Trizact on a DA with a 1/8" throw designed specifically for finish work. Or you can wetsand using traditional paper... short, even strokes. Don't over sand and be careful near edges.
    c. I then use 3000 Trizact on my DA (wet) , followed by 5000 Trizact (wet)
    d. Now I polish using 3M White, then Gray, then Blue. Remember to use the color coded polishing pads...dont use a white pad with gray polish. I only do blue on show cars and very dark colors.

    Voila.

    Like I said, there are lots of ways to do it. This was just my way. It's labour intensive, but I've had good results.

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  16. #12
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Wow.. thanks Taz.. Awesome stuff. Looks like I more-or-less had about the same plan. Good to know I was pretty much on track.
    I really appreciate the info.
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  17. #13
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    looks like time spent on the filler was well worth it.
    I got a whole bunch of FeatheFill on today. 4 good coats. Boy, that stuff is a PITA due to how fast it kicks. I only managed a quart between gun cleanings. OH well.
    In the end, I'm really pleased how it went down and how it turned out. Using my shop lights, I can't find any obvious waves or bad spots in the body. I'm pretty happy with what I've pulled off.. for a 1st timer.
    Even the orange-peal was non existent. All those 80 scratches I thought might be a problem... meh! Nada.. they are gone. I do have a few pin-holes to fill, but noting too crazy.







    Question... was my gun pressure too high? I was a bit surprised at the amount of over-spray. I thought I had the gun dialed in pretty fair (for a newb) but, there was sure a lot of the overspray on the paper.
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

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    Overspray is normal. That stuff is heavy and the less airflow you have in the booth, the more on the floor. The fact that it went on smooth without (dry spray) across the panels means you had your gun adjusted well. What are you using for exhaust fans? ..da Bat
    Last edited by j.miller; 01-06-2019 at 10:08 AM.

  19. #15
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Thanks Bat... I couldn't find any obvious dry spray (not that I'm an expert in what to look for), and only 1 spot with a bit of orange peel.

    I was wearing a proper face mask with proper filter for paints. For my ventilation, I have a modified HVAC blower fan in a DIY box. That sucker moves a crap ton of air. But, for this stage, I only had it just pulling air out of the garage. So, it wasn't the most efficient use of it. I really didn't notice the haze much until the very end of the small gun pot. When it comes time to spray color and clear, I plan to build a sealed tent (10x20) with this blower and a good HVAC filter moving the air through the tent. I'm pretty confident it'll work well. (fingers crossed)

    I'm planning to hit the FF with 220 grit next, then 320 dry. Lots of guide coat.
    Looking at the finish so far, I'm quit pleased with the lines. I'm optimistic that there will not be a lot of lows and highs.. but.. only blocking will reveal that.
    With about 4 coats of FF, I think I have plenty of material to work with.

    Question.. how will I know what my next stage should be?
    Do I "need" a 2k urethane layer? How will I know if I do? Or, can I go right to 400 & 500 wet on the feather fill if it's straight enough?
    Then, put down the sealer, and wet-sand it to 600.

    Or.. will I be better served with a good 2k primer/sealer tinted darker for my base coat color? Work this 2k with 400,500,600 and have that be my layer before base coat?
    This sounds easier and more forgiving.. but.. newb!
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  20. #16
    Senior Member Taz Rules's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidd View Post
    With about 4 coats of FF, I think I have plenty of material to work with.

    Question.. how will I know what my next stage should be?
    Do I "need" a 2k urethane layer? How will I know if I do? Or, can I go right to 400 & 500 wet on the feather fill if it's straight enough?
    Then, put down the sealer, and wet-sand it to 600.

    Or.. will I be better served with a good 2k primer/sealer tinted darker for my base coat color? Work this 2k with 400,500,600 and have that be my layer before base coat?
    This sounds easier and more forgiving.. but.. newb!
    4 coats should be plenty to level it out.

    You need something over the Featherfill. Its a filler, not a primer. Putting paint diectly on it is the same as shooting directly over Rage filler... color will absorb and mottle.

    I would recommend a high build primer but a sealer will do.

    I haven't tried the sealer over spray filler directly, so I don't know how fine to sand. I just do 180 and high build. When I have used sealer its only been on bust throughs. (They happen). The TDS on the sealer will tell you the ideal grit for sanding the substrate. Too fine a grit means not enough tooth for the sealer to get a mechanical bond, therefore poor adhesion and possible bubbling or peeling of subsequent layers. others can probably help on that more than I can. As I said, I'm more comfortable with the high build 2k primer. But neither solution is "wrong" or "right"

    Sounds like you have a pretty good grasp on things. Your booth design will work, and seems like a solid design. I look forward to seeing your results

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    Block your FF with 150 or 180, 3 coats of 2K Urethane (I like PPGs Shop Line) , Block with 320 dry, wet sand 500gr, non-sanding sealer, base.....etc....another thing to think about (critical) is a heat source. any time you spray something "catalyzed (in our industry) you want to maintain a minimum of 70* during and for 3-4 hours post spray. If you can keep the temp up longer....more better. There is a big diff between "Dry" and "Cured" We want both. Catalyzed products do not like to have their activation cycle interrupted and can take weeks to finish a cycle instead of a few hours...da Bat

  22. #18
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Once again thanks guys.
    Guess I have some marching orders.
    As for heat, I can manage that. My garage has both AC and heat. Once all the base and color is on, how long at what temp would be ideal to leave it bake at? The max I can set my garage at is 30C (85F).

  23. #19
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Lol... poor naive newb!! Thinking I'd easily be able to cut down the FF with 220 grit. haha... (facepalm)
    Quickly switched to 150 and 180. Much better at making dust. Keyripes!! I thought the red-dust was bad!
    And.. DAMN YOU LONG BOARD AND GUIDE COAT!! for Showing me lows and highs that sure weren't their before!!
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

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    As stated above Slick Sand does a great job. It will fill 80 grit scratches with ease and is easy to sand afterward. This is my normal go to poly high build primer for our resto and high end jobs at my shop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skidd View Post
    Once again thanks guys.
    Guess I have some marching orders.
    As for heat, I can manage that. My garage has both AC and heat. Once all the base and color is on, how long at what temp would be ideal to leave it bake at? The max I can set my garage at is 30C (85F).
    overnight @ 70-75....8hrs @ 85

  26. #22
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Thanks Bat.

    Also.. just wanted to add.. I've been keeping a timelapse video record of every moment spent working on my cobra. From the day Stewart dropped it off, all the way to the present body work.
    It's a bit of a "fudge" but if I calculate the timelaps spent during the "bodywork" phase, I have just over 130 hours spent so far to get to the stage of 1/2 sanded after feather fill.
    Mind you, this includes things like modifying the body buck, building a make-shift-dust-tent, drinking beer, neighbors coming to see what all the dust is from... etc.. but.. dang!
    To think you pros can get so much farther along, in such a shorter time.. mind-blowing!
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  27. #23
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    I'm no pro. I have painted precisely one car. My Cobra.

    Here is a suggestion for when you shoot color. Your panels should be in the orientation that they will be when on the car. Especially with metallic. The metallic particles will lay differently and you could have a hood / body mismatch with the hood and trunk hanging.

    Doing your own body and paint is a seriously rewarding endeavor. It gave me some serious appreciation for guys that do this professionally.

  28. #24
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Thanks.. Yeah.. I intend to orient the hood and trunk flat like they were on the car. I'm going to copy .. (I think it was Kleiner) hood and trunk flip-flop tables.
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

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    Forget the "Flip-Flop" tables. Finish sand and shoot the bottom of the hood and deck a few days before you are ready to do the whole thing. Turn them over when dry and finish sand the tops. Mask off the bottoms and shoot the tops with the rest of the car. Two things. A. It will give you a chance to shoot a little paint. 2. You don't need to be fiddling with wet paint in the middle of a paint job . Save the circus stunt fly-bys for Capt. O......He's been busted and thrown in the brigg for that move....something to do with "Penny Benjamin"....da Bat

  30. #26
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    and D. I don't really know how to do that.

    Honestly... painting it all at once is something I can wrap my brain around. Though, I need to find enough room for this trapeze act in my make-shift paint booth.
    Stripes on tops -> base color all surfaces -> clear all surfaces. makes sense.

    I don't really quite understand how to paint and clear one side, let it dry, and paint the other side and get it to "blend" correctly.
    I don't know how much paint it'll take to do just the bottom of the hood and trunk. (I'm guessing all I have to do is ask)
    I don't get where and how to mask the painted bottom side when time to spray the top.
    How do you not end up with some sort of "line" where the tape mask is? Or is that solved with the 1500 grit wet-sand stage?
    what do you do about the edges? Painted with the bottom? or the Top?

    Though, I like the idea of getting a bit of practice shooting color and clear on an "underside" before going for the big shoot.
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  31. #27


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    Save the circus stunt fly-bys for Capt. O......He's been busted and thrown in the brigg for that move....something to do with "Penny Benjamin"....da Bat
    Leave Penny out of this...lessen' you want me to start up with the Wendy Peffercorn, Lacey Underall talk...'cause you know that'll end with a story about the time we picked up that dirty tranny in a parking lot...do you really want to go there?...again?

    Capt. O

  32. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by skidd View Post
    and D. I don't really know how to do that.

    Honestly... painting it all at once is something I can wrap my brain around. Though, I need to find enough room for this trapeze act in my make-shift paint booth.
    Stripes on tops -> base color all surfaces -> clear all surfaces. makes sense.

    I don't really quite understand how to paint and clear one side, let it dry, and paint the other side and get it to "blend" correctly.
    I don't know how much paint it'll take to do just the bottom of the hood and trunk. (I'm guessing all I have to do is ask)
    I don't get where and how to mask the painted bottom side when time to spray the top.
    How do you not end up with some sort of "line" where the tape mask is? Or is that solved with the 1500 grit wet-sand stage?
    what do you do about the edges? Painted with the bottom? or the Top?

    Though, I like the idea of getting a bit of practice shooting color and clear on an "underside" before going for the big shoot.
    YOU'RE KILLIN ME SMALLS !!! 951-676-0191 ASK FOR DA BAT AND I'LL TELL YA HOW TO DO IT !!!...….let me get my scale out....on this side we put 7. A whisper of an edge on the underside of a hood...….F. We build something we don't have room for and then run the risk of sticking our fingers in wet paint 5-6 times......BRILLIANT !!!!…...DON'T MAKE ME COME OVER THERE MISTER !!!...DA bAT

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  34. #29

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    Oh! and getting something to "BLEND CORRECTLY" is like 684 down on the list of crap you need to worry about when you're painting.....Now I'm in a snit....swear to god it's like playng cards with my brothers kids !...da bat

  35. #30


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j.miller View Post
    ....Now I'm in a snit....swear to god it's like playng cards with my brothers kids !...da bat
    I bet you're like my Uncle Jim...he taught my sisters and me how to play poker...well he didn't really teach us to play, mostly just how to place bets, and only taught us enough so that he could beat us then when he did HE KEPT ALL OF OUR PENNIES

    O

  36. #31
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    I think my ears are still bleeding from that much deserved verbal lashing I just got from Bat.
    Thanks Miller.. really appreciate the help (aka setting me straight) on what I'm doing and how I'm doing it .
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  37. #32
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Question.
    Taking into account, the airflow ,which end of my makeshift spray booth do I start at? The end with the exhaust fan? Or the end with the intake filters? Or doesn't even really matter? And which ever end I start at, should I begin with panels? Or the main body?.. or.. in the words of Mr.Miller... stop over thinking it!!

  38. #33


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    If you're moving plenty of air I don't think it really matters which end...maybe Professor da' bat will have better input. I generally spray in the same order (with no significant logic to it) and I'm pretty sure that Jeff M. does also. My order goes scoop, doors, hood trunk lid, main body---rinse and repeat.

    Jeff

  39. #34

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    As for the booth....Start spraying closest to the intake and work your way toward the exhaust. Any overspray landing on the car on it's way out gets melted in. As for spraying, I start with the body on the intake end and finish with the loose parts on the exhaust end (that's just how I like it). Play with your set-up to see what kind of room you have to move around and paint accordingly...da Bat

  40. #35
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.
    Right now I'm 220 sanding the feather fill. Keyripes! What a difference! Sanding to achieve smoothness is so much easier than sanding to make shape! It's almost turned sanding fun!

  41. #36

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    If you have already sanded the FF with 150-180gr you go right to 2K urethane then sand the 2K with 320 then 500-600 , seal, paint.....220? Who does that !...da Bat

  42. #37
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    who does that? Newbs like me over worried about leaving grit scratches in the surface and NOT covering them with the next "layer" of stuff.
    I thought the 2k required a 220 surface? Or to be specific, I think it said 180-240. Which my neurons translated to "don't leave any of those 150s on the body".
    Too late now though, I'm half way done with the 220.. no point in stopping.
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  43. #38

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    OH ! OKAY ! everyone just step back.....nothin ta see here......No, NO, seriously !!! He read the directions...…..and this concludes your daily ration of "Bat Crap"......da Crap

  44. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by skidd View Post
    who does that? Newbs like me over worried about leaving grit scratches in the surface and NOT covering them with the next "layer" of stuff.
    I thought the 2k required a 220 surface? Or to be specific, I think it said 180-240. Which my neurons translated to "don't leave any of those 150s on the body".
    Too late now though, I'm half way done with the 220.. no point in stopping.



    Ok, One more thing and I'll leave you alone. I'm glad you are worried about those "scratches" I wish I could. But, NO! I have to know all the real things you should be worried about. Please, continue on in your blissful state of grace and enjoy yourself.....cause it won't last.....you wake up 45years later saying "Why is the rum always gone?"……...Nevermind!

  45. #40
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    What can I say... Anything worth doing, is worth over-doing!!
    Nothing drives me more "da-batty" then doing something, short-changing a step, only to have to go back and re-do it later!!
    But, if I "over" build it to start with.. that won't? shouldn't? Might Not? happen...
    er.. hang on a 'tic.... you mean there's more "real" things I SHOULD be worried about!!!!
    Worse than running out of rum?
    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

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